/ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL 


IN 

1828  and  1829. 


BY  REV.  R.  WALSH,  LL.D.  M.R.I.A. 

AUTHOR  OF  “A  JOURNEY  FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE,’’  &C.  &C.  &C. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.  I. 


BOSTON: 

RICHARDSON,  LORD  & HOLBROOK,  WILLIAM  HYDE,  CROCKER  & BREWS” 
TER,  AND  CARTER,  HENDEE  & BABCOCK  ) NEW  YORK,  G.  & C.  & H. 
CARVILL,  AND  II.  C.  SLEIGHTJ  PHILADELPHIA,  CAREY  & HART, 


1831 


BOSTON 


PRESS WATER  STREET. 


ADVERTISEME  NT. 


In  the  Summer  of  1828,  His  Majesty’s  Government 
were  of  opinion,  that  the  most  simple  and  obvious  mode  of 
allaying  the  existing  differences  between  Brazil  and  Por- 
tugal, and  the  most  likely  to  be  agreeable  to  the  Emperor, 
was  by  completing  the  marriage  between  his  daughter 
and  his  brother,  and  so  bringing  to  a conclusion  a project, 
which  had  originated  with  himself,  and  which  had  been, 
from  the  time  of  her  birth,  the  subject  of  his  contemplation 
and  the  wish  of  the  Brazilian  people.  The  legal  marriage 
had  been  already  performed  by  procuration — the  ecclesias- 
tical ceremony  alone  remained  ; and  by  accelerating  that, 
the  Portuguese  question  would  be  set  at  rest,  in  amalaga- 
mating  Dom  Miguel’s  rights  as  Dona  Maria’s  husband, 
with  hers  as  Queen  of  Portugal. 

To  this  end  His  Excellency  Viscount  Strangford  was 
appointed  Ambassador  Extraordinary  to  the  Court  of  Bra- 
zil, as  his  long  residence  there  in  a diplomatic  situation  on 
a former  occasion,  and  his  early  and  personal  knowlege  of 
the  Emperor,  would  be  likely  to  give  the  proposal,  through 
him,  more  weight  and  influence.  The  Emperor,  however, 
seemed  disinclined  to  complete  his  own  project ; and  it  was 
of  course  found  impossible  to  press  a point  of  family  ar- 
rangement, in  which  he,  as  father,  was  the  sole  judge. 

I accompanied  the  Embassy,  as  Chaplain  ; and  the  fol- 
lowing observations  were  noted  down  during  our  voyage 
and  residence  in  Brazil,  for  the  amusement  and  informa- 
tion of  a friend  in  England, 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016  with  funding  from 
Getty  Research  Institute 


https://archive.org/details/noticesofbrazili01wals_1 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I, 


CHAP.  I. 

Portsmouth. — Portuguese  Emigrants. — Galatea  Frigate — Mode  of  taking  in  Water. 
Experimental  Squadron. — Mother  Carey’s  Chickens. — Sadler’s  Balloon. — Lisbon 
Packet. — Whale  and  Thresher. — Exercise  at  Guns.— Brilliancy  of  the  Constellation 
of  Scofpio. — Modes  of  Punishment. — Fogbank  mistaken  for  Madeira. — Deserters, 
and  absurd  Corruption  of  foreign  Names. — Porto  Santo — Discovery,  and  Reason  of 
the  Name.— Extraordinary  Opinions  entertained  of  Madeira. — Founded  in  natural 
Causes. — Madeira. — Lights  on  Shore. — Uncertainty  of  its  Fate. — Portuguese 
Squadron  lying  before  it.  - - - - - page  13 

CHAP.  n. 

Land  at  Funchal. — Basaltic  Coast. — Streets. — Carriage  of  Madeira  Wine — Dress 
and  Appearance  of  Peasantry. — Beggars. — Markets. — Leathern  Bottles. — Grapes 
and  Wine. — Portuguese  Coopers. — Curious  Superstition  of  Bananas. — Citron.— 
Water, 'and  dangerous  Torrents. — Wooded  Mountain. — N.  S.  d’el  Monte — Liz- 
ards.— Volcanic  Soil. — Processions. — Captain  Canning. — Premature  and  sudden 
Death. — Idle  Rumors  of  the  Cause.  - - - - - 25 

CHAP.  III. 

Madeira  and  Porto  Santo,  the  Fortunate  Islands. — Discovery  in  modern  Times.— 
Alcaforedo’s  Account  of  Macham. — Reasons  for  and  against  its  Authenticity. — 
Wines  from  Cyprus  and  Sugar  Canes  from  Sicily,  introduced. — English  Resi- 
dents.— Former  Intolerance  of  Islanders. — Constitutional  Principles,  and  first  Press 
sent  from  England. — Fluctuation  of  Politics. — General  Valdez  assumes  the  Com- 
mand.— Military  Force. — Strange  Project  to  excite  the  People  in  favor  of  Dom 
Miguel. — Valdez  and  his  Friends  declare  themselves. — Ceremonies  and  Rejoic- 
ing. ----------38 


1* 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  IV. 

Portuguese  Frigate  arrives,  and  again  departs. — Insurrection  of  the  Peasants,  and  the 
Bishops  sent  from  the  Island. — Resolute  Determination  of  the  People. — Portu- 
guese Fleet  appears  off  the  Island. — Cruises  without  attempting  to  land. — Packet 
arrives  with  Constitutional  Officers. — Portuguese  Fleet  disappears. — Returns  sud- 
denly, and  lands  at  Machico. — Defence  of  the  Islanders. — Explosion  of  the  Military 
Chest. — General  Valdez  harangues  the  Soldiers. — Funchal  surrenders. — Consti- 
tutionalists take  refuge  on  Board  the  Alligator. — Transferred  to  a Merchantman, 
and  sail  for  England. — Astonishment  of  the  Portuguese  at  their  easy  Conquest.  51 

CHAP.  V. 

Prayers  at  Sea. — Superstition  of  Sailors. — Crane  from  the  Canaries. — Gorgades  of 
Hesiod. — Maternal  Affection. — Flying  Fish. — Singular  Occurrence. — Cape  Verde 
Islands. — Family  of  Bottle-nose  Porpoises. — Bonitos  and  Albicores. — Suffocating 
Heat,  and  Expectation  of  a Storm. — Calms,  and  why. — Visit  from  Neptune. — 
Unhealthy  Damps. — Cross  the  Equator. — Ceremonies  omitted,  and  why. — Not 
known  when  they  were  first  practised. — Some  of  the  Characters  emblematic. — 
Sun  vertical,  no  Shadows,  and  rapid  Descent. — Life  of  a Sailor  on  Board. — Pope’s 
Compass. — Exquisite  Beauty  of  the  Stars. — Southern  Cross- — Described  by 
Dante,  Amerigo  Vespucci,  and  Camoens. — Luminous  Sea. — Probably  phospho- 
rescent.— Midshipman’s  Origin  of  Dog-Watch. — Cape  Frio,  and  extraordinary 
Cold. 61 

CHAP.  VI. 

Sugar  Loaf. — Lord  Hood’s  Face,  and  Physiognomy  of  Rocks. — Singular  Beauty  of 
the  Harbor  of  Rio. — Villegagnon. — Repercussion  of  Sound  from  the  Hills  round  the 
Bay. — Land  at  Palace-Square. — Impression  ofSlave  Population. — First  Impressions 
corrected. — Negroes  as  Soldiers  ; as  Citizens  ; as  Priests. — Irresistible  Conclusion. 
— British  Merchants. — Barred-up  Windows  removed  by  a Decree. — Rua  and  Tra- 
vessa. — Campo  de  Santa  Anna. — Streets  blocked  up  by  Hills. — Pleasant  Resi- 
dence on  the  Sea-Shore.  79 


CHAP.  VII. 

Discovery  of  the  Country  by  Cabral. — Name  changed  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Brazil, 
why. — Harbor,  why  called  Rio. — Colony  of  French  Hugonots,  the  First  Europe- 
an Inhabitants. — Expelled  by  the  Portuguese. — First  City  built  outside  the  Har- 
bor.— Called  S.  Sebastiao,  why. — Present  Site  very  unpromising  in  its  primitive 
State. — Ecclesiastics  avail  themselves  of  the  best  Situations. — Second  Invasion  of 
the  French. — Third  under  Du  Guay  Trouim. — Rio  made  the  Capital  of  Brazil. — 
Idea  of  removing  the  Seat  of  Government  from  Portugal  entertained  by  Pombal. — 
Revived  and  carried  into  Effect. — First  Impression  of  the  News  on  the  Brazil- 
ians. .---------89 

CHAP.  VIII. 


First  Act  of  the  King  on  arriving  at  Bahia. — Proceeds  to  Rio. — English  the  first 
Strangers  settled  as  Residents. — Restrictions  removed  from  native  Industry.— 


CONTENTS. 


Vll 


Printing  and  Gunpowder  introduced. — Military  Hospital,  and  Chemical  Laboratory 
established. — Indians  reclaimed  and  settled. — Vaccination  introduced. — Theatre 
built. — First  French  arrive. — The  Slave  Trade  ameliorated. — Public  Library  es- 
tablished.— Treasury,  Mint,  and  Custom-House  erected. — Extraordinary  increase 
of  Commerce. — Effects  on'  the  People  and  City. — The  King  raises  the  Colony  to  a 
Kingdom,  and  confers  on  it  distinct  armorial  Bearings. — First  Symptoms  of  Distur- 
bance at  Pernambuco. — Its  Object  and  Progress. — Suppression  and  Execution  of 
the  Leaders. — Acclamation  of  Dom  John  -----  96 


CHAP.  IX. 


Birth  of  Dom  Pedro. — Padre  Antonio  d’Arrabida,  his  Tutor. — Emigration  of  the 
Royal  Family,  and  Behavior  of  Dom  Pedro. — Suspicious  Death  of  his  Tutor  Rade- 
mak. — Disposition  and  early  Propensities  of  Dom  Pedro. — Marriage. — Takes  a de- 
cided Part  in  the  Revolution  in  Portugal. — Violent  Conduct  of  the  Portuguese 
Troops  in  Brazil. — Alarming  Consequences  apprehended. — Timidity  and  Irresolu- 
tion of  Dom  John. — Energy  and  Decision  of  Dom  Pedro. — Strange  Display  at  the 
Theatre. — The  King  resolves  to  return  to  Europe. — Electors  convoked. — Descrip- 
tion of  the  Alfandega — Speech  of  the  English  Merchants  to  the  King. — Conduct 
of  the  Electors  assembled  there. — Atrocious  Massacre  of  the  Citizens. — Fate  of 
Individuals. — The  Place  abandoned  in  Horror  ever  since. — Departure  of  Dom  John. 
— Melancholy  Contrast  between  his  Arrival  and  Departure.  - - 106 

CHAP.  X. 

Question  of  the  Independence  of  Brazil  agitated. — J.  B..  d’Andrada. — Oppressive 
Conduct  of  the  Portuguese,  who  recall  Dom  Pedro. — Effect  on  the  Brazilians. — 
Mineiros  and  Paulistas  show  first  and  highest  Spirit. — Address  presented  by  An- 
drada. — Dom  Pedro  determines  not  to  return — Composes  a Constitutional  Hymn. 
— Attempt  to  seize  him  at  the  Theatre. — Portuguese  Troops  take  a menacing  Posi- 
tion onthe'Castle-Hill. — Brazilians  assemble  at  the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna. — Oblige 
the  Portuguese  to  pass  over  to  Praya  Grande. — Dismal  State  of  Rio. — Portuguese 
^roops  compelled  to  embark. — Plots  and  Conspiracies  in  Brazil. — Prompt  and  vigor- 
ous Conduct  of  Dom  Pedro. — Rapid  Journey  to  Villa  Rica,  and  its  Effects. — Admi- 
ration and  Enthusiasm  of  the  People  for  his  Person. — Confer  on  him  a new  Title. 
— Conduct  of  Portugal. — Cradle  of  Brazilian  Liberty. — Bahia  occupied  by  European 
Troops. — Female  Heroism. — Dom  Pedro  acclaimed  Constitutional  Emperor. — In- 
consistent with  the  Declarations  to  his  Father. — Lord  Cochrane  invited  from  Chile. 
—Proceeds  against  Bahia,  and  blockades  it. — Inhabitants  driven  from  the  Town. — 
Bold  Attempt  to  burn  the  Fleet. — Madeira  evacuates  the  Town,  and  is  pursued 
across  the  Equator — Horrible  Event  at  Para.  - - - - 118 

CHAP.  XI. 

Coronation  of  Dom  Pedro. — Picture  at  the  Academy  — Meeting  of  the  Constituent 
Assembly. — First  enlightened  Proceedings. — Spirit  of  Democracy  begins  to  appear. 
— Dissolution  by  military  Force. — The  Andradas  and  other  Members  seized  and 
exiled. — Anecdotes  of  the  Andradas. — Emperor  promises  another  Constitution. — 
Accepted  by  the  People — Burning  of  the  Theatre. — Independence  of  Brazil  ac- 
knowledged by  Dom  John. — Congress  of  Panama. — Magnificent  but  impracticable 
Conception. — Cause  of  the  War  with  Buenos  Ayres. — Monte  Video  seized  by 


Vlll 


CONTENTS . 


Portuguese. — Absurd  Adulation  of  the  Cabildo. — Petty  Warfare. — Fleet  in  the  Rio 
de  Plata. — Weak  Pretensions  to  blockade. — Evil  Consequences  of  the  War. — Em- 
peror embarks  for  St.  Catharine’s.  ------  132 

CHAP.  XII. 

Empress  taken  alarmingly  ill. — Means  resorted  to  for  her  Recovery. — Affecting  An- 
ecdotes of  her  amiable  Disposition. — Revolting  Conduct  of  her  Camareira. — Death 
and  Funeral. — Sensibility  of  Dona  Maria. — Spontaneous  Testimonies  of  the  Love 
which  all  Classes  bore  her. — Conduct  and  Character. — Children. — Death  of  her 
first  Child  attributed  to  the  English,  and  strange  Impressions  of  the  eldest  Sons  of 
the  House  of  Braganza. — Emperor  returns  to  Rio. — Battle  of  Ituzango. — War 
against  human  Civilization. — Peace  made,  but  not  ratified. — Legislative  Body  as- 
sembles. - ------.  146 

CHAP.  XIII. 

Irish  and  German  Soldiers. — Strong  Prejudices  of  the  Brazilians. — Treatment  of  the 
Irish. — Means  taken  to  exasperate  them. — Mutiny  among  the  Germans  at  S. 
Christovao. — Spreads  to  the  Praya  Vermelha. — Murder  of  their  Major. — Sangui- 
nary Orders  of  the  Minister  at  War. — Insurrection  of  the  Irish  at  the  Campo  d’Ac- 
clamacao. — French  and  English  Marines  landed. — Cruelty  of  the  Moleques. — 
Number  of  Persons  killed. — Irish  embarked  on  board  Ships  of  War. — Kind  Conduct 
of  the]Emperor  to  them. — Horrid  Stette  in  which  some  were  found — Sent  Home.— 
Disposal  of  those  left  behind. — German  soldiers  tried  as  Mutineers,  and  one  ex- 
ecuted.— Intrepid  Conduct. — Emperor  visits  the  English  Admiral.— Dismisses  his 
Ministry  for  their  Conduct.  - -----  157 

j 

CHAP.  XIV. 

Peace  with  Buenos  Ayres. — Disappointment  and  Vexation  of  the  People  at  Rio. — ■ 
Disastrous  Effects  of  the  War. — Treatment  of  Foreign  Officers  in  the  Service. — 
Death  of  Dom  John. — Emperor  abdicates  in  favor  ofhis  Daughter. — R'apid  Compo- 
sition of  the  Portuguese  Constitution. — British  Ambassador  the  Bearer  of  it  to  Eu- 
rope.— Birth  and  Baptism  of  Dona  Maria,  and  why  so  called. — Marriage  with  her 
Uncle  contemplated  at  her  Birth. — Conduct  of  Dom  Miguel  in  Portugal. — Revives 
the  obsolete  Cortes  of  Lamego — Abolishes  the  new  Constitution, r and  is  proclaimed 
King. — Anger  of  Dom  Pedro,  and  cui\ous  Indications  of  it. — Sends  Dona  Maria  to 
Vienna. — She  stops  at  Gibraltar,  and  proceeds  to  England.— Treated  as  Q,ueen,  but 
her  Ambassador  not  acknowledged,  and  why. — Situation  of  Brazil  on  our  Arri- 
val. . - - - - 171 


CHAP.  XV. 


Emperor’s  baptismal  Day. — British  Chapel.— -Obstacles  opposed  to  its  Erection  by- 
Pope’s  Nuncio,  and  his  strange  Proposition. — Different  Conduct  of  the  Bishop  of 
Rio,  and  his  curious  Argument. — First  Edifice  raised  for  reformed  Worship  in 
South  America. — Opening  of  Chapel.—- Assault  on  the  Windows. — Present  neglected 
State. — Strange  Compound  of  Liberality  and  Prejudice  in  a Brazilian  Writer. — 
Obstinacy  of  Mules. — Choleric  Driver. — Festival  on  the  Eve  of  All  Souls. — Drama- 
tic Exhibition. — Visit  the  Church  of  St.  Francisco  on  All  Souls’  Day. — Miracles 


CONTENTS 


IX 


wrought  on  the  Living. — Moorish  Customs  in  Chapel. — Treatment  of  the  Dead. — 
Church  of  Candelaria. — Revolting  Appearance  of  the  Rosario. — Convent  of  S. 
Bento.— Library. — Anecdote  ofDom  John. — Convent  of  S.  Antonia,  and  Tomb  of 
General  Forbes.— Refectory  and  Library.— Beautiful  Site  ofthe  Nunnery  of  S.  The- 
resa.—Faith  in  the  Protection  of  Boa  Viagem,  shaken  by  an  Accident.— St.  Do- 
mingo Chapel  for  Blacks.— Sta.  Rita  for  Malefactors.  180 

CHAP.  XVI. 

Nunnery  of  Ajuda. — Mode  of  Communication  with  People  outside. — Attend  the  Pro- 
fession of  a Nun. — Particulars  of  the  affecting  Solemnity. — Levity  ofthe  Brazilians 
present. — Recolhimentos  for  misconducted  Wives. — For  Female  Orphans. — Com- 
mutation of  Tithes. — Very  injurious  to  the  present  Clergy. — Episcopal  Establish- 
ment.— Brazilians  hostile  to  monastic  Institutions. — Proposition  in  the  Chambers 
for  Marriage  ofthe  Clergy.— Benedictines  own  many  Houses  in  Rio,  and  are  kind 
Landlords. — Supposed  Hostility  of  the  Minister  of  the  Interior  to  the  Clergy,  and 
why. — Rather  a Friend  to  the  Character  of  the  Church. — Irmandades. — Their  great 
Utility  and  extensive  Charity. — Native  Clergy,  why  not  learned. — Admission  of 
Blacks  to  Holy  Orders. — Extraordinary  Contrast  with  our  West-Indies.  - 194 

CHAP.  XVII. 

Bishop  of  Rio. — Invited  to  dine  at  his  Palace. — His  Simplicity  and  Urbanity. — 
Library. — Anecdote  of  Southey’s  History  of  Brazil. — Temperate  and  studious 
Habits  of  the  Bishop. — General  Character  of  the  Clergy. — Abridgement  of  the  Num- 
ber of  Holidays. — St.  George  and  St.  Patrick. — Great  Patron,  S.  Sebastiao,  Cele- 
bration of  his  Festival. — Fire-Works  and  wax  Candles. — Enormous  Expense. — 
Brazilian  Observance  of  Sunday. — Sometimes  work, but  never  indulge  in  Intemper- 
ance.— Greatest  Violation  of  Sabbath  by  American  and  English  Sailors. — Sebasti- 
anists. — Origin  of  Sect. — Prophetic  Disciples. — Number  and  Character  in  Brazil. — 
Introduced  to  one. — Strange  Bargain  of  Sebastianist  Shopkeeper. — Curious  Doci>- 
ment.  ---------  - 205 


CHAP.  XVIII. 

Establishments  for  Education  at  Rio. — Military  Academy. — Officers  of  the  Army  and 
Navy  taken  from  the  humble  Ranks  in  Life. — School  of  Medicine. — Meet  a Euro- 
pean Friend  at  the  Hospital  of  the  Misericordia. — Immense  Establishment,  sup- 
ported by  voluntary  Contributions  of  the  Irmandades. — Singular  Usage,  confined 
to  this  Hospital- — Universal  Admission. — Lunatics  — Cemetery,  and  Mode  of  In- 
terment.— Number  of  Patients  and  Complaints, — Medical  Education. — No  Preju- 
dice against  Dissection. — Not  often  practised,  and  why. — Physicians  no  fixed  Fees. 
— State  of  Health  at  Rio,  sometimes  disturbed  by  Marsh  Fevers. — Alarm  of  People, 
and  Clergy  refuse  to  attend. — Ascertained  to  be  common  Fever. — Small-Pox  very 
fatal. — Sciatica,  Bobas,  communicated  by  singular  Contagion. — Bichu. — Doubtful 
Cause. — Prickly  Heat  never  leaves  some  till  they  recross  the  Equator. — Lock-jaw 
and  Worms  in  the  Head. — Poison  by  human  Hair. — Lime  and  Dirt  —Elephantiasis. 
— Various  Symptoms. — Frightful  Effects. — Enormous  Tumors. — Unnatural  Appear- 
ance of  a Negro  at  the  Misericordia. — Remedies  peculiar  to  the  Brazilians. — Negro 
Champooing. — Bolsa  das  Cobras. — Cupping  with  Cows’  Horns. — Extraction  of 
Bichu. — Black  Cock. — Evil  Eye  and  extraordinary  Amulet. — Number  of  medical 
Practitioners.  --------  - 216 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  XIX. 

Academy  of  Fine  Arts.— Picture  of  the  Coronation  —Its  Fate.— Students.— National 
Museum.— Indian  Remains. — Puerile  Models.— Fecundity  of  Brazil  in  Objects  of 
Natural  History. — Dawn  of  Literature. — Works  of  native  Authors  printed  at  Rio. — 
Geographical  Anecdote.— Fifteen  Periodicals  at  Rio.— Character  of  some.— Aurora, 
Analista,  Malagueta.— French  Paper  attacked  by  them  all.— “ Noticias  Particu- 
lars ” of  Journal  do  Commercio. — Correspondencia,  curious  Mode  of  Libel. — Ex- 
amples.— Certificate  of  Baptism. — Singular  Exposure. — Public  Library. — Elegance 
and  Liberality  of  the  Establishment.— Catholics  not  Enemies  to  Knowledge. — ■ 
Lancastrian  Schools. — English  and  Portuguese  Mode  of  Writing. — French  taught 
with  Portuguese,  but  not  English. — Remnant  of  former  Ignorance.  - 231 

CHAP.  XX. 

Advantages  of  Rio  Harbor. — First  extraordinary  Exportation  of  the  English  Blan- 
kets, Warming-Pans,  and  Skates. — Uses  to  which  they  were  applied. — Interesting 
Appearance  of  Custom-House  Gluay. — Stamping. — Mode  ofincreasing  Officers’  Sal- 
aries.— Proper  and  spirited  Conduct  of  French  Consul-General. — Imports. — Exports. 
— Commercial  Treaties. — Number  of  foreign  Vessels  in  the  Harbor  present  a fine 
Spoctacle. — Money  and  Accounts. — Copper  the  only  metallic  Circulation. — Mint. 
— Diamonds  for  Sale. — Neglect  of  Precaution.  - 244 

CHAP.  XXL 

Extraordinary  Increase  of  the  City. — Obstructions  to  Improvement  and  Salubrity. — . 
Numbering  of  Houses. — Lighting  with  Gas. — Creaking  Carts. — Population  of  Rio 
very  uncertain  hitherto. — Usual  Rates  of  Calculation  not  applicable  to  Rio,  and 

< why. — French. — English.— Probable  Amount  of  present  Population. — Manners  of 
the  People,  Ministers,  Men  of  Rank,  and  Ladies. — Shopkeepers. — Make  Vows  in 
Danger. — Brazilian  Menage. — Negro  Improvidence. — Association  of  Trades — Glass 
and  Tea,  Barbers  and  Musicians. — No  Beggars  nor  unfortunate  Females  ever  seen 
in  the  Streets. — Foundlings — singular  Advantages  of  Slaves  when  illegitimate.— 
Amusements,  Passeio  Publico,  barbarous  Taste  in  shutting  out  the  Sea-Air. — 
Botanic  Garden,  improperly  so  called. — Plants  from  lie  de  France  and  Cayenne, 
and  Tea  from  China. — Drink  it  at  the  Garden.  . 253 

CHAP.  XXII. 

Theatre  visited  with  a Judgment  for  sacrilegious  Dilapidation  of  Church. — Why  en- 
deared to  Brazilians. — Lotteries. — Post-Office,  Mail,  and  Mode  of  delivering  Let- 
ters.'— Mistakes  and  Inconveniences. — Corrupt  Administration  of  Justice. — One 
Tribunal  not  mercenary. — Curious  Anecdote. — Police,  only  Natives,  seen  intoxi- 
cated, and  generally  arrest  the  wrong  Persons  — Onze  Lettras,  an  Offence  at  Rio, 
why. — Execution  of  Criminals. — Mode  of  saving  their  Lives. — Anecdote. — Fune- 
rals.— Revolting  Mode  of  depositing  the  Body. — Wax  Tapers.  - - 266 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAP.  XXIII. 

Supply  of  Water  from  Corcovado. — Ascend  it  with  some  Friends. — Cataract  and 
Aqueduct. — Carioca,  and  old  Inscription. — Name  given  to  Brazilian  Cockneys. — 
Commotion  among  the  Black  Water-Carriers. — Fountain  of  the  Mareccas. — An- 
other Supply  from  Tijuca,  visit  it  with  a Friend. — Chalybeate  Well. — Magnificent 
Cataracts. — Water  conveyed  to  Xafariz,  in  the  Campo  de  Sta.  Anna. — City  re- 
quires further  Supply. — Meat  at  Public  Matanga. — Prejudice  against  Mutton. — 
Extraordinary  Use  of  it  on  the  Rio  de  la  Plata. — Fish. — Rumors  of  an  enormous 
and  voracious  Kind  in  the  Bay. — Excellent  Pao  de  Trigo,  or  wheaten  Bread. — Man- 
dioca  and  Feijao. — Mindoubi  and  Fedagosa. — Berries  of  three  Kinds  of  Myrtle. — 
Other  Fruits. — Capsule  of  the  Passion-Flower. — Bananas  and  Catalonian  Wine. — 
Caxas,  or  Cachaga,  a Kind  of  Rum.  ------  273 


CHAP.  XXIV. 

Birth-Day  of  Dom  Pedro  d’Alcantara,  grand  Gala  at  the  Palace. — Attend  at  the 
Levee. — Palace  prepared  and  painted — imperial  Arms  of  Brazil. — Supporters — ■ 
Liveries.— Guard  of  Honor. — Mode  of  Introduction  to  the  Emperor. — His  Son,  a 
fine  interesting  Boy. — Inconvenience  of  a Clergyman’s  Gown. — Melancholy  Death 
of  our  young  Friend. — English  Cemetery  at  the  Gamboa. — Emperor  approves  and 
purposes  to  establish  similar  ones. — Monument  and  Epitaph.  - - 285 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL, 


In  1828  and  1829. 


CHAP.  I. 

Portsmouth.-—?  rtuguese  Emigrants. — Galatea  Frigate — Mode  of  taking  in  Water. 
Experimental  Squadron. — Mother  Carey’s  Chickens. — Sadler’s  Balloon. — Lisbon 
Packet. — Whale  and  Thresher. — Exercise  at  Guns.— Brilliancy  of  the  Constellation 
of  Scorpio. — Modes  of  Punishment. — Fogbank  mistaken  for  Madeira. — Deserters, 
and  absurd  Corruption  of  foreign  Names. — Porto  Santo — Discovery,  and  Reason  of 
the  Name. — Extraordinary  Opinions  entertained  of  Madeira. — Founded  in  natural 
Causes. — Madeira. — Lights  on  Shore. — Uncertainty  of  its  Fate. — Portuguese 
Squadron  lying  before  it. 

I will  follow  your  advice  in  my  communications  to  you. 
I will  go  to  a new  country  with  a mind  unbiassed  by  any 
previous  account,  and  set  down  things  for  your  information 
as  they  strike  me  personally,  and  while  the  impression  is  re- 
cent. “ What  mine  eyes  have  seen,”  as  old  Gerard  has  it,  I 
will  detail  from  my  own  experience  ; and  what  mine  eyes 
have  not  seen,  I will  endeavor  to  supply  from  the  oral  com- 
munications of  those  intelligent  persons  for  whom  I have 
letters.  Fortunately  this  latter  source  of  information  is 
very  satisfactory.  Many  of  them  have  been  themselves 
eye-witnesses  of  everything  that  has  passed  since  Brazil  ceas- 
ed to  be  a mere  province,  and  became  independent — that  is, 
since  it  was  worth  inquiring  about. 

One  inconvenience,  however,  may  result  from  the  mode 
you  prescribe  to  me.  You  must  expect  to  receive  much  in- 
formation which  is  anticipated  by  my  respectable  precur- 
sors, and  in  a manner  superior  to  what  my  crude  communi- 
cations can  offer  ; but  1 will  endeavor  to  glean  for  you  as 
much  as  possible  that  is  new,  and  this  perhaps  will  not  be 
very  difficult  in  a young  country,  just  starting  into  political 


14 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


existence,  where  every  progressive  year  is  an  historical 
record  of  a new  state  of  things. 

When  I arrived  at  Portsmouth  to  embark,  the  town  was 
full  of  Portuguese  emigrants,  who  had  been  concerned  in 
the  affair  of  Oporto,  and  then  taken  refuge  in  England. 
While  walking  on  the  ramparts,  I met  sundry  groups  of 
them  ; they  were  in  general  very  meanly  dressed,  looked 
hungry,  squalid,  and  dirty  ; and  had  I seen  English  soldiers 
in  such  a plight,  1 should  say  they  were  in  the  last  stage  of 
disorganization  and  despondency.  But  not  so  these  men  ; 
they  were,  generally  speaking,  in  high  spirits,  talked  with 
volubility  and  animation  ; and  their  dusky  visages  were  oc- 
casionally lighted  up  with  hope  and  determination.  They 
were,  moreover,  surrounded  with  groups  of  females  of  the 
place,  who  were  teaching  them  English  ; and  they  seemed 
delighted  with  the  attentions  of  their  fair  instructers.  A 
party  of  the  men  asked  me  some  questions  as  I passed  by, 
and  entered  into  conversation  with  me.  They  talked  of  pro- 
ceeding to  Brazil,  and  I expected  to  have  met  them  again. 
Neither  I nor  they  were  then  aware  that  this  was  also  a 
sealed  country,  and  its  people  still  more  hostile  and  preju- 
diced against  them  than  their  own.  They  certainly  seemed 
a fine  body  of  young  men,  and  their  fate  very  severe.  They 
had  already  suffered  great  hardships  and  privations,  and 
were  at  that  moment  endeavoring  to  exist  in  the  dearest 
town  in  Europe,  on  a vintem,  or  about  three  half-pence 
a-day,  which  they  told  me  was  all  they  had  for  their  sub- 
sistence. 

The  Galatea  frigate  had  been  appointed  to  convey  us  to 
Brazil  ; and  at  nine  in  the  morning  of  August  26,  1828,  we 
embarked  at  the  Sallyport.  One  of  our  companions  attach- 
ed to  the  embassy  was  a young  gentleman,  the  Hon.  Mr. 
Stanhope,  whose  health  was  very  delicate,  and  whose  friends 
had  fondly  hoped  that  the  bland  and  temperate  climate  of 
the  country  would  restore  him.  His  mother  and  brother 
had  come  with  him  to  Portsmouth,  and  now  stood  on  the 
pier  to  see  him  embark.  By  an  effort  of  strong  minds,  they 
endeavored  to  conceal  the  appearance  of  those  feelings 
which  a melancholy  presentiment  had  impressed  : butthough 
apparently  calm,  and  even  cheerful,  I shall  never  forget  the 
expression  of  maternal  agony  in  the  countenance  of  his  mo- 
ther when  she  turned  away  after  her  last  farewell  ; it  was 
prophetic  of  the  event — she  was  doomed  never  to  see  him 
again. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


15 


We  found  the  frigate  taking  in  water  from  a vessel  along- 
side. This  was  effected  not  by  the  tedious  process  of  casks  ; 
but  the  vessel  was  a floating  reservoir  of  fresh  water,  from 
whence  it  was  conveyed  by  pipes  and  pumps  to  a similar 
one  in  the  hold  of  the  ship.  This  mode,  which  I now  saw 
for  the  first  time,  seemed  a great  improvement  on  the  for- 
mer practice,  not  only  in  saving  time,  but  in  preserving  the 
quality  of  the  fluid.  I remember,  in  my  early  sea  voyages, 
in  a merchant  ship,  our  water  was  in  a cask  on  deck  ; from 
whence  it  was  drawn  by  a little  wooden  pump,  which  every 
one  applied  to  his  mouth  when  he  was  thirsty  ; and  as  one 
cask  was  drunk  out,  another  was  set  in  its  place.  The 
water  soon  became  hot  and  turbid,  and  contracted  a flavor 
of  wood  which  no  process  could  deprive  it  of.  That  which 
we  used  in  our  present  voyage  acquired  no  bad  taste,  and 
when  it  became  disturbed  and  discolored,  it  was  passed 
through  a filter  of  gravel  and  charcoal  ; so  that  we  had  it 
perfectly  cool,  limpid,  and  sweet  during  the  whole  of  our 
voyage  between  the  tropics.  About  11,  a.  m.  we  got  under 
way  with  a favorable  breeze  at  south-east,  accompanied  by 
a transport  full  of  convicts,  which  happened  to  weigh  an- 
chor at  the  same  time. 

The  next  day,  we  passed  Admiral  Blackwood  and  the 
experimental  squadron,  forming  a fine  object,  standing  be- 
fore a favorable  breeze,  and  attracting  the  close  and  un- 
divided attention  of  our  friends  on  board.  Some  trials  of 
skill  had  been  made  lately  between  vessels  of  this  squad- 
ron, which  were  as  eagerly  witnessed  in  the  nautical,  as 
the  races  at  Newmarket  could  have  been  in  the  sporting, 
world.  Songs  were  made  on  the  occasion,  which  were 
sung  on  the  forecastle,  in  which  the  winning  ship  was  call- 
ed the  “ Saucy  ” something,  and  seemed  to  excite  no  small 
degree  of  envy  among  our  crew,  who  threatened  in  good 
verse,  to  “take  the  shine  out  of  her  ” on  the  next  occasion. 

On  the  29th,  I saw,  for  the  first  time,  Mother  Carey’s 
Chickens.  These  little  birds  are  about  the  size  of  thrush- 
es, but  resemble  martins  in  their  shape  and  flight.  They 
are  brown,  with  white  bellies,  short  forked  tails,  and  long 
pointed  wings  ; but  are  particularly  distinguished  by  a 
hook,  formed  by  a sudden  bend  of  the  tip  of  their  beak. 
They  fly  along  with  uncommon  rapidity,  wheeling  and 
skimming  over  the  surface  of  the  surge,  with  a lightness 
and  flexibility  which  is  singularly  elegant.  They  some- 
times disappeared  suddenly,  entering  the  breast  of  a wave, 


16 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


like  a martin  into  a sand  bank  ; and  they  are  endued  with 
such  an  amphibious  nature,  that  they  frequently  remain 
half  an  hour  underwater  without  re-appearing.  They  feed 
on  the  wing,  like  swallows,  and  were  so  familiar,  that,  like 
them,  they  seemed  to  love  the  haunts  of  men,  in  the  solitary 
deep  ; and  followed  the  ship,  flitting  close  under  the  cabin 
windows,  and  within  a handspike’s  length  of  the  side,  with 
a seeming  sense  of  security,  justified  by  the  event  ; as 
sailors  entertain  for  them  a superstitious  respect,  and,  I am 
told,  never  injure  them.  When  the  elder  Mr.  Sadler  at- 
tempted to  cross  from  Ireland  to  England  in  a balloon,  he 
fell  into  the  sea,  about  mid-channel.  He  was  immediately 
surrounded  by  a number  of  birds  of  this  class,  attracted,  as 
he  supposed,  by  some  fragments  of  his  provision  in  the  car 
of  his  balloon.  Though  nearly  in  the  dark,  out  of  sight  of 
land,  and  almost  suffocated  with  the  waves,  he  felt,  he  told 
me  afterwards,  a kind  of  social  comfort  in  the  company  of 
these  familiar  little  birds,  which  surrounded  and  followed 
him  like  chickens  in  a farm-yard.  In  the  Western  Islands, 
where  we  afterwards  touched,  they  most  abound,  and  they 
kill  them  in  quantities,  for  their  oih  They  are  so  plump, 
that  the  islanders  merely  draw  a candle-wick  through  their 
bodies,  and  it  becomes  so  saturated  with  the  liquid  fat,  as 
to  form  a lamp  without  further  process.  Their  appearance 
at  sea  is  supposed  to  foretell  a storm  ; and  if  they  are  not 
always  the  precursors,  they  are  generally,  I believe,  the 
companions  of  one  ; as  they  are  seen  in  the  strongest  gales, 
topping  the  ridges  of  the  wave,  and  following  its  undulation 
close  to  the  surface.  It  is  for  that  reason  they  are  called 
by  ornithologists  “ the  stormy  petterel,”  (Procellaria  pe- 
lagicn).  I send  you  sketches  I made  of  two,  one  in  the  act 
of  flight,  and  the  other  lighting  on  something  floating  on 
the  water.  We  this  day  passed  a French  frigate,  the  Pal- 
las, of  sixty  guns,  for  Brest  or  Toulon.  She  was  visited 
by  our  boat  with  an  officer  on  board.  The  captain  received 
him  very  politely,  and  offered  him  refreshments  ; but  took, 
or  affected  to  take,  no  interest  in  our  ship  or  her  destina- 
tion, as  he  asked  no  questions.  She  was  distinguished  by 
her  broad  milk-white  flag,  which  floated  on  the  breeze  like 
a sheet  of  snow. 

We  next  day  fell  in  with  the  Lisbon  packet,  and  lay-to 
to  speak  to  her.  A boat  which  we  sent  on  board  brought 
back  the  captain,  who  reported,  with  seeming  satisfaction, 
that  the  affairs  of  Portugal  were  daily  more  and  more  in- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


17 


volved — that  Dom  Miguel  had  fallen  out  with  his  mother, 
and  two  separate  parties  were  forming,  between  whom  the 
Constitutionalists  were  again  raising  their  drooping  heads. 
He  seemed  to  speak  the  sentiments  of  the  English  residents 
at  least,  in  Portugal,  which  were  decidedly  hostile  to  the 
present  order  of  things.  We  availed  ourselves  of  the  op- 
portunity to  write  home.  Such  meetings  of  our  country- 
men, in  the  midst  of  the  lonely  ocean,  are  as  cheering  as 
they  are  momentary.  They  form  an  unexpected  variety  to 
the  dismal  monotony  of  our  lives,  and  a link  of  communica- 
tion with  the  dear  friends  we  have  left  behind. 

Early  next  morning,  a whale  was  seen  at  some  distance 
from  the  ship,  blowing  and  spouting  water  ; immediately 
after,  a fish  called  a thrasher,  sprung  to  a considerable  height 
out  of  the  sea  towards  the  whale,  and  seemed  to  attack  it. 
The  unwieldy  and  defenceless  monster  appeared  as  if  in- 
capable of  giving  effectual  resistance  to  its  active  foe,  and 
rolled  and  tumbled  about  in  considerable  agitation,  as  long 
as  they  continued  in  sight.  The  sailors  on  the  forecastle, 
who  were  enjoying  the  spectacle,  informed  me,  that  the  ap- 
pearance of  a whale  in  this  latitude  was  rare,  and  was  oc- 
casioned, according  to  their  theory,  by  the  thrasher,  who 
sometimes  attacks  it  among  the  polar  ice,  and  pursues  and 
persecutes  it  down  to  the  equator.  Nor  is  this  account  of 
the  sailors  altogether  fanciful  : writers  on  natural  history 
affirm  that  they  frequently  surround  the  whale  like  bull-dogs, 
and  bait  him  to  death  with  their  sharp  teeth.  They  have 
even  been  known  to  tear  a harpooned  whale  from  the  ship’s 
side,  and  drag  the  body  to  the  bottom.  The  genus,  how- 
ever, of  this  formidable  fish  is  not  well  ascertained;  Old 
Fabricius,  who  calls  it  balcenamm  iyr annus,  supposes  it  to 
be  a grampus,  (Delphinus  orca),  and  Pennant  the  long- 
tailed shark,  ( Squalus  vuipes). 

We  this  day  passed  Cape  Finisterre  ; I was  in  hopes  to 
have  seen,  at  least  at  a distance,  this  celebrated  promontory, 
the  Finis  Terras  of  the  ancient  world,  beyond  which  it  was 
not  given  to  man  to  explore — where  all  was  mystery  and 
chaos — but  it  was  not  visible.  We  stood  away  from  it,  and 
kept  a large  c-ffing,  to  avoid  the  calms  always  felt  when  a 
vessel  passes  near  it. 

The  next  day,  September  2,  was  beautifully  fine  and 
temperate.  The  thermometer  stood  at  69.  A number  of 
grampuses  seemed  to  enjoy  the  balmy  season,  and  came 
tumbling  and  rolling  about  our  vessel,  as  if  they  were  per- 


18 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


forming  feats  of  agility  for  our  amusement.  A boat  was; 
sent  out  to  take  a survey  round  the  ship,  and  she  appeared 
floating  on  liquid  emeralds,  the  sea  was  so  exquisitely  clear, 
green,  and  lucid.  The  men  were  exercised  at  their  guns, 
and  went  through  all  the  evolutions  of  a sea-fight,  now  re- 
pelling, and  then  boarding  their  enemy.  I followed  their 
advance  and  retreat,  to  the  different  parts  of  the  ship,  and 
felt  like  the  man  in  Homer,  whom  Minerva  takes  under 
her  care,  and  leads  by  the  hand  unhurt,  through  the  midst 
of  the  battle.  Like  him,  too,  I could  find  no  fault  with  the 
evolutions,  for  it  was  a bloodless  encounter.  One  thing, 
however,  struck  me  as  among  the  inconsistent  acts  of  hu- 
manity, in  which  our  erring  nature  delights  to  indulge  : it 
was  intended  to  shoot  balls  at  a sham  vessel,  placed  at 
some  distance,  but  this  was  omitted.  There  was  a sick 
man  on  board,  and  with  a kind  consideration  for  his  state, 
they  would  not  fire,  lest  the  explosion  should  disturb  his 
head  ; while  the  exercise  in  which  they  were  engaged  had 
for  its  sole  object,  to  make  the  crew  more  expert  at  knock- 
ing out  the  brains  of  other  people. 

On  Thursday,  September  4,  a gale  sprung  up  at  north- 
east, and  increased  our  way  to  ten  knots  an  hour  ; but  it 
changed  to  south-west,  and  we  were  obliged  to  make  the 
first  tack  since  the  commencement  of  our  voyage.  A small 
bird,  of  the  motacilla  kind,  was  seen  in  the  chains,  and  it 
was  pursued  by  the  midshipmen,  who  wished  to  cage  it. 
It  never  attempted  to  leave  the  ship,  but  flew  about  the 
shrouds,  alighting  at  short  distances,  as  if  it  were  incapable 
of  continuing  long  on  the  wing.  It  is  not  easy  to  conceive 
how  such  a creature,  whose  capability  of  flight  seemed  so 
limited,  and  who  hopped  about  like  a small  bird  in  one  of 
our  hedges,  could  have  traversed  an  extent  of  ocean,  so 
many  hundred  miles  from  any  land.  There  is  certainly 
something  mysterious,  and  hidden  from  our  eyes,  in  the 
movements  of  some  birds.  I do  not  wonder  that  the  Ro- 
mans made  them  the  prime  source  of  their  omens  and  au- 
guries. 

On  Sunday,  September  7,  the  weather  was  so  violent 
that  we  could  not  have  public  service,  and  we  exercised 
our  devotions  in  our  own  cabins,  in  which  we  were  inundat- 
ed by  the  surge.  The  sea  made  its  way  into  all  the  berths 
on  the  weather  side,  including  mine,  and  saturated  them 
with  salt  water.  It  was  necessary  to  have  the  lights  caulk- 
ed and  boarded  up,  the  carpets  taken  off,  and  everything 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


19 


turned  out  into  a drier  place  ; and  I lay  in  my  damp  cot, 
exceedingly  sick,  suffocating,  and  comfortless,  which  state 
continued  all  night  and  next  day. 

On  Tuesday,  September  9,  the  gale  subsided  into  light 
baffling  airs,  and  we  were  all  on  deck,  looking  out  for  the 
land  of  Porto  Santo.  Two  large  vessels  appeared  on  our 
lee  beam,  and  we  conjectured  they  were  part  of  Dora  M- 
guel’s  squadron,  proceeding  to  Madeira,  where  we  hoped 
to  arrive  along  with  them,  and  be  eye-witnesses  to  the 
events  which  were  likely  to  follow  : they  were,  however,  at 
too  great  a distance,  with  hulls  down,  so  that  we  could  not 
ascertain  if  they  were  ships  of  war.  I passed  a considera- 
ble part  of  the  night  on  deck,  watching  the  rising  constel- 
lations of  the  southern  semicircle  of  the  ecliptic,  which 
were,  in  the  clear  atmosphere  of  our  present  latitude,  singu- 
larly brilliant  and  beautiful.  The  whole  figure  of  Scorpio 
was  now  high  above  the  horizon,  its  vast  tail  glittering  with 
starry  joints,  extending  to  the  length  assigned  by  Ovid,  and 
designating  the  memorable  spot  where  Phaeton  was  turned 
in  his  celestial  enterprise.*  Mars  appeared  in  the  bow  of 
Sagittarius,  as  large  and  brilliant  as  Venus,  and  exhibiting 
an  appearance  so  different  from  that  which  he  presents  in 
our  hazy  atmosphere,  that  he  seemed  a new  and  undescribed 
planet.  To  one  whose  eye  is  made  familiar  with  the  visi- 
ble starry  firmament,  any  change  of  position  presents  objects 
more  new,  interesting,  and  beautiful  than  the  finest  land- 
scape on  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

This  morning,  as  I was  proceeding  on  deck,  I was 
struck  with  the  dead  silence  that  reigned  above,  and  seeing 
some  of  the  officers  pass  up  in  their  full  uniform,  with  very 
serious  looks  ; presently  the  deep  moans  of  a man  in  pain 
explained  to  me  that  a punishment  was  inflicting.  There 
was  something  awfully  dismal  in  the  thing,  and  it  was  right 
to  make  it  as  impressive  as  possible,  by  the  solemnity  of 
everything  accompanying  it  ; but  I shrunk  back  into  my 
cabin,  with  an  unconquerable  sense  of  sickness  and  dis- 
gust. The  idea  of  corporal  punishment  of  this  kind  is  re- 
pugnant to  every  good  feeling  of  our  nature  ; and  it  ap- 
pears to  me,  that  a man  so  degraded  is  not  fit,  and  ought 

* Est  locus  ingeus  in  geminos  ubi  brachia  concavat  arcus 
Scorpios,  et  cauda  flexisque  utrinque  lacertis, 

Porrigit  in  spatium  signorum  membra  duorum. 

This,  though  seldom  visible  in  the  horizon  of  England,  was  very  dis- 
tinct on  that  of  Rome,  where  these  lines  were  written,  and  we  were 
just  now  in  nearly  the  same  latitude. 


20 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


not,  to  associate  again  on  terms  of  equality  with  his  mess- 
mates ; he  cannot  rise  to  their  level,  and  he  only  sinks 
them  to  his.  It  is  a trite  remark,  and  founded  I believe  in 
experience,  that  u a flogged  man  is  good  for  nothing  ; ” he 
has  lost  that  feeling  of  self-respect,  which  is  the  most 
powerful  moral  restraint,  and  he  never  can  regain  it.  It 
will  not  now  be  said,  that  it  is  an  indispensable  auxiliary  to 
good  discipline.  In  many  services  it  is  altogether  abolish- 
ed, and  I cannot  believe  that  our  brave  soldiers  and  sailors 
are  so  refractory  and  incorrigible  as  exclusively  to  require 
the  humiliating  punishment  of  stripes  and  blows,  which 
other  nations  think  too  degrading  to  inflict.  Indeed  it  is, 
comparatively  speaking,  tailing  into  great  disuse  in  our 
army,  and  not  found  at  all,  as  I have  been  informed,  to  in- 
jure the  service  : it  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  soon  cease  in  our 
navy  also.  On  board  the  Galatea,  several  minor  punish- 
ments were  resorted  to  by  the  humane  commander,  to 
mark  disapprobation  for  petty  offences,  and  they  seemed 
an  effectual  substitute  for  flogging.  A man  with  his  ham- 
mock was  ordered  aloft,  and  he  was  obliged  to  stand  with 
his  bare  feet  on  the  thin  rattiings  of  the  shrouds,  for  half  an 
hour.  It  was  like  the  picketing  of  a cavalry  regiment,  and 
seemed  to  make  the  sufferer  effectually  sorry  for  his  fault, 
and  tired  of  his  punishment.  I found  another,  one  day, 
pacing  up  and  down  the  quarter-deck,  with  his  hammock 
on  his  shoulders,  and  he  was  ordered  to  move  about  there 
for  an  hour,  while  all  his  messmates  were  enjoying  them- 
selves below.  He,  too,  before  the  expiration  of  his  time, 
seemed  heartily  tired,  and  not  likely  to  repeat  the  offence 
for  which  he  was  punished. 

Our  latitude  this  day  was  33°  13'  north,  and  our  longi- 
tude 15°  44'  west ; so  that  Porto  Santo  was  only  thirty  four 
miles  distant.  We  were  all  straining  our  eyes  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of  it,  and  several  conjectures  and  positive  asser- 
tions, ending  in  wagers,  were  made  by  the  sharp-sighted, 
that  they  saw  land  in  different  directions.  One  of  our  offi- 
cers, who  was  to  our  crew  like  Linceus  to  t lie  Argonauts, 
for  like  him  he  “ was  gifted  with  the  sharpest  6703,”  * 
affirmed,  in  a manner  that  defied  all  contradiction,  that  a 
dark  mass  on  the  horizon,  behind  which  the  sun  was  setting, 
was  the  island  of  Madeira  : before  night,  however,  it  van- 
ished ; and  it  was  ascertained  to  be  one  of  those  deceptive 


' OfyrcL'rois  tx,zKst<rTo  o/uy.a.tri.  Apol.  Rhod. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL, 


21 


fog-banks  which  present  an  outline,  as  sharp  and  well-de- 
fined as  the  ridge  of  a mountain.  Our  clear-sighted  man, 
nevertheless,  had  reason  for  this  conjecture  ; for  if  those 
dense  mists  now  assume  the  appearance  of  islands,  Madei- 
ra itself  was  for  several  years  considered  nothing  more 
than  a dark  cloud. 

Next  morning,  when  I went  on  deck,  I was  delighted 
with  the  phenomenon  of  actual  land,  which  was  a sight  no 
less  pleasing  than  novel  to  a landsman,  who,  for  the  first 
time  in  his  life,  for  sixteen  days  in  succession,  had  con- 
templated nothing  but  the  expanse  of  waters.  It  consisted 
of  little  more  than  several  large  rocks  rising  from  the  sea  : 
two  of  the  larger  have  between  them  a narrow  channel  with 
perpendicular  faces  at  each  side  ; they  seemed  as  if  they 
had  been  originally  one,  and  tent  asunder  by  some  convul- 
sion of  nature.  An  enterprising  commodore,  whose  name 
I forget,  led  his  squadron  through  this  chasm,  to  the  aston- 
ishment of  the  nautical  world.  The  rocks  were  called  by 
the  sailors,  The  Deserters,  and  so  set  down  in  our  charts. 
I inquired  into  the  reason  of  the  odd  designation  ; some 
said  they  were  so  named  because  they  had  been  a place  of 
banishment  for  runaway  soldiers  ; others,  that  it  was  an 
appellation  figuratively  applied  to  the  rocks,  which  seemed 
to  have  deserted  from  the  island  of  Madeira  : but,  on  refer- 
ing  to  authority,  I found  they  were  noted  in  the  Portuguese 
maps  as  Mias  desertas , the  barren  islands.  This  was  an- 
other proof  of  the  propensity  of  our  nation  to  alter  the 
names  of  every  language  to  some  nonsensical  similarity  of 
sound  in  our  own.  Our  maps  are  full  of  such  mistakes. 
We  set  down  Yeni  Hissari,  or  tne  new  castles,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Dardanelles,  as  Cape  Janissary.  We  call 
the  Archipelago,  the  Arches  ; Corunna,  the  Groine  ; and 
Cape  Hoorn,  so  named  by  Le  Maire,  who  discovered  it, 
in  compliment  to  his  native  town,  we  corrupt  into  Cape 
Horn , and  it  affords  a standing  witticism  to  nautical  poetry. 

Next  morning  we  found  ourselves  lying  among  one  of 
those  archipelagoes  of  islands,  which  are  thinly  scattered 
over  the  vast  Atlantic.  The  group  consisted  of  the  Desert- 
ers, Porto  Santo,  and  Madeira.  Porto  Santo  we  distin- 
guished by  several  conical  hills  with  pointed  peaks,  like  so 
many  sugaivloaves  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  waters. 
The  hills,  however,  are  connected  by  a low  undulating 
plain,  which  we  could  perceive,  on  a nearer  approach,  was 
cultivated,  and  several  white  edifices  scattered  through  it  5 


22 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  greater  part  seemed  totally  divested  of  trees  and  verdure, 
but  was,  as  we  were  told,  one  vast  rabbit  borough,  these 
animals  having  undermined  a large  portion  of  the  vegetable 
soil.  Almost  the  only  tree  growing  on  the  island,  was  that 
which  yields  the  gum,  called  dragon’s  blood,  ( P ter o carpus 
draco ),  which  is  one  of  its  most  important  productions. 

As  this  was  the  first  land  seen  by  adventurers  setting  out 
from  the  old  in  search  of  new  worlds,  its  discovery  is  a 
remarkable  tera  in  the  progress  of  human  knowledge.  Dom 
John  I.  having  made  an  end  of  the  wars  in  Castile,  and 
u not  finding  it  convenient,”  as  the  Portuguese  historians 
have  it,  <c  to  abandon  his  subjects  to  idleness,  he  resolved 
to  employ  his  arms  against  the  avowed  enemies  of  religion.” 
He  therefore  proceeded  against  the  Moors,  and  made  a 
conquest  of  Ceuta,  in  Africa.  From  this  circumstance  an 
important  benefit  accrued.  He  was  accompanied  by  his 
active  and  enterprising  son,  Prince  Henry,  who  here  met 
and  had  an  opportunity  of  conversing  with  many  intelligent 
persons,  merchants  and  others,  who  had  seen  and  explored 
remote  regions,  and  who  in  person  had  visited  many  places, 
before  known  in  Europe  only  by  distant  rumors.  From 
their  relations,  his  curiosity  was  excited  to  a great  degree  ; 
and  on  his  return  to  Portugal,  he  retired  to  Algarves,  and 
established  an  arsenal  and  observatory,  near  Cape  St.  Vin- 
cent, from  whence  he  purposed  to  despatch  ships  of  discov- 
ery, to  explore  such  places  as  he  had  heard  accounts  of. 
Here  he  fitted  o t vessels,  and  selected  Joao  Gonsalvez  as 
the  commander  of  the  expedition.  Gonsalvez  was  distin- 
guished as  the  first  person  who  introduced  the  use  of 
artillery  into  ships,  and  was  esteemed  a captain  of  great 
knowledge  and  enterprise.  With  him  was  associated  Tris- 
tao  Vaz,  and  they  set  sail  in  the  year  1417,  to  proceed  to 
Cape  Bajador,  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  the  then  ne  plus  ultra 
of  European  discoveries.  They  were  soon,  however,  driv- 
en out  of  their  course  by  a wind  they  could  not  stem,  as 
Barros  quaintly  says, — “ because  their  ship  was  so  small, 
and  the  sea  so  great  ; ” * and  falling  upon  an  unknown 
land  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean,  they  ran  for  the  shore,  and 
took  refuge  in  the  first  harbor  that  presented  itself,  and 
hence  they  named  it  Porto  Santo , from  the  protection  it. 
afforded  their  shattered  bark.  Instead  of  prosecuting  their 
voyage,  they  returned  to  Algarves  when  they  had  refitted,. 


* For  0 navio  ser  tain  pequeno,  e q mar  tam  grossQ, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


23 


and  reported  to  their  patron  the  discovery  they  had  made. 
Prince  Henry  immediately  sent  out  colonists  and  the  fruits 
of  Portugal  ; and  in  two  years  the  island  was  a flourishing 
colony,  yielding  all  the  products  of  the  continent,  which 
were  soon  assimilated  to  the  soil  and  climate. 

It  is  a fact,  which  seems  hardly  credible  at  the  present 
day,  that  Porto  Santo  was  well  inhabited  for  some  time  be- 
fore they  attempted  to  visit  Madeira,  only  seventeen  leagues 
distant.  The  people  saw  it  before  them,  but  were  afraid  to 
venture  to  explore  a spot  which  the  credulous  and  super- 
stitious fancies  of  the  age  had  clothed  in  extraordinary  and 
mysterious  circumstances.  ££  The  vapors,”  said  Barros, 
££  sometimes  raised  by  the  humidity  of  the  soil,  and  the  mul- 
titude of  trees,  were  so  great,  that  at  one  time  it  appeared 
to  the  colonists  as  a dark  cloud,  and  at  another  as  land.” 
This  doubtful  and  visionary  appearance  of  the  coast  gave 
rise  to  the  most  extraordinary  reports,  which  are  detailed 
more  at  length  by  Alcaforedo.  ££  There  ran  a rumor  among 
the  Portuguese,  that  off.the  Island  of  Porto  Santo,  towards 
the  north-east,  there  usually  appeared  a perpetual  obscuri- 
ty, which  ahvays  extended  itself  from  the  sea  to  the  sky,  and 
never  diminished,  but  continually  appeared  in  the  same 
manner.  This  every  one  knew  who  lived  at  Porto  Santo, 
and  they  judged  it  miraculous,  if  not  impossible,  to  go  and 
return  from  the  black  cloud  ; but  they  who  should  venture, 
would  of  necessity  lose  their  lives  by  their  rashness.  This 
obscurity  was  called  an  abyss.  Some  affirmed  that  it  was 
the  mouth  of  hell,  and  were  upheld  by  the  opinion  of  divines, 
wrho  offered  to  prove,  from  argument  and  authority,  that  it 
was  so.  An  historian  asserted  that  it  was  the  island  an- 
ciently called  Cipango,  which  God  had  mercifully  created 
and  hidden  in  the  clouds,  to  protect  the  Spanish  and  Portu- 
guese bishops,  who  had  retired  thither  from  the  persecution 
of  the  Moors  and  Saracens  ; — that  it  w as  therefore  directly 
contrary  to  the  Almighty’s  pleasure  to  endeavor  to  make  a 
clearer  discovery  of  what  he  had  concealed,  and  divers  pro- 
phecies were  quoted  which  forbid,-  under  severe  penalties, 
a further  search  into  these  mysteries.” 

To  us,  where  we  then  lay,  these  early  impressions 
did  not  seem  at  all  improbable,  in  an  ignorant  age  so  ad- 
dicted to  superstitious  fears.  The  summit  of  the  island  ap- 
peared covered  with  a dark  dense  cap,  which  sometimes  de- 
scended to  the  sea,  concealing  the  outline  of  the  land  like 
one  vast  extinguisher.  It  is  highly  probable,  that  before 


24 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  island  was  inhabited  and  the  atmosphere  cleared  by 
felling  trees,  and  other  efforts  of  human  industry,  in  alter- 
ing the  quality  of  the  soil,  the  mists  and  exhalations 
were  much  more  dark  and  frequent.  At  this  day  the  whole- 
island  is  often  obscured,  and  it  is  likely  that  at  that  period 
it  was  seldom  visible. 

We  lay  all  day  hovering  between  the  islands  of  this  group, 
contemplating  the  various  phases  which  Madeira  assumed, 
and  recurring  to  the  extraordinary  circumstance  of  the  first 
impressions  it  made  on  the  mind  of  man  ; but  in  the  evening 
a breeze  sprung  up,  which  carried  us  close  in  with  it.  From 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island  runs  along  ridge  of  rocks, 
for  t6n  or  twelve  miles,  presenting  an  exceedingly  rugged 
and  bold  face  to  the  sea,  interrupted  by  chasms  and  preci- 
pices ; behind  it  rose  Madeira,  enveloped  in  dark  clouds, 
over  and  through  which  the  sun  appeared,  giving  the  most 
curious  and  picturesque  features  to  every  object.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  ridge  was  what  seemed  a perforated  rock, 
forming  a vast  arch,  through  which  the  rays  of  the  sun 
shone  and  presented  a perspective  like  the  inside  of  an  illu- 
minated cathedral  ; and  from  hence  to  the  island  was  a 
bridge  of  bold  breakers  and  rugged  rocks,  the  front  of  which, 
as  we  advanced  along,  gave  the  most  magnificent  and  vary- 
ing mass  of  light  and  shade.  Having  passed  this,  we  came 
opposite  the  west  face  of  the  island,  which  rose  before  us  in 
a grand  acclivity,  covered  with  green  woods  and  white 
villas,  as  high  as  the  dark  cloud  which  enveloped  its  summit, 
drawing  a sable  veil  across  its  countenance,  and,  like  the 
Turkish  women  at  Athens,  suffering  the  lower  features  only 
to  be  visible.  Our  breeze  now  died  away  as  the  sun  set, 
and  we  were  forced  to  remain  in  our  present  position  till 
the  morning. 

Immediately  as  the  twilight  set  in,  a large  fire  was  kind- 
led near  the  base  of  the  hill,  at  the  village  of  Santa  Cruz, 
and  suddenly  a number  of  others  blazed  out  in  succession. 
We  could  not  discern  that  they  were  lighted  in  the  houses, 
and  they  seemed  much  too  bright  for  candles,  so  we  sup- 
posed they  were  signals  spreading  over  the  country,  like 
bale  fires  or  the  fiery  cross.  As  we  were  utterly  ignorant 
of  the  state  of  affairs,  we  generally  concluded  that  the  isl- 
and was  still  in  possession  of  the  Constitutionalists,  who 
had  supposed  our  vessel  to  be  a Portuguese  frigate,  which 
indeed  she  resembled  in  her  unpainted  exterior,  and  had 
sent  forth  their  signals  to  put  the  island  on  the  alert.  In 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  25 

this  opinion  we  were  confirmed  by  a merchantman,  with 
whom  we  spoke  shortly  after.  He  had  met  a fishing  boat, 
who  informed  him,  he  might  approach  the  island  in  safety, 
as  all  was  quiet. 

As  we  slowly  advanced  next  morning,  all  our  glasses 
were  directed  to  the  shore,  but  we  could  discern  no  block- 
ading squadron,  and  we  came  to  a conclusion  that  it  had  ar- 
rived and  returned  home  re  infecta.  At  length,  however, 
we  discovered  to  the  left  of  the  town,  some  ships  lying  at 
anchor,  under  the  land,  which  we  soon  perceived  to  be  ships 
of  war  ; and  on  the  largest,  a ship  of  the  line  of  eightyfour 
guns,  the  Portuguese  admiral’s  flag  was  flying  at  the  mast 
head.  We  were  now  divided  in  opinion  as  to  what  this 
portended  ; some  of  us,  unwilling  to  abandon  an  opinion 
which  we  wished  to  be  true,  affirmed  that  the  navy  had 
joined  Dona  Maria’s  cause  and  army,  and  were  now  lying 
together  in  amicable  communion  under  the  island.  We 
soon  perceived  among  them  an  English  frigate,  the  Alliga- 
tor, and  a signal  was  hoisted  for  the  captain.  In  about  an 
hour  his  boat  was  alongside,  and  Captain  Canning  came  on 
board.  He  first  informed  us  how  matters  really  stood,  and 
that  the  island  had  surrendered  a few  days  before  without 
striking  a blow. 


CHAP.  IT. 


Land  at  Funchal. — Basaltic  Coast. — Stree  s — Carriage  of  Madeira  Wine. — Dress 
and  Appearance  of  Peasantry. — Beggars. — Markets. — Leathern  Bottles. — Grapes 
and  Wine. — Portuguese'  Coopers. — Curious  Superstition  of  Bananas. — Citron- — 
Water,  and  dangerous  Torrents. — WAoded  Mountain. — N.  S.  d5el  Monte. — Liz- 
ards . — Volcanic  Soil. — Processions. — Captain  Canning. — Premature  and  sudden 
Death. — Idle  Rumors  of  the  Cause. 

Our  boat  was  now  ready,  and  I set  out  with  a party  of 
friends  to  visit  the  island.  We  passed  the  Brazen  Point, 
so  called  because  the  face  is  formed  of  a red  copper-color- 
ed stone,  and  the  green-sward  with  which  it  is  covered  re- 
sembles an  exudation  of  verdigris.  As  we  approached, 
the  town  of  Funchal  lay  before  us  resembling  a vast  blan- 
chisserie,  the  white  patches  of  houses  spread  over  the  face 
of  the  hill,  like  linen  put  out  to  bleach.  We  were  chal- 
3 


26 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


lenged  by  a sentinel  from  a lofty  insulated  eminence,  called 
Leeir  or  Loo  Rock,  which  stood  out  in  advance  several 
hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  and  was  surmounted  with  a 
fortress  and  battery.  He  shouted  down  to  us  with  a speak- 
ing  trumpet,  to  know  who  we  were  and  what  we  wanted  ; 
and  on  answering,  we  were  directed  round  to  the  officers 
of  health,  whom  we  now  saw  approaching  in  a country  boat. 
They  came  alongside,  but  remained  at  a short  distance  be- 
yond the  supposed  influence  of  infection,  while  they  interro- 
gated us  as  to  what  passengers  we  had  on  board,  and  wheth- 
er there  were  any  sick.  The  answers  they  wrote  carefully 
down,  annexing,  that  we  u had  pledged  our  word  and  hon- 
or for  the  truth  of  them.”  They  all  spoke  English  remark- 
ably well. 

The  shore  where  we  were  about  to  land  had  a very  sin- 
gular appearance  ; the  face  of  the  rock  was  columnar,  form- 
ed of  regular  basaltic  pillars,  some  perfectly  straight  and 
erect,  but  others  crooked  and  bent,  as  if  the  incumbent 
mass  above  had  pressed  on  them  while  yet  they  were  soft, 
and  they  had  yielded  to  the  weight,  like  those  of  Boshaia  at 
Staffa,  and  similar  ones  at  the  Giant’s  Causeway.  The 
shore  was  strewed  with  large  joints,  having  convex  and  con- 
cave surfaces,  and  originally  pentagonal  and  hexagonal 
sides,  but  the  angles  were  generally  washed  and  rubbed  off 
by  constant  attrition  in  the  flow  and  reflux  of  the  tide.  In 
some  places  the  pillars  reposed  on  strata  of  red  ochre,  which 
had  a very  bright  and  vivid  color. 

As  there  was  no  breakwater  or  pier  yet  erected,  we  were 
obliged  to  pass  into  one  of  the  numerous  shore  boats  that 
were  plying  about,  which  the  boatmen  shoved  through  the 
surf,  and  soon  had  us  high  and  dry  on  the  beach.  Besides 
the  fortress  we  had  seen  on  the  top  of  the  rock,  the  landing 
place  is  commanded  by  a long  low  fort,  many  of  whose  em- 
brasures were  little  above  the  level  of  the  water  ; they  were 
fronted  with  basalt,  and  some  of  the  shelving  faces  of  the 
columns  were  adapted  to  the  expanding  sides  of  the  aper- 
ture, like  those  of  Dunluce  Castle,  at  the  Giant’s  Cause- 
way. We  entered  the  city  from  the  dirty  beach  by  a town 
gate,  which  was  evidently  more  for  show  than  use,  and 
climbed  up  several  very  steep  streets  to  the  house  of  Mr, 
Veitch,  the  English  consul. 

The  residence  was  entered  through  a long  passage,  the 
front  next  the  street  having  a very  ruinous  appearance,  as 
if  it  was  the  dilapidated  remains  of  an  old  house.  Beyond 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


27 


was  a garden  filled  with  palms,  bananas,  and  other  tropical 
trees,  and  in  the  centre  was  the  house,  dark,  cool,  and  sha- 
ded, with  all  the  blinds  closed  up.  The  consul  was  at 
breakfast,  and  we  disturbed  his  family,  the  ladies  of  which 
disappeared  ; but  in  a short  time  the  table  was  again  re- 
plenished, and  we  had  a plentiful  breakfast  of  tea,  cold 
roast  mutton,  grapes,  and  figs.  The  consul  confirmed 
Captain  Canning’s  account  of  the  impotent  resistance  made 
by  the  Constitutionalists.  Behind  our  chairs  sat  three  or 
four  men,  who  seemed  very  dejected  ; one  of  them  was 
particularly  so.  They  had  been  engaged,  we  understood, 
in  different  ways  in  the  unfortunate  affairs  of  the  Constitu- 
tionalists, and  were  now  in  a temporary  asylum,  in  daily 
apprehension  of  being  sought  after.  One  of  them  had  been 
an  officer  of  a corps,  and  seemed  most  anxious  to  avail  him- 
self of  any  opportunity  to  leave  the  island. 

The  consul  now  arrayed  himself  in  his  uniform  of  blue 
cloth,  embroidered  with  broad  gold  lace,  and  proceeded  to 
wait  on  his  Excellency  on  board  the  frigate  ; and  we  went 
through  the  town,  to  see  sights.  The  first  remarkable  ob- 
ject was  a lady  carried  in  a kind  of  sedan  chair.  This  is  a 
sort  of  cage  slung  on  a pole,  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  two 
men,  from  whence  it  hung  down  within  two  inches  of  the 
ground,  like  a hale  of  goods  on  slings  between  two  porters, 
frequently  striking  against  any  projecting  .stone  in  the 
pavement.  The  lady  sat  at  the  bottom,  with  her  knees 
drawn  up,  and  was  covered  over  with  a canopy  of  some  em- 
broidered stuff,  pendant  from  the  top  of  the  cage,  which  she 
could  place  before  her  so  as  to  hide  her  face  when  she 
pleased.  We  met  several  of  these  machines,  but  none  of 
the  inmates  chose  to  resort  to  this  precaution.  This  very 
odd-looking  carriage,  used  by  the  first  people  in  the  island, 
is  certainly  not  a very  dignified  mode  of  conveyance — a 
lady  sitting  squat,  in  a very  uneasy  and  awkward  position, 
at  the  bottom  of  a cage,  within  a few  inches  of  a dirty  street, 
and  looked  down  on  by  every  passenger. 

The  streets  are  exceedingly  steep,  as  they  all  run  up  the 
side  of  the  hill,  and  are  paved  with  small  stones  set  edge- 
ways in  the  ground,  which  are  not  only  very  sharp,  but  ve- 
ry slippery  to  walk  on.  Hence  they  are  painfully  labori- 
ous to  climb  up,  and  dangerous  to  ride  down.  We  saw 
some  Spanish  horses  drive  very  hard  down  one  of  them,  and 
expected  every  moment  that  they  and  their  riders  would  be 
precipitated  ; but,  with  wonderful  sagacity,  the  horses  set 


28 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


their  hind  against  their  fore  feet,  whenever  they  arrived 
at  apart  unusually  steep,  and  without  further  effort  frequent- 
ly slided  down  the  inclined  plane,  many  yards  at  a time,  by 
the  velocity  they  had  acquired.  The  burdens  are  drawn 
up  by  a small  breed  of  bullocks,  which  are  universally  used 
for  draught.  They  are  yoked  two  a-breast,  and  a slide  capa- 
ble of  holding  a cask  of  wine  is  attached  by  cords  ; a peas- 
ant, with  a long  pole  and  a goad  at  the  end  of  it,  leads  them 
by  a cord  passed  through  a perforation  in  the  tip  of  one  of 
their  horns,  and  another  walks  beside  the  machine  with  a 
large  rag  of  cloth  steeped  in  water  ; this  he  occasionally 
throws  under  the  slide,  which  is  thus  kept  wet  by  passing 
over  it,  and  it  glides  smoothly  and  evenly  along.  The  cat- 
tle are  a very  small  mountain  breed,  of  a mouse-colored 
brown.  They  are  encouraged  by  the  long  drawling  and  con- 
tinued cries  of  the  driver,  and  seem  very  gentle  and  trac- 
table. 

The  peasantry  are  robust,  but  exceedingly  dark  in  their 
color,  and  their  breasts,  and  other  parts  exposed  to  the  sun, 
are  nearly  as  black  as  those  of  a negro.  This  is  supposed 
to  arise  from  the  Moorish  origin  of  many  of  them  who  came 
from  Algarves.  They  are  generally  corpulent,  and  wear 
white  cotton  shirts,  which,  among  the  poorest  of  them, 
seemed  as  white  as  snow.  I have  remark ed?  that  there 
is  something  in  the  air  of  southern  climates,  which  is  favor- 
able to  the  process  of  bleaching.  I have  never  seen  cotton 
or  lineti  reduced,  by  repeated  washing,  to  that  dingy  yellow 
so  common  in  our  cold  and  foggy  atmosphere  ; the  most 
ragged  worn  fragment  is  as  white  as  the  new  web  of  cloth. 
Their  drawers  are  short,  and  their  boots  rise  half  way  up 
their  legs,  leaving  an  interval  of  dark  naked  skin  up  to  the 
knee.  Every  man  has  his  jacket  thrown  over  his  shoulders, 
and  carries  in  his  hand  a long  pole.  But  the  most  remark- 
able part  of  his  dress  is  a small  conical  cap  of  blue  cloth, 
lined  with  red  ; this  scarcely  fits  on  the  top  of  the  crown  ; 
a sharp  spike  rises  from  the  summit,  and  at  the  sides  are 
two  little  red  claws,  by  which  it  is  seized  and  drawn  down 
as  far  as  it  will  go  on  the  head.  This  cap  is  a singular  and 
characteristic  thing,  peculiar,  I am  told,  to  the  people  of 
Madeira,  and  worn  by  the  women  as  well  as  by  the  men  : I 
saw  them  take  it  offby  the  point,  to  salute  any  friend  they 
met,  always  adding  to  the  salutation,  “God  prosper  you.” 
The  women  are  remarkably  plain  .and  sallow,  and  when  a 
little  advanced  in  life,  singularly  ugly  and  repulsive.  Their 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


29 


* 

faces  have  the  shape  and  character  of  those  of  baboons, 
projecting  jaws,  retiring  foreheads,  and  high  cheek-bones  ; 
their  breasts  are  long  and  flabby,  and  frequently  hang  down 
to  an  extraordinary  length,  and  these  natural  deformities 
are  increased  by  a squalid  negligence  of  dress.  The  young- 
er are  more  attractive,  and  attentive  to  their  persons.  They 
have  generally  coal-black  hair,  which  they  tie  in  a club  be- 
hind, close  to  their  heads,  leaving  two  large  locks  on  their 
cheeks.  Their  heads  are  covered  either  with  the  pointed 
caps  just  described,  or  with  beaver  hats,  with  a broad  band 
and  buckle,  in  which  is  stuck  an  ostrich  or  other  feather  5 a 
pellerine,  or  short  cloth  mantle,  covers  their  neck,  scarcely 
reaching  beyond  their  shoulders,  and  their  gowns  are  dark 
cotton.  Some  of  these  girls  were  so  comely,  that  it  is  hard- 
ly conceivable  how  they  could  degenerate  into  such  objects 
as  their  mothers.  They  are  very  prolific,  and  almost  every 
married  woman  has  from  six  to  twelve  children. 

One  of  the  streets  we  passed  through  was  full  of  beggars, 
who  lay  along  the  walls  in  the  sun  like  the  Lazzaroni  of  Na- 
ples, but  were  very  inferior  to  that  robust  race.  They  were 
of  different  ages  and  sexes,  and  some  of  them  not  badly 
clothed.  It  is  usual  on  one  day  of  the  week  to  distribute 
alms  at  different  houses,  and  all  these  idlers  were  collected 
hereTor  the  purpose.  These  useless  members,  which  the 
better  part  of  the  community  now  consider  a perfect  nui- 
sance, were  about  to  be  more  profitably  disposed  of.  Joao 
Carvalhal,  the  most  opulent  man  on  the  island,  had  planned 
a workhouse,  to  which  they  were  all  to  be  sent,  and  there 
employed,  as  in  England,  in  some  occupation  of  industry. — 
But  this  enlightened  and  benevolent  man  was  a constitution-^ 
alist — compelled  to  abandon  his  property  and  his  plans  for 
the  improvement  of  the  island,  and  is  now  a fugitive  in  Lon- 
don. 

It  was  Saturday,  and  market  day  ; and  we  walked  through 
the  market-place,  to  see  the  produce  of  the  country  in  the 
commodities  exposed  for  sale.  They  principally  consisted 
of  fruits  ; figs  black  and  green,  bananas  in  bunches,  apples, 
pears,  large  red  onions,  and  peaches ; these  last  were  as 
hard  as  stones,  and  are  always  brought  to  market  in  that  un- 
ripe state,  in  which  the  people  prefer  them.  There  were 
venders  of  grapes  of  several  qualities,  particularly  a large, 
dark  brown,  fleshy  fruit,  which  we  cultivated  in  the  palace 
garden  at  Constantinople  ; and  a small  dark  one,  called  tin- 
to , the  clustersof  which  grow  to  such  a size,  I was  informed, 
3* 


30 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


as  to  weigh, 201bs.  But  I was  particularly  struck  with  the 
abundance  of  fine  potatoes,  which  were  exceedingly  good, 
and  plenty  in  the  island.  Grapes  and  potatoes  rarely  thrive 
together  ; the  heat  and  dryness  necessary  to  mature  the  one? 
are  very  inimical  to  the  other  ; but  in  this  fertile  and  favor- 
ed island,  where  every  stratum  of  elevation  gives  a different 
soil  and  climate,  all  plants  and  fruits  grow  up  and  prosper 
together.  Among  the  roots  which  I saw  in  the  market,  was 
that  of  the  arum,  ( Caladium  esculentum)  the  only  esculent 
species  of  that  very  acrid  tribe  ; and  even  this  is  so  much 
so,  that  if  tasted  when  raw,  it  immediately  blisters  the  mouth. 
The  acrid  particles,  however,  are  volatile,  and  dissipated  by 
heat  in  the  process  of  boiling  or  baking.  I saw  it  growing  in 
a garden  outside  the  town,  where  a large  space  of  ground 
was  covered  with  it.  The  leaf  was  larger  and  less  pointed 
than  that  of  the  A.  maculatum , but  it  had  all  the  lurid  and 
forbidding  aspect  of  our  poisonous,  but  common,  cuckoo-pint. 
Not  only  the  tuberous  root,  but  the  leaves  are  eaten,  and 
called  Indian  kale. 

Among  the  articles  of  apparel  for  sale  were  yellow  shoes 
of  tanned  unblacked  leather,  of  goats’  skin,  resembling  yel- 
low morocco,  and  generally  used  in  the  island.  Another 
manufacture  of  leather  was  goats’  and  calves’  skins,  dressed 
whole  and  inflated,  preserving  the  shape  and  size  of  the. 
animal,  and  intended  to  carry  water  and  wine.  They  were 
generally  borne  along  for  sale  by  boys,  who  swing  them 
about  on  the  tops  of  poles.  Here,  as  well  as  in  the  east, 
the  mode  of  preserving  wine  at  this  day  is  the  same  as  in 
the  time  of  the  apostles,  and  explains  the  allusion  of  the 
Evangelist.*  % 

They  make  at  Madeira  two  kinds  of  wine,  white  and 
red  ; the  first  is  too  well  known  to  require  description.  It 
is  the  produce  of  a grape  supposed  to  have  been  originally 
brought  from  Cyprus,  and  planted  on  the  island  by  Prince 
Henry  on  its  first  discovery.  But  the  change  of  soil  and 
climate  has  altogether  altered  its  qualities,  for  it  resembles 
modern  Cyprus  wine  in  nothing  but  color.  The  latter  is 
like  Tenedos  wine  of  the  Archipelago,  stronger  than  claret, 
but  not  so  strong  as  port.  The  fruit  producing  it  is  the 
small  dark  grape  we  saw  in  the  market  ; it  leaves  a deep 
stain  on  paper,  or  any  other  substance  which  imbibes  the 

* “ Neither  do  men  put  new  wine  into  old  bottles,  lest  the  bottles 
break,”  Matt.  ix.  17.  The  word  in  the  original  is  ctswo; , which  lite- 
rally signifies  an  inflated  skin. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


31 


juice,  and  is  for  that  reason  called  tinio.  The  soil  producing 
the  best  wines  is  the  poorest  and  most  stony,  and  in  that 
4 respect  resembles  some  of  the  vineyards  of  the  Rhine,  where 
the  vine  grows  among  dry  shingles,  with  scarcely  a particle 
of  mould.  The  vintage  is  in  September,  and  was  just  com- 
menced when  we  arrived.  The  grapes  are  thrown  into  a 
vat,  and  pressed  out  by  the  feet  of  bare-legged  peasants, 
who  get  in  and  trample  on  them,  where  they  are  seen  all 
stained  with  the  red  juice,  affording  another  exemplification 
of  scriptural  allusion.*  The  wine  does  not  mature  till 
after  a certain  age,  and  is  generally  sent  on  a voyage  round 
the  world  to  please  our  English  palates.  It  is  distinguish- 
ed, like  claret,  by  degrees  of  excellence,  according  to  the 
estate  on  which  it  is  made.  Negro  Mole,  Verdelha,  and 
Buse  are  the  most  celebrated.  About  30,000  pipes  are 
annually  produced. 

The  Portuguese  are  said  to  be  expert  coopers,  and  we  saw 
instances  of  it.  Some  wine  was  purchased  by  our  purser 
for  sea  store,  and  the  coopers  were  casing  the  casks  in  the 
street,  under  the  window  of  the  merchants’  store  where  it 
was  bought.  The  staves  were  jointed,  bottomed,  and 
hooped  below  with  great  expedition.  The  open  space  above 
was  then  inverted  on  the  wine  cask,  and  reinverted,  with  it 
inside.  Shavings  were  crammed  into  the  space  between,  to 
keep  all  tight;  the  open  staves  were  circled  with  iron  hoops, 
the  top  laid  on,  and  when  the  last  iron  hoop  was  driven  home, 
all  the  parts  closed  up  with  the  most  exact  correspondence  ; 
and  the  whole  large  cask  was  jointed,  put  together,  and 
finished  in  the  completest  manner,  while  we  were  looking 
on,  with  a speed  and  dexterity  creditable  to  the  workmen. 

Among  our  sea  store  were  bananas  and  citrons,  which,  for 
the  first  time,  I saw  in  their  native  state.  The  banana  is  of 
two  kinds,  differing  a little  in  shape  and  size,  (Musa  sapien- 
tum , and  musa  paradisica ).  Its  fructification  is  as  perfect  an 
exemplification  of  the  sexual  system  as  that  of  the  palm. 
The  fruit  is  produced  on  a large  spiral  branch,  issuing  from 
the  side  of  the  stem  of  the  tree.  Over  this  branch  are  sus- 
pended the  male  blossoms,  on  a long  bending  footstalk,  con- 
sisting of  several  series  of  stamina,  corresponding  with  the 
number  of  fruit  on  the  branch  below.  Each  series  is  cov- 
ered with  a dark  purple  petal.  As  the  fruit  ripens,  the  foot- 

* “ Wherefore  art  thou  red  in  thine  apparel,  and  thy  garments  like 
him  that  treadeth  in  the  wine  vat?  ” Isaiah  lxiii.  2. 


82 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


stalk  lengthens,  the  lower  petal  opens  and  exposes  the 
stamina,  which  impregnate  the  corresponding  fruit,  and  then 
drop  off.  These  are  succeeded  by  the  next,  and  the  pro- 
cess goes  on  till  the  whole  branch  is  impregnated.  When 
the  last  petal  with  its  stamina  falls  away,  this  is  supposed  to 
be  complete,  and  then  the  fruit  is  ripe  for  pulling.  The 
whole  branch  of  bananas  in  this  state  is  called  cacheio , and 
sells  for  about  ten  vintems,  or  fifteen  pence.  The  fruit  is 
at  first  very  crude,  and  filled  with  a milky  and  rather  acrid 
juice  •,  but  when  hung  up  for  some  time  in  vendas  or  shops,  it 
gradually  mellows  and  ripens.  . It  always,  however,  retains 
a heavy  and  disagreeable  smell,  resembling  those  strong 
and  repulsive  vegetable  odors,  which  often  Warn  you  that 
the  plant  or  fruit  is  deleterious.  This  flavor  seems  to 
reside  in  the  skin,  which  is  pulled  down  at  each  side, 
leaving  the  esculent  part  of  the  fruit  covered  with  a white 
downy  substance,  twice  the  size  of  a man’s  thumb.  It  is 
the  great  food  of  the  laboring  classes,  particularly  of  the 
negroes  of  Brazil,  and  is  considered  exceedingly  wholesome 
and  nutritious.  Among  the  higher  ranks,  it  is  sometimes 
served  up  at  the  dessert,  and  eaten  with  cheese,  which 
gives  a certain  sapidity  to  its  sweet  but  mawkish  taste. 
When  cut  transversely,  the  division  of  the  seed  forms  the 
sign  of  the  cross  ; and  the  Portuguese  think  it  a profanation 
so  to  divide  it,  because  it  severs  in  two  this  sacred  emblem  ; 
they  therefore  cut  the  fruit  obliquely,  so  that  the  cross 
may  not  be  seen.  A variety  of  it,  called  banana  da  terra, 
or  plantain,  is  always  roasted  and  eaten  with  sugar.  When 
smoke-dried,  it  acquires  a firm  consistence,  and  keeps  for 
a long  time.  The  tree  on  which  it  grows  is  conspicuous 
by  its  immense  leaves,  and  it  is  that  which  gives  the  most 
peculiar  and  distinctive  character  to  a tropical  landscape. 
It  is  most  abundant  in  the  lower  and  warmer  situations  of 
the  country,  but  so  delicate,  that  it  cannot  be  assimilated 
to  the  higher  and  more  temperate  regions.  Several  soft 
and  succulent  stems  shoot  out  from  the  same  root  ; when 
one  has  borne  fruit,  it  is  cut  down,  and  succeeded  by 
another. 

The  citron  resembles  a very  large  lemon  in  exterior. 
The  rind,  however,  is  exceedingly  thick,  and  the  interior  is 
solid  and  fleshy,  not  juicy  and  pulpy,  like  the  lemon  varie- 
ty. It  was  first  brought  from  Media,  in  the  east,  and  hence 
its  botanical  name,  ( Citrus  meclica).  It  has  now,  however, 
travelled  to  the  most  distant  parts  of  the  western  world.  I 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


33 


saw  in  a large  shed  behind  a shop  the  process  of  its  prepa- 
ration : — The  fruit  was  first  split  and  boiled,  and  steeped  in 
salt  water  for  a certain  number  of  days.  It  was  then  final- 
ly boiled  in  sirup,  which  everywhere  penetrated  its  pores, 
and  it  came  out  of  the  caldron  quite  green  and  transparent, 
in  which  state  we  purchased  it. 

The  houses  of  the  town  are  generally  large  and  strong, 
with  long  blocks  of  hewn  stone,  ornamented  with  mouldings, 
round  the  doors  and  window  cases  ; they  look,  however,  ex- 
ceedingly neglected  and  out  of  repair,  and  though  full  of 
inhabitants,  resembled  the  ruins  of  good  edifices,  that  had 
been  deserted.  Frequently  a large  building,  with  a fine  ex- 
terior of  hewn  stone,  was  without  roof  or  floors,  and  the 
lower  part  occupied  by  sheds  and  shops  ; and  there  seemed, 
on  the  whole,  a total  absence  or  disregard  of  that  attention 
to  neatness  and  comfort  which  characterizes  an  English 
town. 

There  was  one  circumstance,  however,  in  which  it  pos- 
sessed an  eminent  advantage,  and  that  is,  the  abundance, 
purity,  and  excellence  of  its  water.  This  fluid,  generated 
by  the  clouds  which  constantly  brood  over  the  summit  of  the 
island,  sometimes  descends  in  immense  and  dangerous  tor- 
rents, rolling  down  huge  basaltic  pillars,  detached  from  the 
rocks  above,  and  carrying  with  it  the  houses  which  stood  in 
the  way  of  its  sweeping  inundation.  One  of  them  formed  a 
broad  bed  through  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  was  the 
avenue  through  which  much  mischief  was  periodically  in- 
flicted on  the  inhabitants,  particularly  in  October,  1803, 
when  some  streets  were  swept  away,  and  about  seven  hun- 
dred persons  drowned.  To  obviate  similar  accidents,  two 
massive  walls  have  been  built  on  each  side  of  the  bed  of  the 
torrent,  running  a considerable  way  up  the  sides  of  the 
mountain,  beyond  the  extremity  of  the  town  ; and  through 
this  the  greater  part  of  the  water  discharged  from  the  clouds, 
is  conducted  safely  to  the  sea.  This  fine  and  useful  work 
is  crossed  by  several  bridges,  and  on  one  side,  for  a con- 
siderable distance,  is  planted  with  platanus  :md  other  trees, 
forming  a pleasant  walk.  "W  hile  the  town  is  thus  secured 
against  the  effects  of  a great  inundation,  the  streams  of  sev- 
eral smaller  rills  are  led  in  different  directions  through  the 
streets,  and  there  is  a perennial  current  of  pure  and  limpid 
water  continually  gurgling  down  every  avenue,  a source  at 
once  of  health,  cleanliness,  and  beauty,  in  the  driest  and 
hottest  seasons.  I have  never,  seen  a town  so  favored^ 
but  Brusa,  in  Asia  Minor,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Olympus, 


34 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


We  now  proceeded  up  one  of  the  steep  streets,  and  af- 
ter climbing,  with  much  labor,  under  a burning  sun,  we 
arrived  at  the  extremity  of  the  town,  and  had  a full  view  of 
the  face  of  the  mountain  above,  the  city  below,  and  the  sea 
beyond  it  ; the  whole  forming  a singularly  beautiful  pros- 
pect. Higher  up,  the  summit  of  the  mountain  was  riven  into 
several  deep  chasms,  the  sides  of  which  were  clothed  with 
wood;  the  wood  consisted  of  chestnut,  walnut  and  pines, 
among  which  were  scattered  orange,  lemon,  the  laurel  which 
produces  camphor,  and  the  palm  which  yields  the  gum  call- 
ed dragon’s  blood.  Other  palms  of  great  size  spread  their 
feathery  fronds  above  the  lower  vegetation  ; we  were  told 
they  yielded  no  fruit,  but  were  not  the  less  important,  as 
they  were  used  as  an  indispensable  badge  of  Palm  Sunday, 
and  borne  by  every  person  on  that  day  in  large  branches, 
whence  the  day  is  so  properly  called  Dominigo  de  Ramos. 
Among  the  original  trees  of  the  island  were  cedars  of  a 
magnificent  size,  but  they  have  become  very  scarce.  Above 
the  woods  was  raised  a canopy  of  dark  dense  mist,  veiling 
the  highest  ridges,  and  descending  into  the  chasms  with  an 
infinite  variety  of  light  and  shade.  On  the  confines  of 
darkness  stood  the  convent  ofNossa  Senhora  d’el  Monte, 
the  highest  inhabited  place  on  this  side  the  mountain.  It 
was  situated  on  an  eminence  between  two  deep  ravines, 
embosomed  in  magnificent  trees  ; presenting,  with  its  white 
turrets  and  battlements,  issuing  from  the  dark  mist,  a very 
striking  object.  Scattered  all  round  it  were  the  quintas  or 
country  seats  of  the  more  respectable  merchants.  They 
are  called  quintas  because  they  originally  reserved  one 
fifth  part  of  the  produce  as  rent  to  the  landlord.  These 
covered  all  the  face  of  the  mountain  at  different  elevations, 
and  were  resorted  to  by  the  inhabitants  of  Funchal,  when 
their  business  in  the  town  below  was  concluded. 

In  the  windows  and  verandas  were  goldfinches  and  ca- 
nary birds,  which  were  found  on  the  island  in  great  abun- 
dance when  first  discovered.  But  of  all  the  aborigines, 
the  lizard  tribe  was  the  most  numerous  ; we  saw  them  every- 
where of  different  sizes  and  colors  ; all  the  dry  walls  were 
alive  with  them,  peeping  from  every  aperture  and  over 
every  angle,  with  their  bright  and  intelligent  eyes.  We 
were  sometimes  attracted  by  the  rustling  of  leaves,  and  per- 
ceived it  was  occasioned  by  the  beautitul  green  iizard3 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


35 


which  Horace  describes  as  producing  the  same  effect  in 
Italy,  and  startling  his  timid  mistress.* 

The  soil  of  the  country  was  a rich  reddish  earth,  mixed 
with  lava,  pumice,  and  vitrified  scoria,  which  was  seen  every- 
where covering  basalt  or  whinstone,  called  by  the  natives 
pedra  viva.  Some  huge  fragments  of  this  stone,  still  pre- 
serving their  ordinate  angular  form,  appeared  in  the  beds 
of  the  torrents,  but  more  generally  the  sharpness  was  round- 
ed off  by  rolling  and  attrition.  At  some  distance,  at  An- 
tonio da  Serra,  was  the  huge  basin  called  the  Crater,  three 
quarters  of  a mile  in  circumference,  once  the  outlet  of  in- 
flammable matter,  indicating,  with  other  decided  marks,  the 
volcanic  origin  of  the  island. 

Returning  again  into  the  town,  we  heard  the  bells  of 
several  churches  and  convents  ringing  a merry  peal,  and 
everywhere  around  us  the  explosion  of  great  guns.  We 
saw,  planted  in  the  front  of  one  convent,  a number  of  can- 
nons, made  of  cut-down  gun-barrels,  which  several  boys 
were  discharging  in  succession  ; while  flags  were  hoisting 
and  flying  in  all  directions.  This  we  heard  was  the  cere- 
mony of  the  eve  of  a festival,  which  was  to  take  place  next 
day,  with  a grand  procession  up  to  the  church  of  Senhora 
d’el  Monte,  to  return  thanks  for  the  deliverance  of  the  isl- 
land  from  the  anathematized  Constitutionalists  ; and  the 
lights  we  had  seen  blazing  the  evening  before,  were  not 
the  signals  of  those  victorious  men,  as  we  supposed,  but 
preparatory  indications  of  the  approaching  festival  in  hon- 
or of  their  total  defeat. 

These  processions  to  our  Lady  of  the  Mount  take  place 
on  all  occasions,  from  the  exceeding  sanctity  of  her  shrine 
and  image,  in  this  place.  When  the  island  was  first  dis- 
covered, a statue  was  found  on  the  mountain  of  this  unin- 
habited island,  and  must,  therefore,  have  been  brought  not 
by  human  hands.  The  convent  was  built  on  the  spot,  and 
the  statue  enshrined  placed  over  the  high  altar  of  the  chap- 
el. On  all  occasions  of  public  calamity  she  is  carried  out 
to  arrest  its  progress,  and  was  of  singular  service  on  the 
awful  day  of  the  inundation,  which  would  have  drowned  the 
whole  island  had  she  not  appeared  ; but  it  instantly  stopped 
as  soon  as  her  image  was  presented  to  it.  When  she  does 
not  go  abroad,  pilgrimages  of  people  are  continually  ascend- 

* 11 Virides  rubum 

Dimovere  lacerte.”— Ode  xxiii.  lib.  1. 


36 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ing  to  visit  her  at  home.  Sailors  are  particularly  atten- 
tive to  this  duty  : whole  crews  are  often  found  begging  in 
the  streets  below,  and  are  then  seen,  headed  h y their  cap- 
tain, climbing  up  the  hill  with  the  offerings  they  have  col- 
lected. 

We  returned  from  our  excursion  to  dine  with  Mr.  Borrit, 
an  English  merchant,  a pleasing  and  intelligent  gentleman, 
from  whom  we  obtained  much  local  information,  particularly 
on  the  events  which  had  recently  occurred.  In  the  evening 
we  sent  on  board  nine  bullocks,  with  abundance  of  water, 
wine,  and  fruits,  and  then  proceeded  on  board  ourselves,  in 
a shore  boat.  It  had  a keel,  bent  up  and  curling  over  the 
bow,  and  bound  by  a stay,  like  the  bowsprit  of  a ship.  It 
was  high  arid  dry  on  the  beach  when  we  all  got  into  it ; it 
was  then  launched  a considerable  way  through  the  shingles 
and  surf,  and  in  a short  time  we  were  on  board  our  frigate, 
which  was  standing  on  and  off  to  receive  us,  and  before 
dark  we  were  again  on  our  way. 

The  last  person  who  left  our  ship  was  Captain  Canning, 
and  we  took  final  leave  of  this  fine  young  man,  whom  we 
were  doomed  never  to  see  again.  He  was  the  son  of  the 
late  minister,  and  though  engaged  in  a totally  different 
sphere  of  life,  had  much  of  the  talent  and  vivacity  of  his  fa- 
ther. He  early  obtained  the  command  of  a ship  of  war, 
and  he  not  only  appeared,  but  I believe  he  really  was,  the 
youngest  captain  known  in  his  Majesty’s  navy.  He  was 
appointed  lieutenant  in  February,  1823  ; commander  in 
1825  ; and  post-captain  in  1826  ; thus  rising  from  midship- 
man to  his  high  station  in  four  years.  He  was  tall  and 
slender,  with  light  hair,  and  a fair  complexion,  and  had  the 
youthful  look  and  air  of  a midshipman  who  had  just  passed 
for  lieutenant  ; and  his  good-humored  and  unaffected  man- 
ners were  in  keeping  with  his  appearance.  He  also  inform- 
ed us  of  the  incidents  which  occurred  on  the  arrival  of  the 
Portuguese  squadron  to  the  coast,  of  which  he  was  a spec- 
tator. We  soon  afterwards  heard  at  Rio  of  his  premature 
death.  He  was  highly  popular  with  every  one  at  Madeira, 
particularly  with  the  English,  who  greatly  sought  his  society. 
He  was  one  day  engaged  to  dine  at  Mr.  James  Gordon’s, 
whose  quinta  was  about  a mile  and  a half  from  Funchal. 
He  had  heated  himself  by  violent  exercise  at  rackets,  and 
when  he  proceeded  to  Mr.  Gordon’s  house,  he  entered  the 
room  which  he  used  to  occupy,  and  having  put  on  his  morn- 
ing gown,  he  went  down  to  a large  tank  in  the  grounds, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


37 


where  he  undressed  himself,  and  plunging  in,  he  sank  never 
more  to  rise  with  life.  Having  waited  dinner  for  some  time, 
Mr.  Gordon  preceeded  in  search  of  him,  and  coming  to  the 
tank,  he  found  his  clothes  on  the  edge.  A young  man  was 
immediately  called,  who  was  an  expert  swimmer  ; and  he, 
having  dived  down  opposite  to  where  his  clothes  lay,  dis- 
covered his  body  at  the  bottom,  in  about  fifteen  feet  of  wa- 
ter ; it  was  lying  in  a bent  position,  with  the  head  resting 
on  the  knees.  A cord  was  immediately  let  down,  and  be- 
ing fastened  to  his  arm,  the  body  was  drawn  up  ; but  the 
spark  of  life  seemed  totally  extinct,  as  it  was  supposed  he 
had  been  half  an  hour  in  the  water.  Expresses,  however, 
were  instantly  despatched  for  medical  attendance,  and  it 
was  found  extremely  difficult  to  procure  it,  in  the  moment 
of  emergency.  It  happened  that  all  the  Portuguese  physi- 
cians were  implicated  as  Constitutionalists,  and  had  either 
escaped  or  were  incarcerated.  Application  was  immediate- 
ly made  to  the  governor  to  permit  two  of  the  most  eminent 
who  were  in  prison  to  proceed  to  the  place  ; but  the  gov- 
ernor refused  to  liberate  them  ; at  length,  at  the  pressing' 
instance  of  the  English,  and  a sufficient  security  being  giv- 
en for  their  immediate  return,  they  were  suffered  to  go  with 
a guard.  It  was  now,  however,  too  late,  the  time  when  it 
might  have  been  possible  to  restore  suspended  animation 
was  wasted,  and  all  means  and  appliances  were  useless. 

The  death  of  this  fine  young  man,  in  the  prime  of  life, 
and  the  vigor  of  health,  so  sudden,  and  as  some  seem  to 
say,  so  extraordinary,  excited  in  the  island  a strong  sensa- 
tion. There  were  not  wanting  of  one  party,  who  affirmed 
it  was  a judgment  visited  on  him  for  favoring  the  escape  of 
so  many  offenders  ; and  of  the  other,  who  affected  to  say 
there  was  something  mysterious  and  suspicious  in  the  man- 
ner of  it,  as  if  he  had  been  struck  by  some  unknown  hand 
while  in  the  water,  as  I myself  have  heard  it  insinuated  ; 
but  nothing  can  be  more  unfounded  than  such  an  idle  ru- 
mor ; unfortunately,  the  cause  of  his  death  is  too  common 
— apoplexy,  arising  from  collapse,  occasioned  by  sudden 
and  violent  change  of  temperature  in  high  excitement.  In- 
stances occur  every  day  of  people  incautiously  rushing  into 
a cold  bath,  when  violently  heated  by  exercise,  and  sinking 
never  to  rise  again  ; and  to  a case  of  this  kind,  I was  my- 
self a witness.  A soldier  had  just  returned  from  a review, 
on  a hot  day,  and  the  moment  he  was  dismissed,  he  stripped 
himself,  and  I saw  him  plunge  into  the  river,  close  by  the 


38 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


parade — he  never  re-appeared,  till  his  lifeless  body  was 
brought  up  by  a drag,  which  was  procured  for  the  purpose. 
He  was  a very  strong  athletic  young  man,  and  a remarka- 
bly good  swimmer. 


CHAP.  III. 


Madeira  and  Porto  Santo,  the  Fortunate  Islands. — Discovery  in  modern  Times.— — 
Alcaforedo’s  Account  of  Macham. — Reasons  for  and  against  its  Authenticity.- — 
Wines  from  Cyprus  and  Sugar  Canes  from  Sicily,  introduced.- — English  Resi- 
dents.— Former  Intolerance  of  Islanders. — Constitutional  Principles,  and  first  Preset 
sent  from  England. — Fluctuation  of  Politics. — General  Valdez  assumes  the  Com- 
mand.— Military  Force.— Strange  Project  to  excite  the  People  in  favor  of  Dora 
Miguel. — Valdez  and  his  Friends  declare  themselves.— Ceremonies  and  Rejoicing, 

Having  had  here  and  elsewhere  many  opportunities  of 
inquiring  int  > the  affairs  of  the  Constitutionalists,  I shall 
detail  to  you  some  of  the  circumstances  attending  the  un- 
fortunate issue  of  their  attempted  defence  ; premising  a few 
particulars  of  the  past  and  present  state  of  the  island. 

The  ancients  took  much  of  their  information  of  the  islands 
off  the  coast  of  Africa,  from  the  real  or  supposed  voyage  of 
Hanno,  the  Carthaginian  ; who,  about  570  years  before  the 
Christian  era,  was  sent  by  the  state  to  explore  the  coast  be- 
yond the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  and  proceeded  as  far  as  a 
high  mountain,  called  Qurrus  Deorum ,#  beyond  one  of  the 
great  promontories  which  project  into  the  Atlantic,  This 
promontory  Ptolemy  places  on  this  side  of  the  equator  ; but 
whether  it  was  Bajador,  Blanco,  or  Cape  Verde,  is  very 
doubtful  : some  aftirrn  that  it  was  the  latter,  and  that  our 
colony  of  Sierra  Leone  is  placed  on  this  chariot  of  the  gods. 
Five  groups  of  islands  are  mentioned  within  these  limits  : — 
Cerne,  Insulae  purpureae,  Fortunatae,  Hesperides,  and  Gor- 
gades  ; hut  the  exceeding  vague,  indistinct,  and  contradic- 
tory manner  in  which  they  are  described  by  different  wri- 
ters, gives  no  information,  except  that  they  were  known  to 
exist  somewhere  along  the  coast,  scattered  in  the  great  At- 
lantic. It  appears  to  me,  however,  that  Madeira  and  its  ap- 
pendant island,  Porto  Santo,  were  best  known,  and  were 
the  uMKoipai  vtjeroi  of  the  Greek,  and  the  Insulae  Fortunatae  of 


© toov  O'XjnfJLA. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


39 


the  Latin  writers,  and  not  the  Canaries,  as  is  generally  sup- 
posed. They  are  described  as  existing  in  the  Atlantic,  at 
the  extremity  of  Mauritania,  or  Morocco,  about  600  miles 
from  the  coast,  and  tico  in  number,  according  to  Sebosus 
and  Plutarch,  all  which  localities  agree  with  Madeira  and 
Porto  Santo.  One  was  called  Ombria,  from  its  mists  and 
humidity,  abounding  in  trees  resembling  ferula,  or  fennel, 
and  was  filled  with  large  lizards  ; * permanent  natural  char- 
acters which  now  peculiarly  distinguish  Madeira. 

They  were  exuberant,  temperate,  and  wholesome,  pro- 
ducing every  kind  of  fruit  ; exempting  the  inhabitants  from 
ordinary  diseases,  and  insuring  to  them  an  extraordinary 
degree  of  longevity.  This  fertility  and  salubrity  also  form 
the  exact  character  of  the  islands  at  the  present  day.  Ser- 
torius,  according  to  Plutarch,  when  he  heard  them  describ- 
ed, was  eager  to  proceed  thither  from  Lusitania,  the  modern 
Portugal,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  they  were  more  imtne-> 
diately  situated  : so  that  the  Portuguese  then,  as  well  as 
now,  were  the  proprietors.  For  a series  of  centuries,  how- 
ever, they  were  lost  to  Europe,  till  again  discovered  by  an 
adventure,  as  romantic  and  extraordinary  as  any  recorded 
in  history,  and  told  with  such  minuteness,  and  by  so  many 
historians,  that  one  can  hardly  refuse  to  credit  it. 

The  person  who  firet  -detailed  the  account,  was  Fl'ancisCO 
Alcaforedo,  esquire  and  gentleman  of  the  bed-chamber,  to 
the  intelligent  Dom  Henry  ; and  who  was  himself  one  of  the 
adventurers  who  explored  the  island.  On  his  return,  he 
drew  up  the  particulars  for  his  patron,  by  whom  his  papers 
were  carefully  preserved.  I have  not  been  able  to  ascer- 
tain whether  they  were  published  at  the  time  ; but  long  after, 
Francisco  Manoel  incorporated  Alcaforedo’s  account  in  his 
history  published  in  1660,1  and  it  has  been  generally  fol- 
lowed. J have  seen  a French  translation,  printed  in  1671, 
and  an  English,  in  1675  ; and  since  then,  almost  all  per- 
sons who  visit  Madeira  allude  to  it  in  their  accounts.  You 
would  think  me  unpardonable  if  I passed  it  over  in  silence, 
so  I give  you  an  abridged  translation  of  the  original  work. 

In  the  reign  of  Edward  III.,  an  English  gentlemen,  named 

* Arbores  similes  ferulae,  lacertis  grandibus  referta. — Pliny. 

t Epanaf.  de  var  Ilistor.  par  D.  Francisco  Manoel  de  Mello,  1660. 
He  says,  that  Alcaforedo’s  account  was  written,  “ Com  igual  singeleza 
que  individuacao,  cujo  original  eu  guardo  como  joya  preciosa,  vindo 
& miaho  mao  par  extraordiaario  caminho.” 


40 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Lionel  Macham,  fell  in  love  with  Arabella  D’Arcy,*  a lady 
of  his  own  country.  Her  friends  disapproved  of  the  con- 
nexion, and  had  interest  enough  to  have  him  placed  in  con- 
finement ; and  in  the  mean  time  compelled  her  to  marry  an- 
other, who  brought  her  to  Bristol.  When  the  lady  was  thus 
disposed  of,  Macham  was  liberated  ; and  he,  stung  with  the 
oppression  and  injustice  he  had  endured,  called  together 
some  gallants,  his  friends,  and  detailed  to  them  his  wrongs. 
They  entered  at  once  into  his  feelings,  and  promised  to  as- 
sist him  in  carrying  off  the  object  of  his  love.  They  pro- 
ceeded to  Bristol,  and  their  plan  was  to  seize  a vessel  in 
the  harbor,  and  run  for  the  coast  of  France.  To  this  end 
they  took  a pleasure  boat,  and  daily  were  in  the  habit  of 
sailing  round  the  vessel,  that  their  approach  to  accomplish 
their  design  might  not  be  a subject  of  suspicion  or  alarm  to 
the  crew. 

The  lady  was,  in  the  mean  time,  apprised  of  their  pro- 
ceedings, and  agreed  to  meet  them  at  a solitary  place  or 
the  banks  of  the  Avon,  and  there  embark.  She  was  usual- 
ly attended  by  a retinue  of  servants,  but  by  the  contrivance 
of  her  groom,  who  was  in  the  interests  of  Macham,  she 
eluded  their  vigilance.  The  horse  she  rode  was  kept  with- 
out water  for  three  days  ; and  on  the  day  appointed,  as  he 
approached  the  river,  his  impatience  could  no  longer 
restrained  ; he  rushed  forward  with  an  impetuosity  with 
which  the  others  could  not  keep  pace,  arrived  alone,  and 
the  lady  was  received  on  board  the  shallop  which  was  wait- 
ing for  her,  before  her  attendants  could  come  up  or  inter- 
fere to  prevent  her.  To  aid  this  plan,  they  had  selected  a 
day  on  which  they  knew  that  the  officers  and  crew  of  the 
ship  were  feasting  on  shore,  on  some  festive  occasion,  so 
that  it  was  easily  seized  by  the  party,  and  carried  off. 
When  the  circumstance  was  known,  all  the  ships  in  the 
harbor  were  ordered  in  pursuit  of  the  fugitives.  u But,” 
says  my  author,  u what  noise  the  recital  of  this  adventure 
made,  not  only  in  Bristol,  but  in  all  England  ; what  descant 
was  made  thereupon,  or  what  punishment  the  actors  de- 
served, let  others  tell,  for  we  do  not  intend  to  particularise 
them  in  our  relation.” 

To  avoid  pursuit,  Macham  and  his  friends  altered  their 
course  in  the  night,  and  in  a day  or  two  found  themselves 


* There  is  some  variation  of  the  names,  in  different  accounts;  the 

fentlemen  is  called  Robert  Macham,  and  the  lady,  Ann  Dorset, 
>’Alfaret  and  Arfet. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


41 


out  of  danger  ; but  the  wind  now  changing,  blew  violently, 
and  drove  their  bark  into  the  Atlantic,  without  a possibility 
of  gaining  the  coast  of  France  ; and  for  thirty  days  togeth- 
er, they  ran  through  “ the  vast  and  dangerous  deserts  of 
the  ocean,”  hourly  expecting  death  ; when  one  morning, 
at  sun-rise,  they  found  themselves  close  in  with  a land, 
high,  craggy,  and  covered  with  trees.  On  running  near 
the  shore,  they  did  not  see  any  trace  of  human  beings  ; on 
the  contrary,  an  immense  number  of  birds  of  all  sizes  and 
descriptions,  settled  on  the  masts,  yards,  and  decks,  with 
an  appearance  of  curiosity,  and  sense  of  security,  as  if  they 
had  never  seen  or  been  molested  by  man  before.  They 
selected  for  their  landing  place,  a beautiful  spot,  over- 
shadowed with  a large  cedar  tree,  beside  a clear  rivulet  ; 
and  here  the  lovers,  with  part  of  their  friends,  reposed  and 
refreshed  themselves  for  thirteen  days,  while  the  remainder 
staid  on  board. 

On  the  fourteenth  morning  before  day,  one  of  those  im- 
petuous tornadoes,  which  still  burst  suddenly  from  the  sum- 
mit of  the  island,  and  rush  down  the  side,  drove  the  ship 
from  her  moorings,  and  pursued  her  for  two  days,  till  she 
was  wrecked  on  the  Barbary  coast,  and  all  the  crew  who 
escaped  on  shore  were  made  slaves.  When  it  was  light  in 
the  morning,  those  who  remained  on  the  island  looked  out, 
and  nowhere  perceiving  their  vessel,  concluded  she  must 
have  perished,  from  her  shattered  state,  and  her  weak 
crew.  This  consideration  deeply  affected  the  lady,  who 
now  gave  herself  up  to  despair  ; and  after  three  days  silent 
affliction,  during  which  she  never  spoke,  she  expired. 
Her  lover  could  not  survive  her  loss,  and  at  the  end  of 
five  days  he  too  died,  requesting  to  be  buried  in  the  same 
grave,  under  the  tall  tree  they  had  chosen  as  the  place  of 
repose.  The  stem,  by  his  direction,  was  hewn  into  across, 
and  an  inscription  cut  on  the  trunk,  requesting  that  future 
Christians,  who  should  find  this  place,  would  erect  a chapel 
on  the  spot,  in  which  prayers  might  be  offered  up  for  the 
repose  of  the  unhappy  lovers. 

The  seamen  now  built  a shallop  for  themselves,  out  of 
the  abundance  of  timber  they  found  everywhere  ; and, 
having  killed  birds  and  beasts  for  sea  store,  they  set  sail  to 
endeavor  to  return  to  Europe  ; but  the  same  wind  that  had 
driven  their  companions  before  it,  overtook  them  also,  and 
they,  too,  were  forced  on  the  coast  of  Morocco,  and  like 
them  were  made  slaves.  In  the  prison  in  which  they  were 
4* 


42 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


confined,  they  met  a Spaniard,  named  Morales,  to  whom,, 
in  their  mutual  communications,  they  related  their  adven- 
tures, and  the  discovery  of  the  new  land.  Morales  was  an 
intelligent  and  skilful  pilot — made  himself  acquainted  with 
all  the  particulars,  and  treasured  up  the  information  in  his 
mind. 

Some  time  after,  a large  sum  of  money  was  left  by  Don 
Sancho,  youngest  son  of  Ferdinand,  king  of  Castile,  in  the 
spirit  of  the  pious  charity  of  the  age,  to  redeem  Christian 
slaves  in  Africa  from  captivity  ; and  a vessel  was  sent  to 
fetch  them  home.  Morales  was  among  ihe  ransomed,  and 
he  returned  in  the  vessel  ; but  the  war  between  the  Span- 
iards and  Portuguese  had  not  yet  ceased  ; the  ship  was 
captured  by  the  latter,  and  Morales  was  brought  to  Portu- 
gal. Having  mentioned  this  extraordinary  story,  and  the 
discovery  he  had  made  while  a prisoner,  he  was  immedi- 
ately sent  to  Prince  Henry,  as  one  by  whom  his  informa- 
tion would  be  highly  valued  ; and  detailed  to  him,  at  his 
arsenal  at  Algarves,  all  the  particulars.  The  enterprising 
prince  without  delay  fitted  out  an  expedition  to  complete 
the  discovery,  consisting  of  a.  vessel  well  equipped  with 
sails,  and  a shallop  propelled  by  oars,  and  gave  the  com- 
mand to  Gonzalves,  who  had  • discovered  Porto  Santo. 
Morales,  and  several  Portuguese  gentlemen,  embarked  with 
him,  among  whom  was  Francisco  Alcaforedo,  then  an  es- 
quire of  the  Prince,  who  has  detailed  the  narrative. 

When  they  arrived  at  Porto  Santo,  they  saw  on  the  dis- 
tant horizon,  the  portentous  black  cloud,  which  Morales 
immediately  conjectured  to  be  the  land  he  sought  for  ; but 
the  timidity  and  superstition  of  the  rest  were  so  great,  that 
before  they  attempted  to  proceed  on  the  discovery,  they  re- 
solved to  wait  for  a quarter  of  a moon,  to  see  if  the  phenom- 
enon would  disperse,  or  alter  its  shape  : it  did  neither,  but 
remained  the  dark,  undefined,  mysterious  object  they  first 
saw  it.  The  crews  had  determined  to  return  without 
tempting  their  fate  ; but  Gonzalves,  relying  on  the  sagacity 
of  the  Spaniard,  set  sail  in  the  night,  and  the  next  morning 
they  found  themselves  still  nearer  the  dreaded  object. 
About  mid-day  the  obscurity  increased,  and  the  mist  extend- 
ing all  along  the  horizon,  presented  one  vast  black  abyss, 
which  drew  forth  outcries  of  alarm  and  terror  from  the 
crews,  and  they  refused  to  proceed  any  farther.  Gonzal- 
ves now  called  them  on  deck,  and  made  them  a long  speech, 
appealing  to  their  courage  and  sense  of  duty,  which  roused 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


43 


them  to  a frantic  resolution,  and  they  urged  forward  lheir 
ships  with  the  same  desperate  determination  as  a forlorn 
hope  enters  a breach.  As  they  approached,  they  thought 
they  perceived  men  of  gigantic  stature,  and  portentous  vis- 
ionary forms,  menacing  them  ; but  the  sun  now  suddenly 
bursting  out,  absorbed  the  veil  of  vapor,  and  displayed  the 
feature  of  a lovely  land,  environed  with  peaks  and  rocks, 
which  the  mist  had  magnified  and  distorted  into  giants. — 
Having  coasted  some  time,  admiring  the'prospect  every- 
where presented,  they  prepared  to  land  ; but  the  sun  set- 
ting, they  deferred  it  till  the  next  day,  and  in  the  mean  time 
Gonzalves  kept  a good  look  out  at  night  on  the  strange 
coast  ; u for  sleep  is  a rock,”  says  my  author,  u the  more 
dangerous,  because  no  pilot  finds  it  in  his  sea-chart.” 

Next  day  they  landed,  and  Morales  immediately  discov- 
ered traces  of  the  English,  trees  notched  with  axes,  and 
other  signs  of  human  labor  ; but  at  length  they  came  to 
the  very  tree  on  which  the  cross  was  erected,  and  read  the 
inscription,  still  legible  on  its  trunk.  An  altar  was  there- 
fore immediately  raised  on  the  spot,  and  mass  said  for  the 
repose  of  the  souls  of  Macham  and  his  unfortunate  lady. 

On  further  exploring  the  island,  it  was  found  entirely 
destitute  of  human  inhabitants,  and  the  birds  so  tame,  that 
they  had  no  apprehension  of  the  approach  of  man,  but  pas- 
sively suffered  themselves  to  be  taken.  The  surface  was 
thickly  covered  with  trees,  except  that  in  one  part  was  a 
fine  plain,  producing  nothing  but  luxuriant  plants  of  fennel. 
This  plain  they  called  Funchal,  which  means  fennel,  in 
Portuguese  ; and  here  they  resolved  to  build  their  future 
capital.  On  one  spot  they  encountered  a number  of  seals, 
then  called  sea-wolves,  which  rushed  from  a cavern.  This 
place  they  named  Camera  dos  Lobos,  and  their  enterpris- 
ing commander  took  his  future  title  from  it  ; his  arms  hav- 
ing two  sea-wolves  for  supporters. 

During  all  this  time  they  were  under  an  impression  that 
the  land  they  were  on,  was  a promontory  projecting  into 
the  ocean  from  the  continent,  and  part  of  the  coast  of  Afri- 
ca ; but  they  now  returned  to  the  place  from  whence  they 
had  set  out,  and  having  made  a complete  circuit  of  it,  dis- 
covered it  was  an  island. 

Having  thus  ascertained  every  particular  of  the  state  of 
their  discovery,  they  sailed  back  to  Portugal,  to  make  it 
known.  Gonzalves  and  his  companions  were  introduced  to 
the  king  and  court,  and  at  a public  audience,  gave  a 


44 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL, 


full  account  of  the  circumstances  detailed  in  the  foregoing 
narrative  ; and,  as  the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  isl- 
and was  the  vast  trees  by  which  it  was  covered,  the  king 
immediately  declared  it  should  be  called  Madeira,  or  Tim- 
ber Island. 

On  the  following  year  Gonzalves  returned  with  a colony, 
and  ran  directly  for  the  harbor  which  the  English  had  dis- 
covered, and  he  himselfhad  entered  the  year  before  ; and 
this  he  called  Porto  Machico,  or  Machino,  in  memory  of  the 
unfortunate  lovers.  All  these  places  are  still  designated 
by  the  same  names  at  the  present  day. 

Such  is  the  very  curious  and  minute  account  of  the  dis- 
covery of  Madeira,  given  by  a man  who  was  himself  an  act- 
or in,  and  eyewitness  to,  the  events  which  he  details.  Its 
authenticity,  however,  has  been  questioned,  because  many 
writers  of  credit  are  silent  on  the  subject  ; because  events 
are  mentioned  which  must,  have  taken  place  long  afterwards  ; 
and  because  Edward  III.  died  in  1378,  and  Madeira  was 
discovered  in  1420  ; so  that  the  pilot  must  have  been  forty 
years  a slave.  To  the  first,  it  is  replied,  that  a number  of 
old  writers  of  credit  receive  it  as  true.  Galvano  mentions 
it  as  the  tradition  of  Aragon  ; Hakluyt  speaks  of  it  as  au- 
thentic ; Cordeyro  details  it  in  his  Insulana,  and  several 
others  notice  it  as  a fact  not  disputed  ; but  Horn  Francisco 
Manoel  de  Mello  is  a host  in  himself,  who  says  he  had 
the  original  papers  in  his  possession.  With  respect  to  the 
second,  all  the  subsequent  events  were  obviously  added  by 
Manoel  to  Alcaforedo’s  original  manuscript  ; and,  with  re- 
spect to  the  third,  we  know  that  unfortunate  slaves  have  been 
liberated  after  a longer  confinement.  Some  of  them,  manu- 

tted  when  the  English  palace  at  Constantinople  was  fin- 
ished, had  been  fifty  years  in  bondage.  To  this  might  be 
added  the  ancient  tradition  of  the  island.  The  bay  is  still 
called  after  Macham’s  name  ; they  preserve  there  a cedar 
cross,  as  the  one  carved  out  of  the  tree  ; and  they  show  a 
series  of  pictures  in  the  government  hall,  descriptive  of  the 
several  events  of  the  story.  You  will  decide  for  yourself, 
but  I am  disposed  to  think  you  will  conclude,  that  if  we  were 
now  to  claim  the  island,  on  the  ground  of  being  the  first  dis- 
coverers, our  pretensions  would  hardly  be  acknowledged, 
even  on  the  testimony  of  Alcaforedo. 

As  Madeira  was  the  first  fruits  of  Prince  Henry’s  dis- 
coveries, so  it  was  the  first  object  of  his  care  and  attention. 
He  filled  it  with  such  productions  of  other  countries,  as  were 


NOTICES  OF  ERAZIL. 


45 


not  indigenous  to  its  own  prolific  soil.  To  this  end  he  sent 
to  Sicily  for  sugar  canes,  ( Jlrundo  saccharifera ),  and  to  Cy- 
prus for  vines  ; and  they  both  throve  so  abundantly,  as 
soon  to  render  his  new  island  famous.  The  wines  still  re- 
tain their  celebrity  ; but  the  culture  of  sugar  has  so  declined 
in  these  latter  years,  that  there  is  at  present  but  one  engen- 
ho,  or  sugar-mill,  on  the  island.  Silk  worms  were  also  in- 
troduced from  the  east  ; but  notwithstanding  the  number  of 
mulberry  trees  indigenous  to  the  soil,  the  experiment  did 
not  succeed,  and  some  few  articles  of  silk  wear  are  man- 
ufactured from  the  raw  material  imported. 

Among  the  foreigners  who  were  induced  to  settle  in  this 
beautiful  island,  there  was  a large  proportion  of  English, 
attracted  either  by  the  salubrity  of  the  climate,  or  by  com- 
mercial speculation.  So  great  has  been  the  resort  of  inva- 
lids from  the  former  motive,  that  the  place  has  been  called 
the  “last  haven  of  health  ; and  the  burial  ground  is  full 
of  melancholy  memorials  of  those  who  fled  in  vain  from  their 
own  chill  and  foggy  atmosphere,  to  this  more  pure  and  ge- 
nial climate.  It  is  now,  I believe,  ascertained  by  long  ex- 
perience, that  Madeira  is  no  more  a refuge  to  the  consump- 
tive, than  any  other  place  : when  a human  being  is  once 
struck  by  that  incurable  malady,  it  is  in  vain  to  seek  for 
health  in  anv  climate  : liceret  latcri  lethalis  arundo,  V/hCTC- 
ever  the  stricken  patient  flies.  Its  celebrity,  therefore,  in 
this  particular  is  nearly  passed  away.  The  English,  how- 
ever, who  reside,  form  a very  respectable  part  of  the  popula- 
tion. They  consist  of  about  300  individuals,  who  have  es- 
tablished about  twenty  mercantile  houses,  and  are  among 
the  most  opulent  merchants  of  the  place. 

The  spirit  of  intolerance,  formerly  complained  of  in  Cath- 
olic countries,  is  now  fast  disappearing.  It  had  been  the 
custom,  not  only  to  deny  heretics  the  rites  of  burial  in  con- 
secrated places,  but  to  cast  their  bodies  into  the  sea,  as  un- 
hallowed things,  which  the  very  ground  everywhere  rejected. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  Ovington  visited  the  island,  in  his  way  to  the 
east  in  1696  : an  Englishman  had  just  died,  and  his  friends 
deposited  his  body  in  a place  of  concealment  among  the 
rocks — but  here  it  was  found  out,  dragged  down,  and  cast 
into  the  water.  It  should  mitigate,  however,  our  horror  at 
such  intolerance,  if  we  recollect  at  how  very  late  a period 
the  penal  statute  against  Catholic  funerals  was  enforced  in 
our  own  church-yards.  In  1770,  it  ceased  in  Madeira,  and 
the  English  residents  have  not  only  a large  cemetery,  but 
they  have  built  a fine  church.  It  is  true  that  the  permis- 


46 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


sion  interdicted  them  from  erecting  a steeple  with  bells,  bat 
they  have  ornamented  their  chapel  with  a cupola,  and  they 
now  freely  and  publicly  exercise  the  rites  of  their  religion 
in  an  edifice  as  conspicuous  and  ornamental  as  any  Catho- 
lic place  of  worship  in  our  own  country.  It  is  surely  a de- 
lightful contemplation  to  a Christian  mind,  to  see  the  asper- 
ities of  mutual  intolerance  thus  wearing  away,  and  the  spirit 
of  the  Apostle’s  precept  beginning  at  length  to  operate 
among  all  sects,  in  all  countries. 

The  number  of  English  residents  in  Madeira  seems  to  have 
had  a considerable  effect  on  the  sentiments  and  intelligence 
of  the  rest,  who  are  deemed  an  enlightened  people,  deriving, 
like  those  of  Oporto,  much  of  their  character  from  their  in- 
tercourse with  the  strangers.  When,  therefore,  the  first  con- 
stitutional government  was  formed  in  Portugal,  the  people 
of  Madeira  immediately  adopted  it.  On  the  28th  of  January, 
1821,  about  six  individuals  commenced  by  an  address  to  the 
governor,  which  in  a short  time  was  increased  by  above  600 
more  signatures  ; but  among  them  no  person’s  name  of  rank 
or  consequence.  In  answer  to  this  address,  the  governor 
drew  down  the  guns  of  the  fortress  to  fire  on  the  petitioners, 
but  the  army  refused  to  act,  and  the  spirit  became  general 
all  over  the  island.  The  governor,  now  seeing  no  alterna- 
tive, appeared  on  the  battlements  in  token  of  his  acquiescence 
with  the  public  wish — the  Constitution  was  proclaimed,  a 
brillant  illumination  for  two  days  and  nights  succeeded,  and 
four  deputies  were  sent  to  the  cortes  at  Lisbon.  To  keep 
alive  the  constitutional  spirit,  the  revolutionists  sent  to  Eng- 
land for  a printing  press,  which  was  the  first  ever  seen  on  the 
island  ; and  the  1st  of  July,  1821,  was  made  memorable  by 
the  publication  of  an  insular  newspaper,  called  the  u Patriota 
Funchalense,”  a thing  as  novel  as  it  was  extraordinary  in 
the  annals  of  Madeira.  A counter  revolution  was  now  plan- 
ned, and  it  was  intended  that  it  should  explode  at  the  thea- 
tre. The  design,  however,  transpired — the  house  was  filled 
with  constitutional  soldiers  ; and  the  bishop  ofMadeira,  who 
was  known  to  be  the  instigator,  was  arrested.  A council  of 
300  persons  was  formed,  as  a provisional  assembly,  to  direct 
affairs  ; and  a deputation  of  nine  waited  on  the  bishop  to  com- 
municate to  him  that  he  must  leave  the  island.  He  was  ac- 
cordingly embarked  on  board  an  Enlgish  schooner,  and  two 
military  officers  were  deputed  to  attend  him,  and  deliver  him 
up  to  the  authorities  in  Lisbon.  From  that  time  affairs  wer§ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


47 


conducted  quietly,  till  the  counter  revolution  in  Portugal 
entirely  changed  the  face  of  them. 

In  1823,  an  expedition  of  troops  was  sent  to  Madeira, 
and  a commission  of  magistrates  appointed  to  overawe  the 
island,  and  prosecute  those  who  had  shown  an  attachment 
to  the  late  order  of  things  ; and  the  people  complained  that 
though  there  had  been  no  commotion  among  them,  and  that 
they  merely  followed  the  progress  of  events  in  the  mother 
country,  they  were  yet  objects  of  persecution.  When, 
therefore,  the  constitutional  system  was  again  proclaimed, 
it  was  received  at  Madeira  with  great  and  general  satisfac- 
tion, and  a new  newspaper,  called  u O Defensor  da  Liber- 
dade,”  was  established  to  support  its  principles.  Its  em- 
blems were,  a cap  of  liberty  on  a pole,  crossed  by  a sword 
and  a pen,  its  two  most  powerful  supporters.  Its  fate,  how- 
ever, is  a proof  how  little  their  use  was  understood.  The 
paper  was  subject  to  a censorship,  and  many  of  the  numbers 
contain  long  passages  marked,  as  erased.  Notwithstanding 
this,  the  proprietor  was  prosecuted  and  punished  for  sedi- 
tion by  the  constitutional  government,  though  he  had  cau- 
tiously omitted  all  the  offensive  passages,  and  the  remain- 
der of  the  paper  was  supposed  to  be  published  with  the  ap- 
probation of  the  censor  himself. 

In  April,  1827,  Jose  Lucio  Travassos  Valdez  was  ap- 
pointed governor  and  captain-general  ofthe  island.  General 
Valdez  had  already  distinguished  himself  in  the  constitution- 
al cause — was  appointed  by  Dom  John  VI.  to  the  command 
of  the  fortress  of  Braganza,  and  had  defended  it  with  great 
spirit,  in  1826,  against  the  insurgents  who  had  then  risen  to 
overturn  the  existing  government.  In  May,  1828,  news 
arrived  in  Madeira  that  the  Constitution  was  again  destroy- 
ed— that  Dom  Miguel  was  proclaimed  absolute  king,  and 
the  cortes  ofLamego  substituted  for  that  which  had  been  by 
law  established.  He  therefore  wished  to  uphold  the  legiti- 
mate system,  which  he  thought  it  his  duty  to  support — but 
not  to  declare  himself  till  he  provided  everything  necessary 
for  defence. 

A census  had  been  taken  ofthe  inhabitants  in  1822,  and 
it  was  found  that  they  amounted  to  99,600  souls.  Since 
then,  an  increase  was  known  to  have  taken  place,  and  the 
whole  were  now  estimated  at  110,000;  of  whom  25,000 
were  inhabitants  of  Funchal.  The  troops  consisted  of  a bat- 
talion of  artillery  of  the  line,  of  850  men,  disciplined  to  do 
duty  as  infantry,  with  a company  of  a regiment  of  artillery, 


48 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


from  the  army  of  Portugal,  which  had  been  sent  to  the 
island  in  1 823,  and  twentysix  field-pieces;  three  regiments 
of  militia  of  Funchal,  Calheta,  and  S.  Vincente,  of  1100 
men  each  ; with  twentysix  forts,  batteries,  and  redoubts  in 
the  city,  and  different  parts  of  the  island,  mounting  220 
pieces  of  cannon,  the  greater  part  of  large  calibre,  and  gar- 
risoned by  2000  men.  With  such  means  of  defence,  and  the 
good  dispositions  of  the  people,  it  seemed  probable  that  it 
could  resist  any  force  sent  against  it. 

The  general’s  first  care  was  to  visit  and  inspect  his  re-r 
sources.  He  found  the  artillery  reduced  to  200  men,  and 
the  militia  regiments  to  a moiety  of  their  complements  ; the 
garrisons  not  half  manned,  and  the  guns  in  a very  imperfect 
state.  He  raised  the  regiment  of  artillery  to  500  men,  and 
the  militia  in  proportion  ; supplied  them  with  new  arms, 
repaired  the  old  as  far  as  circumstances  would  permit,  and 
reorganized  the  whole  military  force,  to  be  ready  on  an 
emergency.  He  established  a telegraph,  to  communicate 
with  distant  parts  of  the  island.  The  Brazilian  minister  in 
London  wrote  to  him,  apprising  him  of  all  that  had  hap- 
pened in  Portugal  up  to  the  12th  of  May  ; he  next  day  des- 
patched the  messenger  on  to  the  Brazils,  and  communicated 
to  the  emperor  the  state  of  things  at  Lisbon,  and  of  the 
measures  he  was  taking  to  protect  Madeira. 

Ill  these  proceedings  he  was  placed  in  a very  difficult  sit- 
uation. His  secretary  was  a decided  apostolical,  and  in 
constant  communication  with  the  party  in  Portugal.  The 
bishop  of  Madeira  was  returned,  and  with  the  other  clergy, 
amounting  to  more  than  1400  persons,  who  everywhere  in- 
sinuated themselves,  were  laboring  to  put  an  end  to  the 
Constitution,  and  counteracting  all  his  measures,  before 
they  were  matured.  But  the  circumstance  that  more  than 
all  tended  to  frustrate  his  preparations,  was  the  premature 
announcement,  in  the  public  Gazette  of  Oporto  and  Eng- 
land, that  Madeira  had  declared  against  Horn  Miguel. 
From  that  moment  an  expedition  was  resolved  on,  and  pre- 
pared with  all  possible  despatch,  to  secure  it  ; and  this 
circumstance  perhaps  tended  more  than  any  other  to  the  re- 
duction of  the  island,  for  the  force  appeared,  before  it  was 
prepared  to  resist. 

As  the  bishop  of  Madeira  had  hitherto  preserved  a fair 
appearance,  and  seemed  to  take  no  part  in  affairs,  he  did 
not  yet  openly  avow  himself ; but  he  made  use  of  a char- 
acteristic expedient  to  communicate  his  sentiments  to  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


4*9 


people.  On  the  12th  of  June,  a priest  issued  from  a church 
into  the  streets  of  Funchal  with  a crucifix  in  his  hand,  and, 
assuming  the  appearance  of  an  idiot,  called  all  the  people 
round  him,  and  then  harangued  them  as  an  inspired  person. 
He  said  he  had  just  spoken  to  their  lord  and  master  Dom 
Miguel,  and  whoever  wished  to  save  himself  should  follow 
him.  A sudden  commotion  of  the  people,  excited  by  this 
fanatic,  was  about  to  take  place  ; but  the  General,  apprised 
of  it,  had  the  troops  immediately  under  arms, — the  rising 
was  suppressed,  and  the  priest  committed,  by  the  direction 
of  the  bishop  himself,  when  his  plan  had  miscarried,  to  the 
lunatic  asylum. 

On  the  16th  of  June,  news  was  brought  to  Madeira  of 
the  efforts  of  the  Constitutionalists  at  Oporto,  and  their 
march  on  Lisbon  : and  the  General  thought  that  now  was 
the  moment  to  declare  himself  in  Madeira,  and  he  did  so  in 
the  following  manner.  Without  apprising  any  one  of  his 
intentions,  he  directed  that  the  chamber  of  the  senate  should 
meet  the  counsel  of  state,  on  the  22d  of  June,  in  order  to 
ascertain  exactly  what  were  the  real  feelings  of  the  people, 
and  await  further  orders.  About  half-past  eleven,  the  re- 
giment of  artillery  of  the  line,  commanded  by  Colonel  Fran- 
cisco Manoel  Padrone,  marched  from  its  quarters  to  the 
public  square,  and  immediately  the  regiment  of  Funchal 
militia,  commanded  by  Colonel  Antonio  Jose  Espinola 
Valdevesso,  followed  thither,  and  the  area  of  the  cathedral 
was  filled  with  the  park  of  artillery.  It  was  now  mid-day, 
and  the  square  and  streets  were  crowded  with  a vast  con- 
course of  people,  who  rushed  to  see  what  was  going  on, 
without  at  all  knowing  its  object.  Valdez  issued  from  his 
palace,  accompanied  by  Colonel  Joao  de  Carvalhal  and  his 
staff,  and  passing  along  the  line,  was  saluted  by  the  soldiers. 
He  then  proceeded  to  the  place  where  the  senate  and 
council  had  met  together,  and  for  the  first  time  announced 
his  intention  of  proclaiming  Dom  Pedro  and  the  constitu- 
tional charter,  and  invited  Ahem  to  assist  on  the  occasion. 
A shout  of  applause  spontaneously  burst  from  all  the  mem- 
bers, indicating  that  such  was  the  wish  of  all  the  citizens 
and  the  corporations  which  they  represented. 

The  members  of  the  chamber  then,  preceded  by  their 
ensigns,  entered  the  area  of  the  cathedral,  accompanied  by 
an  immense  crowd.  The  military  formed  a hollow  square, 
and  from  the  centre  General  Valdez  read  a proclamation, 
in  which  he  told  them  the  occasion  was  now  arrived  which 
5 


50 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL, 


demanded  from  them  the  discharge  of  their  most  sacred 
duties.  This  proclamation  was  followed  by  a manifesto 
breathing  the  same  sentiments — that  degenerate  men,  un- 
worthy of  the  name  of  Portuguese,  had  dared  to  rebel  against 
the  lawful  king  and  his  sacred  charter  ; and  venal  writers, 
corrupted  by  a perfidious  ministry,  had  dared  to  proclaim  an 
absolute  king,  and  death  to  the  lawful  monarch  ; that  it  was 
resolved  to  protect  this  beautiful  isle,  u the f flower  of  the 
ocean,”  from  the  mania  that  had  seized  the  kingdom  of  Por- 
tugal ; that  if  it  had  not  been  for  a few  ministers  of  religion, 
who,  either  through  error  of  judgment  or  wilfulness,  had 
joined  some  disgraced  and  obscure  demagogues,  the  island 
of  Madeira  would  have  been  the  spot,  where  alone  the  seeds 
of  rebellion  had  not  germinated. 

u When  these  documents  were  read,  there  appeared,”  said 
my  reporter,  u on  the  face  of  his  Excellency,  on  that  of  the 
noble  soldiers,  and  on  the  whole  assembled  people,  those 
sweet  tears  which  excessive  joy  always  produces  ; but 
when  the  General  himself,  assuming  the  command,  shouted 
out — c Long  live  Pedro,  Maria,  and  the  constitutional  char- 
ter !’  it  would  require  three  hundred  mouths,  as  many  tongues , 
and  a voice  of  iron , to  describe  the  enthusiasm  of  Ma- 
deira ! 

The  cathedral  was  now  suddenly  illuminated,  as  if  by 
enchantment,  and  the  constituted  authorities,  accompanied 
by  an  immense  crowd,  entered  it,  and  joined  a solemn  fe 
deum.  Troops  of  musicians  marched  about  the  streets,  ac- 
companied by  parties  of  citizens,  singing  the  constitutional 
hymn  ; and  the  evening  ended  with  a grand  tea  party  (cha 
magnifica)  given  at  the  palace,  which  was  splendidly  illu- 
minated for  the  occasion. 

It  had  been  the  anxious  wish  of  the  Constitutionalists, 
that  the  English  residents  should  identify  themselves  with 
them,  and  take  a part  in  the  defence  of  the  island  5 and 
some  were  well  disposed  to  make  a common  cause  with  their 
friends  and  neighbors  the  Madeirese  ; but  the  great  ma- 
jority wisely  thought  they  ought  not  to  interfere  in  the  con- 
cerns of  a place  where  they  were  merely  strangers  and  so- 
journers, so  they  prudently  sent  in  a formal  protest  and 
declaration  on  the  subject. 

In  order  to  keep  alive  the  spirit  and  inform  the  public 

* Seria  necessario  ter  cem  bocas,  outras  tantas  linguas  e a voz  de 
ferro,  para  poder  descrever  o enthusiasmo  Madeirense. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


51 


mind,  a new  newspaper  was  set  up,  called  Cl  Flor  do 
Oceano,”  the  Flower  of  the  Ocean,  from  this  famous  ap- 
pellation, as  the  editor  says,  which  General  Valdez  had 
conferred  on  the  island  in  his  manifesto.*  The  first  num- 
ber was  published  on  the  27th  June,  1828,  and  it  is  said  to 
be  imprinted,  “ Funchal  con  liqenca  na  officina  Britannica.” 
Even  this  announcement  greatly  alarmed  and  annoyed  the 
English,  as  affording  a presumption  of  their  participation, 
and  likely  to  involve  them  in  the  consequences  which  might 
ensue.  But  the  turgid  and  inflated  style  of  this  paper  ; the 
pompous  declarations  and  mean  performances  ; the  promise 
of  mighty  things,  and  the  lame  and  impotent  conclusions, 
would  be  in  themselves  intrinsic  evidence  that  the  English 
had  nothing  to  do  with  it. 

It  was  considered  necessary  to  remove  all  suspicious 
persons  from  places  of  trust.  The  secretary  of  the  gov- 
ernment was  suspended  ; the  bishop  was  obliged  to  dismiss 
his  vicar-general  ; and  about  twenty  persons,  including 
eight  or  ten  ecclesiastics,  were  apprehended  and  sent  out 
of  the  island  to  Porto  Santo.  In  the  mean  time  despatches 
were  sent  off  to  the  provisional  council  at  Oporto,  to  the 
Brazilian  minister  in  London,  and  to  the  British  ministry, 
apprising  them  of  what  had  been  done  in  Madeira, 


CHAP.  IV. 

Portuguese  Frigate  arrives,  and  again  departs. — Insurrection  of  the  Peasants,  and  the 
Bishops  sent  from  the  Island. — Resolute  Determination  of  the  People. — Portu- 
guese Fleet  appears  off  the  Island, — Cruises  without  attempting  to  land. — Packet 
arrives  with  Constitutional  Officers. — Portuguese  Fleet  disappears. — Returns  sud- 
denly, and  lands  at  Machico. — Defence  of  the  Islanders. — Explosion  of  the  Military 
Chest.— General  Valdez  harangues  the  Soldiers. — Funchal  surrenders. — Consti- 
tutionalists take  refuge  on  board  the  Alligator. — Transferred  to  a Merchantman, 
and  sail  for  England. — Astonishment  of  the  Portuguese  at  their  easy  Conquest. 

Three  days  after,  an  opportunity  occurred  of  trying  the 
sincerity  and  firmness  of  the  people  of  the  island.  A Por- 
tuguese frigate,  the  Princeza  Real,  appeared  opposite  the 
town,  and  it  was  at  first  believed  that  she  was  sent  with 

* This  appellation  was  derived  from  the  Portuguese  poet  Diniz,  who 
£&lls  it  “ do  uijdoso  campo  Flor,’’  Flower  of  the  wavy  plain. 


52 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


news  that  all  the  authorities  in  Portugal  had  acknowledged 
the  constitution,  and  that  the  insurrection,  as  it  was  called, 
was  at  an  end.  While  the  visitors  went  on  board,  the  peo- 
ple assembled  on  the  shore,  and  continued  with  music, 
singing  patriotic  songs,  till  their  return.  It  was  now  as- 
certained that  the  frigate  had  brought  out  officers  of  the 
new  government  to  replace  those  of  Madeira  and  the  Azo- 
res. It  was  necessary  to  send  on  board  again  to  notify  the 
change  that  had  taken  place  in  the  sentiments  of  the  peo- 
ple of  Madeira  ; but  every  one  was  afraid  to  go  on  such  an 
errand,  lest  they  and  the  bark  which  brought  them  should 
be  seized  and  carried  off  At  length  Mr.  Yeitch,  the  Brit- 
ish consul,  volunteered  his  service,  and,  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  British  flag,  went  on  board,  bringing  with  him 
the  proclamation  of  G eneral  Valdez,  and  other  documents, 
declaring  the  state  of  affairs  on  the  island.  In  a short  time 
after  the  frigate  set  sail  and  disappeared  to  the  south.  The 
enthusiasm  of  the  people  was  so  great,  that  500  new  recruits, 
and  some  of  them  the  most  respectable  men  on  the  island, 
enrolled  themselves  in  a few  hours  that  evening  into  a vol- 
unteer corps. 

In  the  mean  time  an  insurrection,  which  had  been  organi- 
zing itself  in  the  north  of  the  island,  now  broke  out.  Some 
ecclesiastics  of  Porto  Delgado,  seduced  the  soldiers  of  tho 
militia  regiment  of  S.  Vincente  ; and  on  the  27th,  about  300 
men,  armed  with  fusils,  marched  on  S.  Jorge.  In  two  hours 
a strong  detachment  was  sent  from  Punch al  by  forced 
marches,  who  came  up  with  the  insurgents  in  the  mountains, 
killed  two,  wounded  ten,  and  made  about  twenty  prisoners  ; 
and  returned  in  three  days  to  F unchal,  bringing  with  them 
those  whom  they  found  most  culpable  in  exciting  the  insur- 
rection. As  the  bishop  was  known  to  be  the  prime  instiga- 
tor, it  was  thought  right  to  send  him  entirely  from  the, 
island.  He  was  therefore  directed  first  to  draw  up  a pasto- 
ral letter  to  the  people,  exhorting  them  to  observe  and  obey 
the  constitutional  government  ; and  on  the  10th  he  departed, 
with  fourteen  of  his  disaffected  clergy,  for  Oporto. 

Two  days  after,  the  disastrous  news  arrived  that  the  gen- 
eral officers  had  abandoned  the  forces  of  Oporto,  and  em- 
barked for  England  5 and  this  was  confirmed  by  the  Medina, 
an  English  corvette,  which  came  in  thirteen  days  from  Lis- 
bon ; but  though  it  excited  the  strongest  sensation,  it  only 
increased  their  activity  in  preparing  to  meet  events.  Au 
invasion  of  the  island  was  now  naturally  expected,  and  th§ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


53 


whole  line  of  coast  was  examined  and  quartered,  from  Praia 
Formosa  on  the  west,  to  Machico  on  the  east  of  the  capital  ; 
400  or  500  men  daily  labored  ; new  batteries  were  erected  ; 
old  ones  repaired  ;*  and  in  the  short  space  of  twenty  days, 
120  pieces  of  cannon,  generally  of  large  calibre,  and  26  field- 
pieces,  were  in  batteries  ready  to  repel  an  invader.  The 
troops  also  showed  extraordinary  zeal  and  apparent  resolu- 
tion ; the  recruits  were  eager  to  render  themselves  expert 
in  military  evolutions  ; and  the  new  corps  of  volunteers  of 
Pedro  IV.  as  they  were  called,  who  had  enrolled  them- 
selves on  the  appearance  of  the  Portuguese  frigate,  were 
particularly  distinguished  for  their  zeal  and  dexterity. 

In  order  to  make  up  something  like  a naval  force,  they 
converted  two  government  barges  into  gun-boats,  one  of 
eighteen,  and  the  other  of  twentytwo  oars.  In  a few  days 
they  were  well  equipped  and  manned,  each  carrying  a can- 
non, and  the  command  was  given  to  an  American  ship  cap- 
tain. One  of  them  was  afterwards  pointed  out  to  me,  cov- 
ered with  a crimson  canopy,  conveying  to  shore  some  of 
the  suite  of  Dom  Miguel’s  new  government.  In  a few 
days  after  they  were  ready,  they  were  called  into  service. 
A corvette  and  two  brigs  appeared  in  the  offing,  and  proved 
to  be  a blockading  squadron  of  Portuguese.  The  young 
fleet  of  Madeira  was  appointed  to  watch  them,  as  a guarda- 
costa  to  the  city.  On  the  31st,  however,  being  the  anni- 
versary of  the  Constitution,  the  blockading  squadron  disap- 
peared early  in  the  morning,  which  the  people  of  Madeira 
took  for  a good  omen. 

They  were  now  in  anxious  expectation  of  promised  suc- 
cor from  abroad.  Though  well  disposed,  the  troops  were 
altogether  inexperienced,  and  General  Valdez  had  not  an 
officer  to  command  them  who  had  ever  seen  service.  They 
hourly  looked  out  for  3,000  men,  which  they  requested  and 
expected  would  be  sent  by  the  ministers  of  Dom  Pedro, 
and  a detachment  of  experienced  officers  to  command  the 
insular  troops.  The  general  applied  to  the  Brazilian  con- 
sul at  Gibraltar,  to  forward  to  him  several  Portuguese  offi- 
cers there,  who  were  in  the  confidence  of  Dom  Pedro,  and 
other  succors,  by  a steam-boat,  such  as  had  been  sent  to 
Oporto  : and  a ship  was  despatched  to  St.  Michael’s,  to 
request  that  two  companies  of  Ca^adors,  quartered  there, 
should  be  ordered  for  the  defence  of  Madeira  ; but  they  had 
been  conveyed  to  Terceira,  and  afterwards  formed  part  of 
the  gallant  garrison  which  defended  that  island.  They 


54 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


therefore  remained  without  any  succor  from  abroad,  and 
entirely  dependent  on  their  own  .resources.  They  were 
left,  moreover,  ignorant  of  the  intentions  of  Portugal,  ex- 
cept that  they  expected  every  day  some  powerful  armament 
would  be  sent  to  crush  them.  And  certainly,  for  a small 
island  thus  to  resolve  to  brave  the  whole  force  of  the  mother 
country,  and  hold  out  the  last  forlorn  hope  to  an  expiring 
Constitution,  which  had  been  everywhere  else  utterly 
stifled,  was  a bold  and  gallant  resolution. 

In  this  state  of  suspense  and  anxious  determination  they 
continued  for  nearly  a month,  without  any  communication 
from  Lisbon  ; when,  on  the  evening  of  the  15th  of  August, 
1828,  the  telegraph  communicated  that  there  appeared  nine 
ships  of  war  in  the  offing,  but  at  such  a considerable  dis- 
tance, that  they  could  not  ascertain  to  what  nation  they  be- 
longed. On  the  next  day  they  were  in  with  the  land,  and 
they  were  known  to  be  a Portuguese  squadron  of  one  ship 
of  the  line,  two  frigates,  two  corvettes,  two  luggers,  and 
two  brigs.  The  island  was  now  on  the  alert  ; the  hour  of 
trial  was  come,  and  it  was  to  be  seen  quid  tanto  ferret  pro- 
missor  hiatu.  Every  man,  however,  when  the  alarm  was 
sounded,  was  at  his  post,  and  the  best  disposition  was  every- 
where observable. 

The  wind  now  freshening  and  becoming  favorable,  the 
squadron  formed  in  line,  and  about  two  o’clock  bore  down 
on  the  island,  apparently  to  commence  an  attack,  while 
every  preparation  was  made  on  land  to  repel  it.  At  some 
distance,  however,  and  beyond  the  range  of  the  guns  of  the 
batteries,  the  squadron  lay  to,  and  sent  forward  a boat  with 
a flag.  An  officer  was  directed  to  meet  the  boat,  and 
brought  back  a summons  from  Vice-Admiral  Prego,  com- 
mander of  the  squadron,  to  surrender  the  island  immediate- 
ly, or  the  town  would  be  attacked  and  razed  to  the  ground. 
The  messenger  was  dismissed  with  a peremptory  negative, 
and  the  threatened  attack  was  hourly  expected.  Instead 
of  this,  the  squadron  bore  away  ; and  when  at  a great  dis- 
tance, boats  were  seen  boarding  the  Admiral,  from  the  dif- 
ferent vessels,  as  if  holding  a council  of  war.  On  the  fol- 
lowing day  they  continued  at  the  same  respectful  distance, 
cruising  up  and  down  before  Funchal,  while  the  two  insular 
gun-boats  kept  a good  look  out  that  no  launch  of  the  enemy 
should  approach  the  land.  It  was  a misfortune  that  the 
large  gun-boats,  intended  as  a guarda-costa  to  Santa  Cruz 
and  Machico,  required  four  or  five  days’  more  work  to  fit 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


55 


them  for  sea.  They  would  have  been  afterwards  of  impor- 
tant service,  as  the  fleet  had  no  armed  launches. 

While  the  enemy  thus  cruised  day  and  night  before  the 
town,  threatening  different  points,  but  doing  nothing,  the 
English  frigate  Alligator,  Captain  Canning,  arrived  and 
cast  anchor  in  the  road  to  Funchal.  His  coming  was  hail- 
ed with  great  satisfaction  by  the  British  residents.  They 
were  naturally  in  a state  of  considerable  anxiety,  their  per- 
sons and  property  lying,  as  it  were,  between  the  contend- 
ing parties  ; but  the  arrival  of  a British  ship  of  war  at  once 
calmed  their  apprehensions,  as  affording  them  the  means 
of  protection. 

Two  days  after,  the  English  packet  came  in,  having  on 
board  a very  seasonable  though  trifling  reinforcement.  It 
consisted  of  eight  officers,  who  had  acquired  experience  by 
actual  service,  and  among  them  a German  Colonel,  of  the 
name  of  Schawalback.  These  were  distributed  among  the 
troops,  and  commands  appointed  to  them,  as  suited  the  exi- 
gency of  the  occasion. 

After  six  days’  cruising  before  the  town  of  Funchal,  the 
Portuguese  squadron  sailed  for  the  north  of  the  island,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  22d  it  had  totally  disappeared,  hav- 
ing been  deterred,  it  was  universally  supposed,  from  at- 
tempting to  land  by  the  state  of  preparation  in  which  the 
island  was  found,  and  the  spirit  and  determination  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  now  gave  themselves  up  to  unrestrained 
confidence  and  exultation.  So  certain  where  they  that 
the  fleet  had  returned  home,  that  people  went  about  their 
ordinary  business  ; and  several  militia  men,  in  the  employ 
of  a merchant,  were  dismissed  from  military  duty,  and  suf- 
fered to  assist  in  loading  some  ships  which  were  about  to 
sail  with  their  cargoes.  But  at  eleven  o’clock  the  next 
day  the  telegraph  announced  that  the  squadron  was  return- 
ing before  a brisk  and  favorable  breeze,  and  rapidly  ap- 
proaching the  island  ; and  in  about  an  hour  after,  they 
wrere  apprised  by  signals,  and  the  news  confirmed  by  the 
explosion  of  artillery,  that  an  attack  was  made  on  the  for- 
tress of  Machico,  at  the  east  end  of  the  island.  Machico 
is  defended  by  two  forts,  one  commanding  the  entrance  of 
the  bay,  and  the  other  enfilading  it  ; and  as  this  district 
had  been  intrusted  to  Colonel  Schaw^alback,  aided  by  the 
officers  of  experience  who  had  arrived  with  him,  the  great- 
est confidence  was  entertained,  that  the  forts  would  be  ef- 
fectually defended  ; but  as  the  troops  consisted  of  men  im- 


m 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


perfectly  armed  and  unused  to  service,  General  Valdez 
thought  it  expedient  to  proceed  thither  from  Funchal  him- 
self, with  all  his  disposable  force. 

It  was  generally  understood  that  the  Portuguese  had  no 
intention  of  making  a serious  attempt  on  this  point  ; but 
that  they  had  determined  to  return  home  and  report  the 
island  impregnable,  having  first  made  an  appearance  of 
landing,  in  order  to  justify  their  statements.  When  they 
began  to  cannonade  the  forts,  however,  they  were  instantly 
abandoned  by  the  garrisons,  who  were  seen  flying  out  of 
them,  at  the  other  side,  in  the  greatest  terror  and  disorder. 
As  far  as  I could  learn  at  Madeira,  but  a single  shot  was  fired 
from  one  of  them,  and  that  not  by  a soldier.  A mechanic, 
who  had  been  there  and  left  it  with  the  military,  returned  to 
pick  up  something  he  had  forgotten  and  did  not  wish  to 
leave  behind  ; and  seeing  the  enemy  yet  at  a distance,  he 
seized  a match,  and  having  discharged  one  of  the  guns,  he 
again  ran  off  and  joined  his  companions,  who  took  refuge 
in  the  serras  of  the  neighboring  mountains.  The  enemy 
seeing  no  opposition  likely  to  be  made,  now  seriously  de- 
termined to  land  ; their  boats  were  put  out,  and  about  three 
o’clock  in  the  evening  they  were  established  in  the  aban- 
doned forts.  The  ground  between  Machico  and  Funchal 
is  very  difficult,  and  one  point,  called  Porto  Novo,  which 
it  is  necessary  to  pass,  is  deemed  utterly  impregnable. 
Here  then  General  Valdez  determined  to  make  his  stand, 
and  compel  the  enemy  to  re-embark,  after  finding  it  impos- 
sible to  penetrate  in  this  direction.  Three  hundred  men  of 
the  militia  of  Funchal  were  immediately  detached  to  take 
post  at  Santa  Cruz,  but  they  had  to  pass  along  the  shore, 
and  two  of  the  enemy’s  frigates  were  now  lying  there  with- 
in gun-shot,  and  immediately  began  to  cannonade  the  de- 
tachment. On  the  first  discharge  they  also  dispersed,  and 
ran  away  to  hide  themselves  in  the  serras  ; and  before 
seven  in  the  evening  all  the  troops  which  were  collected  at 
Canico,  a central  point  from  which  they  were  to  be  detach- 
ed for  the  defence  of  Porto  Novo  and  other  positions,  had 
disbanded  themselves  and  disappeared. 

After  much  difficulty,  however,  the  General  collected 
some  detachments,  and  sent  them,  with  two  pieces  of  field 
artillery,  to  the  post  of  Pcrto  Novo,  confided  to  the  care  of 
Colonel  Schawalback,  and  the  officers  lately  arrived  ; and 
made  preparations  to  attack  the  enemy  in  the  morning  from 
some  advantageous  point  in  the  serras.  Exhausted  with 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


57 


fatigue  in  making  these  dispositions,  his  horse  died  the  mo- 
ment he  dismounted,  and  he  returned  to  the  city  to  take 
precautions  for  its  security,  where  he  arrived  at  five  in  the 
morning  of  the  23d.  He  found  here  in  the  convent  of  St. 
Francisco,  the  Calheta  regiment  of  militia  and  the  corps  of 
volunteers,  and  having  made  arrangements  to  preserve  the 
tranquillity  of  Funchal,  he  again  departed  for  Porto  Novo. 
He  was  met  on  the  way  by  his  aid-de-camp,  hastening  to 
town,  who  informed  him,  that  the  military  chest  had  ac- 
cidentally exploded  at  that  position,  by  which  Colonel 
Schawalback  and  others  were  severely  wounded,  and  two 
artillery  men  killed,  and  that  the  troops  there  were  in  the 
greatest  disorder.  While  the  General  hastened  to  remedy 
this,  he  met  Schawalback  borne  to  the  town,  his  head 
bleeding,  and  nearly  scalpt  by  the  explosion.  He  had  left 
the  post  in  the  command  of  Major  Figuero,  who  endeavor- 
ed to  sustain  it  ; but  as  the  General  advanced,  he  met  the 
fugitives  flying  against  him  towards  the  city  in  the  greatest 
disorder.  Finding  it  now  impossible  to  take  up  any  other 
position,  without  being  flanked  by  the  advancing  enemy, 
he  withdrew  all  the  troops  towards  Funchal. 

The  town  was  at  this  approach  defended  by  a deep  fosse, 
formed  by  the  bed  of  the  Ribeirao,  a river  which  here  forms 
a torrent  as  it  runs  into  the  sea..  The  banks  of  this  were 
faced  with  massive  walls,  to  confine  the  inundation,  as  I 
have  already  described,  and  on  these,  as  on  a parapet,  he 
disposed  of  his  artillery.  Captain  Canning,  who  happened 
to  be  in  the  town,  was  now  accidentally  passing,  and  the 
General,  willing  to  ascertain  how  far  he  might  still  rely  on 
his  men,  assembled  them  together.  He  harangued  them 
on  the  duty  they  owed  their  country,  and  the  shame  of  fly- 
ing before  so  insignificant  a force  of  traitors  and  rebels. 
He  then  demanded  some  visible  sign  from  them,  and  told 
every  man  who  was  resolved  to  defend  his  city,  to  hold  up 
his  hand.  Immediately  the  whole  seemed  inspired  by  a 
sudden  enthusiasm  ; all  held  up  their  hands  with  cheers,  and 
took  up  their  posts  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  After  this 
scene,  Captain  Canning  proceeded  to  the  Alligator,  and 
there  found  a number  of  officers  who  had  fled  from  the  shore, 
and  were  concealing  themselves  in  different  parts  of  the 
ship,  while  the  wife  and  children  of  General  Valdez  had  re- 
mained behind,  determined  to  abide  the  fate  of  her  husband. 
He  thought  it  right  to  send  these  officers  out  of  his  ship,  and 
they  proceeded  to  join  their  respective  corps  in  the  city. 


58 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  General  having  now  proceeded  to  inspect  his  line  of 
defence,  found  arms  piled  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  but 
no  men  to  use  them.  They  had  retired  to  obtain  refresh- 
ments, as  they  said,  and  on  various  other  pretexts  ; and  it 
was  evident  that  no  reliance  could  be  placed  on  them.  A 
council  of  war  was  therefore  called,  and  it  was  resolved  to 
surrender  the  place  rather  than  hazard  a bombardment,  or 
the  excesses  committed  on  a town  taken  by  assault.  A 
manifesto  was  therefore  drawn  up,  and  sent  round  to  the 
different  authorities  for  their  approbation.  It  notified  to  the 
enemy  that  it  was  not  their  intention  to  make  further  una- 
vailing opposition  ; that  the  people  had  hitherto  acted  only 
under  the  orders  of  the  governor  and  the  constituted  author- 
ities, and  were  not  to  blame  ; and  that  the  General  himself 
was  about  to  retire  and  recommend  that  the  town  should  be 
quietly  surrendered.  In  the  mean  time,  Major  Mitchel,  who 
had  landed  but  a few  days  before,  on  his  way  to  the  Cape, 
and  had  previously  known  General  Valdez,  proceeded  to 
the  residence  of  his  family,  and  requested  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren to  embark  on  board  the  Alligator,  or  some  other  vessel, 
as  a measure  of  personal  security.  She  for  some  time  re- 
sisted all  entreaty  to  abandon  her  husband  ; but  being  now 
informed  of  the  state  of  things,  she  suffered  herself  to  be 
conveyed,  with  her  six  children,  on  board  the  Alligator  ; 
and  about  five  o’clock  in  the  evening  she  was  joined  by  the 
General,  and  the  officers  who  had  arrived  from  England 
but  three  days  before,  to  defend  the  island. 

Besides  these,  many  of  the  principal  residents  and  pro- 
prietors abandoned  the  place,  and  left  all  their  possessions 
behind  them.  Among  them  was  Joao  de  Carvalhal,  whose 
rents  yielded  him,  I was  informed,  an  annual  income  of  more 
than  100,000  crowns,  and  who  was  distinguished  on  all  oc- 
casions, for  his  patriotic  exertions  to  improve  the  state  of 
the  country.  He  was  accompanied  by  Joao  de  Betancourt, 
the  commendador,  and  many  other  opulent  relatives.  The 
town,  when  abandoned  by  these  influential  persons,  was  in 
a state  of  frightful  anarchy  for  some  time,  and  the  English 
residents  were  in  hourly  apprehension  of  a general  pillage. 
Cannon,  loaded  with  grape,  had  been  dragged  through  the 
streets  ; and  a mad  fellow,  in  his  terror  and  alarm,  seizing 
a match,  discharged  one  of  them  at  random  among  his  own 
friends,  before  the  enemy  appeared,  which  fortunately  did 
no  other  damage  than  shattering  some  walls  and  windows, 
gnd  wounding  one  or  two  persons.  An  English  shopkeeper^ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


59 


of  the  name  of  Payne,  who  lived  near  the  place,  was  charg- 
ed as  the  person  who  fired  this  shot  5 but  the  worthy  man 
had  abandoned  his  house  in  town  on  the  morning  of  the  day, 
and  was  at  the  time  with  his  wife  and  family  in  the  country. 

The  Portuguese  now  advanced,  and  entered  without  the 
slightest  opposition,  and  proceeded  to  disarm  the  inhabit- 
ants. They  were  well  received  by  a party  in  the  town, 
whose  first  feeling  was  to  fire  a feu-de-joie  to  welcome 
them.  They  immediately  ran  to  the  batteries,  and  discharg- 
ed the  guns,  without  waiting  to  draw  the  balls,  which  went 
whistling  about  the  harbor  in  all  directions.  No  lives  were 
lost,  but  several  merchant  ships  were  struck  with  the  shot. 
The  succeeding  day  was  past  in  arresting  all  who  remained 
on  shore,  who  had  not  contrived  to  conceal  themselves,  and 
four  hundred  of  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  town  had 
either  fled  or  were  cast  into  prison,  so  that  when  we  walked 
through  the  streets,  some  days  after,  they  were  so  solitary 
and  deserted,  that  we  did  not  meet  a human  being  who 
seemed  of  the  rank  of  a Portuguese  gentleman.  The 
houses  also  of  some  of  the  Constitutionalists  were  assaulted 
and  tattered  5 among  others,  that  of  an  apothecary,  who 
sold  the  u Flor  do  OceanoA  They  entered  his  shop,  and 
broke  all  his  bottles. 

The  Portuguese  soldiers  were,  for  some  days  after,  very 
discontented  at  not  receiving  their  arrears  of  pay,  and  a 
mutiny  was  hourly  expected  to  plunder  the  town  and  pay 
themselves  ; and  this,  it  was  supposed,  would  certainly  have 
taken  place,  had  not  the  consul  of  the  United  States  ad- 
vanced to  their  commander  the  sum  of  three  or  four  thou- 
sand pounds.  The  only  foreigner  implicated  in  the  affair 
was  a person  of  the  name  of  Watts,  the  American,  who  took 
the  command  of  the  gun-boats.  He  was  liberated,  howev- 
er, and  took  a similar  command  in  the  Portuguese  squadron. 
The  English,  with  great  prudence  and  good  fortune,  kept 
themselves  entirely  disentangled  from  the  affair.  Their  ef- 
fects, therefore,  in  the  reaction  and  confiscation  which  took 
place,  were  particularly  respected  ; and  their  houses,  we 
saw,  were  all  distinguished  and  protected  by  papers-  posted 
on  them,  notifying  that  the  concern  was  British  property. 

The  fugitives  from  Madeira  were  fifteen  days  on  board 
the  Alligator,  surrounded  by  the  Portuguese  fleet,  who 
made  frequent  demands  to  have  them  surrendered,  partic- 
ularly General  Valdez.  The  situation  of  Captain  Canning 
was  very  embarrassing.  He  was  placed  between  the  al- 


60 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


tentative  of  seeming  to  interfere  in  concerns  in  which  it  was 
his  duty  to  appear  perfectly  neutral,  and  the  painful  neces- 
sity of  surrendering  unfortunate  men,  who  had  sought  an 
asylum  on  board  his  ship.  He  adopted  the  line  of  conduct 
which  he  thought  best  became  the  station  he  held,  and  the 
nation  to  which  he  belonged.  He  did  not  give  them  up, 
but  availed  himself  of  the  earliest  opportunity  to  send  them 
away  from  his  ship.  The  Jane,  a merchantman,  was  char- 
tered by  them  for  six  hundred  pounds  to  take  them  to  Eng- 
land, and  she  hauled  out  to  a considerable  distance  from 
the  shore.  When  all  was  ready,  he  sailed  through  the 
blockading  fleet,  who  never  attempted  to  molest  him  ; and 
at  night  his  unfortunate  guests,  to  the  number  of  fifty,  were 
embarked  on  board  the  Jane,  and  proceeded  to  England. 

The  promptitude  and  secrecy  with  which  the  expedition 
had  been  prepared  in  Portugal  was  certainly  creditable  to 
the  activity  and  decision  of  the  existing  government  ; and 
the  troops,  before  they  left  the  Tagus,  were  even  exercised 
in  all  the  manoeuvres  of  embarking  and  disembarking,  to 
inure  them  and  render  them  expert  in  the  new  service  in 
which  they  were  about  to  engage.  The  forces,  however, 
amounted  only  to  1600  men,  and  would  have  been  altogeth- 
er unequal  to  the  attempt  of  taking  the  island,  had  the  op- 
position been  at  all  correspondent  to  the  means  of  defence. 
Indeed  it  is  generally  understood,  and  the  Portuguese  of- 
ficers, I am  informed,  themselves  confessed,  that  their  in- 
tention had  been  to  return  from  so  hopeless  an  enterprise, 
after  having  made  a demonstration  of  attempting  to  land. 
They  were  equally  astonished  and  pleased  at  the  non-re- 
sistance they  experienced.  On  the  other  hand,  the  troops 
of  Madeira  were,  with  few  exceptions,  entirely  raw  and  un- 
disciplined, who  had  never  before  heard  a shot  fired  in  an- 
ger ; and  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  packet,  General 
Valdez  and  his  brother  were  the  only  two  officers  who  had 
ever  seen  service.  The  soldiers  had,  up  to  a certain  point, 
made  a show  of  spirit  and  determination,  and  they  even 
talked  confidently  of  availing  themselves  of  the  great  re- 
sources of  the  island,  sending  forces  to  Portugal,  and  so 
making  it  the  arbiter  of  the  fate  of  the  mother  country  : but 
when  they  were  unexpectedly  attacked  at  Machico,  they 
were  confounded  with  the  explosion  of  artillery,  and  seized 
with  a sudden  panic,  from  which  they  never  could  recover. 
General  Valdez,  to  whom  I am  indebted  for  much  of  the 
foregoing  communication,  seems  to  have  omitted  nothing 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


61 


which  was  possible  with  such  troops,  in  the  painful  and  dif- 
ficult situation  in  which  he  was  placed.  All  his  countrymen 
speak  highly  of  his  good  and  amiable  character,  to  which  I 
can  add  the  testimony  of  my  limited  knowledge.  But  they 
say  he  wanted  energy  and  decision  in  the  time  of  need.  It 
is  certain,  however,  that  if  the  troops  had  done  the  duty  ex- 
pected from  them,  either  at  Machico  or  at  the  impregnable 
defile  of  Porto  Novo,  the  Portuguese  would  never  have 
entered  Funchal  ; and  he  would  not  now  be,  with  many  of 
his  countrymen,  exiles  from  their  homes,  and  suffering  the 
extremities  of  distress  in  a foreign  country. 

The  brig  of  war,  the  Infant  Dom  Sebastao,  was  imme- 
diately despatched  to  Portugal  with  the  news  of  the  impor- 
tant event  of  the  capture  of  the  island,  and  illuminations 
were  ordered  in  Lisbon  for  three  days  *.  but  in  the  mean 
time  Dona  Maria  arrived  at  Gibraltar,  which  suspended,  it 
is  said,  the  rejoicings,  and  the  illuminations  intended  for 
the  third  day  were  omitted.  An  expectation  had  been  en- 
tertained that  she  would  have  proceeded  to  Madeira,  had  it 
not  been  too  late.  The  Brazilian  frigate  also,  the  Isabel 
Maria,  had  sailed  from  Falmouth  with  a reinforcement  of 
men  and  officers  on  board.  She  went  first,  however,  to 
Terceira  ; and  when  she  afterwards  arrived  at  Madeira,  the 
island  had  been  more  than  a month  in  possession  of  the 
Portuguese. 


CHAP.  V. 

Prayers  at  Sea. — Superstition  of  Sailors. — Crane  from  the  Canaries. — Gorgad§s  of 
Hesiod.— Maternal  Affection. — Flying  Fish. — Singular  Occurrence. — Cape  Verde 
Islands. — Family  of  Bottle-nose  Porpoises. — Bonitos  and  Albicores. — Suffocating 
Heat,  and  Expectation  of  a Storm.— Calms,  and  why.— Visit  from  Neptune.— 
Unhealthy  Damps.— Cross  the  Equator.— Ceremonies  omitted,  and  why.— Not 
known  when  they  were  first  practised.— Some  of  the  Characters  emblematic.— 
Sun  vertical,  no  Shadows,  and  rapid  Descent. — Life  of  a Sailor  on  board. — Pope’s 
Compass.— Exquisite  Beauty  of  the  Stars.— Southern  Cross — Described  by 
Dante,  Amerigo  Vespucci,  and  Camoens. — Luminous  Sea. — Probably  phospho- 
rescent.—Midshipman’s  Origin  of  Dog-Watch.— Cape  Frio,  and  extraordinary 
Cold. 

Immediately  on  leaving  Madeira,  we  fell  in  with  a breeze, 
which  swept  us  along  all  night  at  the  rate  of  twelve  knots, 
6 


62 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


and  in  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  120  miles  distant 
from  the  island.  We  were  in  hopes  that  we  had  fallen  in 
with  the  north-west  trade,  even  in  this  high  latitude  ; but 
towards  mid-day  the  wind  died  away.  It  was  Sunday, 
and  we  prepared  for  divine  service  on  deck.  A canopy 
of  ensigns  was  raised  over  it  as  a protection  against  the  sun 
and  breeze,  forming  sides  and  a roof.  Seats  for  the  men 
were  ranged  across,  and  over  the  grating  of  the  hatchway 
or  skylight  was  placed  a reading  desk,  in  which  the  chap- 
lain in  his  gown  officiated.  When  the  congregation  assem- 
bled and  the  service  commenced,  the  whole  had  the  solemn 
appearance  of  a church.  The  ship  was  advancing  steadily 
on  the  calm  bosom  of  the  sea,  scarcely  disturbed  by  any  per- 
ceptible motion.  The  rays  of  the  sun  passing  through  the 
colored  ensigns  were  divested  of  their  bright  glare,  and 
stained  the  deck  with  the  subdued  but  vivid  hues  of  many 
colored  dyes.  It  was  the  cathedral  of  Milton, 

u With  storied  windows  richly  dight, 

Casting  a dim  religious  light.” 

The  congregation  was  profoundly  attentive,  and  the 
whole  service  had  an  awfulness  inseparably  connected  with 
the  vast  ocean,  and  the  feeling  that  we  were  immediately 
and  visibly  in  the  presence  of  that  God  u who  spread  out 
the  heavens,  and  compassed  the  waters  with  bounds,  until 
day  and  night  come  to  an  end.” 

With  the  deep  and  salutary  impressions  of  such  rational 
piety  on  the  minds  of  the  crew,  I was  sorry  to  find  still  con- 
nected those  absurd  and  petty  superstitions  which  formerly 
rendered  the  character  of  sailors  so  ridiculous,  and  which 
still  linger  among  them,  while  they  are  exploded  from  every 
other  class  of  people.  I found  that  my  messmates  were  firm- 
ly pei^uaded  of  the  ominous  import  of  four  things  in  a ship, 
and  whose  occurrence  they  considered  as  inevitably  con- 
nected with  disastrous  consequences  : sailing  from  port  on 
a Friday  ; having  on  board  a black  cat  ; and  taking  as  a 
passenger  either  a pregnant  woman  or  a clergyman.  Having 
inquired  from  several  the  cause  of  these  antipathies  to  par- 
ticular things,  so  apparently  inoffensive  in  themselves,  and 
unconnected  with  any  disastrous  effect,  I was  generally  in- 
formed that  they  were  known  to  be  unlucky  ; but  they  could 
assign  no  reason,  except  for  the  last,  and  that  was,  that 
Satan,  being  “the  Prince  of  Air,”  had  of  course  the  direc- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


63 


tion  of  the  winds  ; and  as  a clergyman  is  his  greatest  enemy, 
he  always  visits  the  crew  who  receive  him  with  all  the  in- 
flictions of  his  elementary  agents — calms,  contrary  winds, 
and  storms.  It  will  be  said  that  these  things,  however  ab- 
surd, are  perfectly  harmless.  But,  without  insisting  on  the 
injury  religion  sustains  by  mixing  with  it  such  ridiculous 
and  debasing  notions,  or  inquiring  into  how  much  the  ser- 
vice may  suffer  by  having  the  straight-forward  and  active 
duties  of  a sailor  warped  and  paralyzed  by  an  opinion  that 
he  is  restrained  by  some  inexorable  necessity  which  the  un- 
lucky thing  imposes  on  him  : I must  affirm  that  no  super- 
stition can  be  harmless  which  brings  the  character  and  func- 
tions of  a clergyman  into  disrepute,  and  makes  him  an  ob- 
ject of  suspicion  and  dislike  to  the  people  he  is  appointed 
to  instruct. 

For  the  two  following  days  the  wind  was  variable.  We 
were  approaching  the  confines  between  the  unsettled  breezes 
of  high  latitudes  and  the  steady  current  of  air  which  always 
prevails  between  the  tropics  ; the  sun  moreover  was  cross- 
ing the  equator,  and  his  transit  was  accompanied  here,  as 
well  as  elsewhere,  by  stormy  and  changeable  weather  ; the 
gales  were  generally  from  south-south-west,  directly  in  our 
teeth.  On  the  17th,  however,  we  fell  into  what  we  hoped  a 
regular  trade,  and  proceeded  steadily  along  in  a south-west 
course.  We  were  now  in  the  latitude  of  the  Canaries,  and 
about  90  miles  distant  from  the  Isle  of  Palmas,  the  most  west- 
ern, which  we  looked  out  for,  and  hoped  soon  to  see  on  the 
horizon.  A large  heron  appeared,  sailing  from  the  direction 
in  which  it  lay,  and  soared  and  hovered  several  times  round 
the  ship,  as  if  preparing  to  alight  on  one  of  the  yards.  We 
were  all  on  the  alert  to  seize  this  stranger  if  possible,  alive, 
and  cage  him  on  deck  : but  having  accompanied  us  some 
time,  observing  our  motions  from  his  airy  height,  he  wheeled 
round,  and  like  some  scout  sent  out  to  reconnoitre,  he  re- 
turned to  the  place  from  whence  he  came,  with  the  result 
of  his  observations. 

If  Madeira  with  Porto  Santo  were,  as  I think  probable, 
the  Fortunate  Isles,  lying  off  Mauritania,  the  Canaries 
must  have  been  the  Gorgades,  or  Island  of  the  Gorgons, 
who,  as  Hesiod  and  the  poets  said,  lived  beyond  the  ocean. 
They  were  just  known  to  exist,  but  too  far  to  the  south  for 
any  distinct  knowledge,  and  therefore  peopled  with  a race 
of  beings  of  Fancy’s  creation — “ Gorgons  and  hydras  and 
chimeras  dire.”  Pliny  says,  the  inhabitants  were  women 


64 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


with  rough  bodies ,( hirta  corpora) , and  that  Hanno  brought 
home  two  of  their  skins,  which  were  to  be  seen  at  Carthage 
when  taken  by  the  Romans.  They  were  first  visited  in  modem 
times  by  the  Spaniards,  according  to  Cordeyro,  in  1393,  be- 
fore the  discovery  of  Madeira  ; and  as  Pliny  had  called  one 
of  his  Fortunate  Islands  Canaria,  from  the  multitude  of  dogs, 
they  called  one  of  these  islands  by  the  same  name,  sup- 
posing it  to  be  the  same  place.  The  first  discoverer  found 
the  islands  not  deserts,  like  Madeira  and  the  Azores,  but 
full  of  inhabitants — the  Grand  Canary  alone  having  10,000 
people.  The  women,  though  not  Gorgons,  were  yet  an  ex- 
traordinary race : one  of  them,  hearing  her  son  was  con- 
demned to  die  in  a neighboring  island,  plunged  into  the 
sea  and  swam  across  to  deliver  him  ; — u Love  giving  to  this 
mother,”  as  Cordeyro  says,  u better  wings  than  fear  gives 
to  coward  men.”*  They  are  twelve  in  number,  lying  off 
Cape  Bajador.  The  Grand  Canary  yields  the  wine  called 
sac,  a corruption  of  sec,  dry,  because  produced  from  raisins, 
so  highly  prized  in  England  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  and 
the  beverage  of  Falstaff.  I was  in  hopes  we  should  have 
seen  Teneriffe  towering  to  the  clouds,  but  we  stood  too  far 
to  the  west,  and  could  not  catch  a glimpse  of  it. 

We  had  been  for  some  days  looking  out  for  flying-fish, 
and  we  now  saw  such  vast  shoals,  that  the  surface  of  the 
sea  seemed  alive  with  them  to  a considerable  distance  ; but 
the  greatest  number  visible  was  about  the  ship.  As  it  ad- 
vanced, they  rose  in  large  flocks  from  under  the  bows,  and 
directed  their  flight  from  the  vessel  at  each  side,  as  if  to 
escape  an  object  of  terror.  It  is  probable  that  those  per- 
secuted little  creatures  supposed  it  to  be"  some  voracious 
leviathan,  and  they  sprung  from  it  out  of  the  water,  as  they 
do  from  a bonito  or  albicore.  We  remarked  that  dog-fish 
and  others  swam  close  along-side,  without  any  such  seem- 
ing sense  of  danger. 

The  flying-fish,  ( Exoccetus  exiliens ),  is  distinguished  by 
its  immense  fins,  situated  immediately  behind  the  gills, 
which  it  uses  as  wings  v/hen  it  wishes  to  change  its  element. 
They  generally  flew  forty  or  fifty  yards,  when  they  met  a 
wave,  and  plunging  into  the  bosom  of  it,  disappeared.  A 
few  rose  over  the  crest,  and  apparently  bathing  their  wings 
in  the  spray,  pursued  their  flight  with  renovated  powers. 

* 11  Dando-lhe  melhores  azas  a esta  may  o amor,  que  o temor  at 
alguns  covardes  homes.”  Hist.  Insulana.  Cap.  iii. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


65 


I know  no  object  of  natural  history  more  interesting  than 
a flock  of  stormy  petterels  sporting  among  a shoal  of  flying- 
fish,  and  alternating  with  each  other’s  element — the  little 
bird  descending  into  the  depths  of  the  sea  and  becoming 
an  inhabitant  of  the  water,  the  fish  ascending  to  the  heights 
of  the  atmosphere  and  becoming  an  inhabitant  of  the  air.  It 
is  one  of  those  exquisitely  curious  and  beautiful  links  in  the 
great  chain  of  creation,  by  which  we  suppose  spiritual  and 
we  know  corporeal  beings  are  connected  ; forming  a reg- 
ular and  insensible  gradation  of  existences,  from  the  minis- 
tering angels  below  God’s  throne,  to  the  lowest  mass  of 
unorganized  matter. 

A singular  occurrence  took.place  in  the  evening.  About 
eight  o’clock  a boy  had  got  into  his  hammock,  which  was 
swung  on  the  main  deck,  opposite  a port.  He  was  sud- 
denly startled  from  his  sleep  by  some  living  thing  exceed- 
ingly cold,  fluttering  about  his  breast,  and  finally  nestling 
in  his  bosom.  He  started  out  of  bed  in  affright,  and  search- 
ing his  hammock,  he  found  a large  flying-fish  panting  and 
grasping  under  the  clothes.  It  was  immediately  brought 
to  me  as  a curiosity,  and  I examined  and  sketched  it.  It 
was  nine  inches  long,  blue  and  mottled  on  the  back  like  a 
mackerel,  the  head  scaly,  and  the  mouth  toothless  ; the  bel- 
ly was  white,  flat,  and  angular  ; the  tail  was  unequal,  the 
lower  division  being  longer  than  the  upper  ; the  wings  were 
two  membranaceous  fins,  of  a triangular  shape,  about  four 
inches  long,  consisting  of  eleven  strong  ribs,  branching  off 
from  a point,  dividing  and  subdividing  with  great  regularity 
as  they  expanded,  and  connected  by  a transparent  and  very 
beautiful  membrane,  which  presented  a considerable  surface 
to  the  air.  They  were  attached  to  the  shoulders  of  the 
fish,  between  the  gills,  at  the  apex  of  the  triangle,  by  mus- 
cles uncommonly  strong,  and  of  a solidity  and  tenacity 
very  different  from  the  substance  of  the  body.  I ate  part 
of  the  fish  broiled,  and  found  it  very  good,  exceeding  a 
herring  in  firmness  and  flavor.  The  roe,  however,  was 
very  strong,  and  to  a certain  degree  pungent  and  caustic. 

A rare  and  beautiful  species  or  variety  of  this  fish  is 
sometimes  found  in  the  Mediterranean,  having  four  wings 
or  long  fins  inserted  behind  the  gills  ; the  body  is  a bright 
violet  color,  covered  with  scgAps,  which  easily  come  off ; 
the  head  flat  and  smooth,  and  the  frontal  bone  §o  transparent 
that  the  brain  is  seen  through  it. 

The  apparent  motive  which  induces  this  fish  to  leave  its 
6* 


66 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


proper  element,  is  to  avoid  the  pursuit  of  its  numerous  en~ 
emies,  which  everywhere  persecute  it— -bonitos,  albicores, 
but  particularly  dolphins.  These  last  we  constantly  saw 
bounding  after  them,  and  frequently  out  of  the  water,  their 
bright  green  backs  and  silver  bellies  presenting  very  beauti- 
ful objects.  When  this  pursuit  takes  place  at  night  and 
near  a ship,  the  flying-fish,  like  all  its  finny  tribe,  is  strong- 
ly attracted  by  light,  flies  towards  it,  perhaps  for  protection^ 
and  enters  any  part  of  the  vessel  where  it  may  be  placed. 
Lanterns  are  sometimes  set  for  this  purpose  in  the  chains  : 
and  another  caught  there  was  afterwards  brought  to  me. 
It  was  the  light  between  decks,  gleaming  through  the  port- 
holes, that  attracted  the  fish  to  the  boy’s  hammock,  when 
the  little  creature  accidentally  took  refuge  in  the  lad’s  bosom. 
Had  such  an  incident  occurred  in  the  days  of  Ovid,  no 
doubt  he  would  have  invented  some  mythological  metamor- 
phosis to  account  for  it,  and  have  made  a pretty  tale  of  the 
loves  of  the  sailor  boy  and  the  flying-fish. 

On  Tuesday,  September  23d,  we  were  in  sight  of  St. 
Antonio,  distant  twelve  leagues  east-south-east.  This  is 
the  most  westerly  of  the  Cape  Verde  Islands,  and  the  last 
land  we  are  likely  to  see  till  we  make  Cape  Frio,  on  the 
coast  of  Brazil.  The  Cape  Verde  Islands,  by  some  sup- 
posed to  be  the  Gorgades  or  Hesperides,  though  it  is  pro- 
bable that  they  were  far  beyond  the  geographical  knowledge 
of  the  ancients,  to  whom  the  contiguous  point  of  Africa  was 
unknown,  were  first  discovered  in  1440,  by  Antonio  JVoel^ 
a German,  after  the  Portuguese  had  passed  Cape  Bajador, 
and  began  to  make  discoveries  to  the  southward.  They 
are  ten  in  number,  lying  in  a semicircle  off  the  Cape,  about 
three  hundred  miles  distant.  One  of  the  isands  is  called 
Fogo,  from  the  circumstance  of  a volcano  still  burning  there. 
It  is  in  fact  one  vast  crater,  from  which  smoke  always,  and 
flame  sometimes  issues,  which  compels  the  inhabitants  fre- 
quently to  abandon  it  altogether  from  suffering  or  apprehen- 
sion. One  of  the  small  rocky  eminences  of  the  cluster  is 
called  u Bonito  Reef,”  from  the  great  number  of  bonitos 
found  there.  This  peculiarity  extends  far  to  the  west,  for 
the  sea  in  which  we  now  were,  was  full  of  this  fish,  who 
were  seen  all  day,  and  in  all  directions,  in  pursuit  of  flying- 
fish. 

In  the  evening  we  were  all  on  the  alert,  roused  by  a shoal 
of  bottle-nosed  porpoises  swimming  along-side.  Before 
them  was  an  immense  flock  of  flying-fish,  which  they  were 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


07 


pursuing  ; and  they  swam,  to  the  number  of  twenty  or  thirty, 
just  under  the  bows  of  the  vessel,  which  was  going  at  the 
rate  of  eight  knots.  For  .more  than  an  hour  they  kept  exact 
pace  with  us,  never  advancing  farther  than  a few  yards 
ahead,  and  generally  keeping  directly  under  the  bows. 
There  was  immediately  a soulevement  of  the  whole  ship’s 
company,  and  we  rushed  forward,  armed  with  harpoons, 
and  all  manner  of  weapons,  and  crowded  forecastle,  bowsprit, 
and  spritsail  yard.  It  was  a most  singular  and  exhilarating 
sight  to  view  this  family  of  sea-monsters  running  a race  with 
the  ship,  rolling  and  tumbling  before  it,  and  causing  the  sur- 
face of  the  sea  to  boil  again  with  their  plunges.  They 
seemed  really  animated  with  an  eagerness  to  beat  us  ; and 
when  any  were  left  behind,  they  darted  forward,  with  ap- 
parent emulation,  splashing  along,  more  than  half  out  of  the 
water,  then  turning  their  heads  and  eyes,  and  looking  up 
at  us,  with  an  extraordinary  appearance  of  consciousness. 
They  were  generally  six  or  seven  feet  long,  of  a grey  colour, 
darker  on  the  back,  and  their  snouts  terminated  in  a pro- 
boscis, like  that  of  a sturgeon,  but  much  more  prominent, 
having  the  appearance  of  the  neck  of  a bottle,  and  thence 
called  by  the  sailors  u bottle-nose.”*  After  several  attempts 
with  the  harpoon,  one  was  struck  in  the  side,  and  darted 
forward,  reddening  the  sea  with  his  blood.  We  now  had 
him  suspended  from  the  bowsprit,  and  were  all  on  the  alert 
to  haul  him  on  board  ; but  his  struggles  and  the  weight  of 
his  body  disengaged  him  before  we  could  heave  him  up  ; 
he  plunged  down  and  disappeared,  and  the  whole  family 
followed  him. 

The  next  day  we  were  all  on  the  bowsprit  again,  watch- 
ing a shoal  of  bonitos  and  albicores,  which  took  place  of  the 
porpoises  of  yesterday.  A small  harpoon,  with  four  barbed 
grains,  was  darted  at  one,  which  penetrated  his  body,  and 
wc  hauled  it  on  deck.  It  was  like  a mackerel  in  shape  and 
color,  but  infinitely  larger;  it  is  therefore  called  the  great 
mackerel,  ( Scomber pelamis ).  It  measured  two  feet  long,  and 
one  foot  five  inches  in  circumference.  Its  back  was  dark  blue, 
with  stripes  of  blueish  green  running  along  the  sides,  and 
the  belly  was  a bright  and  beautiful  azure,  changing  its 
hues  into  a variety  of  prismatic  shades,  according  to  the 
incidence  of  the  light.  It  had  two  strong  dorsal  fins,  and 

* Delphinus  leucas;  the  cachelot,  or  physeter  macrocephalus,  is 
sometimes  called  the  bottle-nose  whale. 


68 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


from  the  lowest  a number  of  smaller  ones,  like  triangles, 
continued  down  to  the  tail,  which  formed  a perfect  crescent, 
and  gave  the  fish  a very  unusual  appearance.  Some  junks 
of  it  were  stewed  for  dinner  ; the  flesh  was  solid  and  dark 
brown,  like  the  pelamis,  or  thunny  fish  of  the  Levant,  and 
the  taste  resembled  that  of  a coarse  mackerel.  The  sailors 
call  it  u skip  jack,”  and  tc  St.  Helena  beef,”  where  it  is  sold 
in  steaks  for  about  eighteen  pence  per  pound.  The  albi- 
core  ( Scomber  thynnus ) differs  only  in  size  from  the  bonito  ; 
it  is  considerably  larger. 

On  Thursday,  September  25,  we  were  in  latitude  15°  2^ 
N.,  longitude  26°  27  W.  distant  from  Brava,  the  last  of  the 
Cape  Verde  Islands,  eightysix  miles.  The  thermometer 
stood,  in  the  shade  at  noon,  at  eightysix  degrees,  and  the 
sense  of  heat  was  very  oppressive.  Two  ships  were  in 
sight  ; the  nearest  was  a brig,  which  hoisted  English  col- 
ors, and  was  supposed  to  be  the  Rio  packet,  but  too  dis- 
tant to  speak  to.  Our  course  was,  for  the  last  four  days, 
due  south  on  the  meridian,  making  regularly  a degree  of 
latitude  every  day.  A swallow,  which  for  some  time  had 
followed  the  ship,  now  rested  on  one  of  the  stays,  in  a state 
of  complete  exhaustion  : it  had  been  blown  from  Brava,  or 
some  of  the  Cape  Verde  Islands. 

The  next  day  we  experienced  a dead  calm,  and  a sense 
of  intense  and  suffocating  heat,  though  the  thermometer  did 
not  rise  higher  than  eightythree  or  eightyfour  degrees  ; 
occasionally  dark  heavy  clouds  impended,  and  a portentous 
appearance  of  the  sky,  with  the  barometer  falling.  All 
these  indications  taught  us  to  expect  the  approach  of  an 
explosion  of  wind,  and  we  prepared  for  it  by  reefing  our 
courses.  These  appearances,  however,  though  sometimes 
followed  by  a hurricane,  and  therefore  demanding  every 
precaution  to  guard  against  its  effects,  are  more  frequently 
fallacious.  On  this  occasion  they  were  so  ; the  clouds 
dispersed  in  the  night,  and  the  sun  rose  clear  and  bright  in 
the  morning. 

The  first  object  presented  to  me  on  going  on  deck,  was 
a man  walking  about  with  a yoke  on  his  neck.  It  consisted 
of  a heavy  circle  of  wood,  opening  behind  with  a hinge,  and 
closing  before  with  a padlock.  It  was  another  of  those 
judicious  and  humane  substitutes  for  punishment  which 
mark  disapprobation  without  having  recourse  to  stripes  and 
blows.  On  this  occasion  the  man  had  used  improper  lan- 
guage, and  called  another  by  an  opprobrious  name.  Such 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


69 


attention  to  the  decencies  of  life  in  a ship  seemed  to  have  an 
excellent  effect1;  we  have  not  heard  an  oath  or  a coarse 
expression  since  we  have  been  on  board. 

The  calm  and  light  baffling  winds  still  continued.  We 
had  just  got  within  the  verge  of  those  limits  were  the  north- 
east and  south-east  trade  winds  meeting  cause  dead  air,  as 
two  meeting  currents  of  the  sea  cause  dead  water.  These 
limits  are  supposed  to  extend  to  ten  degrees  on  each  side 
of  the  equator,  and  frequently  disturb  the  wonderful  regu- 
larity which  marks  the  winds  which  prevail  from  these  lati- 
tudes to  the  tropics. 

On  Saturday,  October  4,  we  were  within  two  degrees  of 
the  equator,  and  every  preparation  was  making  on  board 
for  the  well-known  ceremony  ofNeptune  and  his  court  ; and 
returns  were  given  in  of  all  those  who  had  not  crossed  the 
line,  in  order  that  they  might  be  initiated  into  his  mysteries. 
At  eight  o’clock  in  the  evening,  the  watch  were  directed, 
by  the  officer  on  deck,  to  u keep  a good  look-out  ahead;  ” 
for  this  purpose,  blue  lights  were  burnt  on  the  bows,  and 
presently  a boat  was  reported  coming  on  board.  A voice 
was  now  heard  to  hail  us  from  the  sea,  with,  u What  ship, 
ahoy?  ” The  captain  immediately  answered  from  the  quar- 
ter deck,  u His  majesty’s  ship  the  Galatea.”  The  voice 
replied,  u Who  commands  her  ? ” and  we  answered,  u Sir 
Charles  Sullivan.”  u Whither  bound  ? ” u To  Rio.”  The 
voice  then  announced  himself  with  great  solemnity— a I am 
Neptune  ; I have  already  had  the  pleasure  of  your  compa- 
ny across  the  line  ; but  as  I am  not  yet  acquainted  with 
some  of  your  crew,  I must  pay  them  a visit.  To-morrow 
will  be  the  sabbath,  and  it  is  not  my  way  to  break  this  holy  day  ; 
but  I request  you  will  inform  me  when  I may  come  on 
board.”  “ I respect  your  scrupulousness,  Mr.  Neptune,  and 
shall  be  happy  to  see  you  on  Monday  morning,  between 
one  and  two  bells,  when  I shall  introduce  some  children  to 
you.”  a Very  well,  Sir,  very  well  ; I shall  be  with  you;  ” 
and  so  Neptune  departed. 

The  weather  had  for  some  time  set  in  exceedingly  wet, 
with  a dense  close  atmosphere,  generating  a heavy  damp, 
which  saturated  everything  with  moisture,  and  not  a breeze 
was  stirring  to  ventilate  our  berths,  and  dissipate  the  col^ 
lected  humidity.  The  sun  himself,  when  he  did  shine  out, 
seemed  wading  in  mist  ; his  beams  were  sultry,  but  not 
drying,  and  when  his  rays  entered  through  any  aperture  in, 
the  ship,  they  seemed  like  so  many  fenny  exhalations. 


70 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Everything  began  to  exhibit  symptoms  of  this  unwholesome 
state  of  the  atmosphere.  Whatever  could  imbibe  moisture 
became  speedily  covered  with  mould  ; books  lying  on  each 
other  were  in  a fewr  hours  agglutinated  together  by  the  mu- 
cor  which  formed  between  them  ; our  boots  and  shoes  were 
covered  over  with  a green  vegetation,  and  large  crops  of 
fungi  formed  in  every  cavity.  We  ourselves  began  to  feel 
we  were  now  placed  sub  carru  nimium  propinqui  soils;  we 
1 were  generally  affected,  first  with  a sense  of  lassitude,  and 
what  physicians  call  anorexia,  an  inappetence  and  indiffer- 
ence to  everything,  which  was  succeeded  by  some  distinct 
complaint.  Our  young  friend,  however,  was  the  greatest 
sufferer  ; his  indisposition  became  so  alarming  as  to  excite 
the  most  serious  apprehension.  He  had  conciliated,  in  no 
small  degree,  the  good  will  of  every  one  on  board  ; it  was 
pleasing  to  see  the  prompt  alacrity  with  which  the  sailors 
attended,  unbidden,  to  his  accommodation  ; when  he  came 
on  deck,  the  man  next  him  secured  an  ensign  to  place 
under  his  feet,  lest  the  damp  should  affect  him,  and  by  sun- 
dry other  little  kindnesses,  spontaneously  offered,  proved 
that  the  rude  element  on  which  they  lived  had  not  at  all 
impaired  those  kindly  feelings  which  the  sight  of  an  inte- 
resting young  man,  wasting  away  in  the  prime  of  life,  and 
the  patience  and  gentleness  with  which  he  endured  his  suf- 
ferings, tended  not  a little  to  excite. 

Sunday,  October  5,  was  a day  of  heavy  rain,  and  pre- 
vented the  possibility  of  the  men  assembling  for  divine 
service  in  any  part  of  the  ship.  This  prevalence  of  rain 
near  the  line  has  been  remarked  by  most  of  the  early 
navigators.  u And  here  it  is  to  be  noted,”  says  Master 
John  Winter,  u that  after  we  came  within  four  degrees  of 
the  equinoctial,  until  we  were  as  much  past  it,  no  daie  did 
pass  without  great  store  of  raine.”  At  noon,  however,  we 
had  a brief  gleam  of  sunshine,  and  found,  by  observation, 
that  we  were  twentyone  minutes  north  of  the  equator. 
At  eight  in  the  evening  we  crossed  this  celebrated  division 
of  the  hemisphere,  going  at  eight  knots  in  a course  west- 
south-west,  and  cutting  it  at  nearly  the  angle  which  the 
ecliptic  makes  with  it,  and  so  following  the  course  of  the 
sun.  Our  longitude  at  the  time  was  21°  34'  W.  It  is 
usual  to  cross  the  equator  much  more  to  the  west,  as  being 
more  likely  to  afford  an  advantageous  opportunity  of  profit- 
ing by  the  north-east  trade  wind,  which  is  always  found  at 
the  other  side  ; but  by  the  prevalence  of  a south-west  wind^ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


71 


we  came  considerably  more  to  the  east  than  we  intended. 
Is  it  possible  that  our  approach  in  this  way  to  the  pestife- 
rous coast  of  Africa  might  have  increased  the  insalubrity  of 
our  atmosphere  ? 

The  next  day  Neptune  did  not  pay  us  his  promised  visit. 
Our  young  friend  continued  so  unwell,  that  by  common 
consent  the  ceremony  was  omitted,  and  all  disappointment 
was  absorbed  in  our  sympathy  for  the  cause.  Indeed  the 
riot  and  turbulence  of  this  nautical  saturnalia  would  ill 
accord  with  sickness  and  suffering  ; and  many  of  us  were 
well  pleased  to  escape  a custom,  u more  honored  in  the 
breach  than  the  observance.”  The  dramatis  'persona,  who 
were  prepared  on  board  our  ship,  were  Neptune,  Amphi- 
trite  as  his  wife,  and  their  child,  Triton,  two  bears,  a bear- 
keeper,  and  sundry  officers  of  his  court  ; forming  a goodly 
procession  of  fiftyseven  persons,  all  dressed  in  appropriate 
costume;  Neptune  was  to  approach  in  his  chariot  drawn 
by  eight  horses,  and  the  novice  to  be  brought,  in  custody 
and  blindfolded,  before  him.  He  was  then  to  be  placed 
sitting  over  a tub  of  salt  water,  supported  by  a blanket, 
where  he  was  to  be  lathered  with  a composition  of  tar  and 
tallow,  and  shaved  with  an  iron  hoop.  During  this  opera- 
tion he  was  to  be  asked  sundry  questions,  and  when  he 
opened  his  mouth  to  answer,  the  lather-brush  was  to  be 
thrust  into  it,  the  blanket  then  suddenly  withdrawn,  and  he 
plunged  into  the  tub.  There  were  148  persons  on  board, 
of  all  ranks,  who  were  set  down  to  undergo  this  pleasing 
ceremony. 

It  is  not  known,  I believe,  at  what  time,  or  from  what 
cause,  this  strange  custom  originated.  It  is  not  noticed  in 
the  voyages  of  the  early  navigators,  given  by  Hacluyt  and 
others,  though  the  circumstance  of  passing  the  line  is 
particularly  mentioned.  The  first  person  I can  meet  with 
who  alludes  to  the  ceremony  is  not  an  Englishman.  In  the 
reign  of  Louis  XIV.  a Frenchman  of  the  name  of  Frezier 
was  sent  to  visit  the  Spanish  colonies  in  South  America, 
and  published  an  account  of  his  voyage.  He  speaks  of 
the  ceremony  u of  the  baptism  of  the  line  ” as  a silly  custom 
practised  by  all  nations,  and  describes  the  manner  of  it, 
but  without  any  of  the  tar  and  tallow  accompaniments  of 
our  sailors.* 

* “ Le  lendemain  quand  on  ne  douta  plus  d’etre  en  partie  du  sud, 
on  ne  manqua  pas  de  faire  la  folle  ceremonie  du  bateme  de  la  ligne, 
coutume  en  usage  parmi  toutes  les  nations.  On  lie  les  catechumenea 


72 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Among  the  emblematic  or  allegoric  personages  who  issue 
from  the  sea  in  Neptune’s  train,  are  two  bears  and  a bear- 
leader : whether  they  have  any  reference  or  allusion  to  the 
circumstance  of  the  descent  of  North  Pole,  and  the  immer- 
sion of  Ursa  Major  and  Minor  with  their  guardian  Arcto- 
phylax  beneath  Horizon,  and  their  becoming  inhabitants  of 
the  sea  in  this  latitude,  I leave  you  to  determine. 

Tuesday,  October  4,  the  sea  was  again  alive  with  flying- 
fish,  in  all  directions,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  round 
the  horizon.  Some  of  them  elevated  themselves  several 
yards  above  the  surface,  and  continued  their  flight  to  a great 
distance.  One  of  them,  pursued  by  a bonito,  took  refuge 
on  board  the  ship,  and  was  brought  to  me,  panting  and  flut- 
tering like  a bird.  Next  day  our  latitude,  by  observation, 
was  6°  50' , which  being  equal  to  the  sun’s  declination,  he 
was  vertical  to  us,  and,  like  the  wizard,  Michael  Scot,  we 
had  no  shadows.  Another  circumstance,  strongly  illustra- 
tive of  a passage  in  Rokeby,  struck  me  this  evening  ; the 
perpendicular  descent  of  the  sun,  and  the  darkness  which 
rapidly  succeeded,  without  the  intervention  of  our  crepuscu- 
lar light — 

11  With  disk  like  battle  target  red 
He  rushed  down  to  his  burning  bed, 

Dyed  the  wide  waves  with  bloody  light, 

Then  sunk  at  once,  and  all  was  night.” 


We  had  now  entered  the  rapid  and  steady  south-east- 
trade  wind,  which  swept  us  along  at  an  unremitting  course 
of  ten  or  eleven  knots  an  hour.  At  noon  on  the  9th,  we 
had  marked  on  the  board,  since  twelve  o’clock  the  day  be- 
fore, 241  miles,  and  by  observation  250  ; and  for  the  last 
four  days  we  had  passed  over  a surface  of  850  miles.  We 
were  now  within  998  miles  of  Cape  Frio,  and  congratulated 
ourselves  that  we  had  at  length  reduced  our  distance  to 
three  figures.  Our  latitude  was  increased  to  10°  55'  south  : 

par  les  poignets  sur  des  penins  tendus  devant  en  arriere,  sur  le 
galliard  pour  les  officiers,  et  sur  le  pont  pour  les  matelots ; et  apres 
plusieurs  singeries  et  mascarades,  on  les  detache  pour  les  conduire 
les  uns  apres  les  autres  au  pied  du  grand  mat,  ou  on  leur  fait  preter 
un  serment  sur  une  carte,  qu’ils  feront  aux  autres  comme  on  leur  a 
fait,  suivant  les  statutes.  En  suite  on  paie  pour  n’etre  pas  mouille, 
mais  toujours  inutilement ; car  les  capitaines  ne  sont  pas  meme  tout 
a fait  epargnez.’’ — Frczier , Relation  du  Voyage  de  la  Mer  du  Sud  en 
1712.  p.  14. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


73 


so  that  we  had  left  the  sun  behind  us,  and  at  noon  we  saw 
him  in  the  north,  a phenomenon  which  I now  for  the  first 
time  witnessed,  and  which  was  long  unknown  to  the  civil- 
ized world,  and  the  circumstance  deemed  impossible. 

As  we  now  proceeded  with  a steady  course,  and  had  sel- 
dom occasion  to  unbend,  furl,  or  alter  the  position  of  a sail, 
the  men  enjoyed  a perfect  exemption  from  the  ordinary  du- 
ties of  the  ship,  and  did  little  more  than  amuse  themselves, 
in  the  morning  by  varied  light  avocations,  and  in  the  even- 
ing by  music  and  dancing.  The  life  of  a sailor  on  board  a 
king’s  ship  seems,  under  such  circumstances,  a happier  lot 
than  any  other  class  of  the  community  of  the  same  rank  en- 
joys, besides  the  excellent  provision  made  for  all  his  personal 
comforts  in  food  and  clothing.  During  the  day  the  decks 
were  crowded  with  busy  groups  of  persons,  all  engaged  in 
different  avocations  of  industry,  which  amused  and  occupied 
their  time.  After  dark  it  was  a perfect  jubilee  ; all  disci- 
pline was  relaxed,  and  every  man  pursued  whatever  harm- 
less amusement  pleased  his  fancy.  The  main  deck  was  a 
ball-room.  On  one  of  the  guns  sat  a blind  fiddler,  the  most 
popular  man  in  the  ship.  Two  lines  of  sailors  formed  a 
lane  ; and  they  led  one  another  up  and  down  in  the  dance 
with  as  much  zest  and  enjoyment  as  ever  I saw  in  a ball- 
room. On  the  other  side  was  a choir  of  singers,  and  they 
filled  up  the  intervals  of  the  dance  with  their  merry  chants. 
On  the  forecastle  was  a group  of  droll  fellows,  for  whom 
music  and  dancing  were  too  grave.  They  were  perfect 
pickles,  and  indulged  in  all  manner  of  fun  and  frolic  at  each 
other’s  expense.  It  is  surprising  how  habits  of  discipline 
modify  the  actions  of  men.  In  the  morning  they  resumed 
their  duties  with  the  silence  and  regularity  of  clock-work, 
and  again  in  the  evening  all  was  amusement  and  fun. 

My  attention  had  been,  since  the  commencement  of  our 
voyage,  directed  to  a compass  made  by  Pope.  The  needle 
was  a flat  bar  of  iron,  so  attached,  as  to  be  allowed  to  alter 
its  horizontal  position,  independent  of  the  card.  The  ob- 
ject was  to  ascertain  the  dip  of  the  needle  in  the  nicest  man- 
ner. When  we  left  England  the  north  pole  was  depressed 
and  the  south  elevated  ; and  the  inclination  gradually  les- 
sened as  we  decreased  our  latitude.  In  passing  the  equa- 
tor, the  needle  nearly  coincided  with  the  plane  of  the  card, 
and  at  10°  25'  south  it  was  horizontal.  In  advancing  south, 
the  north  pole  of  the  needle  became  elevated,  and  the  south 
pole  gradually  depressed  ; and  this  day,  in  latitude  15°  30', 
7 


74 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


it  was  about  three  degrees  below  the  card.  At  Baffin’s 
Bay,  in  76°  8',  Captain  Ross  found  the  depression  to  be  86, 
within  four  degrees  of  the  perpendicular.  These  phenom- 
ena tend  to  support  the  opinion  that  the  magnetic  influence 
resides  somewhere  near  the  poles  of  the  earth  and  below  its 
surface  ; hence  the  north  pole  of  the  needle  was  depressed 
in  the  northern  hemisphere,  and  the  south  pole  in  the  south- 
ern ; but  at  or  near  the  equator,  it  was  horizontal,  being 
equally  acted  on  by  both  influences. 

As  soon  as  we  had  passed  the  line,  we  experienced  a de- 
lightful alteration  of  weather  ; and  the  damp,  hazy,  sultry 
heat  was  exchanged  for  a dry,  bracing,  elastic  atmosphere, 
a bright  sun,  a clear  blue  sky,  and  a refreshing  temperature, 
in  which  the  thermometer  stood  at  78.  The  constellations 
of  the  southern  hemisphere  were  glittering  brilliantly  above 
our  horizon  every  night,  and  among  them  the  southern  Cross 
was  very  conspicuous,  and  compensated  us  for  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  Bears,  which  were  no  longer  afraid,  as  in  the  days 
of  Homer  and  Virgil,  to  bathe  in  the  streams  of  the  ocean. # 
The  Cross  rose  after  midnight,  and  at  four  in  the  morning 
I went  on  deck  to  see  it.  The  aspect  of  the  heavens  was 
singularly  beautiful.  In  the  east  was  Venus  just  risen, 
with  a brilliancy  and  lustre  which  she  does  not  display  in 
the  foggy  northern  hemisphere.  She  gave  a light  equal  to 
that  of  a young  moon,  casting  a slight  shadow  from  opaque 
bodies  on  the  deck,  and  rendering  objects  very  distinct, 
both  at  sea  and  on  board.  It  was  the  alma  lux  nautis  afful - 
gens  ; and  surely  nothing  could  be  conceived  more  bland 
and  bounteous  than  the  light  of  that  lovely  star.  Orion 
was  in  the  zenith,  glittering  with  his  belt  and  other  appen- 
dages, and  so  bright  with  so  many  smaller  stars  about  him, 
all  now  vivid  and  distinct,  that  he  was  hardly  to  be  recog- 
nized. Among  the  new  objects  presented,  were  the  nebu- 
lae Magellanic®,  or  Magellan’s  clouds,  two  patches  of 
lighter  matter  than  the  dark  blue  sky,  and  which  seemed  to 
be  fragments  broken  from  the  milky-way,  and  floated  to 
this  spot  ; a third  appeared  more  distant  towards  the  pole. 
They  were  fixed,  like  the  constellations,  on  the  starry 
vault,  and  with  them  revolved  round  its  axle.  In  the 
south  was  a vast  cluster  of  brilliant  stars,  many  of  them  of 
the  first  magnitude,  figuring  the  Ship  and  other  constel- 


* “ Arctos  oceani  metuentes  equore  tingi.” — 

Virgil,  Georg.  Lib.  I.  1.  246. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


75 


lations,  and  among  these,  and  well  defined,  was  a bril- 
liant Cross  formed  of  four  stars — the  sacred  Cynosure  of 
the  southern  hemisphere.  The  stars  which  mark  the 
top  and  bottom  have  the  same  right  ascension,  and 
therefore  the  figure  of  the  Cross  is  perpendicular  when 
on  the  meridian,  as  I often  saw  it  afterwards.  In  this 
position  it  is  watched  in  South  America,  and  they  ascer- 
tain that  it  is  past  midnight  when  the  Cross  begins  to 
decline.  This  constellation  was  among  the  first  noted 
and  named  in  the  southern  sky.  Amerigo  Vespucci  saw 
it  ; Camoens  speaks  of  it  as  a new  star,  seen  by  them 
and  no  other  people  ; and  Dante  is  more  explicit.  The 
following  passage  describes  the  aspect  of  the  starry  heav- 
ens, as  I then  saw  them,  so  accurately,  that  it  seems  to 
have  been  written  from  actual  observation  in  the  same 
place  : 

“ The  radiant  planet  that  to  love  invites 
Made  all  the  orient  laugh,  and  veiled  beneath 
The  Pisces’  light,  that  in  her  escort  came. 

To  the  right  hand  I turned,  and  fixed  my  mind 
On  th’  other  pole  attentive,  where  I saw 
Four  stars , ne’er  seen  before,  save  by  the  ken 
Of  our  first  parents.  Heaven  of  their  light 
Seemed  joyous. — Oh,  thou  northern  site,  bereft 
Indeed  and  widowed,  since  of  them  deprived  ! ” * 

* Io  notai  quattro  stelle,  figurate  como  una  mandola. — Letter  of  Amer. 
Vesp.  to  L.  de  Medici. 

“ No  novo  hemispheric,  nova  estrella, 

Nao  vista  de  outra  gente.” — Cameons,  Canto  V. 

t£  Lo  bel  pianeta,  ch’  ad  amor  conforta, 

Faceva  tutto  rider  l’oriente, 

Velando  i Pesci,  ch’  erano  in  sua  scorta. 

I’  mi  volsi  a man  destra,  e posi  mente 
All’  altro  polo,  e vidi  quattro  stelle, 

Non  viste  mai,  fuor  ch’  alia  prima  gente  : 

Goder  pareva  ’1  ciel  di  lor  fiammelle. 

O settentrional  vedovo  sito, 

Poiche  privato  se’  di  mirar  quelle  ! ” 

Dante,  Purg.  Canto  I. 

Some  commentators  suppose  that  the  four  stars  mean,  metaphorically,  the  car- 
dinal virtues  ; but  others,  and  particularly  Porterelli,  say,  they  are  ef  le  quat- 
tro bellissime  stelle  che  formano  una  croce  ; ” and  to  account  for  Dante’s 
knowledge  of  them  they  affirm,  that  Marco  Paulo,  who  returned  from  his  trav- 
els in  1295,  the  year  before  Dante  published  his  Divina  Commedia,  and  lived 
at  Venice  when  Dante  dwelt  at  Verona,  had  communicated  to  him  his  observa- 
tions on  the  stars  of  the  southern  hemisphere.  It  is  remarkable,  that  when 
Amerigo  Vespucci  saw  the  four  stars,  he  supposed  also  they  must  have  been 
those  alluded  to  by  the  poet.  And  indeed  it  is  impossible  that  any  one  who 
viewed  the  starry  heavens  in  this  latitude,  with  the  above  passage  on  his  mind, 
could  imagine  it  was  written  by  any  person  who  had  not  himself,  or  who  had 
not  heard  them  described  by  others  who  had,  seen  them. 


76 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Nor  was  the  sea  below  much  less  brilliant  than  the  sky 
above.  The  waves  came  charged  with  phosphorescent 
light,  and  as  they  broke  against  the  sides  of  the  ship,  they 
opened  into  chasms  of  fire,  so  that  she  seemed  to  move  in 
a surface  of  flame,  leaving  a long  train  in  the  burning  wake 
behind  her.  The  cause  of  this  beautiful  phenomenon, 
which  I have  observed  in  every  part  of  the  world  which 
I have  visited,  is  generally  attributed  to  one  of  the  many 
species  of  lampyris,  or  other  luminous  insects,  abounding 
in  the  water  ; but  I examined  with  a microscope  the  water 
here  and  in  other  places,  and  I never  could  detect  any  liv- 
ing thing  luminous  in  itself,  though  the  luminous  matter 
often  attached  itself  to  fishes,  which  seemed  to  move  sur- 
rounded by  an  atmosphere  of  light.  I should  rather  incline 
to  the  opinion  of  those  who  attribute  it  to  phosphorus  dif- 
fused through  the  water,  which,  as  soon  as  a new  surface 
is  exposed  and  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  air,  combines 
with  the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere,  and  burns  with  a slow 
and  luminous  combustion.  Of  all  animal  substances,  pu- 
trid fish  most  abounds  with  this  property.  In  the  cabins 
of  the  poor,  where  whiting  or  haddock  are  hung  up  to  dry, 
the  light  is  sometimes  sufficient  for  domestic  purposes  with- 
out a candle  ; and  Smoliet  has  availed  himself  of  this  cir- 
cumstance in  one  of  his  novels.  The  water  in  which  fish 
is  washed  becomes  frequently  luminous  from  this  cause, 
and  putrid  spawn  sometimes  yields  the  light  in  great 
abundance.  M.  Bomaire  was  bathing  in  the  harbor  of 
Cette,  in  Languedoc,  with  a friend,  on  a very  hot  day,  and 
they  both  appeared  covered  with  fire  at  every  immersion, 
and  laying  his  wet  hand  on  the  dry  arm  of  his  companion, 
who  had  not  dipped  himself,  the  exact  marks  of  his  palm 
and  fingers  were  seen  in  characters  of  fire.  A circumstance 
of  a similar  nature  occurred  to  myself.  I was  crossing  the 
very  inconvenient  Menai  ferry,  in  North  Wales,  with  some 
ladies,  before  the  bridge  was  built.  The  night  was  very  dark, 
and  the  Welshmen  would  not  allow  us  a light,  though  we  had 
a long  way  to  walk  through  slime  and  sea-weed  from  the 
boat  ; but  the  water,  when  disturbed  by  the  oars,  was  so 
luminous  that  it  lighted  us  across  ; and  when  we  landed  on 
the  weeds,  our  feet  left  behind  us  tracks  of  fire  sufficient  to 
point  out  the  way  to  those  who  followed.  I examined  the 
weed,  and  found  on  it  abundance  of  putrid  slime,  which,  on 
being  disturbed,  yielded  phosphorescent  light.  It  is  not 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


77 


easy  to  conceive  how  agitation  of  water  should  be  always 
necessary,  if  the  light  was  produced  from  any  other  cause. 

I was  this  day  invited  to  dine  with  my  young  friends  the 
midshipmen.  They  were  divided  into  two  messes,  the  lar- 
board and  starboard.  These  were  little  recesses  boarded 
off  on  each  side  the  mainmast,  lighted  by  bulls’-eyes,  but 
so  faintly  that  it  was  necessary  to  have  candles  at  mid-day. 
It  was  so  intensely  hot,  that  we  were  all  obliged  to  strip, 
and  dine  in  our  trousers  and  shirjts.  Our  dinner  consisted 
of  roast  beef,  in  the  midst  of  the  Atlantic,  salt  fish,  and  po- 
tatoes, and  our  drink  was  grog,  of  which  each  person  was 
allowed  half  a pint,  or  two  glasses  of  rum  to  make  it.  My 
young  friends  were  very  temperate,  and  most  of  them 
drank  nothing  but  water.  Notwithstanding  their  rude  and 
primitive  accommodation,  which  I suppose  was  the  same  as 
existed  unaltered  in  the  navy  for  a century,  their  manners 
and  habits  were  not  stationary,  but,  very  unlike  the  rough 
and  uncouth  animals  depicted  by  Congreve  and  Smollet, 
they  were  courteous,  gentleman-like,  and  intelligent,  inti- 
mating that  the  schoolmaster  was  abroad,  on  sea  as  well  as 
on  shore,  and  I derived  no  less  information  than  amuse- 
ment from  their  conversation.  In  explaining  the  division 
of  time  on  board,  they  informed  me  that  one  watch  was  di- 
vided into  two,  in  order  to  make  an  odd  number,  that  the 
same  watch  might  not  fall  to  the  same  persons  every  day, 
and  that  the  two  short  watches  were  called  dog-watches. 
On  inquiring  into  the  reason  of  this  odd  appellation,  one 
said  dog  was  a corruption  of  dock,  because  the  watch  was 
cut  short  ; but  another  remarked  that  it  was  more  probably 
named  dog-watch  because  the  time  was  cur-tailed. 

In  the  evening  they  were  called  up,  and  exercised  at 
furling  and  unbending  the  sails.  One  of  them  lost  his  feet, 
and  it  was  with  infinite  anxiety  I saw  my  young  friend 
hanging  pendant  by  his  hands  alone,  from  the  mizen-top 
gallant  yard,  in  the  imminent  hazard  every  moment  of  being 
dashed  to  pieces  on  deck.  He,  however,  at  last  recovered 
himself,  and  completed  his  task  with  great  dexterity  and 
despatch.  Intelligent  minds,  and  gentlemanly  manners, 
are  not  at  all  incompatible  with  the  rougher  duties,  and 
those  only  are  fit  to  command  who  themselves  have  gone 
through  and  learned  them. 

On  the  loth  of  October,  our  approach  to  land  was  inti- 
mated by  the  color  of  the  sea,  which  changed  from  dark 
blue  to  light  green  5 and  at  twelve  o’clock,  Cape  Frio  burst 


78 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


upon  our  view.  This  bold  headland  was  particularly  inte- 
resting to  us  ; not  only  because  it  was  land,  after  so  long  a 
sojourn  on  the  expanse  of  waters,  but  because  it  presented 
to  us  the  first  view  of  the  new  world,  and  the  vast  continent 
of  America.  It  appeared  as  a high  flat  mountain,  capped 
with  a grey-colored  mist,  having  others  higher,  seen  in- 
distinctly behind  it,  and  a chain  of  hillocks  running  at  each 
side  from  it.  Everything  contributed  to  make  an  approach 
to  this  promontory  delightful,  which  stood  out  as  it  were  to 
invite  us.  The  temperature  of  the  air  was  delicious — the 
thermometer,  in  the  morning,  standing  at  72°,  and  at  noon 
at  73°  ; and  our  progress  was  rapid,  having  made  210  miles 
since  noon  the  day  before.  From  hence  to  the  harbor  of 
Rio,  the  distance  was  sixty  miles  ; and  our  course  was  par- 
allel to,  and  not  far  from  the  shore.  The  coast  was  very 
bold,  high,  and  varied  ; consisting  of  hills  and  headlands, 
clothed  with  wood  to  their  summits,  and  divided  by  deep 
and  romantic  glens.  At  the  base  were  strands  of  snow- 
white  sand,  on  which  the  sea  beat  with  a very  high  surf. 
Several  of  the  hills  were  conical,  but  of  a rude  and  rugged 
outline  ; and  one  of  them  was  called  the  false  sugar-loaf, 
to  distinguish  it  from  the  true  and  more  perfect  cone  which 
marks  the  entrance  into  Rio  harbor. 

Just  as  we  passed  Cape  Frio,  a strong  breeze  set  in  from 
the  sea,  which  swept  us  along  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  knots, 
so  that  we  made,  from  two  p.  m.  to  six,  fiftythree  miles  in 
four  hours.  During  the  continuance  of  this  breeze,  the  ther- 
mometer fell  to  61°,  and  the  sense  of  cold  from  the  sudden 
transition  of  temperature  was  quite  painful.  After  bearing 
it  for  some  time,  shivering  on  deck,  it  became  intolerable, 
and  we  all  went  below,  put  on  our  warm  clothing  and  dread- 
naughts,  and  again  appeared  with  thick  woollen  jackets  and 
trousers,  as  if  we  were  entering  Baffin’s  Bay,  and  not  a 
harbor  under  one  of  the  tropics.  This  sudden  change  of 
temperature  in  this  place  is  very  usual  ; and  some  persons 
at  Rio  afterwards  informed  me  they  had  experienced  and 
remarked  it.  The  name,  in  Portuguese,  implies  the  Co/d 
Cape , and  no  doubt  it  was  given  to  it  by  the  early  naviga- 
tors from  a similar  experience. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


79 


CHAP.  VI. 


Sugar  Loaf. — Lord  Hood’s  Face,  and  Physiognomy  of  Rocks. — Singular  Beauty  of 
the  Harbor  of  Rio. — Villegagnon. — -Repercussion  ofSound  from  the  Hills  round  the 
Bay. — Land  at  Palace-Square.— Impression  of  Slave  Population. — First  Impressions 
corrected. — Negroes  as  Soldiers  ; as  Citizens  ; as  Priests. — Irresistible  Conclusion. 
— British  Merchants. — Barred-up  Windows  removed  by  a Decree. — Rua  and  Tra- 
vessa. — Campo  de  Santa  Anna. — Streets  blocked  up  by  Hills. — Pleasant  Resi- 
dence on  the  Sea-Shore. 

At  six  we  passed  the  islands  of  Pay  and  May,  father  and 
mother,  and  soon  after  were  abreast  of  the  Pao  d’Assucar, 
the  real  Sugar-loaf.  This  very  remarkable  hill  is  perfectly 
conical,  from  a certain  height,  with  sides  so  steep,  and  sur- 
face so  smooth,  that  it  was  considered  impossible  to  ascend 
to  its  summit  ; the  perilous  adventure,  however,  was 
attempted,  and  with  success.  The  vast  cone  is  very 
important  as  a land  mark,  as  it  forms  one  side  of  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbor  of  Rio  ; and  from  its  very  singular  and 
perfect  shape,  cannot  be  mistaken  for  another.  We  were 
now  all  prepared  to  enter  the  harbor,  the  mouth  of  which 
lay  open  before  us,  inviting  an  approach.  We  were  ad- 
vancing with  a steady  breeze  5 but  just  as  we  were  about  to 
enter,  the  wind  suddenly  died  away,  and  the  tide  began  to 
ebb,  so  we  were  obliged  to  drop  anchor.  The  cold  ceased 
with  the  breeze,  and  we  began  to  feel  the  influence  of  the 
coast  : the  stars  were  no  longer  glittering  in  the  clenr  sky, 
but  a hazy  mist  hung  over  us,  rendering  them,  and  every 
other  object,  dim  and  indistinct. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  place  in  which 
we  lay  next  morning,  when  light  rendered  objects  distinct. 
On  our  left  was  a range  of  fantastic  hills,  receding  behind 
each  other  ; those  in  front  rising  into  cones,  and  terminated 
by  the  great  Sugar-loaf.  The  hills  behind,  which  marked 
the  horizon,  presented  a rough  profile  of  a human  counte- 
nance turned  up,  having  a hooked  nose  and  chin,  and  there- 
fore called  by  the  English,  Lord  Hood’s  face,  which  it  is 
said  to  resemble,  as  much  as  the  perpendicular  section  of 
Arthur’s  Seat,  near  Edinburgh,  does  that  of  Lord  Nelson. 
As  the  attention  of  people  is  directed  to  craniology  and 
physiognomy,  they  extract  scientific  subjects  from  rocks 
and  mountains.  Lord  Hood’s  head  is  seen  at  Rio,  Lord 
Nelson’s  at  Edinburgh,  and  Dr.  Johnson’s  on  the  granite 


so 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


rocks  of  Cornwall,  at  the  Lands-end.  The  hills  were  gene- 
rally clothed  with  wood  to  their  summit  ; the  broad  leaf  of 
the  banana,  and  the  feathery  foliage  of  the  palms  crowning 
their  tops,  gave  them  to  us  a new  and  singular  tropical  char- 
acter. 

About  twelve,  the  sea  breeze  sprung  up,  and  we  entered 
the  most  magnificent  harbor  in  the  world.  We  steered 
between  the  Ilha  da  Lage  and  the  point  of  Santa  Cruz, 
through  a passage  about  five  thousand  feet  wide  ; and  as 
there  are  strong  fortresses  on  the  island  and  the  point,  the 
entrance  seems  completely  closed  against  a hostile  force. 
Having  passed  these  points,  the  bay  expanded,  forming  an 
immense  basin,  surrounded  by  romantic  wooded  hills ; 
some  advancing  a considerable  way  into  the  harbor,  others 
retiring,  and  leaving  between  them  deep  recesses  and  glens, 
which  were  filled  with  villas.  On  our  left  was  the  town  of 
Rio,  standing  between  several  lofty  eminences  ; not,  like 
Rome  and  Constantinople,  ascending  over  them,  but  the 
streets  winding  their  way  in  the  valleys  below,  and  church- 
es and  convents  only  crowning  the  hills  above.  In  the  bay 
were  multitudes  of  ships  of  all  nations,  both  of  war  and  com- 
merce ; not  crowded  together,  as  in  our  contracted  rivers, 
but  spread  over  the  wide  expanse  of  waters,  and  dotting  the 
surface  in  all  directions.  In  the  distance  were  the  Organ 
mountains,  forming  a singular  back-ground  to  this  picture. 
These  are  a range  of  granite  pikes,  bristling  up  along 
the  horizon,  and  piercing  the  clouds  with  their  long  sharp 
summits,  projected  on  the  sky  like  organ-pipes  in  a vast 
cathedral,  and  hence  deriving  their  extraordinary  appella- 
tion. I had  heard  much  of  the  beauty  of  this  harbor,  but 
the  reality  far  exceeded  my  conceptions.  It  could  hardly 
be  compared  with  Constantinople,  the  character  of  both 
was  so  different  ; but  certainly  in  grandeur,  extent,  and  ro- 
mantic scenery,  it  far  exceeded  it.  It  looked  like  what  it 
is  likely  to  be,  the  great  basin  of  a magnificent  country, 
which  nature  intended  should  hereafter  become  the  empori- 
um of  the  world. 

Among  the  objects  of  great  interest  that  struck  me,  as 
connected  with  historical  detail,  was  a fort  on  a small  island 
lying  between  us  and  the  town,  called  Villegagnon,  a name 
recalling  to  our  recollection  the  important  fact,  that  the 
first  colonists  of  this  magnificent  part  of  the  new  world  were 
Protestants  ; and,  had  the  man  who  bore  it  been  worthy  of 
his  trust,  it  would  now  have  been  peopled  by  a race  of  men 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


81 


who  would  long  since  have  distinguished  it  by  the  industry, 
activity,  and  enterprise  generally  supposed  to  be  connected 
with  the  progress  of  the  Reformation.  Had  this  attempt 
succeeded,  and  a reformed  population  been  then  established 
in  the  country,  with  all  that  spring  and  energy  of  exertion 
that  has  distinguished  it  in  Europe  and  North  America,  in- 
stead of  this  magnificent  country  and  its  splendid  harbor 
being  sealed  up,  by  intolerant  laws  and  jealous  precautions, 
from  all  the  world  for  two  hundred  and  fifty  years,  it  would 
now  be,  what  it  will  hereafter  become,  the  great  receptacle 
for  the  wealth  and  industry  of  all  nations.  We  have  seen 
what  it  has  done  with  its  available  advantages  in  a few 
years  ; what  will  it  not  do  in  revolving  centuries  ? 

W e were  surrounded  at  our  anchorage  by  ships  of  war  of 
different  nations.  The  French  squadron  consisted  of  a 
ship  of  the  line,  two  frigates,  and  three  schooners,  and  oth- 
er nations  in  proportion.  The  English  was  reduced  to  two 
frigates,  the  Thetis  and  Tribune  ; the  Admiral  was  out  on 
a cruize  to  Bahia.  We  hoisted  the  Brazilian  flag  at  the 
mast-head,  and  saluted  the  batteries,  and  an  exchange  of 
salutes  took  place  between  us  and  all  the  ships  of  war. 
The  echo  caused  by  these  guns  was  very  remarkable  by 
the  repercussion  from  hill  to  hill  round  the  bay.  After  the 
first  loud  explosion,  the  return  of  the  sound  to  the  ear  was 
quick,  short,  and  sharp,  in  different  directions,  so  that  every 
discharge  of  cannon  was  followed  by  several  distinct  mi- 
nor reports,  like  a succession  of  pistol  shots  at  a distance. 
CaptainWilson,ofthe  Tribune,  dined  with  us,  and  I inquired 
from  him,  whether  there  had  been  any  remarkable  change 
of  temperature  at  Rio  the  day  before.  I learned  that  the 
weather  had  continued  uniform,  and  remarkably  hot  all  day, 
so  that  the  very  cold  current  of  air  we  had  experienced 
was  confined  to  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Frio.  In  a country 
where  no  snow,  or  other  frigorific  surface,  exists  to  cool  it  in 
passing,  it  is  not  easy  to  say  how  it  is  generated  in  that  par- 
ticular spot. 

The  bay  next  morning  presented  to  us  a very  busy  scene. 
The  surface  was  a moving  panorama  of  boats  of  all  kinds, 
passing  from  one  side  of  the  water  to  the  other.  They  were 
generally  manned  by  negroes,  whose  only  covering  was  a 
pair  of  drawers,  and  an  old  straw  hat.  The  boats  were 
large,  with  a canopy  astern,  to  shade  passengers  from  the 
sun,  and  they  were  impelled  by  four  long  oars,  rowed  by  the 
black  crew.  I took  a boat  with  some  of  the  officers  of  the 


82 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ship,  impatient  to  set  my  foot,  for  the  first  time,  on  the  shores 
of  South  America.  We  landed  in  front  of  the  palace,  on 
a slip  of  hewn  granite  flags,  and  ascended  to  a quay  prctect- 
ed  by  a parapet  of  the  same  material.  I afterwards  found 
that  the  town  was  surrounded  by  cliffs  of  this  rock  ; and 
among  the  many  natural  advantages  of  the  place,  were 
quarries,  in  all  quarters,  of  the  finest  and  purest  building 
stone  in  the  world.  We  passed  the  Largo  do  Pa^o,  or  Pal- 
ace Square,  and  proceeded  up  the  Rua  Direita,  the  largest 
street  in  the  whole  town,  and  the  centre  of  commerce.  It 
lies  parallel  to  the  bay,  and  from  it  all  the  others  run  at 
right  angles.  Here  is  the  Alfandega,  or  custom  house,  and 
here,  for  the  first  time,  I saw  the  negro  population  under 
circumstances  so  striking  to  a stranger. 

The  whole  labor  of  bearing  and  moving  burdens  is  per- 
formed by  these  people,  and  the  state  in  which  they  appear 
is  revolting  to  humanity.  Here  was  a number  of  beings 
entirely  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a covering  of  dirty  rags 
tied  about  their  waists.  Their  skins,  from  constant  expo- 
sure to  the  weather,  had  become  hard,  crusty,  and  seamed, 
resembling  the  coarse  black  covering  of  some  beast,  or  like 
that  of  an  elephant,  a wrinkled  hide  scattered  with  scanty 
hairs.  On  contemplating  their  persons,  you  saw  them  with 
a physical  organization,  resembling  beings  of  a grade  below 
the  rank  of  man  ; long  projecting  heels,  the  gastronimic 
muscle  wanting,  and  no  calves  to  their  legs  ; their  mouths 
and^chins  protruded,  their  noses  flat,  their  foreheads  retiring, 
having  exactly  the  head  and  legs  ofthe  baboon  tribe.  Some 
of  these  beings  were  yoked  to  drays,  on  which  they  dragged 
heavy  burdens.  Some  were  chained  by  the  necks  and  legs, 
and  moved  with  loads  thus  encumbered.  Some  followed 
each  other  in  ranks,  with  heavy  weights  on  their  heads, 
chattering  the  most  inarticulate  and  dismal  cadence  as  they 
moved  along.  Some  were  munching  young  sugar-canes  like 
beasts  of  burden  eating  green  provender,  and  some  were 
seen  near  the  water,  lying  on  the  bare  ground  among  filth 
and  offal,  coiled  up  like  dogs,  and  seeming  to  expect  or  re- 
quire no  more  comfort  or  accommodation,  exhibiting  a state 
and  conformation  so  unhuman,  that  they  not  only  seemed, 
but  actually  were,  far  below  the  inferior  animals  around 
them.  Horses  and  mules  were  not  employed  in  this  way  ; 
they  were  used  only  for  pleasure,  and  not  labor.  They 
were  seen  in  the  same  streets,  pampered,  spirited,  and  rich- 
ly caparisoned,  enjoying  a state  far  superior  to  the  negroesj 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


83 


and  appearing  to  look  down  on  the  fettered  and  burdened 
wretches  they  were  passing  as  on  beings  of  an  inferior  rank 
in  the  creation  to  themselves.  Some  of  the  negroes  actually 
seemed  to  envy  the  caparisons  of  their  fellow  brutes,  and 
eyed  with  jealousy  their  glittering  harness.  In  imitation 
of  this  finery,  they  were  fond  of  thrums  of  many-colored 
threads  ; and  I saw  one  creature,  who  supported  the  squa- 
lid rag  that  wrapped  his  waist  by  a suspender  of  gaudy 
worsted,  which  he  turned  every  moment  to  look  at,  on  his 
naked  shoulder.  The  greater  number,  however,  were  as 
unconscious  of  any  covering  for  use  or  ornament,  as  a pig 
or  an  ass. 

The  first  impression  of  all  this  on  my  mind,  was  to  shake 
the  conviction  I had  always  felt,  of  the  wrong  and  hardship 
inflicted  on  our  black  fellow-creatures,  and  that  they  were 
only  in  that  state  which  God  and  nature  had  assigned  them  ; 
that  they  were  the  lowest  grade  of  human  existence,  and  the 
link  that  connected  it  with  the  brute,  and  that  the  gradation 
was  so  insensible,  and  their  natures  so  intermingled,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  tell  where  one  had  terminated  and  the 
other  commenced  ; and  that  it  was  not  surprising  that  peo- 
ple who  contemplated  them  every  day,  so  formed,  so  em- 
ployed, and  so  degraded,  should  forget  their  claims  to  that 
rank  in  the  scale  of  beings  in  which  modern  philanthropists 
are  so  anxious  to  place  them.  I did  not  at  the  moment  my- 
self recollect,  that  the  white  man,  made  a slave  on  the  coast 
of  Africa,  suffers  not  only  a similar  mental  but  physical 
deterioration  from  hardships  and  emaciation,  and  becomes 
in  time  the  dull  and  deformed  beast  I now  saw  yoked  to  a 
burden. 

A few  hours  only  were  necessary  to  correct  my  first  im- 
pressions of  the  negro  population,  by  seeing  them  under  a 
different  aspect.  We  were  attracted  by  the  sound  of  milita- 
ry music,  and  found  it  proceeded  from  a regiment  drawn  up 
in  one  of  the  streets.  Their  colonel  had  just  died,  and  they 
attended  to  form  a procession  to  celebrate  his  obsequies. 
They  were  all  of  different  shades  of  black,  but  the  majority 
were  negroes.  Their  equipment  was  excellent  ; they  wore 
dark  jackets,  white  pantaloons,  and  black  leather  caps  and 
belts,  all  which,  with  their  arms,  were  in  high  order.  Their 
band  produced  sweet  and  agreeable  music,  of  the  leader’s 
own  composition,  and  the  men  went  through  some  evolu- 
tions with  regularity  and  dexterity.  They  were  only  a 
militia  regiment,  yet  were  as  well  appointed  and  disciplined 


84 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


as  one  of  our  regiments  of  the  line.  Here  then  was  the 
first  step  in  that  gradation  by  which  the  black  population  of 
this  country  ascend  in  the  scale  of  humanity  ; he  advances 
from  the  state  below  that  of  a beast  of  burden  into  a military 
rank,  and  he  shows  himself  as  capable  of  discipline  and  im- 
provement as  a human  being  of  any  other  color. 

Our  attention  was  next  attracted  by  negro  men  and 
women  bearing  about  a variety  of  articles  for  sale  ; some 
in  baskets,  some  on  boards  and  cases  carried  on  their  heads. 
They  belonged  to  a class  of  small  shopkeepers,  many  of 
whom  vend  their  wares  at  home,  but  the  greater  number 
send  them  about  in  this  way,  as  in  itinerant  shops.  A few 
of  these  people  were  still  in  a state  of  bondage,  and  brought 
a certain  sum  every  evening  to  their  owners,  as  the  produce 
of  their  daily  labor.  But  a large  proportion,  I was  in- 
formed, were  free,  and  exercised  this  little  calling  on  their 
own  account.  They  were  all  very  neat  and  clean  in  their 
persons,  and  had  a decorum  and  sense  of  respectability  about 
them,  superior  to  whites  of  the  same  class  and  calling.  All 
their  articles  were  good  in  their  kind,  and  neatly  kept,  and 
they  sold  them  with  simplicity  and  confidence,  neither 
wishing  to  take  advantage  of  others,  nor  suspecting  that  it 
would  be  taken  of  themselves.  I bought  some  confectionary 
from  one  of  the  females,  and  I was  struck  with  the  modesty 
and  propriety  of  her  manner  ; she  was  a young  mother,  and 
had  with  her  a neatly  dressed  child,  of  which  she  seemed 
very  fond.  I gave  it  a little  comfit,  and  it  turned  up  its 
dusky  countenance  to  her  and  then  to  me,  taking  my  sweet- 
meat and  at  the  same  time  kissing  my  hand.  As  yet  un- 
acquainted with  the  coin  of  the  country,  I had  none  that  was 
current  about  me,  and  was  leaving  the  articles  ; but  the  poor 
young  woman  pressed  them  on  me  with  a ready  confidence, 
repeating  in  broken  Portuguese,  onto  tempo.  I am  sorry  to 
say,  the  u other  time  ” never  came,  for  I could  not  recog- 
nize her  person  afterwards  to  discharge  her  little  debt, 
though  I went  to  the  same  place  for  the  purpose. 

It  soon  began  to  grow  dark,  and  I was  attracted  by  a 
number  of  persons  bearing  large  lighted  wax  tapers,  like 
torches,  gathering  before  a house.  As  I passed  by,  one 
was  put  into  my  hand  by  a man  who  seemed  in  some  au- 
thority, and  I was  requested  to  fall  into  a procession  that  was 
forming.  It  was  the  preparation  for  a funeral,  and  on  such 
occasions,  I learned  that  they  always  request  the  attend- 
ance of  a passing  stranger,  and  feel  hurt  if  they  are  re- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


85 


fused.  I joined  the  party,  and  proceeded  with  them  to  a 
neighboring  church.  When  we  entered  we  ranged  our- 
selves on  each  side  of  a platform  which  stood  near  the 
choir,  on  which  was  laid  an  open  coffin,  covered  with  pink 
silk  and  gold  borders.  The  funeral  service  was  chanted  by 
a choir  of  priests,  one  of  whom  was  a negro,  a large  comely 
man,  whose  jet  black  visage  formed  a strong  and  striking 
contrast  to  his  white  vestments.  He  seemed  to  perform 
his  part  with  a decorum  and  sense  of  solemnity,  which  I did 
not  observe  in  his  brethren.  After  scattering  flowers  on 
the  coffin,  and  fumigating  it  with  incense,  they  retired,  the 
procession  dispersed,  and  we  returned  on  board. 

I had  been  but  a few  hours  on  shore,  for  the  first  time, 
and  I saw  an  African  negro  under  four  aspects  of  society; 
and  it  appeared  to  me,  that  in  every  one  his  character  de- 
pended on  the  state  in  which  he  was  placed,  and  the  esti- 
mation in  which  he  was  held.  As  a despised  slave,  he  was 
far  lower  than  other  animals  of  burthen  that  surrounded 
him  ; more  miserable  in  his  look,  more  revolting  in  his 
nakedness,  more  distorted  in  his  person,  and  apparently  more 
deficient  in  intellect  than  the  horses  and  mules  that  passed 
him  by.  Advanced  to  the  grade  of  a soldier,  he  wras  clean 
and  neat  in  his  person,  amenable  to  discipline,  expert 
at  his  exercises,  and  showed  the  port  and  being  of  a white 
man  similarly  placed.  As  a citizen,  he  was  remarkable 
for  the  respectability  of  his  appearance,  and  the  decorum 
of  his  manners  in  the  rank  assigned  him  ; and  as  a priest, 
standing  in  the  house  of  God,  appointed  to  instruct  society  on 
their  most  important  interests,  and  in  a grade  in  which  moral 
and  intellectual  fitness  is  required,  and  a certain  degree  of 
superiority  is  expected,  he  seemed  even  more  devout  in  his 
impressions,  and  more  correct  in  his  manners,  than  his 
white  associates.  I came,  therefore,  to  the  irresistible 
conclusion  in  my  mind,  that  color  was  an  accident  affect- 
ing the  surface  of  a man,  and  having  no  more  to  do  with  his 
qualities  than  his  clothes — that  God  had  equally  created  an 
African  in  the  image  of  his  person,  and  equally  given  him 
an  immortal  soul  ; and  that  an  European  had  no  pretext  but 
his  own  cupidity,  for  impiously  thrusting  his  fellow-man 
from  that  rank  in  the  creation  which  the  Almighty  had  as- 
signed him,  and  degrading  him  below  the  lot  of  the  brute 
beasts  that  perish. 

The  next  day  I visited  Mr.  Price,  an  intelligent  English 
merchant  to  whom  I had  letters.  He  lived  in  the  Rua  dog 
8 


86 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL, 


Pescadores,  or  Fisherman’s  street,  because  it  was  original- 
ly inhabited  by  some  of  this  class  when  the  sea  came  up  to 
their  doors.  His  house  was  large  and  massive,  built  of  hewn 
stone  ; and  as  it  was  a representative  of  all  the  houses  of 
the  British  merchants,  I will  briefly  describe  it.  Below 
was  a large  shop,  or  store,  filled  with  all  kinds  of  goods  : 
between  it  and  the  main  wall,  was  a long  narrow  entry  to  a 
flight  of  stone  stairs,  which  led  to  the  second  floor,  in  which 
was  a large  apartment,  half  of  it  appropriated  to  the  purposes 
of  an  office,  and  the  other  half  filled  with  boots,  saddles,  hats, 
and  other  articles  of  English  manufacture.  He  invited  me 
to  dine  with  him  at  two  o’clock,  and  on  my  return  at  that 
hour,  I found  all  the  streets  deserted,  the  houses  closed  up, 
and  the  whole  town  in  this  commercial  part,  like  a city  of 
the  dead — as  silent  and  solitary  at  mid-day  as  at  mid-night. 
All  the  inhabitants  were  at  their  dinner,  or  taking  their 
siesta  ; and  during  that  time  all  business  is  suspended  : 
every  place  below  was  shut  up,  so  I made  my  way  to  the 
top  of  the  house.  Here  I found  Mr.  Price  and  his  fami- 
ly assembled.  I returned  with  my  host  to  his  apartment, 
and  dressed  for  dinner,  by  taking  off  my  coat,  and  putting 
on  a calico  jacket  ; and  this  preparatory  luxury  is  part  of 
the  entertainment  a Brazilian  host  always  provides  for  his 
guests  as  regular  as  napkins. 

In  the  evening  I proceeded  along  the  Rua  dos  Pesca- 
dores, to  where  it  terminated  in  a large  open  square,  called 
the  Campo  de  St.  Anna.  The  shops  were  again  opened, 
and  filled  with  all  kinds  of  European  merchandize,  particu- 
larly Manchester  shawls,  handkerchiefs,  cottons  and  calicoes 
of  the  most  showy  color,  broadcloths,  silks,  hats,  boots, 
shoes,  and  stockings,  all  hung  out  in  front  of  the  houses, 
and  covering  the  doors  and  windows  with  their  rich  drapery. 
These  things  were  sent  out  in  such  profusion,  and  the 
market  was  so  overstocked,  that  they  were  selling  in  the 
Rua  dos  Pescadores  for  less  money  than  in  Cheapside. 

Having  passed  the  shops,  I arrived  at  that  part  of  the 
street  towards  the  country,  where  no  business  was  carried 
on.  The  solitude  and  seclusion  of  the  houses  were  strik- 
ingly contrasted.  The  windows  were  barred  up  like  those 
of  the  Turks,  with  lattices  of  close  cross-barred  laths,  which 
scarcely  admitted  the  light,  and  through  which  it  was  impos- 
sible to  see  or  to  be  seen.  These  were  suspended  from  above 
by  a hinge,  and  opened  from  below,  and  when  any  of  the  in- 
mates wish  to  look  out,  they  thrust  their  heads  against  them, 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


87 


and  push  them  forward.  In  almost  every  house  as  I went 
along  I saw  some  woman’s  forehead  pressed  on  this  blind  ; 
and  in  the  opening  was  a black,  brown,  or  sallow  visage, 
with  dark  eyes,  gleaming  obliquely  through  the  aperture, 
one  up  and  the  other  down  the  street.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  court,  the  windows  of  all  the  houses  of  the  town  were 
hung  with  these  gelosias , projecting  into  the  narrow  streets 
when  opened,  and  intercepting  the  passage  ; but  an  edict 
was  then  published,  that  as  Rio  was  elevated  to  a high  des- 
tiny, it  should  show  its  sense  of  it,  by  abolishing  all  its 
gothic  customs,  and  assimilating  itself  to  the  improvements 
of  Europe  : that  those  barred  up  windows  were  as  unwhole- 
some, as  they  were  barbarous  and  unseemly,  by  interrupt- 
ing the  free  current  of  air  : that,  therefore,  within  six 
months,  they  should  all  be  removed,  except  from  clay-built 
houses.  This  edict  had  the  desired  effect,  and  they  have 
now  disappeared,  except  from  the  low  edifices  of  this  de- 
scription, in  the  remote  streets. 

The  aspect  of  the  streets  was  extraordinary  ; they  were 
narrow,  and  crossed  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  were 
called  Rua  and  Travessa.  The  Rua  commenced  on  the 
shore  of  the  bay,  and  ran  in  a right  line  till  it  terminated  in  a 
large  open  space  inland.  The  Travessa,  or  cross  street,  was 
closed  up  by  two  ranges  of  hills,  so  that  when  I stood  at  the 
angle  of  crossing,  and  looked  both  ways,  I saw  at  the  ex- 
tremities of  one,  the  sea  and  the  country  ; and  at  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  other,  the  abrupt  face  of  two  steep  rocks. 
If  the  defile  in  which  this  most  opulent  and  populous,  as 
well  as  largest  portion  of  the  town  is  crammed,  lay  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  bay,  it  would  be  ventilated  continually  by  al- 
ternate currents  of  air,  caused  by  the  regular  land  and  sea 
breezes  ; but  unfortunately  it  lies  across  it,  and  every  breath 
of  passing  wind  is  interrupted  by  the  two  ridges  of  hills  that 
cut  their  course. 

On  emerging  from  this  suffocating  gorge,  I found  myself 
in  an  open  plain,  into  which  all  the  streets  leading  from  the 
sea  debouche  ; and  I perceived  that  the  land  views  of  this 
magnificent  country  were  equal  to  those  of  the  coast.  The 
plain  was  nearly  surrounded  by  a vast  amphitheatre  of 
mountains  ; their  bases  were  sloping  lawns  of  the  richest 
verdure,  terminated  by  belts  of  forest  trees  of  immense 
growth  and  variety,  from  which  issued  their  summits,  rug- 
ged and  shaped  in  all  varieties  of  form  ; some  ridged,  some 
peaked,  and  some  abruptly  bent.  One  of  these  latter  is 


88 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


called,  from  its  very  extraordinary  and  fantastic  shape,  the 
Corcovado,  or  broken  back  ; an  appellation  which  it  well 
deserves.  On  advancing  into  this  plain,  I found  it  was  en- 
closed with  houses,  so  as  to  form  an  enormous  quadrangle, 
among  which  was  the  senate-house,  the  museum,  the  camera, 
or  town-hall,  and  other  public  buildings.  It  is,  therefore, 
secured  from  further  encroachment,  and  reserves  to  the  capi- 
tal of  Brazil  the  boast  of  possessing  perhaps  the  largest 
square  in  the  world.  It  had  been  called  the  Campo  de  St.  An- 
na, but  its  name  was  changed  to  the  Campo  d’Acclamaqao, 
and  it  is  sacred  to  the  Brazilians,  as  some  of  the  most  impor- 
tant events  of  their  revolution  were  transacted  upon  it. 

The  first  impressions  of  the  town  of  Rio  were  very  favor- 
able. The  streets,  though  narrow,  were  well  paved,  and 
generally  lined  at  each  side  by  flagged  trottoirs,  as  wide  as 
the  space  would  admit.  The  houses  were  massive,  built  of 
granite,  with  the  windows  and  doors  cased  with  hewn 
blocks  of  this  stone,  which  the  quarries  at  the  end  of  every 
street  supply  in  abundance,  of  the  finest  quality.  It  is 
among  the  happy  immunities  of  the  country,  that  it  is  not 
liable  to  the  accidents  which  occur  in  a similar  latitude  on 
the  other  side  of  the  continent.  Earthquakes  are  unknown, 
and  no  danger  is  ever  apprehended  from  the  prostration  of 
heavy  or  lofty  buildings.  The  houses  are  neat,  kept  in 
good  order.  The  streets  are  clean,  and  there  are  no  offals 
or  offensive  smells  intruded  on  the  senses  of  the  passengers. 

The  house  taken  for  our  residence  was  entirely  at  the  end 
of  the  city,  and  at  a considerable  distance.  The  passing 
from  one  place  to  another  in  Rio,  is  not  in  a direct  line; 
mountains  literally  intervene  between  one  street  and  ano- 
ther ; and,  as  you  cannot  climb  over  their  summits,  you 
must  wind  round  their  bases.  A range  of  these  hills  ap- 
proaches so  close  to  the  sea,  as  to  leave  only  a narrow  way 
between  them  and  the  water.  Beyond  is  another  open  space 
of  level  ground,  somewhat  similar  to  thad  which  I have  de- 
scribed, and  called  Catete,  on  which  a new  town  has  been 
built.  A street,  with  houses  on  one  side,  and  open  to  the 
sea  on  the  other,  connects  them  both  ; and  in  this  was 
our  residence.  The  house  belonged  to  a gentleman  who 
had  been  an  officer  in  the  British  navy,  but  had  changed 
the  service  ; and  from  the  rank  of  lieutenant,  was  promoted 
to  that  of  commodore  in  the  Brazilian  service.  His  house 
corresponded  with  his  station,  and  was  fit  for  the  residence 
of  an  Ambassador  in  Brazil.  Indeed,  had  it  been  worse,  it 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


89 


would  not  have  been  easy  to  procure  a better.  It  stood  at 
the  base  of  a rock,  which  overhung  it  with  its  pendent  vege- 
tation : before  it  was  the  sea,  immediately  under  the  win- 
dows, where  the  waves  continually  rolled  on  a bed  of  fine 
white  sand,  forming  a little  bay,  terminated  by  the  beautiful 
promontory  of  Gloria,  its  summit  crowned  with  its  ornament- 
al church,  and  its  sides  dotted  with  villas.  Opposite  were 
the  romantic  highlands,  which  formed  the  east  side  of  the 
bay,  projecting  and  retiring,  with  their  forest-covered  sides, 
clothed  in  eternal  verdure  ; sometimes  smiling  in  the  sun,  and 
sometimes  veiled  in  dense  mists,  which  displayed  an  infinite 
variety  of  light  and  shade,  as  they  rolled  over  them.  The  ex- 
panse of  water  between,  was  an  ever-moving  surface  of  ships, 
entering  or  leaving  the  harbor,  with  the  morning  and  evening 
winds.  In  this  spot,  ventilated  by  the  wholesome  breezes, 
animated  by  the  lovely  scenery,  we  were  in  hopes  our  young 
friend  would  soon  be  restored  to  health. 

Having  now  ample  leisure  and  opportunities  for  inquiry, 
I made  myself  acquainted  with  the  particulars  of  many 
events,  of  which  I had,  in  Europe,  but  indistinct  or  incor- 
rect information.  It  may  be  satisfactory,  therefore,  to  give 
you  a brief  detail  of  the  principal  circumstances  which  oc- 
curred in  this  place  since  its  discovery,  up  to  the  time  of  our 
arrival  ; particularly  of  those  which  took  place  from  the  emi- 
gration of  the  court  of  Portugal,  comprehending  the  transition 
of  the  country  to  independence,  and  the  formation  of  its 
present  constitution. 


CHAP.  VII. 

Discovery  of  the  Country  by  Cabral. — Name  changed  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Brazil, 
why. — Harbor,  why  called  Rio. — Colony  of  French  Hugonots,  the  First  Europe- 
an Inhabitants. — Expellod  by  the  Portuguese. — First  City  built  outside  the  Har- 
bor.-*-Called  S.  Sebastiao,  why. — Present  Site  very  unpromising  in  its  primitive 
State. — Ecclesiastics  avail  themselves  of  the  best  Situations. — Second  Invasion  of 
the  French. — Third  under  Du  Guay  Trouim. — Rio  made  the  Capital  of  Brazil. — 
Idea  of  removing  the  Seat  of  Government  from  Portugal  entertained  by  Pombal. — 
Revived  and  carried  into  Effect. — First  Impression  of  the  News  on  the  Brazil- 
ians. 

The  discovery  of  Brazil  was  an  accident.  In  1499,  Vas- 
co de  Gama  returned  to  Europe  with  the  certainty  of 

8* 


90 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


having  found  out  the  long  sought  for  navigation  to  India  ; 
and  Emanuel,  king  of  Portugal,  in  the  following  year  des- 
patched an  armada  of  ten  caravels,  and  three  ships,  carry- 
ing twelve  hundred  persons,  under  the  command  of  Pedral- 
vez  Cabral,  to  form  a treaty  of  commerce  with  the  king  of 
Callicut.  The  squadron,  in  order  to  avoid  the  calms  of  the 
coast  of  Africa,  stood  a considerable  way  to  the  west,  and, 
at  the  end  of  April,  being  in  seventeen  degrees  of  south 
latitude,  he  was  astonished  at  seeing  certain  plants  floating, 
which  he  considered  as  indications  of  land  ; on  the  next 
day,  towards  evening,  he  observed  a large  mountain,  with 
other  smaller  ones,  on  the  horizon,  and,  as  it  was  on  the 
octave  of  Easter,  he  called  the  highland  the  Pascal  moun- 
tain. On  the  3d  of  May  he  landed  at  Porto  Seguro,  the 
day  dedicated  to  the  holy  cross  ; and  having  erected  one 
on  shore,  and  said  mass  under  it,  he  called  the  country  for 
that  reason,  u Terra  Nova  da  Yera  Cruz,”  or  the  New 
Land  of  the  Holy  Cross,  and  this  was  the  name  by  which 
only  it  was  known  to  Camoens.# 

The  country  was  found  to  produce,  in  great  abundance 
in  the  forests,  a tree  long  known  in  Europe  as  a valuable 
dye,  whose  wood  resembled  Are,  and  was  thence  called 
Pao  Brases.  The  first  cargo  of  this  wood  was  sent  to  Eu- 
rope from  Pernambuco,  or,  as  it  was  then  called,  Fernam- 
buco,  by  Dias  Solis,  in  1515.  It  was  generally  sought  for 
from  that  time  as  an  article  of  commerce,  and  was  sometimes 
known  by  the  name  of  Fernambuc,  from  the  district  of  Brazil 
from  whence  it  was  brought.  In  process  of  time,  the  wood 
gave  its  name  to  the  country  that  produced  it,  and  the  ap- 
pellation of  Vera  Cruz  was  insensibly  lost  in  that  of  Brazes 
or  Brazil.  “ The  unworthy  traffic,”  as  the  Jesuits  call  it, 
of  this  name,  was  pathetically  lamented  by  them  ; “ that  the 
cupidity  of  man  should  change  the  wood  of  the  cross,  red 
with  the  real  blood  of  Christ,  for  that  of  another  wood  which 
resembled  it  only  in  color.”  f 

* “co  o pao  vermelho  nota, 

Da  Sancta  Cruz  o nome  lhe  poreis.” 

Cam.  Cant.  X.  v.  140. 

t “ O terceiro  nome  foi  o de  Brazil,  era  que  fez  troca  a cobiqa  de 
quelles,  que  depois  vieiao  ao  tratto  do  pao  q’agora  chamao  deste  nome. 
Nao  sera  algum  abatiinento  do  primeiro,  substituendoze  aq’lle  Madeiro, 
vermellio  come  sangue  do  Christo  et  proqo  da  nossa  Redempqao, 
outro  Madeiro  que  so  tem  de  sangue  o cor.  Com  rezao  se  queixadesta 
muctacao  o historiador  Portuguez.” — Chron.  da  Compan.  deJesu.:  do 
estad  do  Brazil,  p.  133. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


91 


The  harbor  of  Rio  was  discovered  on  the  1st  of  January, 
1531,  by  Martin  Alphonso  de  Souza.  It  was  called  by  the 
natives  Nitherohy  ; but  he,  supposing,  at  the  first  view,  that 
the  fine  expanse  of  water  was  only  the  estuary  of  some  great 
river,  like  the  mouth  of  the  Amazons,  or  Oronoko,  called  it 
the  Rio  de  Janeiro,  or  River  of  January,  from  the  first  day  of 
the  month  of  the  new  year  on  which  he  discovered  it.  This 
very  improper  name  the  bay  still  retains,  though  it  is 
not  given  to  any  of  the  numerous  small  streams  that  fall 
into  it  ; and  the  absurd  supposition  of  its  being  a river  is 
still  kept  up  in  the  epithets  applied  to  everything  connected 
with  it.  One  of  the  newspapers  published  here  is  named 
Aurora  Fluminense,  and  the  citizens  are  called  Flumi- 
nenses,  appellations  which  I was  at  first  at  a loss  to  account 
for. 

This  fine  harbor,  however,  remained  for  many  years  un- 
noticed, or  unoccupied,  by  the  Portuguese,  till  their  atten- 
tion was  directed  to'  it  by  other  nations,  who  wished  to  take 
possession  of  it.  In  the  year  1558,  Nicholas  Villegagnon, 
a man  of  Provence,  in  France,  and  a knight  of  Malta,  was 
high  in  the  naval  service  of  that  country,  and  he  was  select- 
ed to  effect  an  object  which  the  French  were  eager  to  ac- 
complish. This  was  to  obtain  territory  in  South  America, 
and  Villegagnon  was  sent  out  to  take  possession  of  this  un- 
occupied harbor,  the  region  about  which  was  to  be  called 
Antarctic  France.  He  accordingly  entered  the  bay,  and 
established  himself  on  the  small  island  before  mentioned, 
which  still  bears  his  name.  It  was  now  determined  to 
make  this  country  an  asylum  for  Hugonots,  and  the  leaders 
of  that  party  in  France  used  every  effort  to  promote  it. 
Among  these  was  the  celebrated  Admiral  Coligny,  and  the 
fortress  erected  on  the  island  was  called  after  his  name. 
A colony  of  Protestants  was  collected,  and  sent  out  from 
F ranee,  and  placed  under  his  protection.  Two  clergymen  of 
that  persuasion  were  selected  at  Geneva,  with  fourteen  stu- 
dents in  divinity,  to  act  as  pastors  for  the  present,  and  sup- 
ply them  to  future  congregations  as  they  should  be  wanted. 
There  was,  therefore,  every  reason  to  hope,  that  the  Re- 
formation would  take  root  here,  and  in  process  of  time  fill 
the  south  as  well  as  the  north  of  the  new  world  with  a Pro- 
testant people.  But  Villegagnon  seems  to  have  been  ut- 
terly unworthy  of  his  trust.  He  commenced  a persecution 
against  these  unfortunate  men,  who  had  left  their  own  coun- 
try for  conscience  sake,  till  he  drove  many  of  them  from 


92 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


this  place  also.  Some  requested  permission  to  return  to  Eu- 
rope, and  he  provided  a vessel  so  badly  found,  that  they 
refused  to  embark,  and  were  persecuted  to  death  on  the 
island. 

Meanwhile  the  Portuguese,  jealous  of  this  encroach- 
ment, and  alarmed  at  the  progress  of  these  strangers  of  the 
new  faith  in  the  country,  sent  an  armament  from  Bahia,  to 
dispossess  them,  under  Mendo  or  Mem  da  Sa.  Weakened, 
it  should  appear,  by  their  intestine  dissensions,  the  garrison 
were  not  able  to  make  an  effectual  resistance  to  the  Portu- 
guese. They  were  driven,  therefore,  from  their  island,  and 
the  fortress  was  taken  and  demolished.  The  remnant  of  the 
Protestant  garrison  retired  to  the  continent,  and  were  well 
received  by  the  Tamoyas  Indians,  with  whom  they  had 
formed  an  alliance,  and  they  established  themselves  outside 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  just  under  the  Pao  d’Assucar, 
or  the  Sugar  Loaf ; and  here  they  maintained  themselves  by 
new  accessions  of  people  from  Europe  for  ten  years.  But 
in  1565,  the  Portuguese  again  set  out,  with  a more  power- 
ful force,  from  Bahia,  and  landing  at  all  the  intermediate 
capitanias  on  the  coast,  offered  to  transport  gratuitously  all 
persons,  with  their  effects,  who  wished  to  form  a new  colony 
at  Rio.  With  this  accession  they  again  entered  the  har- 
bor, and  after  a struggle  of  two  years  more  with  the  Hu- 
gonots,  took  their  forts  of  Urussumiri  and  Paranapucue, 
completely  extirpated  the  colony,  and  crushed  the  hopes 
of  the  Protestants  of  Europe  of  seeing  the  Reformation  es- 
tablished in  this  part  of  the  new  world. 

The  Portuguese  colonists  erected  their  first  edifices  on 
the  ground  lying  between  the  Pao  d’Assucar  and  the  Morro 
of  S.  Joao,  now  one  of  the  fortresses  which  defend  the  en- 
trance at  the  harbor.  This  was  called  the  Villa  Velha,  or 
the  Old  City  ; but  I could  not  find  that  a vestige  of  the 
houses  are  traceable  at  this  day.  In  the  year  1567,  Cath- 
erine, who  governed  the  kingdom  as  regent  during  the  mi- 
nority of  Sebastiao,  directed  that  ar  city  should  be  built  on 
. the  spot  where  it  now  stands,  and  called  S.  Sebastiao,  as 
well  in  honor  of  the  young  king,  her  grandchild,  who  was 
then  thirteen  years  old,  as  of  the  saint  of  that  name,  whom 
Mem  da  Sa  took  as  his  patron  in  his  conflict  with  the  In- 
dians and  the  rabble  of  Flench  Hugonots,  as  the  Portu- 
guese writers  call  them.  The  city  made  but  little  progress, 
and  was  principally  confined  to  the  point  about  the  Cala- 
bou^o,  near  which  some  very  old  houses,  with  the  church 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


93 


and  fortress  of  S.  Sebastiao,  yet  remain  to  attest  the  first 
foundations  of  the  city  : but  in  the  end  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  the  Paulistas  having  discovered  the  Minas  Geraes, 
and  extracted  from  them  such  abundance  of  precious  metals 
and  stones,  their  fame  attracted  multitudes  from  Portugal, 
who  established  themselves  at  S.  Sebastiao,  the  principal 
and  most  direct  port  which  led  to  these  rich  regions  ; and 
this  accession  of  wealth  and  people  soon  caused  a corres- 
pondent extension  of  houses  to  accommodate  them. 

The  aspect  of  the  country  round  was  singularly  unprom- 
ising for  the  erection  of  a large  town.  It  consisted  of  an 
extensive  marsh,  generally  inundated  with  stagnant  pools, 
and  wholly  intersected  with  putrid  steams  of  muddy  water. 
Floating  on  this  marsh  was  a number  of  hills  covered  with 
mato,  or  thickets,  whose  sides  were  too  abrupt  to  build  on  ; 
they  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  plain  as  heavy  incumbrances 
to  the  soil,  too  vast  to  be  removed,  and  too  steep  to  be  avail- 
able ; intercepting  the  free  current  of  air,  and  rendering 
still  more  deleterious  in  a tropical  climate,  the  exhalations 
of  marsh  miasma,  which  rose  from  the  soil  below.  Yet  it 
was  through  this  repulsive  spot  they  began  to  build  the  new 
town,  which  now  bids  fair  to  be  not  only  the  largest  and 
most  opulent,  but  also  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  of  the  new 
world  : the  marsh  was  drained,  the  mato  cut  down,  and  in- 
dustry having  done  something,  the  singular  salubrity  of  the 
climate  and  its  exemption  from  ordinary  tropical  distempers 
did  the  rest. 

In  1676  it  was  erected  into  a bishopric,  and  the  palace 
was  built  on  one  of  the  elevated  hills.  F rom  this  commence- 
ment sundry  other  religious  edifices  were  raised  in  similar 
situations  ; and  while  the  commercial  and  lay  community 
were  content  to  occupy  the  marsh  flats  below,  the  eclesias- 
tics,  with  their  usual  felicity  and  good  sense,  selected  the 
beautiful  situations  above,  until  every  hill  was  crowned  with 
some  monastery,  suspended  as  it  were  in  the  air,  looking 
down  on  the  town  below  as  its  guardians,  and  enjoying  above 
the  most  balmy  atmosphere  and  lovely  prospect  to  be  met 
with  in  the  world. 

The  riches  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  now  made  it  an  object  of 
cupidity  to  other  European  powers.  The  French  again  re- 
newed the  project  of  Yillegagnon.  In  1710,  General  du 
Clerc  was  sent  out  with  a squadron,  and  a force  of  1,200 
men,  to  take  possession  of  the  city  ; but  not  daring  to  pass 
the  bar,  he  disembarked  his  men  at  Guarateba,  on  a des- 


94 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ert  shore.  From  hence  he  was  led  by  two  negroes  through 
the  mountains,  and  entered  the  city,  penetrating  to  the  prin- 
cipal largo,  or  open  space,  in  the  town.  Here  he  was  at- 
tacked by  the  people,  and  forced  to  retire  to  the  trapiche,  or 
town  store,  on  the  shores  of  the  bay,  where  he  was  obliged 
to  capitulate  with  all  his  men  that  remained  alive. 

But  in  the  year  following,  the  celebrated  corsair  Du  Guay 
Trouim,  with  much  superior  force,  passed  the  bar,  and,  un- 
der cover  of  a thick  fog,  advanced  up  the  harbor,  and  took 
possession  of  the  Ilha  das  Cobras,  which  had  been  aban- 
doned, and  from  hence  cannonaded  the  town.  The  Con- 
vent of  Sam  Bento  stands  on  a hill  directly  opposite  the  spot, 
and  suffered  severely  from  this  cannonade.  The  massive 
walls  were  riddled  with  the  shot,  the  deep  marks  of  which 
yet  remain,  after  an  interval  of  more  than  a century,  and 
were  pointed  out  to  me  by  the  good  fathers  when  I visited 
the  library.  The  monks  at  the  time,  with  other  ecclesiastics, 
retired  to  the  wild  mountains  round  the  waterfall  of  Tijuco, 
ten  or  twelve  miles  from  the  city,  and  the  hermitages  and  al- 
tars they  erected  among  the  rocks  are  yet  preserved  there. 
After  inflicting  much  misery  on  the  city,  which  he  held  in 
possession  for  some  time,  he  heard  that  forces  were  ap- 
proaching from  the  Minas  Geraes,  and  he  agreed  to  ran- 
som it  and  depart.  The  ransom  paid  was  110,000  crusados 
in  money,  100  casks  of  sugar,  and  200  oxen  to  victual  his 
fleet.  The  people  of  Rio  still  retain  a strong  memory  of 
the  invasion,  and  cherish  traditionary  stories  of  the  many 
outrages  inflicted  on  them  by  the  French. 

It  gradually,  however,  recovered  from  these  effects,  and 
the  natural  advantages  of  the  situation  were  such,  that, 
in  the  year  1763,  Dom  Joseph  transferred  hither  the  vice- 
regal residence  from  Bahia,  hitherto  the  capital  of  Brazil, 
and  the  city  of  Rio  properly  commenced.  Among  the  vice- 
roys distinguished  for  their  improvements  of  the  new  capi- 
tal are  the  Marquis  de  Livradio  and  Luiz  de  Vasconcellos, 
and  many  of  the  finest  and  most  useful  public  works  still 
bear  their  image  and  superscription. 

But  the  circumstance  which  really  conferred  on  it  more 
advantages  than  any  other  cause,  was  the  emigration  of  the 
royal  family  of  Portugal  to  Brazil  ; an  event  from  which 
it  dates  its  flrst  commencement  of  actual  prosperity,  when  it 
ceased  to  be  a mere  province,  appendant  on  the  will  and  ca- 
price of  another  state,  but  was  recognized  as  a country, 
having  a name  and  a national  character  of  its  own.  The 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


95 


idea  of  removing  the  court  to  Brazil,  as  affording  an  asylum 
to  a weak  government  against  the  oppression  of  its  more 
powerful  neighbors,  had  been  long  entertained  in  Portugal. 
In  the  year  1761,  the  Marquis  de  Pombal  had  determined 
on  the  measure,  and  preparations  were  made  to  transport 
the  royal  family  across  the  Atlantic  : but  the  danger  of  in- 
vasion subsided,  and  the  project  was  at  the  time  abandon- 
ed, to  be  revived  on  the  next  emergency.  This  occurred 
again  in  1807,  when  a foreign  army  invaded  the  country, 
and  the  court  finally  resolved  to  abandon  Europe. 

On  the  14th  January,  1808,  it  was  announced1  at  Rio,  by 
the  arrival  of  the  brig  Guerra  Voador,  that  the  French  and 
Spaniards  were  entering  Portugal  to  seize  on  the  person  of 
the  prince  regent,  and  that  he  had  embarked,  on  the  29th 
of  November,  in  the  harbor  of  Lisbon,  with  all  the  royal 
family,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  Rio  de  Janeiro 
to  establish  his  court  there,  and  that  the  squadron  which 
accompanied  him  might  be  daily  expected.  This  news  was 
received  at  Rio  with  an  extraordinary  mixture  of  sorrow 
and  joy — sorrow  that  such  calamities  should  overwhelm  the 
mother  country,  to  which  the  good  people  of  Brazil  were 
still  fondly  attached,  and  joy  that  an  august  monarch,  of 
whom  they  entertained  the  most  exalted  and  extravagant 
notions,  should  condescend  to  visit  their  humble  country, 
and  take  up  his  residence  there.  The  preparations  for  his 
reception  occupied  all  thoughts.  The  viceroy’s  palace  was 
immediately  prepared,  and  all  the  public  offices  in  the  same 
square  were  vacated  to  accommodate  the  royal  cortege  ; and 
as  they  were  not  deemed  sufficient,  all  the  proprietors  of 
the  private  houses  in  the  neighborhood  were  obliged  to 
quit  their  residences  and  send  in  the  keys  to  the  viceroy, 
which  it  appears  they  did  without  the  least  hesitation  ; and 
couriers  were  despatched  to  the  governor  of  St.  Paul’s  and 
the  Minas  Geraes,  to  announce  the  happy  event,  and  de- 
mand that  all  the  provisions  of  the  provinces  should  be  sent 
to  Rio  for  the  royal  entertainment. 

In  the  very  commencement  of  all  these  preparations  it 
was  announced  on  Sunday,  the  17th  of  January,  that  the 
royal  squadron  were  off  the  coast  : but  it  appeared  that  a 
tempest  on  the  9th  of  December  had  assailed  and  scattered 
them,  and  the  only  ship  now  arrived  was  that  which  con- 
tained some  of  the  females  of  the  royal  family.  It  happened 
to  be  on  the  night  of  the  festival  of  the  patron  of  S.  Sebas- 
tiao,  on  which  it  is  usual  to  illuminate  the  city  ; so  it  was 


96 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


prolonged  for  three  days  to  commemorate  the  happy  event  ; 
and  in  the  mean  time  three  days’  prayers  and  supplications 
were  offered  up  for  the  safety  of  the  rest,  of  whose  fate  they 
were  ignorant.  In  this  state  of  suspense  they  continued 
for  a whole  month,  during  which  time  the  royal  visitors  re- 
mained on  board  their  ship  in  the  harbor,  that  they  might 
not  violate  the  etiquette  of  respect  due  to  the  prince  regent 
by  landing  before  him.  At  length  a bark  arrived  from  Ba- 
hia, containing  the  agreeable  information  that  the  royal 
squadron  had  escaped  from  the  tempest,  and  taken  shelter 
there  ; and  then  the  party  who  came  to  Rio  were  persuaded 
by  the  good  citizens  to  leave  their  inconvenient  residence. 


CHAP.  VIII. 

First  Act  of  ths  Ring  on  arriving  at  Bahia. — Proceeds  to  Rio. — English  the  first 
Strangers  settled  as  Residents, — Restrictions  removed  from  native  Industry. — 
Printing  and  Gunpowder  introduced. — Military  Hospital,  and  Chemical  Laboratory 
established. — Indians  reclaimed  and  settled. — Vaccination  introduced. — Theatre 
built. — First  French  arrive. — The  Slave  Trade  ameliorated. — Public  Library  es- 
tablished.— Treasury,  Mint,  and  Custom-House  erected. — Extraordinary  increase 
of  Commerce. — Effects  on  the  People  and  City. — The  King  raises  the  Colony  to  a 
Kingdom,  and  confers  on  it  distinct  armorial  Bearings. — First  Symptoms  of  Distur- 
bance at  Pernambuco. — Its  Object  and  Progress. — Suppression  and  Execution  of 
the  Leaders. — Acclamation  of  Dom  John. 

Immediately  on  his  arrival  there,  he  laid  the  foundation 
stone  of  that  edifice  on  which  was  raised  the  vast  superstruc- 
ture of  a new  empire.  On  the  28th  of  January,  1808,  he 
issued  his  royal  charter,  abolishing  the  old  exclusive  system, 
and  granting  to  the  people  of  Brazil  the  commerce  of  all 
foreign  nations,  friends  of  the  royal  crown,  and  opening  to 
their  ships  all  the  ports  of  the  country.  As  this  edict,  which, 
as  a Brazilian  writer  says,  u ought  to  be  written  in  letters 
of  gold,”  was  so  important,  I send  you  a copy  of  it.# 

Having- performed  this  great  act  of  justice  and  policy,  he 
took  leave  of  Bahia,  notwithstanding  the  pressing  solicita- 
tions of  the  citizens  that  he  should  remain,  and  their  pro- 
posal to  erect  for  him  a magnificent  palace.  He  arrived 
off  the  bar  of  Bio  on  the  7th  of  March,  and  entered  the  har- 


See  Appendix,  No.  I. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


97 


bor.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  extravagance  and  joy  of 
the  citizens  at  this  event  ; all  the  houses  were  deserted,  the 
hills  covered  with  spectators,  and  those  who  could  procure 
boats,  sailed  out  to  accompany  the  royal  squadron  on  the 
water.  On  his  landing,  he  proceeded  to  the  cathedral  to 
offer  up  thanks  for  his  safe  arrival,  and  besides  other  demon- 
strations of  joy,  the  city  was  illuminated  for  nine  nights. 

Among  the  first  benefits  conferred  on  the  country  by  the 
arrival  of  the  court  was  an  influx  of  Portuguese,  of  intelli- 
gence and  rank,  from  the  mother  country  ; and  the  con- 
sequence of  opening  the  ports  was,  the  establishment  of  for- 
eign mercantile  houses  in  the  city  of  Rio.  Of  these  the 
earliest  were  the  English,  many  of  whom  landed  soon  after 
the  sovereign,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  that  numerous  and 
respectable  population  now  resident  in  the  city.  Immedi- 
ately after  his  Excellency  Lord  Strangford  arrived,  and  gave 
a dignity  and  consequence  to  the  newly  opened  country  in 
his  character  of  ambassador  from  a great  European  power. 

Next  to  opening  the  ports  to  foreign  enterprise,  was  the 
encouragement  of  it  among  the  natives  of  the  country.  ’By 
a decree  of  the  1st  of  April,  1808,  Dom  John  permitted  the 
free  exercise  of  every  kind  of  industry  to  all  classes  of  Bra- 
zilians. The  alvara  or  decree  states,  that,  wishing  to  in- 
crease the  national  wealth,  by  manufactures,  agriculture, 
and  arts,  which  increase  the  number  of  productive  hands, 
and  furnish  the  means  of  subsistence  to  those  who  are 
led  into  vice  by  want  and  idleness,  every  prohibition  of 
any  kind  which  existed,  was  abolished  and  revoked  ; and 
all  subjects  of  Brazil  were  invited  and  encouraged tp  engage 
in  every  kind  of  manufacture  to  which  they  were  inclined, 
on  a large  or  limited  scale,  without  any  reservation  or  ex- 
ception. The  importance  of  this  judicious  and  benevolent 
decree  cannot  be  duly  estimated  without  considering  that, 
under  the  late  colonial  system,  permission  was  scarcely  giv- 
en to  manufacture  a few  articles  of  coarse  ware  for  slaves, 
from  the  cotton  which  grew  in  the  country. 

In  this  first  year  also  was  established  that  mighty  engine 
of  knowledge  and  power,  a printing-press.  For  three  cen- 
turies this  simple  apparatus  had  been  inhibited  in  Brazil, 
from  its  supposed  dangerous  effects  ; and  it  was  not  till  the 
year  1808  that  this  great  country  was  permitted  to  print,  I 
am  told,  a leaf  of  a book.  The  greatest  boon  the  good 
Prince  Regent  thought  he  could  confer  on  his  new  people 
was,  to  establish  this  means  of  enlightening  them,  on  their 
9 


98 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


best  interests,  as  connected  with  arts,  sciences,  agriculture, 
manufactures,  and  all  the  benefits  he  hoped  to  confer  on 
them.  The  day,  therefore,  on  which  he  entered  his  forty- 
first  year,  he  celebrated  by  conferring  this  boon,  and  estab- 
lished a royal  printing-office,  and  published  a Gazette  for 
the  first  time  in  Brazil.  Nothing  perhaps  can  mark  more 
decidedly  the  deplorable  state  of  darkness  and  ignorance  in 
which  this  fine  country  was  kept,  or  the  rapid  progress  the 
people  have  since  made  in  the  diffusion  of  knowledge,  than 
this  circumstance.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  conceive,  that 
twenty  years  ago  there  was  not  a single  newspaper  allowed 
in  a country,  where  now  there  are  thirteen  periodicals  pub- 
lished, and  universally  circulated  and  read,  in  one  city 
alone. 

Immediately  after  the  printing-office,  a manufactory  of 
powder  was  established  at  the  Lagoa  de  freitas,  which  still 
exists  there.  Printing  and  gunpowder  seem  but  oddly  asso- 
ciated : yet  they  made  their  first  appearance  in  Europe 
much  about  the  same  time,  and  in  Brazil  they  were  con- 
temporary introductions.  He  next  established  a royal  trea- 
sury, and  a council  of  finance  to  regulate  the  receipts  and 
expenditure  of  the  national  income,  and  created  a national 
bank,  consisting  of  a fund  of  three  millions  of  crusados,  di- 
vided into  1200  shares  or  bank  actions,  each  valued  at  one 
conto  of  reis,  and  their  charter  to  continue  for  twenty  years. 

In  the  following  year  he  founded  a school  of  anatomy, 
surgery,  and  medicine,  annexed  to  the  Royal  Military 
Hospital  ; also  a chemical  laboratory,  and  a quarantine  laz- 
aretto on  the  promontory  of  Boa  Viagem,  to  obviate  the 
consequences  that  might  result,  from  the  freedom  of  com- 
merce, by  foreign  ships  introducing  contagious  disorders 
from  infected  ports. 

The  Indians  engaged  also  the  particular  attention  of  the 
government.  Besides  the  savage  tribes  scattered  over  the 
provinces  of  Mato  Grosso  and  the  remote  parts  of  the 
country,  there  still  existed  in  almost  the  vicinity  of  the  capi- 
tal, a tribe  long  distinguished  for  their  ferocity  and  canni- 
balisms. These  are  well  known  under  the  name  of  Bote- 
cudos,  from  an  extraordinary  deformity,  with  which  they 
ornament  themselves.  This  consists  of  a plug  of  wood, 
called  a botoque,  which  they  insert  in  an  incision  made  in 
their  lower  lip  above  the  chin.  They  inhabit  the  banks  of 
the  Rio  Doce,  and  laid  waste  every  settlement  attempted 
in  that  beautiful  and  fertile  region.  In  1809,  a party  of 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


99 


Europeans  were  sent  up  the  river,  and  they  found  150  farms 
in  ruins,  whose  proprietors  had  either  perished  or  fled. 
Detachments  were  accordingly  ordered  in  all  directions,  to 
restrain  their  inroads  and  to  punish  their  aggressions,  and 
every  encouragement  was  held  out,  to  establish  new  settle- 
ments and  civilize  them.  Every  village,  consisting  of 
twelve  huts  of  Indians  and  ten  of  whites,  was  to  be  consid- 
ered a villa  with  all  its  benefits  and  privileges,  and  sesma- 
rias  or  grants  of  land  were  made  to  such  as  would  become 
cultivators,  giving  all  the  privileges  and  advantages  of  origi- 
nal donatarios.  New  roads  were  then  opened  to  form  more 
easy  communications,  and  considerable  effect  was  produced 
on  these  intractable  natives.  The  Puris,  a neighboring 
tribe,  to  the  number  of  1000,  were  located  in  villages, 
called  aldeas  ; and  the  arts  and  industry  of  civilized  life 
made  more  progress  among  them  in  a few  years  from  this 
period,  than  they  had  before  done  for  so  many  centuries. 

The  year  1811  was  memorable  by  the  introduction  of 
vaccination  into  Brazil.  Vaccine  institutions  were  estab- 
lished in  different  provinces,  for  the  promotion  of  this  most 
beneficent  measure,  and  at  Rio  the  church  of  Rosario  was 
assigned,  as  the  place  for  communicating  the  infection. 
The  people  were  directed  to  bring  their  children  here  on 
Thursdays  and  Saturdays,  and  two  surgeons  were  appoint- 
ed to  attend.  The  idea  that  the  operation  was  performed 
in  a church  tended  not  a little  to  remove  prejudice,  and  in- 
cline the  people  to  a practice  conducted  under  the  auspices 
of  religion.  But  they  hardly  required  such  an  inducement. 
The  bexigas,  or  small-pox,  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  Ameri- 
ca, had  made  frightful  ravages  before  the  introduction  of 
this  salutary  prophylactic. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  1813,  a new  theatre  was  opened 
on  the  north  side  of  the  square,  called  the  Rocio,  now  the 
Pra^a  da  Constituicao.  It  was  called  the  Theatre  of  St. 
John,  in  compliment  to  the  Prince  Regent,  under  whose 
auspices  it  was  completed  ; and  it  was  opened  on  the  birth- 
day of  his  son  Dom  Pedro.  It  was  an  edifice  of  consider- 
able magnificence,  and  according  with  the  growing  improve- 
ment of  the  city,  since  the  court  had  established  itself  there. 

In  1314  the  French  were  invited  ; some  residents  estab- 
lished themselves  at  Rio,  and  the  first  ships  of  that  nation 
entered  the  port  in  a friendly  manner.  Their  tricolored 
flag,  as  the  Brazilians  say,  which  had  been  the  scourge  of 
their  little  commerce,  was  now  changed  for  the  white,  which 


100 


NOTICES  OF  brazil; 


floated  over  their  ships  in  the  harbor,  as  an  emblem  and 
symbol  of  peace.  They  have  so  increased  as  far  to  exceed 
the  English  who  had  arrived  before  them,  and  whole  streets 
are  now  occupied  by  their  shops  and  bijouterie. 

The  condition  of  the  slaves  next  engaged  Dom  John’s 
attention.  The  traffic  was  to  be  continued  some  years  long- 
er, but  in  the  mean  time  he  made  sundry  regulations  to  al- 
leviate the  inhuman  sufferings  of  this  unfortunate  race,  in 
their  passage,  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  by  cramming  so 
many  into  a confined  space,  and  by  the  scanty  and  unwhole- 
some’ provision  allowed  for  their  support.  He  regulated 
the  number  to  be  taken  on  board  by  the  tonnage  and  ac- 
commodation of  the  ship,  and,  under  severe  penalties,  en- 
joined to  them  all  the  comfort  and  alleviation,  which  religion 
and  humanity  demanded  ; and  it  is  certain  that  if  in  this  in- 
fernal traffic  there  can  be  any  redeeming  quality,  the  Bra- 
zilians are  entitled  to  the  reputation  of  it. 

Among  other  valuable  importations  to  the  new  country, 
the  Prince  Regent  had  brought  with  him  his  books,  of  which 
he  had  in  Portugal  a large  and  scarce  collection.  For  their 
reception  the  Hospital  of  the  Terceiros  do  Carmo,  in  the 
Rua  Detraz  do  Carmo,  was  fitted  up,  and  the  arrangement 
was  given  to  two  indefatigable  and  learned  men,  Joaquim 
Damaso  and  Jose  Viegas  ; and  when  it  was  finished,  the 
library  was  thrown  open  to  the  public,  in  the  year  1814. 

The  year  1815  was  distinguished  by  new  public  edifices, 
which  the  rapid  increase  of  every  department  of  the  state 
required.  A new  treasury  and  mint  were  finished  in  the 
Rua  Lampedosa,  called  henceforth  the  Rua  do  Erario  ; and 
the  custom-house  becoming  altogether  too  small  for  the 
business,  which  increased  with  the  products  of  every  coun- 
try of  the  globe  now  poured  into  Brazil,  a new  one  was 
erected.  This  edifice,  called  the  Alfandega,  situated  on 
the  water  edge  in  the  Rua  Dereita,  was  soon  after  to  be- 
come the  theatre  of  the  most  painful  of  the  few  outrages 
against  humanity,  which  have  marked  the  transition  of  Bra- 
zil, from  the  state  of  a province  to  that  of  a kingdom.  The 
number  of  ships  which  entered  the  port  with  cargoes,  had 
increased  in  an  extraordinary  ratio.  Before  the  year  1808 
none  were  seen  in  the  harbor,  with  the  exception  of  a few 
admitted  to  refit  or  repair  damages,  and  which,  under  that 
pretext,  contrived  to  carry  on  some  contraband  trade  ; but 
in  the  year  after  the  opening  of  the  ports,  90  strange  ships 
and  760  Portuguese  arrived  at  the  custom-house  ; in  1810^ 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


101 


422  strangers  and  1240  Portuguese;  and  so  the  commerce 
proceeded,  progressively  increasing  every  year. 

In  addition  to  these  wise  and  wholesome  improvements, 
there  were  sundry  others,  which  it  would,  perhaps,  be  te- 
dious to  particularize.  By  the  influx  of  strangers  and  Por- 
tuguese, the  population  increased  rapidly  in  different  places. 
New  towns  were  settled  in  deserts,  and  old  ones  were  erect- 
ed into  cities  ; roads  of  communication  were  opened  through 
forests  which  had  never  before  been  penetrated,  and  riv- 
ers were  navigated  towards  their  source,  which  boats  had 
never  before  sailed  on  ; several  Indian  tribes  were  human- 
ized and  located  in  villages  ; and,  in  effect,  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  underwent  an  improvement  which  no  other 
on  record  evinced  in  so  short  a time. 

The  manners  of  the  people  also  displayed  a sensible 
change  within  a very  short  period.  Many  old  and  respect- 
able creole  families,  whose  habits  were  as  rude  as  their 
minds  were  contracted,  from  the  rustic  seclusion  in  which 
they  had  lived,  now  repaired  to  the  capital,  where  frequent 
galas,  levees,  and  birth-day  ceremonies  at  court,  attracted 
crowds  together.  Here,  from  mixing  with  the  strangers, 
both  Portuguese  and  English,  they  soon  rubbed  off  the  rust 
of  retirement,  and  returned  home  with  new  ideas  and  modes 
of  life,  which  were  again  adopted  by'their  neighbors,  and 
so  improvement  and  civilization  spread  through  the  coun- 
try. The  commencement  of  this  new  state  of  things  was 
perceptible  in  the  town  of  Rio  itself.  From  the  period  of 
its  first  improvement  by  the  discovery  of  the  mines,  until 
the  arrival  of  the  court,  little  was  effected.  Some  spots  in- 
tended for  streets  and  squares  had  been  marked  out,  but 
they  remained  disgusting  receptacles  of  filth  which  the  ne- 
groes cast  there  ; and  the  vicinity  of  the  town  and  the 
islands  of  the  Bay  continued  in  their  primitive  state  of  mato 
or  thicket.  But  from  the  moment  the  court  landed,  every- 
thing was  changed  ; new  streets  and  squares  were  built, 
the  islands  and  hills  were  covered  with  villas,  and  Rio  as- 
sumed that  lovely  aspect  of  nature,  improved  by  the  hand 
of  art,  which  now  renders  it  so  striking  an  object. 

When  all  this  was  effected,  it  was  determined  to  erect  it 
into  a separate  state,  and  as  the  condition  of  a province  had 
ceased,  so  also  should  its  name  ; a decree  therefore  was  is- 
sued on  the  16th  of  December,  1815,  declaring  that  from 
the  date  of  its  publication,  the  state  of  Brazil  should  be 
elevated  to  the  dignity  of  a kingdom,  and  thenceforth  called 
9* 


102 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


u the  Kingdom  of  Brazil/’  and  should  form,  with  those  in 
Europe,  the  united  Kingdoms  of  Portugal,  Algarves,  and 
Brazil.  Of  this  decree,  which  was  the  next  important 
epocha  in  the  history  of  this  new  country,  I send  you  also 
a copy.* 

The  effect  of  this  new  state  of  things  on  the  Brazilians 
was  electric.  It  was  felt,  and  expressed  by  a spontaneous 
illumination  all  over  the  country  ; and,  as  they  say,  from 
the  Amazons  to  the  River  of  Plate  was  one  continued 
blaze.  The  cameras  of  the  different  cities  sent  deputies  to 
Rio,  to  convey  their  sense  of  gratitude  to  the  sovereign  for 
this  unhoped-for  boon  ; thanksgivings  were  offered  up  in  all 
the  churches,  and  other  indications  of  great  and  lively  satis- 
faction were  evinced.  It  added  not  a little  to  the  pleasure, 
that  all  the  foreign  sovereigns  assembled  at  the  Congress 
of  Vienna  approved  of  this  measure the  assurance  of 
Lord  Castlereagh,  that  it  was  the  opinion  of  his  Royal 
Highness  the  Prince  Regent  of  England,  that  it  was  greatly 
calculated  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  the  country,  gave 
great  satisfaction. 

Immediately  after  the  consummation  of  this  event,  the 
Queen,  Bona  Maria  the  First,  died  at  Rio  ; but  the  Prince 
Regent  deferred  the  acclamation  of  his  succession  until  the 
expiration  of  a year  of  mourning  for  his  mother,  and  in  the 
mean  time  adopted  suitable  arms  to  designate  the  new 
kingdom,  which  were  settled  by  a royal  decree, — that  as 
Alphonso  III.  had  joined  the  arms  of  Algarves  to  those  of 
Portugal  when  he  united  the  kingdoms,  so  should  those  of 
Brazil  be  now  added  ; that  they  should  consist  of  an  armil- 
lary sphere  of  gold  in  a field  azure,  and  that  an  escutcheon, 
containing  the  Quinas  of  Portugal  and  the  Seven  Castles  of 
Algarves,  should  be  placed  on  the  sphere,  surmounted  by 
the  royal  crown, — which  arms  should  be  borne  on  the 
standards  and  coins  of  the  country  : these  arms  have  been 
since  changed,  but  almost  all  the  copper  coin  in  circulation, 
particularly  the  vintems,  still  bear  them. 

The  first  serious  symptom  of  disturbance  from  political 
causes,  appeared  in  Pernambuco.  Hitherto  the  Brazilians, 
conciliated  by  the  kind  and  benevolent  proceedings  of  the 
king,  had  shown,  with  but  few  and  trifling  exceptions,  the 
most  submissive  acquiescence  ; but  on  the  5th  of  March, 
1817,  news  arrived  at  Rio  of  an  insurrection  at  Pernambuco, 


See  Appendix,  No.  II. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


103 


Pernambuco  seems  to  have  imbibed  a strong  republican  spir- 
it, from  various  causes,  founded  in  past  and  present  circum- 
stances. In  1 629,  the  Dutch  took  possession  of  all  the 
northern  parts  of  Brazil,  including  Salvador  and  Pernambu- 
co ; and  for  several  years  were  masters  of  those  extensive 
regions,  till  dispossessed  by  a powerful  army  of  Spaniards, 
amounting  tol2, 000  men.  Though  expelled  from  the  coun- 
try, these  sturdy  republicans  left  behind  them  much  of 
their  feelings  and  principles,  which  only  wanted  an  occa- 
sion to  call  them  into  activity.  When  the  revolutionary 
blaze  burst  out  in  South  America  in  modern  times,  it  found 
among  the  population  of  this  part  of  Brazil,  inflammable 
materials,  which  readily  caught  the  flame  from  the  Spanish 
territories  in  their  vicinity  ; and  the  people  at  once  entered 
into  all  the  measures  of  their  neighbors.  Their  object 
was  to  unite  the  northern  provinces  into  a separate  republic, 
and  a plan  of  insurrection  was  matured  to  effect  their  pur- 
pose : it  broke  out  on  the  following  occasion.  A captain 
of  artillery,  named  De  Barros  Lima,  having  been  reprehend- 
ed by  his  commander,  Brigadier  Manoel  Joaquim,  drew 
his  sword  and  ran  him  through  the  body,  and  immediately 
the  regiment  which  had  been  previously  prepared,  burst 
into  open  rebellion.  Colonel  Alexander  Thomaz  rushed 
among  them  to  bring  them  to  their  duty,  when  they  imme- 
diately fired  on  him,  and  killed  him  also.  The  revolution- 
ists now  assembled,  called  on  the  people  to  join  them,  and  cau- 
sed the  tocsin  to  be  sounded  from  the  bells  of  the  churches. 
They  then  trampled  under  foot  the  standards  of  Portugal, 
formed  a provisional  government  of  five  persons,  and  pro- 
claimed Pernambuco  an  independent  country.  The  old 
governor,  Caetano  Pinto,  shut  himself  up  in  the  fortress, 
where  he  was  beseiged  by  the  insurgents,  and  on  the  follow- 
ing day  obliged  to  capitulate.  He  was  embarked  on  board 
a small  vessel,  and  sent  to  Rio  to  communicate  the  news 
of  the  revolution.  It  did  not  appear  that  the  Brazilians,  in 
general,  felt  at  this  time  any  sympathy  with  the  insurgents, 
though  the  flame  of  insurrection  spread  all  over  the  prov- 
ince ; for  the  people  of  Bahia  immediately  fitted  out  a 
squadron  of  armed  merchant  ships,  and  the  governor,  the 
Conde  dos  Arcos,  despatched  a land  force  to  suppress  the 
insurrection  ; while  at  Rio,  all  people  pressed  forward  to 
offer  their  services.  A spontaneous  donation  of  500,000 
crusados  were  contributed  by  individuals,  and  a fleet  with 
a considerable  body  of  troops,  and  among  them  a regiment 


104 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


of  volunteers,  was  promptly  sent  out  on  the  4th  of  May 
following. 

The  division  from  Bahia,  from  its  immediate  proximity, 
first  commenced  its  operations,  and  was  joined  by  numbers 
of  Pernambucans  who  disapproved  of  the  insurrection. 
For  some  time  the  affairs  of  the  insurgents  seemed  to  pro- 
ceed prosperously.  A part  of  their  army,  called  the  southern 
division,  was  particularly  distinguished  for  its  success,  and 
a large  body  of  guerillas,  formed  by  Domingo  Joze  Mar- 
tins, a civilian,  who  had  taken  an  early  part  in  the  insur- 
rection, and  headed  by  Cavalcante,  a gentleman  of  rank  and 
fortune,  and  a priest  named  Sonto,  greatly  harassed  the 
royalists  ; and  when  the  army  of  Bahia  approached,  to  at- 
tack Reciffe,  they  did  not  wait  their  arrival,  but  advanced 
to  meet  them  to  the  plains  of  Ipojuco,  where  they  hoped  to 
encounter  the  Bahian  troops,  fatigued  with  their  march. 
The  result  was  fatal  to  them,  the  insurgents  were  totally 
defeated  ; some  fled  to  the  matos,  where  they  lay  concealed, 
but  many  were  wounded,  and  taken  prisoners  ; among  the 
rest,  the  famous  Dr.  Martins,  who  acted  as  second  in  com- 
mand. The  insurgents  in  the  city  immediately  dissolved 
their  provisional  government,  and  submitted  to  the  fleet  of 
merchantmen  sent  against  them  from  Bahia  ; and,  by  the 
time  the  royal  expedition  had  arrived  from  Rio,  everything 
was  restored  to  order  and  quiet  at  Pernambuco.  Much  se- 
verity was  exercised  against  the  unfortunate  revolutionists, 
and  their  principal  leaders,  Martins,  Mendonga,  and  Joa- 
quim  de  Almeida,  were  hanged. 

The  time  was  now  arrived  when  the  hitherto  Prince  Re- 
gent was  to  take  upon  himself  the  title  of  monarch,  and  the 
new  state  of  Brazil  was  to  be  distinguished  by  the  acclama- 
tion of  its  first  king.  The  5th  of  February,  1818,  was  ap- 
pointed for  the  ceremony.  The  mode  of  enthroning  mon- 
archs  by  acclamation  is  among  the  most  ancient  usages  of 
the  Portuguese  people,  and  their  first  monarch  was  so  crown- 
ed. Dom  Alfonso  Henriques,  son  of  Count  Henriques, 
born  about  the  year  1110,  governed  Portugal  for  eleven 
years,  under  the  title  of  Principe  de  Portugal  ; but  after  his 
victory  over  the  Moors  in  the  Campo  d’Ourique,  he  was  ac- 
claimed king  by  his  soldiers,  by  the  title  of  Alfonso  I.  The 
mode  of  this  acclamagao  consisted  in  placing  the  chief,  stand- 
ing, on  a bucjkler,  which  was  then  raised  over  the  heads  of 
the  soldiers,  and  in  this  position  they  proclaimed  him  king  ; 
and  I saw  in  the  palace  at  Rio,  a fine  and  spirited  painting, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


105 


representing  this  ceremony.  From  this  time,  all  future 
monarchs  of  Portugal  were  crowned  by  acclamation,  though 
the  circumstance  of  being  raised  on  a shield  had  fallen  into 
disuse. 

The  preparations  for  crowning  in  this  way  the  first  Euro- 
pean monarch  ever  elected  in  America,  were  attended  with 
suitable  magnificence.  A grand  veranda  was  erected  in  the 
palace  square,  250  palms  in  length,  in  which  the  ceremony 
was  performed.  On  the  day  previous,  the  whole  of  the  con- 
stituted authorities  assembled  in  full  costume,  and  proceed- 
ed to  the  palace  of  St.  Christovao,  to  congratulate  the  sove- 
reign on  his  approaching  elevation  ; and,  on  the  day  of  ac- 
clamation, all  the  military  from  Bahia,  and  other  places, 
joined  to  those  of  Rio,  with  a concourse  of  strangers  of  all 
nations,  mixed  with  Brazilians,  filled  the  square  and  con- 
tiguous streets. 

The  monarch,  after  the  celebration  of  mass  in  the  chapel 
royal,  entered  the  veranda  in  his  robes.  The  king  at  arms 
proclaimed  silence  in  these  words  : 6i  Hear,  hear,  and  be 
attentive!  ” and  the  desembargador  of  the  palace  addressed 
him  in  a speech  suitable  to  the  occasion  ; then  proceeding 
to  a stool,  on  which  stood  a cushion,  Dom  John  knelt  down 
on  it,  and  taking  his  sceptre  in  his  left  hand  and  laying  his 
right  on  the  crucifix,  the  coronation  oath  was  administered 
to  him  by  the  secretary  of  state,  while  the  bishops  of  Goyaz 
and  Mozambique  stood  by  as  witnesses.  The  alferes  mor, 
or  great  standard-bearer,  then  unrolled  the  sacred  standard 
of  Henry  Alfonso,  the  founder  of  the  Portuguese  throne, 
and  all  the  nobles  and  grandees  repeated  the  oath.  When 
it  was  reported  to  the  king  that  they  had  done  so,  it  was 
proclaimed  aloud,  and  the  alferes  mor,  again  unfurling  the 
standard,  made  acclamation  with  a loud  voice,  u Royal,  roy- 
al, royal,  by  the  very  high  and  very  powerful  Senhor,  King 
Dom  John  VI.  our  lord.”*  This  acclamation  was  repeat-* 
ed  in  front  of  the  veranda,  and  the  people  below  answered 
by  a burst  of  music,  peals  of  bells,  explosions  of  artillery, 
deafening  shouts,  discharges  of  fire-works,  and  such  an  uni- 
versal display  of  extravagant  joy,  that,  as  my  author,  tho 
worthy  Gonsalves  dos  Sanctos,  says,  u it  would  require  the 
pencil  of  Zeuxis  and  the  odes  of  Pindar  to  describe  ; and  if 
anything  on  earth  could  be  compared  to  the  joys  of  heaven, 
it  was  that  moment.” 

* Real,  real,  real,  pelo  muito  alto  et  muito  poderoso  Senhor  Rei, 
P,  Joao  Y{.  nosso  Senhor. 


106 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  last  public  act  of  Dom  John  was  proclaiming  the  new 
constitution  of  the  Cortes  of  Portugal  in  Brazil,  in  which 
his  son  Dom  Pedro,  who  now  began  to  take  an  active  part 
in  the  affairs  of  the  country,  so  much  distinguished  himself 


CHAP.  IX. 

Birth  of  Dom  Pedro. — Padre  Antonio  d’Arrabida,  his  Tutor. — Emigration  of  the 
Royal  Family,  and  Behavior  of  Dom  Pedro. — Suspicious  Death  of  his  Tutor  Rade- 
mak. — Disposition  and  early  Propensities  of  Dom  Pedro. — Marriage. — Takes  a de- 
cided Part  in  the  Revolution  in  Portugal. — Violent  Conduct  of  the  Portuguese 
Troops  in  Brazil. — Alarming  Consequences  apprehended. — Timidity  and  Irresolu- 
tion of  Dom  John. — Energy  and  Decision  of  Dom  Pedro. — Strange  Display  at  the 
Theatre. — The  King  resolves  to  return  to  Europe. — Electors  convoked. — Descrip- 
tion of  the  Alfandega  — Speech  of  the  English  Merchants  to  the  King. — Conduct 
of  the  Electors-assembled  there. — Atrocious  Massacre  of  the  Citizens. — Fate  of 
Individuals. — The  Place  abandoned  in  Horror  ever  since. — Departure  of  Dom  John. 
— Melancholy  Contrast  between  his  Arrival  and  Departure. 

The  emperor  Dom  Pedro  was  born  at  Lisbon,  on  the  12th 
of  October,  1798  ; he  was  the  second  son  of  Dom  John  VI. 
and  of  Carlota  Joaquina,  daughter  of  Charles  IV.  of  Spain  ; 
but  by  the  premature  death  of  his  elder  brother,  Antonio, 
he  became  heir-presumptive  <to  the  crown.  He  was  of  a 
weakly  temperament  when  a child,  but  showed  early  some 
of  that  vivacity  of  character  which  has  since  distinguished 
him.  He  was  educated  by  the  Padre  Antonio  d’Arrabida, 
an  intelligent  ecclesiastic,  who  early  impressed  him  with 
sentiments  of  religion,  for  which  he  is  still  distinguished  ; 
but  his  education  was  in  nothing  else  remarkable,  except 
that,  in  common  with  his  sisters,  he  acquired  some  know- 
ledge of  Latin,  which  he  has  not  yet  forgotten.  His  tutor 
is  at  present  Bishop  of  Anamuria,  in  partibus,  and  resides 
in  the  convent  of  San  Antonio,  where  I visited  him.  He  is 
a man  about  sixty,  tall  and  thin,  with  a very  strongly  marked 
countenance,  resembling  the  idea  one  conceives  of  an  Ital- 
ian monk  of  the  16th  century.  He  wears  a black  stuff  robe 
and  cowl,  with  a gold  cross  suspended  from  his  neck,  and 
large  diamond  rings  on  his  fingers.  He  speaks  French 
well,  and  it  was  the  language  of  our  communication.  I 
found  him  remarkably  urbane  and  gentlemanlike  in  his  man- 
ner, and,  with  a ready  and  unaffected  courtesy,  he  informed 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


107 


me  on  every  subject  about  which  I inquired.  He  spoke  of 
the  royal  family  and  the  early  years  of  his  pupil,  and  seemed 
to  take  a pleasure  in  recurring  to  the  events  of  these  times. 
He  is  now  superintendent  of  the  education  of  the  emperor’s 
children,  and  is  besides  librarian  to  the  imperial  library, 
where  he  is  editing  a splendid  work  on  the  botany  of  Rio 
Janeiro,  of  which  he  presented  me  some  of  the  plates. 

When  the  affairs  of  Portugal  became  critical,  and  involv- 
ed in  French  intrigues,  it  was  resolved  on  by  his  father  to 
send  Dom  Pedro  to  Brazil,  with  his  tutor,  under  the  name 
of  the  Prince  of  Beira,  that  this  important  branch  of  the 
royal  family  should  be  preserved  from  a convulsion  which 
might  crush  the  name  in  Europe  ; but  the  persuasion  of  his 
excellency  Lord  Strangford,  the  British  minister  at  Lisbon, 
and  the  approach  of  the  French  army  under  Junot,  deter- 
mined the  Regent  himself  to  depart,  and  he  embarked  on 
board  the  Portuguese  vessel  of  war  the  Principe  do  Brazil, 
accompanied  by  the  rest  of  the  fleet.  Dom  Pedro  showed 
himself  on  this  .occasion  a lively,  energetic  boy.  He  took 
pleasure  in  attending  to  the  working  of  the  ship,  with  an 
activity  and  mechanical  dexterity  which  still  distinguish 
him.  When  not  so  engaged,  he  was  seen  to  sit  apart  at  the 
foot  of  the  mainmast,  reading  the  voyage  of  iEneas  in  Vir- 
gil, impressed,  as  he  said,  with  the  similarity  of  his  fate  to 
his  own.  The  voyage  was  tedious,  from  violent  and  con- 
trary winds,  and,  as  they  had  suddenly  departed,  their  con- 
veniences were  soon  exhausted.  Among  other  privations, 
it  is  asserted,  that  Dom  Pedro  and  his  brother’s  stock  of 
linen  was  but  scanty,  and  it  was  found  necessary  to  cut  up 
some  bedclothes  to  convert  them  into  shirts  ; so  that  when 
the  emperor  first  landed  in  his  future  dominions,  he  was 
clad,  not  indeed,  like  one  of  the  aborigines,  in  a blanket, 
but  in  a sheet. 

Dom  Pedro  was  ten  years  old  when  he  set  his  foot  on  the 
shore  of  the  New  World.  The  first  care  of  his  father  was 
to  supply  him  with  a competent  tutor,  and  he  fixed  on  John 
Rademak,  who  had  been  ambassador  from  Portugal  to  Den- 
mark, and  from  his  residence  in  different  parts  of  the  con- 
tinent, spoke  with  fluency  almost  every  language  in  Europe. 
He  was  supposed  to  be  every  way  fitted  for  the  task  he  had 
undertaken,  and  the  young  prince  was  about  to  profit  by  the 
instructions  of  his  gifted  preceptor,  when  Rademak  sudden- 
ly died.  It  was  generally  rumored,  and  I heard  it  often 
affirmed,  that  he  died  by  poison.  He  had  a slave,  who  had 


108 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


formed  an  attachment  for  a person  in  the  neighborhood  of 
a residence  from  which  he  was  about  to  remove  ; this  she 
determined  to  prevent,  and  to  this  end  purchased  some  wine 
at  a venda,  into  which  she  infused  poison,  and  then  placed 
it  beside  her  master  at  dinner,  who  drank  it  without  suspi- 
cion. I have  heard  it,  however,  from  one  who  visited  him 
in  his  last  moments  at  his  house  at  Boto  Fogo,  that  he  died 
of  a wounded  spirit  and  broken  heart,  in  consequence  of 
some  ill  treatment  he  imagined  he  had  received  from  his 
supposed  rival  and  enemy,  the  prince’s  former  tutor. 

Deprived  thus  unexpectedly  of  his  preceptor,  the  prince  did 
not  seem  solicitous  for  another,  and  without  any  fixed  plan 
of  education  his  attention  vacillated  between  many  objects. 
He  showed  an  early  taste  for  mechanics,  and,  like  those  of 
his  great  namesake  of  Russia,  specimens  of  his  early  inge- 
nuity in  this  way  are  still  preserved.  He  made  the  model 
of  a ship  of  war,  and  completed  a billiard-table,  on  which 
latter  he  now  exhibits  as  much  skill  in  playing  the  game  as 
in  manufacturing  the  wood.  But  the  pursuit  to  which  he 
most  devoted  himself  was  music,  for  which  he  conceived,  at 
an  early  age,  a strong  predilection,  and  showed  a decided 
talent.  He  not  only  learned  to  play  on  a variety  of  instru- 
ments, but  he  composed,  I have  been  informed,  much  of  the 
music  for  his  father’s  chapel ; and  the  most  popular  piece 
now  in  Brazil,  both  the  words  and  music  of  which  are  of  his 
composition,  attests  his  talent. 

These  sedentary  employments  he  varied  by  a very  ac- 
tive life  abroad.  He  was  a very  bold  and  skilful  horseman, 
and  at  an  early  age  drove  a cabriolet  with  four  horses  in 
hand,  an  exercise  which  I generally  saw  him  perform  every 
day  with  a dashing  dexterity.  He  was,  moreover,  ardently 
fond  of  the  chase,  and  pursued  it  with  eagerness  and  intre- 
pidity, in  places  of  which  a European  can  have  no  concep- 
tion. This  difficulty  is  well  described  by  a French  writer, 
who  calls  penetrating  into  a Brazilian  forest,  breaking  the 
chain  which  bound  him  to  his  fellow-men.* 

* La  chasse  au  sein  de  vastes  solitudes  du  Brezil,  n’est  point  celle  de  nos 
riantes  campagnes;  a peine  l’homme  a-t-il  perdu  de  vue  le  toit  de  son  hab- 
itation, qu’il  a,  pour  ainsi  dire,  rompu  la  chaine  que  se  le  liait  a ses  sembla- 
bles.  Aux  yeux  de  chasseur  Brazilien  se  deploit  de  toutes  partes,  un  ri- 
deau  d’arbres  aussi  vieux  que  la  terre,  portant  jusqu’au  ciel  un  tete  gigan- 
tesque,  et  si  etroitement  uni  entre  eux  par  de  plantes  rampantes  et  epineu- 
ses,  que  le  moindre  animal  cherche  en  vain  une  route  a travel's  cette  im- 
mense cloison  de  feuillages.  C’est  pourtant  ce  mur  qu’il  faut  percer,  c’est 
au  milieu  de  se  chaos  inconnu  a l’homme,  qu’il  doit  se  jeter,  c’est  a sol  en- 
core tout  empreint  de  l’humidite  de  la  creation,  qu’il  doit  fouler  d’un  pied 
adventereux. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


109 


When  arrived  at  a marriageable  age,  and  the  peace  of 
Europe  had  again  established  that  intercourse  which  war 
had  suspended,  his  father  formed  the  project  of  uniting  him 
to  a princess  of  the  house  of  Austria,  and  the  Archduchess 
Leopoldina,  daughter  of  the  Emperor  Francis  I.  and  sister 
to  Maria  Louisa,  late  Empress  of  France,  was  fixed  upon  as 
his  wife.  The  marriage  was  negotiated  by  the  Marquis  of 
Marialva,  the  Portuguese  ambassador  at  the  Austrian  court. 
It  was  celebrated  by  proxy  on  the  13th  of  May,  1817,  and 
that  day  was  fixed  on  as  auspicious,  because  it  was  that  of 
the  advancement  of  his  grandmother  to  the  throne,  and  also 
the  birthday  of  his  father  Dom  John.  On  the  5t,h  of  No- 
vember following  the  vessel  arrived,  bearing  the  young  queen, 
who  at  once  secured  golden  opinions  from  all  the  Brazilians. 
The  princess  was  described  to  me,  by  people  who  saw  her 
on  her  arrival,  as  a very  interesting  figure.  A person  not 
tall,  but  well-proportioned,  dark  blue  eyes,  regular  features, 
very  fair,  with  a good  complexion,  which,  with  her  light 
flaxen  hair,  formed  a strong  contrast  to  the  dusky  hue  and 
coal-black  tresses  of  all  the  native  ladies  round  her.  But, 
above  all,  she  possessed  an  air  of  great  good-nature  and 
kindness  of  disposition,  which  always  distinguished  her  du- 
ring her  short  life:  These  personal  advantages,  with  a 

gentle  temper  and  an  affectionate  heart,  rendered  her  an 
object  of  great  interest  as  well  to  her  husband  as  to  her 
people. 

The  disturbances  now  burst  out  at  Pernambuco,  and  as 
Dom  Pedro  had  evinced  a liberal  feeling  in  the  political 
changes  which  Brazil  had  undergone,  it  was  insinuated  by 
his  enemies  he  had  some  privity  in  this  affair,  and  the  sus- 
picions of  his  father  were  excited.  On  this  occasion,  how- 
ever, to  justify  himself  from  such  injurious  imputations,  he 
raised  a battalion  of  all  the  domestics  and  people  employed 
about  the  court,  and  conferred  on  it  the  name  of  the  “Vol- 
unteers of  the  Prince  Royal.”  Fie  clothed  them  at  his  own 
expense,  disciplined  them  by  his  own  exertions,  and  offered 
them  to  his  father,  as  the  first  forces  to  take  the  field.  Not- 
withstanding this,  the  popular  feeling  which  had  begun  to 
evince  itself  in  his  favor,  was  suppressed  by  every  means, 
and  some  people  who  had  cried  “ vivas  ! ” for  him  at  the 
theatre,  were  sent  to  prison  as  disaffected. 

Immediately  after  the  revolution  took  place  at  Oporto, 
and  soon  spread  over  Portugal.  This  excited  a strong  sen- 
sation in  Brazil,  and  Dom  Pedro  took  a decided  part  in  its 
10 


no 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


favor.  The  councils  held,  were  conducted  with  the  great- 
est irresolution  and  disorder,  by  men  who  wanted  energy 
to  take  a decided  part,  and  Dom  Pedro  was  excluded  from 
their  deliberations.  On  one  occasion,  he  suddenly  enter- 
ed unnoticed,  charged  the  members  with  intending  only  to 
deceive  the  people,  and  the  sitting  was  dissolved  in  great 
confusion.  On  the  18th  of  February,  the  king  announced 
his  intention  to  take  into  consideration  the  proposed  consti- 
tution, and  published  a manifesto,  that  he  would  send  his 
son,  Dom  Pedro,  to  Lisbon,  to  treat  with  the  cortes  on  the 
subject  ; but  this  temporizing  expedient  had  no  effect  in 
calming  the  public  mind. 

On  the  25th  of  February,  1821,  the  city  of  Rio  was  thrown 
into  the  greatest  state  of  alarm  and  agitation,  by  the  auxil- 
iary division  of  Portuguese.  When  the  disturbance  had 
taken  place  at  Pernambuco,  and  all  the  disposable  force  of 
Rio  was  despatched  to  suppress  it,  it  was  thought  expedient 
to  send  to  Portugal  for  an  additional  supply  of  troops,  and 
on  the  18th  of  October,  1817,  they  arrived,  disembarked  at 
the  bridge  of  S.  Christovao,  and  were  encamped  in  front 
of  Boa  Vista.  They  consisted  of  four  battalions  of  the  line, 
one  of  light  infantry,  and  a brigade  of  artillery.  The  re- 
volutionary movement  at  Pernambuco  had  been  suppressed 
before  their  arrival ; but  though  rendering  no  service  to  the 
country  or  government,  they  assumed  an  air  of  insolent  su- 
periority in  everything,  treated  the  whole  community  among 
whom  they  sojourned  as  disaffected,  and  acted  towards  them 
as  if  they  only  came  to  trample  on  and  keep  them  under  ; 
they  required  that  Brazilian  officers  above  the  rank  of  cap- 
tain should  be  dismissed,  and  their  duties  filled  by  Portu- 
guese alone  ; the  soldiers  paraded  and  mounted  guard  in 
splendid  uniforms,  while  the  natives  in  the  same  service  ap- 
peared in  rags,  with  wood  in  their  musket-locks,  as  if  they 
could  not  be  trusted  with  flints  • and  in  effect,  it  appeared 
to  the  people  as  if  this  “ auxiliary  division”  had  it  in  design 
to  extinguish  altogether  that  feeling  of  consequence  which 
the  people  of  the  country  had  cherished  since  Brazil  was 
erected  into  a kingdom,  and  to  reduce  it  again  to  that  state 
of  provincial  insignificance  from  which  it  had  just  emerged. 
Complaints  of  mutual  aggression  were  continually  made,  and 
dislike  grew  into  open  enmity.  The  soldiers  now  took 
arms  in  their  barracks,  tumultuary  groups  of  the  people  wan- 
dered about  in  a high  state  of  excitement  through  the  streets, 
and  everything  seemed  to  announce  an  immediate  commo- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Ill 


tion.  The  ministers  retired  in  consternation  to  the  palace 
of  S.  Christovao,  to  consult  with  the  king,  who  was  there  ; 
but  Dom  Pedro,  mounting  his  horse,  rode  instantly  to  the 
barracks  of  the  soldiers,  where  he  caused  them  to  lay  aside 
their  arms  ; he  then  ran  through  the  public  places,  address- 
ed the  different  groups  of  the  people,  and  by  long  and  ear- 
nest persuasions  induced  them  all  to  return  to  their  own 
homes  ; and  having  performed  this  important  duty  by  his 
single  personal  exertions,  he  repaired  to  the  palace,  to  report 
that  all  was  perfectly  quiet. 

On  the  next  day,  the  auxiliary  division  marched  out  of 
their  barracks,  and  took  possession  of  the  Rocio  square,  in 
which  the  theatre  is  situated,  and  again  everything  seemed 
to  threaten  an  explosion  in  the  city.  The  camera  assem- 
bled in  the  saloon  of  the  theatre,  and  the  people  filled  the 
streets.  The  constitution  established  in  Portugal  was  ear- 
nestly desired  by  the  Brazilians  and  the  troops,  and  it  was 
supposed  that  the  acceptance  of  it  by  the  king  would  at  once 
reconcile  and  amalgamate  all  parties.  This  the  prince  re- 
presented to  his  father  in  the  strongest  manner,  and  the 
well-disposed  monarch,  who  seemed  to  wish  for  nothing  but 
what  might  be  for  the  real  benefit  of  his  subjects,  allowed  his 
son  to  act  in  the  emergency  as  thought  most  advisable.  He 
immediately  rode  at  full  speed  to  the  Rocio,  and  announced 
to  all  he  met  the  kmg7s  acquiescence.  He  then  arranged 
it  so  that  the  Brazilian  troops  should  join  with  the  auxilia- 
ries, and  meet  the  assembled  people  ; and  a deputation  of 
the  whole  was  formed  to  wait  on  himself,  and  request  that 
the  ministers  should  be  dismissed,  and  the  constitution  pro- 
claimed. Having  again  conferred  with  his  father,  he  pre 
sented  himself  at  the  balcony  of  the  theatre,  which  looks 
into  the  square,  holding  in  his  hand  the  pen  with  which  he 
had  drawn  out  the  list  of  new  ministers,  displayed  a paper 
containing  their  names,  and  informed  the  people  that  the 
king  had  acceded  to  the  constitution  ; he  then  took  the  fol- 
lowing oath  in  his  name  : u I swear,  in  the  name  of  the  king, 
my  father  and  lord,  veneration  and  respect  for  our  holy  re- 
ligion, and  to  observe,  keep,  and  support,  forever,  the 
constitution  as  it  is  established  by  the  cortes  in  Portugal,” 
which  the  king  himself  ratified  afterwards  at  the  window  of 
the  palace.  The  army  and  the  people  were  now  clamorous 
to  see  the  king,  and  Dom  Pedro  rode  to  the  palace  to  re- 
quest his  father  would  comply  with  their  wishes.  The  tim- 
id but  good-natured  monarch  acquiesced,  and  as  he  was 


112 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


proceeding  to  the  Rocio,  he  met  a detachment  of  the  mob, 
who,  like  their  brethren  of  England,  proceeded  to  unyoke 
the  horses,  and  harness  themselves  to  the  carriage.  The 
king,  altogether  unacquainted  with  this  ceremony,  was  great- 
ly alarmed.  I have  heard  from  those  who  were  present,  that 
he  grew  as  pale  as  death,  and  fell  back  in  the  carriage, 
fainting  with  terror  and  dismay.  The  horrors  of  the  French 
revolution  were  before  his  eyes,  and  he  expected  that  the 
fate  of  its  unfortunate  monarch,  who  resembled  himself  in 
irresolution  and  goodness  of  heart,  would  soon  be  his  own. 

Not  so  Dom  Pedro  : he  showed  an  ardor  and  energy 
through  the  whole  of  this  trying  transaction  that  marked  a 
decided  and  intrepid  character.  He  rode  forward,  sword 
in  hand,  from  place  to  place,  took  the  command  of  the 
troops,  and  killed  two  horses  under  him  by  his  continued 
exertions.  Whatever  may  have  been  his  private  senti- 
ments, this  public  conduct  was  the  only  one  left  him  to  pur- 
sue. It  was  impossible  at  the  time  to  stem  the  torrent  of 
public  opinion  ; he  acted  more  prudently  by  directing  it, 
and  becoming  the  idol  of  the  people.  Similar  popular 
movements  took  place  at  Bahia  and  other  principal  towms, 
and  in  a short  time  the  constitutional  government  of  Portu- 
gal was  recognized,  with  apparent  enthusiasm,  all  over 
Brazil. 

The  next  evening  was,  as  usual  on  all  popular  movements 
in  Brazil,  distinguished  by  a brilliant  opera  ; but  the  king 
was  so  exhausted  by  the  exertions  and  alarms  of  the  day 
before,  that  he  was  unable  to  attend  ; and  on  this  occasion 
the  people  exhibited  a trait  of  national  usage  rather  singu- 
lar. The  portraits  of  the  king  and  queen  went  to  the  thea- 
tre as  proxies  for  the  originals  ; they  were  exhibited  in  the 
front  of  the  box,  and  received  from  the  people  the  same 
homage  and  applause  as  if  the  persons  they  represented 
were  really  present.  In  countries  where  a certain  sanctity 
and  virtue  is  supposed  to  be  communicated  to  a picture  or 
image,  which  merely  represents  the  person  in  whom  these 
qualities  are  supposed  to  have  resided,  this  homage  to  paint 
and  canvass  may  be  accounted  for. 

The  king,  harassed,  it  should  appear,  by  storms  and  agi- 
tations, which  now  began  to  shake  his  adopted  country,  so 
different  from  the  calm  submission  and  grateful  respect  of 
the  people,  by  which  his  residence  for  several  years  had 
been  distinguished  ; and  unable  any  longer  to  control  or 
direct  the  temper  of  his  formerly  tractable  subjects  in 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


113 


America,  determined  to  comply  with  the  invitation  he  re- 
ceived from  the  cortes  at  Lisbon,  and  to  return  to  Europe  ; 
and  on  the  7th  of  March,  he  published  a proclamation, 
announcing  his  intention,  together  with  an  order  that  such 
deputies  to  the  cortes  as  might  be  elected  at  the  time  of  his 
departure,  should  sail  with  him,  and  that  the  rest  should 
follow  as  soon  as  they  were  ready.  Tranquillity  seemed 
no\V  restored,  and  the  people  had  no  pretext  or  apparent 
wish  to  disturb  it  ; when  an  incident  occurred  which  excites 
the  most  painful  reflections,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  base  and 
atrocious  to  be  found  even  in  the  records  of  revolutions. 

While  preparing  to  depart,  it  was  proposed  to  call  the 
electors  of  the  deputies  together,  to  submit  to  them  a plan 
prepared  for  the  government  of  Brazil,  in  order  to  have  their 
opinion,  and,  if  approved  of,  their  sanction, — the  king  pro- 
posing, with  his  usual  wish  to  conciliate,  that  if  any  part  of 
the  plan  of  the  regency  was  disapproved  of,  he  would  adopt 
such  alteration  as  they  suggested.  The  electors  on  this  in- 
vitation were  regularly  convened  by  the  Ouvidor  of  the 
Commarca,  who  acted  on  such  occasion  as  our  high  sheriff, 
and  assembled  at  the  Exchange. 

When  the  opening  of  the  ports  of  Brazil  had  invited  the 
commerce  of  the  world,  and  the  increase  of  trade  at  Rio 
had  rendered  a new  Exchange  necessary,  it  was  resolved 
to  build  one  on  a scale  commensurate  with  the  wants  of  the 
port.  The  place  fixed  on  was  in  the  Rua  Direita,  beside 
the  Custom-house  ; a number  of  old  edifices  were  thrown 
down,  and  an  area,  open  from  the  sea  to  the  street,  was 
cleared  for  the  building.  It  was  commenced  in  October, 
1819,  and  opened  for  business  in  the  May  following.  The 
house  was  160  palms  long  and  145  broad  ; the  floor,  ele- 
vated six  steps  above  the  level  of  the  street,  was  entered 
and  passed  through  by  four  large  arched  gates  on  opposite 
sides,  the  two  principal  opening  to  the  street  and  the  sea. 
The  interior  had  a central  dome,  with  four  transepts  issuing 
from  it  at  right  angles,  forming  a cross,  extending  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  building,  with  galleries  at  each  end,  sup- 
ported by  twentytwo  doric  fluted  columns.  The  coup  d’ceil 
of  this  hall  was  very  striking,  as  it  had  a classical  air,  very 
unlike  the  dull  and  heavy  public  edifices  in  every  other  part 
of  the  city.  Statues  of  the  four  quarters  of  the  world  in- 
dicated the  extent  to  which  the  trade  of  Brazil  had  been 
thrown  open,  and  Commerce,  Navigation,  Industry,  and 
Agriculture,  the  arts  which  it  cherished  and  encouraged. 

10* 


114 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


As  the  king  always  wished  to  distinguish  his  birthdays  by 
some  act  affording  agreeable  recollections,  he  appointed  the 
13th  of  May  for  the  opening  of  this  edifice,  and  it  formed 

kind  of  jubilee  in  Rio.  The  king  took  his  barge,  landed 
at  the  sea  portal,  and  visited  the  hall,  which  was  brilliantly 
illuminated.  The  British  merchants  deputed  one  of  their 
body,  who  addressed  him  in  the  following  words  : — “ Senhor, 
it  is  incumbent  on  the  British  merchants,  resident  in  the  city, 
to  congratulate  your  Majesty  on  this  occasion,  and  to  thank 
you  for  the  protection  and  favor  you  have  always  afforded  to 
their  commerce.  I,  with  them,  sincerely  pray  that  you  may 
live  many  years,  to  animate  that  commerce,  and  render  hap- 
py those  who  live  under  your  prosperous  reign.”  Having 
made  a suitable  answer,  the  king,  with  his  family,  sat  down 
to  a collation  prepared  for  the  occasion  ; which  was  follow- 
ed by  a ball,  and  they  departed  amidst  acclamations  and 
music. 

As  this  building  formed  a distinguished  era  in  the  annals 
of  Brazil,  indicating  the  great  political  changes  the  country 
had  undergone,  and  the  vast  influx  of  wealth  it  had  acquir- 
ed, it  was  a temple  to  which  they  attached  a kind  of  vene- 
ration ; and  here  the  first  electors  convened  in  the  country, 
were  determined  to  hold  their  important  meeting.  Several 
of  the  citizens  combined  to  add  to  its  ornament  on  the  oc- 
casion, at  their  own  private  expense  ; one  covered  the  seats 
with  velvet,  another  sent  silver  candlesticks,  and  every  one 
was  eager  to  contribute  to  the  decoration  and  display  of  the 
first  national  assembly  of  Brazil.  It  was  naturally  to  be 
expected  that  much  irregularity  should  occur  in  a meeting 
entirely  unused  to  form,  and  unacquainted  with  the  extent 
of  its  powers.  The  debates,  therefore,  were  turbulent,  and 
some  ot  their  demands  extravagant.  They  proposed  that 
the  Constitution  of  Spain  should  be  the  model  of  that  of 
Portugal,  to  which  the  king  assented.  A rumor  was  spread 
that  the  Portuguese  troops  were  coming  to  disperse  them  ; 
but  their  commander,  being  summoned  before  them,  assured 
them  it  was  not  so.  It  was  affirmed  that  the  king  was  about 
to  carry  off  with  him  a large  treasure  from  the  country,  and 
had  actually  embarked  a quantity  of  public  property,  even 
the  funds  of  some  charitable  institutions.  It  was  well  known, 
that  prodigality  and  rapacity  had  been  the  besetting  sins  of 
the  government  of  Brazil,  and  this  rumor  gained  implicit 
credit.  It  was  moved,  therefore,  that  the  vessels  should  be 
searched,  and  orders  were  sent  to  the  commanders  of  the 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


115 


forts  of  Santa  Cruz  and  Lage,  to  stop  the  ships  of  the  squa- 
dron, if  they  attempted  to  sail. 

It  was  now  past  midnight,  and  some  of  the  electors  had 
retired  ; but,  from  the  importance  of  their  proceedings,  the 
hall  was  still  crowded,  when  the  edifice  was  suddenly  sur- 
rounded by  a regiment  of  soldiers,  with  fixed  bayonets,  and 
loaded  muskets.  Without  the  smallest  notice  of  their  ap- 
proach, or  any  intimation  to  the  people  to  disperse,  they 
rushed  on  the  unarmed  meeting,  poured  a volley  among 
them,  and  then  charged  with  their  bayonets.  Nothing  could 
be  more  horrible  than  the  scene  of  carnage  which  followed 
— a number  of  brutal  soldiers  assassinating  unarmed  citizens 
in  a closed-up  room.  Those  who  were  not  killed  or  wound- 
ed, attempted  to  escape  through  the  windows  ; some  were 
crushed  to  death  by  the  fall,  and  some  fled  forward  into  the 
sea,  and  were  drowned.  Meantime,  the  soldiers  deliberate- 
ly proceeded  to  plunder  ; they  robbed  the  dead  and  wound- 
ed of  their  watches  and  valuables,  and  stripped  the  room  of 
the  plate  and  candlesticks,  and,  having  thus  glutted  them- 
selves with  blood  and  plunder,  dispersed. 

I have  conversed  with  several  persons  who  were  present 
on  this  occasion,  who  informed  me  of  the  fate  of  some  of 
their  friends.  One  man  was  a Brazilian,  doing  business  in 
an  English  house.  Hearing  a bustle  near  the  door,  he 
stood  up  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  and  was  shot  through 
the  heart  by  a soldier,  who  put  his  musket  close  to  his  breast. 
Another  was  a young  man,  who,  tired  with  the  length  of  the 
debate,  had  lain  down,  and  fallen  asleep  ; in  that  position 
he  was  pinned  to  the  bench  by  a soldier  who  stood  over  him, 
and  thrust  his  bayonet  through  his  back.  An  Englishman, 
of  the  name  of  Burnet,  had  been  employed  as  caretaker  of 
the  hall  ; he  was  attacked  by  a fellow  who  thrust  his  bay- 
onet at  his  belly.  Providentially  he  had  in  his  waistcoat 
pocket  a large  snuff-box,  and  the  point  of  the  bayonet  pass- 
ed through  the  lid,  but  not  the  bottom,  so  his  life  was  saved. 
About  thirty  persons  were  killed  or  wounded,  and  were 
found  dead  or  dying  on  the  spot,  besides  others  who  had  dis- 
appeared, some  of  whom  were  supposed  to  be  drowned,  and 
many  others  were  hurt  more  or  less  severely. 

The  next  day  the  event  was  as  if  it  had  never  happened. 
Such  was  the  debasing  terror  of  the  people,  that  no  inquiry 
was  attempted  to  be  made  as  to  the  instigators  of  the  meas- 
ure, or  the  number  of  victims  they  had  sacrificed.  The 
king  has  been  acquitted  by  all  ; his  habits  and  feelings  were 


116 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


acknowledged  to  have  been  altogether  repugnant  to  such  a 
deed  of  blood.  Some  consider  it  an  act  of  the  Conde  dos 
'Arcos,  whose  unrelenting  severity  had  been  already  exer- 
cised on  the  insurgents  of  Pernambuco.  He  was  some  time 
after  dismissed  from  the  situation  he  held  in  the  government, 
and  sent  home  to  Portugal  ; and  so  odious  did  he  become 
to  the  people,  that  they  would  not  allow  him  to  land  at  Bahia, 
where  a short  time  before  he  had  been  so  popular.  Others, 
and  the  greater  number  of  those  I have  conversed  with,  at- 
tribute it  to  Dom  Pedro  himself.  When  apprised  of  the 
proceedings  of  the  electors,  he  hastened,  they  say,  to  the 
Campo  de  St.  Anna  at  midnight,  and  taking  with  him  the 
regiment  of  ca^adores,  he  sent  them  forward  by  the  Rua 
d’Alfandega,  and  other  streets  wThich  led  to  the  Custom- 
house, with  orders  to  disperse  the  meeting  ; the  manner  of 
doing  it  was  their  own  sanguinary  act.  To  whomever  it  is 
to  be  attributed,  you  will  agree  with  me,  that  a more  base 
and  cowardly  assassination  was  never  perpetrated. 

Such  was  the  Jiorror  conceived  by  the  citizens  at  this 
event,  that  the  place  where  it  happened  was  totally  abandon- 
ed. No  merchant  would  afterwards  enter  the  Exchange  to 
transact  any  business,  and  it  remained  deserted  like  a haunt- 
ed house,  the  perforated  walls  and  blood-stained  floors  con- 
tinuingfor  a longtime  melancholy  memorials  of  the  massacre. 
These  were,  however,  at  length  removed,  the  walls  were  re- 
paired and  painted,  and  the  whole  again  elegantly  fitted  up  ; 
still  no  one  would  enter  it,  and  when  I visited  it,  with  a 
friend,  to  examine  its  localities,  this  fine  hall  was  converted 
into  an  iron  store,  filled  with  all  manner  of  lumber.  Some 
of  the  doors  and  windows  were  bricked  up  ; and  the  light 
and  elegant  building,  which  used  to  be  daily  crowded  with 
all  the  respectable  merchants  of  Rio,  was  then  a dirty  vault, 
frequented  only  by  negroes,  and  filled  with  old  iron. 

When  this  affair  was  mentioned  in  the  cortes  at  Lisbon, 
it  was  considered  only  a just  chastisement  on  the  turbulent 
provincials  of  Brazil ; and  one  of  the  sufferers  having  display- 
ed a handkerchief  stained  with  his  blood,  as  evidence  of  the 
fact,  the  whole  assembly  burst  out  laughing.  These  men,  so 
clamorous  for  liberty  themselves,  were  determined  that  their 
fellow  subjects  of  America  should  not  share  in  it,  and  this 
was  soon  evinced  by  their  conduct. 

The  king,  after  this  melancholy  event,  hastened  his  depar- 
ture. He  left  his  son  Prince  Regent,  with  a council  of  three 
ministers,  and,  in  the  event  of  his  death,  the  succession  to 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


117 


fall  to  the  Princess  Leopoldina.  He  addressed  the  troops, 
and  hoped  to  ensure  their  attachment  by  promising  an  in- 
crease of  pay,  but  he  left  nothing  in  the  treasury  for  that 
purpose.  He  embarked  on  the  24th  of  May,  and  many  of 
the  nobles  and  opulent  men  accompanied  him.  This  was  a 
serious  evil,  as  the  money  withdrawn  from  the  country,  and 
brought  back  by  these  returned  emigrants,  amounted  to  more 
than  fifty  millions  of  crusados,  which  was  deeply  felt  in  Bra- 
zil, and  the  cause  of  much  of  the  discontent  and  calamity 
which  followed. 

Nothing  could  form  a stronger  contrast  than  the  entrance 
of  Horn  John  VI.  into  Brazil,  and  his  departure.  He  was 
received  with  the  enthusiasm  of  respect  and  love,  which 
admiration  for.  the  person  of  their  king,  and  pity  for  his  ex- 
iled fortunes,  inspired.  All  his  first  acts  were  acknowledg- 
ed as  the  bounteous  boons  of  a benevolent  being  superior  to 
man,  and  are  so  spoken  of  in  the  contemporary  publications  ; 
and,  certainly,  no  nation  was  ever  more  indebted  to  a sove- 
reign than  the  Americans  to  him,  for  the  wise,  beneficent, 
and  liberal  decrees  which  marked  the  first  years  of  his  so- 
journ among  them.  He  gradually  laid  the  foundation  of 
that  independence  which  they  now  enjoy,  and  fitted  them 
for  it  by  a succession  of  acts  which  tended  to  improve  and 
enrich  the  country,  and  enlighten  the  people.  But  he  was 
altogether  unfitted,  by  the  meekness  of  his  character,  and 
the  timidity  and  irresolution  of  his  measures,  to  control  or 
direct  the  spirit  of  independence  when  once  excited.  His 
kindness  was  forgotten,  his  understanding  laughed  at,  his 
measures  thwarted  ; the  halo  of  respect  and  veneration 
which  encircled  his  person  was  entirely  dissipated,  and  he 
lived  to  see  his  subjects  endeavor  to  stop  him  like  a fugi- 
tive, who  was  carrying  away  clandestinely  a property  that 
did  not  belong  to  him. 


118 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


CHAP.  X. 

Question  of  the  Independence  of  Brazil  agitated. — J.  B.  d’Andrada. — Oppressive 
Conduct  of  the  Portuguese,  who  recall  Dom  Pedro. — Effect  on  the  Brazilians. — 
Mineiros  and  Paulistas  show  first  and  highest  Spirit. — Address  presented  by  An" 
drada. — Dom  Pedro  determines  not  to  return. — Composes  a Constitutional  Hymn. 
— Attempt  to  seize  him  at  the  Theatre. — Portuguese  Troops  take  a menacing  Posi- 
tion on  the  Castle-Hill. — Brazilians  assemble  at  the  Campo  de  St.  Anna. — Oblige 
the  Portuguese  to  pass  over  to  Praya  Grande. — Dismal  State  of  Rio. — Portuguese 
Troops  compelled  to  embark. — Plots  and  Conspiracies  in  Brazil. — Prompt  and  rigor- 
ous Conduct  of  Dom  Pedro. — Rapid  Journey  to  Villa  Rica,  and  its  Effects. — Admi- 
ration and  Enthusiasm  of  the  People  for  his  Person. — Confer  on  him  a new  Title. 
— Conduct  of  Portugal. — Cradle  of  Brazilian  Liberty. — Bahia  occupied  by  European 
Troops. — Female  Heroism. — Dom  Pedro  acclaimed  Constitutional  Emperor. — In- 
consistent with  the  Declarations  to  his  Father. — Lord  Cochrane  invited  from  Chile. 
—Proceeds  against  Bahia,  and  blockades  it. — Inhabitants  driven  from  the  Town. — 
Bold  Attempt  to  burn  the  Fleet. — Madeira  evacuates  the  Town,  and  i3  pursued 
across  the  Equator. — Horrible  Events  at  Para. 

Immediately  after  the  departure  of  the  king,  the  question 
of  the  entire  independence  of  Brazil  on  Portugal  began  to 
be  agitated,  and  the  determination  that  it  should  not  again 
be  reduced  to  the  situation  of  a province.  These  feelings 
were  strongly  excited  by  the  conduct  of  the  mother  country. 

Tile  prince  regent  licwl  met  With  some  opposition  in  cli/Ierent 

parts  of  Brazil,  where  the  people  declared  themselves  inde- 
pendent of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  amenable  only  to  the  cortes 
and  government  of  Portugal.  At  Villa  Rica  and  Maranhao 
the  cortes  was  proclaimed,  and  no  notice  taken  of  the  prince  ; 
and  even  the  troops  refused  to  acknowledge  him  if  they  did 
not  receive  the  promised  pay,  which  he  had  not  the  means 
of  giving.  But  the  disturbance  at  St.  Paul’s  was  more 
serious.  The  ca^adores  took  up  arms,  and  declared  they 
would  not  lay  them  down  till  their  demands  were  satisfied  ; 
and  the  militia  and  people,  assembled  before  the  camera  or 
town-hall,  demanded  a provisional  junta  for  the  government 
of  the  province  ; and  that  Jose  Bonafacio  d’Andrada  de 
Sylva,  an  accomplished  and  patriotic  citizen,  a native  of  St. 
Paul’s,  and  highly  popular,  should  be  president,  and  a depu- 
tation was  sent  to  invite  him.  The  standard  of  the  camera 
wTas  soon  after  displayed  at  one  window,  and  Andrada  ap- 
peared at  the  other.  He  accepted  the  situation,  the  junta 
was  installed,  and  having  exhorted  the  people  to  peace,  and 
submission  to  the  laws,  and  the  prince  as  Regent,  they  dis* 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


119 


persed,  and  all  was  quiet.  This  was  a most  important  event 
for  the  prince  : it  caused  his  disputed  authority  to  be  re- 
cognized in  the  most  influential  province  of  Brazil,  and  it 
was  the  foundation  of  an  ardent  attachment,  which  for  some 
time  afterwards  subsisted  between  him  and  the  family  of 
Andrada. 

when  the  state  and  feeling  of  the  people  of  Brazil  were 
known  at  Lisbon,  the  cortes  immediately  issued  their  sove- 
reign orders  ; and  on  the  9th  of  December,  the  brig  Dom 
Sebastiao . entered  the  port  of  Rio,  bearing  two  decrees  ; 
one  to  organize  a provisional  government,  which  should  re- 
duce the  country  again  to  the  condition  of  a province  ; and 
the  other,  ordering  the  immediate  return  of  the  prince  re- 
gent to  Portugal,  on  the  pretext  of  travelling  through  Eu- 
rope for  his  improvement.  These  decrees  the  prince  pre- 
pared to  obey,  and  the  Union  frigate  was  ordered  to  be  got 
ready  for  his  departure. 

It  was  now  that  the  Brazilians  seemed  moved  as  one  man, 
by  a feeling  in  which  all  equally  participated.  Hitherto 
partial  ebullitions  of  independence  and  republicanism  had 
shown  themselves  ; but,  as  the  objects  of  those  who  display- 
ed them  were  supposed  to  be  wild  and  visionary,  they  met 
with  but  little  sympathy  among  the  great  mass  of  the  people. 
On  this  occasion,  however,  there  seemed  to  be  but  one  sen- 
timent universally  in  Brazil  ; and  that  was,  that  it  should 
not  be  again  reduced  to  the  state  of  a colony  of  another 
country,  its  commerce  restricted,  its  ports  closed,  and  its  in- 
tercourse with  other  nations  regulated  by  the  narrow  and 
exclusive  policy  which  had  hitherto  kept  them  a secluded 
people,  and  in  utter  ignorance  of  the  rest  of  the  world. 

Among  the  engines  by  which  popular  feeling  was  at  this 
time  excited,  and  kept  up,  was  the  press,  which  teemed 
with  publications,  of  which  I procured  a large  collection. 
One  of  them  was  called  u O Despertador  Braziliense,”  the 
Brazilian  Alarum,  which  seemed  to  have  had  a powerful 
effect.  It  was  written,  I was  told,  by  an  eminent  civilian, 
O Doutor  Fran,  de  Franza  Miranda.  I send  you  the  fol- 
lowing passage  on  the  subject  of  the  decrees,  as  a specimen 
of  the  style  and  reasoning  of  these  young  people  : — “ The 
measure  is  illegal,  impious,  and  impolitic.  Illegal,  because 
it  has  been  decreed  without  the  co-operation  of  our  repre- 
sentatives ; consequently,  without  any  manifestation  of  the 
national  will.  Impious,  because  it  shows  the  contemptuous 
indifference  with  which  the  cortes  disposes  of  our  existence, 


120 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZILk 


as  if  we  were  a band  of  miserable  slaves,  created  to  be  sub- 
ject to  the  caprice,  and  abandoned  to  the  will  of  their  mas- 
ters ; and  not  a co-equal  kingdom  as  we  are,  more  pow- 
erful, and  possessing  more  resources  than  Portugal  herself. 
Impolitic,  because  it  is  precisely  at  the  moment  when  our 
union  will  be  most  advantageous  to  our  allied  country, 
that  she  chooses  to  fill  us  with  disgust,  and  to  render  to 
the  eyes  of  the  whole  world,  our  separation  to  be  a mat- 
ter both  of  justice  and  necessity.”  This  decided,  and 
hitherto  unheard  of  language,  was  received  with  astonishing 
avidity.  The  pamphlet  was  everywhere  circulated  through 
the  country,  and  all  classes  adopted  its  sentiments. 

The  first  portion  of  the  people  who  came  to  a decided  re- 
solution on  this  subject,  were  the  Paulistas,  and  the  Mine- 
iros,  who  originally  formed  but  one  province,  and  resembled 
each  other  in  spirit  and  independence.  They  had  been  the 
earliest  colonized,  and  were  the  richest,  as  well  as  the  most 
intelligent,  portion  of  the  country.  An  address  was  drawn 
up  in  their  name  byvtoze  d’Andrada  ; it  contained  the  fol- 
lowing passage  : “ How  dare  those  deputies  of  Portugal, 
without  deigning  to  wait  for  the  concurrence  of  those  of 
Brazil,  legislate  on  a matter  which  involves  the  most  sacred 
interests  of  the  entire  kingdom  ? How  dare  they  deprive 
Brazil  of  her  privy  council,  her  court  of  conscience,  her 
exchequer,  her  board  of  commerce,  her  court  of  requests, 
and  so  many  other  institutions,  just  established  among  us,  and 
which  promised  us  such  future  benefits  ? Where  now  must 
the  people  apply  on  their  civil  and  judicial  concerns  ? Must 
they  once  more,  after  enjoying  for  twelve  years  the  advan- 
tages of  speedy  justice,  seek  it  in  a foreign  land,  across  two 
thousand  leagues  of  ocean,  among  the  procrastinations  and 
corruptions  of  Lisbon  tribunals,  where  the  oppressed  suitor 
is  abandoned  by  hope  and  life  ? ” This  address  concluded 
with  a request,  that  the  prince  would  not  abandon  Brazil, 
nor  suffer  himself  to  be  “ led  about  like  a school-boy,  sur- 
rounded by  masters  and  spies,”*  and  it  was  followed  by  an- 
other, presented  by  the  camera  of  Rio,  breathing  the  same 
sentiment. 

As  the  prince  had  not  yet  expressed  his  sentiments,  the 
Portuguese  troops,  who  entered  into  all  the  feelings  and  as- 
sumed all  the  consequence  of  the  mother  country,  talked 
without  disguise  of  his  being  obliged  to  perform  what  they 

* Fazer  viajar  como  hum  Pupillo,  rodeado  de  aios  e de  espias. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL; 


121 


called  his  duty,  in  obeying  the  mandates  of  the  cortes  ; but 
the  prince  determined  at  once  to  decide  on  his  line  of  con- 
duct, so  he  replied  to  the  deputation  of  the  camera,  that  u as 
it  appeared  to  be  the  general  wish  and  for  the  general  good, 
he  would  remain.”  This  declaration  was  received  with 
huzzas,  followed  by  discharges  of  artillery  and  fireworks, 
which  soon  announced  the  news  in  every  direction.  A bril- 
liant opera,  as  usual,  succeeded,  and  the  prince  and  princess 
appeared  full  dressed  in  their  box  ; orators  of  all  kinds  had 
speeches  ready,  and  when  called  on,  appeared  on  the  stage 
and  delivered  them : and  it  was  on  this  evening,  I believe, 
that  the  celebrated  national  hymn  was  for  the  first  time  play- 
ed and  sung.  The  prince,  as  I mentioned  to  you,  is  an  ex- 
cellent musician,  and  now  proved  himself  a poet  : he  com- 
posed both  the  words  and  air  of  a song  for  this  occasion,  of 
which  the  following  is  a translation. 

te  Children  of  your  country,  prizing 
High  your  honored  parents’  weal. 

See  the  star  of  freedom  rising. 

Radiant  o’er  your  loved  Brazil. 

te  Bold  Brazilians,  far  repelling 
Fear  that  timid  dastards  feel, 

Liberty  our  land  shall  dwell  in. 

Or  our  grave  shall  be  Brazil.”  * 

When  the  prince’s  determination  was  known,  the  Portu- 
guese troops  spoke  openly  of  taking  him  by  force  to  the  ship 
sent  for  him,  and  a plan  was  organized  for  the  purpose  while 
he  was  at  the  opera.  The  theatre  was  surrounded  by  sol- 
diers, who  had  orders  to  seize  his  person  and  convey  him  to 
the  vessel,  which  was  immediately  to  set  sail  before  any  no- 
tification of  it  should  transpire.  But  the  prince  looking  out 
of  one  of  the  windows  of  the  corridor,  and  seeing  an  unusual 
number  of  persons,  immediately  became  suspicious,  that  it 
was  for  some  purpose  with  which  he  was  not  acquainted, 
and  he  instantly  directed  General  Caretti  to  order  them  to 
their  quarters.  The  alarm  was  instantly  spread  ; the  Bra- 
zilian troops  ran  to  arms  ; and  the  Portuguese,  irresolute 
and  unprepared  for  this,  retired  without  making  any  attempt. 
They  still,  however,  maintained  a menacing  attitude  : it  was 
determined  that  something  decided  must  be  done  ; and  it 
was  resolved  to  send  them  immediately  back  to  Portugal. 


11 


See  Appendix,  No.  III. 


122 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  troops,  however,  to  the  number  of  700,  took  up  a po- 
sition on  the  castle  hill,  commanding  the  principal  streets, 
and  from  hence  with  four  pieces  of  artillery  they  threatened 
to  batter  down  the  city.  Here  they  expected  to  be  joined 
by  the  troops  at  S.  Christovao,  amounting  to  about  500  men. 
They  did  not  join  them  ; but  the  reason  they  assigned  for 
not  doing  so,  was  a subject  of  much  more  alarm  to  the  Bra- 
zilians. They  said  their  duty  was  to  attend  the  person  of 
the  prince  ; and  from  that  moment  he  was  considered  a pri- 
soner in  their  hands. 

This  state  of  things  could  not  be  endured,  and  the  whole 
city  was  on  the  alert.  The  greatest  exertions  were  made, 
without  a moment’s  cessation,  all  night.  The  citizens  sent 
their  horses  and  mules  to  convey  arms  and  ammunition  ;• 
expresses  were  despatched  in  every  direction.  The  militia 
and  all  the  Brazilian  troops  in  the  neighborhood  crowded 
into  the  town  and  assembled  at  the  campo  de  St.  Anna,  and 
by  sun-rise  in  the  morning  there  appeared  drawn  up  there, 
a force  of  between  4 and  5000  men,  headed  by  the  prince, 
and  prepared  for  action.  The  Brazilian  troops  now  formed 
a cordon  round  the  base  of  the  hill  on  which  the  Portuguese 
had  taken  their  station,  and  cut  them  off  from  all  communi- 
cation from  below,  and  from  supplies  of  provision,  which 
they  had  neglected  to  provide  ; so,  finding  themselves  in  a 
hopeless  situation,  and  all  chance  of  success  against  a whole 
population  destroyed,  they  submitted  to  the  terms  proposed 
to  them,  and  agreed  to  be  transported  across  the  Bay  to 
the  Praya  Grande,  an  open  and  level  plain  on  the  opposite 
side.  It  was  the  intention  of  the  prince  to  have  them  imme- 
diately embarked  on  their  arrival  and  sent  to  Portugal  ; but 
there  were  no  transports  or  provisions  ready,  and  they  were 
permitted  to  encamp  while  they  were  prepared. 

During  all  these  trying  events,  Dom  Pedro  acted  with  an 
energy,  promptness,  and  decision,  which  could  hardly  be 
expected  from  his  years  and  inexperience.  He  had  made 
his  election,  and  he  proceeded  firmly  to  execute  it  ; but 
his  ministers,  adverse  or  timid,  would  not  second  him  ; and 
his  situation  was  rendered  still  more  trying  and  embarras- 
sing by  their  desertion.  They  resigned  their  situations,  and 
he  applied  to  others  to  fill  up  the  vacancies.  They  also, 
feeble  or  irresolute  in  such  doubtful  events,  declined  the 
dangerous  situation  ; till  at  length  he  sent  to  St.  Paul’s, 
and  the  popular  magistrate  Andrada,  for  whom  he  had 
contracted  a personal  regard,  came  to  his  aid  and  accepted 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


123 


the  situation  of  minister  of  justice  and  foreign  affairs,  and 
others  followed  his  example.  A remarkable  instance  of  the 
state  of  the  public  mind  occurred  on  this  occasion.  It  was 
generally  rumored  that  the  Portuguese  troops  intended  to 
arrest  the  ministers  on  their  way  to  the  capital,  and  it  was 
deemed  necessary  to  double  the  patrols  and  station  guards 
along  the  roads  for  their  personal  security  ; but  no  attempt 
was  made  against  them. 

The  state  of  Rio  at  this  time,  as  described  to  me,  was 
very  dismal : all  the  shops  were  closed,  and  all  the  streets 
abandoned.  The  shop-keepers  were  all  enrolled  among  the 
military  as  militia,  and  were  distinguished  by  no  uniform, 
but  paraded  before  their  doors,  with  cross-belts  of  raw  hides 
over  their  ordinary  clothes.  They  are  generally  persons  o 
low  stature,  and  who,  from  their  sedentary  habits  of  life,  be- 
come very  corpulent  and  disinclined  to  move  if  they  can 
avoid  it.  On  this  occasion,  however,  they  were  all  activity, 
and  showed  an  alertness  so  superior  to  the  Portuguese,  that 
the  troops  acquired  distinctive  appellations  by  contrast ; the 
Brazilians  were  called,  I think,  Pe  da  Cabra,  foot  of  the 
goat,  from  their  activity  ; and  the  Portuguese,  Pe  de  Chum- 
bo,  foot  oflead,  from  their  heavy  tread  in  marching.  These 
long  after  continued  as  sobriquets  of  the  different  partisans 
of  all  classes,  applied  indiscriminately  on  both  sides. 

The  transports  were  now  ready,  but  the  Portuguese  troops 
refused,  under  various  pretexts,  to  embark.  One  of  the  ar- 
ticles of  their  removal  to  Praya  Grande  stipulated  that  they 
should  retain  their  arms,  and  they  seemed  preparing  to  use 
them.  Prompt  means  were  taken  here  also,  to  frustrate  any 
attempt  they  could  make.  A strong  cordon  of  native  troops 
was  drawn  up  in  their  rear,  to  cut  off  their  return  to  the 
city  by  land,  and  two  frigates  were  moored  close  beside 
them  at  sea.  Dom  Pedro,  accompanied  by  his  new  minis-: 
try,  appeared  on  board  one  of  the  frigates,  and  calling  on  the 
general  of  the  Portuguese,  he  informed  him  he  was  allowed 
till  next  day  to  embark  ; and  if  at  that  time  he  had  not  pro- 
ceeded on  board,  he  would  commence  a fire  on  him  by  sea 
and  land.  To  suit  the  action  to  the  word,  I am  told,  he 
held  in  his  hand  a lighted  match,  and  declared  he  would  be 
the  man  himself  who  would  discharge  the  first  gun.  This 
declaration,  and  the  known  character  of  the  prince,  resolute 
to  carry  it  into  effect,  was  decisive  ; the  next  day  the  troops 
were  all  embarked  and  sailing  from  the  harbor. 


124 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


It  was  hoped  that  when  the  Portuguese  soldiers  were  re- 
moved, all  cause  of  agitation  would  subside,  and  the  dis- 
play of  public  feeling  convince  the  cortes,  how  unwise  as 
well  as  desperate  was  the  project  of  attempting  to  reduce 
such  a country  again  to  the  state  of  a colony.  But  this 
was  not  the  case.  Among  the  political  schemes  of  Portugal 
to  secure  the  entire  dependence  of  Brazil,  one  was  to  divide 
it  into  several  captainces,  each  independent  of  all  the  rest, 
and  deriving  their  authority  only  from  the  mother-country. 
They  hoped  by  these  means  to  destroy  the  bond  of  unanimi- 
ty, and  erect  a number  of  petty  principalities,  all  jealous  of 
each  other,  and  looking  up  for  countenance  and  support 
only  to  the  cortes.  The  effect  of  this  soon  began  to  operate. 
Maranhao,  Bahia,  and  other  places  had  been  actuated  by 
this  spirit  ; and  to  keep  it  alive,  a fresh  force  was  sent  out 
from  Portugal,  under  General  Madeira,  who  landed  in 
Bahia,  in  February,  1822,  and  took  military  possession  of 
the  city. 

Meantime  plots  and  conspiracies  were  every  day  forming 
in  the  ardent  and  unsettled  mind  of  the  people,  and  wild  and 
impracticable  schemes  of  all  kinds  were  planned  in  different 
places.  The  Minas  Geraes  had  early  distinguished  itself 
by  its  independent  and  revolutionary  opinions,  and  a faction, 
headed  by  the  Juiz  da  Fora,  and  supported  by  an  officer  of 
ca^adores,  set  up  the  standard  of  insurrection  at  Villa  Rica, 
the  capital,  and  refused  to  acknowledge  the  authority  of  the 
Prince.  On  this  occasion  also  Dom  Pedro  displayed  the 
untiring  activity  and  energy  of  his  character.  He  ordered 
troops  to  march  to  the  disaffected  places,  but  he  did  not  wait 
for  their  tardy  progress  ; leaving  Andrada  to  conduct  the 
government  in  his  absence,  he  set  out  himself  in  person  for 
the  insurgent  capital.  The  boldness  and  rapidity  of  his 
movements  at  once  astonished  and  disconcerted  them.  The 
militia  of  the  Comarca,  who  advanced  from  Villa  Rica  to 
oppose  his  forces,  immediately  submitted  to  himself,  when 
they  met  him  on  the  road  alone  and  without  an  army. 
He  entered  Villa  Rica  on  the  9th  of  April  : the  revolution- 
ary parties  immediately  dissolved  and  joined  the  camera 
and  magistrates,  in  a deputation  to  receive  him.  He  made 
them  a speech,  in  which  he  complimented  them  on  their 
zeal,  and  congratulated  them,  that  the  fetters  of  slavery 
which  had  bound  them,  were  now  burst  asunder  by  them- 
selves ; bade  them  be  free  and  constitutional,  and  rely  on 
him  as  he  relied  on  them,  and  concluded  by  shouting  vivas 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


125 


for  ills  constitution,  religion,  honest  men,  and  the  mineiros. 
He  inflicted  no  punishment  on  the  conspirators,  except  sus- 
pension from  office  ; and  having  secured  the  attachment  of 
the  place,  returned  with  the  same  rapidity  to  Rio  as  he  had 
advanced.  In  thirty  days  he  traversed  near  1000  miles, 
almost  unattended,  across  serras  and  campos,  through  wild 
and  almost  impassable  roads  ; established  peace,  good  order 
and  attachment,  among  the  disaffected,  without  a single  act 
of  severity  ; and  on  the  evening  of  his  arrival  at  Rio,  he 
proceeded  to  the  opera,  and  announced  that  the  Minas  and  its 
capital  had  returned  to  their  duty.  From  that  time  the  city 
changed  its  name,  and  was  called  u Cidade  Imperiale,”  to 
commemorate  this  rapid  and  extraordinary  visit. 

The  admiration  and  enthusiasm  of  the  people  for  his  per- 
son had  now  attained  their  height.  The  13th  of  May  was  the 
anniversary  of  the  birth  of  his  father,  and  of  the  advance- 
ment of  his  grandmother  to  the  throne  of  Portugal  ; and  the 
Brazilians  determined  to  distinguish  it  by  another  circum- 
stance. A deputation  of  the  camera  waited  on  him,  with 
a request  that  he  would  accept  the  title  of  “ Constitutional 
Prince  Regent,  and  perpetual  defender  of  Brazil.”  He  ac- 
cepted the  title,  the  latter  part  of  which  is  still  retained,  and 
impressed  on  his  coins. ^ He  was  then  invited,  by  a depu- 
tation from  St.  Paul’s  and  the  Minas,  to  call  together  a 
general  council  to  deliberate  on  public  affairs — he  com- 
plied with  their  request,  and  they  soon  after  assembled. 

The  whole  of  Brazil  seemed  now  impressed  with  the  con- 
viction, that  it  was  no  longer  possible  to  continue  united 
with  Portugal,  and  this  feeling  was  brought  to  a crisis  by 
the  Lisbon  cortes.  The  most  fierce  and  insulting  language 
was  used  towards  Brazil  in  their  sittings,  in  which  the  peo- 
ple in  the  galleries  participated.  Like  all  nations  under 
similar  circumstances,  their  pride  was  wounded,  and  their 
prejudices  roused,  that  their  colonists  should  dare  to  think 
or  act  otherwise  than  they  chose  to  dictate  ; and  they  had  no 
notion  of  communicating  to  them  that  liberty  of  thinking 
and  speaking,  which  they  were  so  clamorous  in  demanding 
for  themselves.  Whenever  the  Brazilian  deputies  attempt- 
ed to  remonstrate  or  advocate  the  cause  of  their  country, 
they  were  put  down  by  acclamation,  and  decrees  were  past, 
peremptorily  ordering  the  Prince  to  Europe  in  four  months, 
and  denouncing  all  military  commanders  who  obeyed  his  or- 
ders, unless  by  compulsion,  as  traitors  to  Portugal. 

* Perp.  Bras.  Def. 

11* 


126 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


When  the  news  of  these  proceedings  arrived  in  Brazil 
Dom  Pedro  was  at  a distance  from  the  capital,  at  the  little 
town  of  Piranga  ; and  as  soon  as  he  received  the  despatches, 
he  was  struck  with  their  contents,  and  remained  for  some 
time  in  deep  meditation  on  them.  At  length,  roused  as  it 
were  from  his  reverie,  and  well  convinced  of  the  senti- 
ments of  all  around  him,  he  exclaimed  “ Independence,  or 
Death  ! ” and  the  exclamation  was  repeated  with  enthusiasm 
by  all  who  heard  it.  From  this  circumstance,  I have  heard 
it  said  that  the  town  of  Piranga  is  considered  by  the  people, 
as  the  cradle  of  Brazilian  independence.* 

Meantime,  fresh  troops  were  daily  arriving  to  reinforce 
Madeira  in  Bahia,  continual  sorties  were  made  by  the  garri- 
son, as  if  into  an  enemy’s  country,  and  the  Brazilians  col- 
lected a large  force  to  suppress  their  excesses.  These  took 
post  at  Caxoeira,  and  were  continually  augmented  by  fresh 
levies,  who  shut  up  Madeira  in  the  town,  as  the  North 
Americans  did  the  English  army  at  Boston.  It  is  in  revolu- 
tionary times,  when  the  feelings  of  men  are  in  a high  state  of 
excitement,  that  their  ingenuity  is  quickened,  and  resources 
supplied  by  extraordinary  means  and  inventions.  Salt  is 
an  article  of  the  first  necessity  in  Brazil,  and  the  patriot  army 
was  greatly  distressed  for  a supply,  to  preserve  their  provi- 
sions, as  well  as  of  ammunition  for  military  operations.  In 
this  emergency,  an  apothecary  of  the  town  supplied  their 
wants,  by  his  own  ingenuity.  He  collected  sugar  coppers, 
in  which  he  boiled  down,  and  evaporated,  the  sea  water  ; and 
he  procured  all  the  nitre  of  the  neighborhood,  and  applied 
himself,  with  success,  to  the  manufacture  of  gunpowder. 
All  the  engenhos,  or  sugar  houses,  were  searched,  and  a 
number  of  old  muskets  was  found,  which  were  repaired  and 
rendered  fit  for  use  ; and  the  Brazilians  commenced  a regu- 
lar siege  of  the  Portuguese.  They  were  shortly  joined  by  a 
reinforcement  from  Pernambuco,  and  a squadron  arrived 
from  Rio,  and  landed  an  abundant  supply  of  muskets,  field- 
pieces,  cartridges,  and  other  munitions  of  war.  They  now 
stretched  their  lines  across  the  whole  peninsula,  and  the  Por- 
tuguese, who  had  also  received  a large  reinforcement  of  men, 
were  cut  off  from  all  supplies,  except  by  sea,  for  their  sup- 
port. 

* A French  writer  notices  the  circumstance  in  the  following1  turgid 
words  : “ Ce  serment  repete  par  tous  ses  compagnons,  retentit  dans 
Timmensite  du  desert.  1 1 frappe  les  vastes  flancs  des  montagnes aurif- 
eres  ; il  va  plus  long  encore,  il  traverse  1’Atlantique,  reveille  les  echos 
duTage,  etfaitp&lir  surleurs  thrones,  les  monarquesduvieux  monde.” 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


127 


The  Portuguese  made  several  attempts  to  remove  these 
obstructions  and  dislodge  the  besiegers,  but  they  were  al- 
ways repulsed  by  the  natives,  who  displayed  many  extraor- 
dinary acts  of  enthusiastic  courage,  in  which  even  the  wo- 
men were  conspicuous.  One  girl,  the  daughter  of  a pea- 
sant, rendered  herself  as  famous  as  Bobelina  among  the 
Greeks,  or  the  Maid  of  Saragossa  among  the  Spaniards. — 
Her  name  was  Maria  de  Jesus,  and  she  had  come  to  the 
army  as  a substitute  conscript  for  her  brother  or  father. — 
She  served  as  a soldier  with  singular  intrepidity,  and  for  a 
long  time  without  the  smallest  suspicion  of  her  sex. 

While  things  remained  in  this  state  at  Bahia,  Horn  Pedro 
was  invited  by  the  council  he  had  assembled  to  call  together 
a general  legislative  and  constituent  assembly  of  deputies 
from  every  part  of  the  country,  to  deliberate  on  the  urgent 
necessities  of  Brazil,  and  provide  for  them.  This  meas- 
ure was  immediately  adopted,  and  from  that  moment  the 
countries  were  virtually  separated,  and  Brazil  an  indepen- 
dent nation. 

Prepared  now  to  profit  by  the  enthusiasm  his  declaration 
of  independence  had  excited,  and  having  been  in  fact  ac- 
knowledged emperor  of  an  independent  kingdom  by  the  pro- 
vinces, he  had  soon  this  tacit  assent  confirmed  by  an  impo- 
sing ceremony.  The  12t,h  of  October  was  the  anniversa- 
ry of  his  birth,  and  he  determined  to  make  that  day  also,  in 
1822,  the  festival  of  his  election.  The  citizens  and  sol- 
diers assembled  in  the  vast  square  of  the  Campo  de  St.  An- 
na, on  the  morning  of  that  day,  to  the  number,  it  is  suppo- 
sed, of  100,000  persons,  and  proclaimed  him  with  shouts, 
£<  The  Constitutional  Emperor,  with  the  unanimbus  accla- 
mation of  the  people.”  The  kingdom  changed  its  style 
and  title,  and  all  connexion  with  Portugal  was  rent  in  sun- 
der, and  from  that  day  abjured  by  the  people.  Similar 
spontaneous  acclamations  took  place  at  St.  Paul’s,  Minas 
Geraes,  St.  Catherine’s,  and  Rio  Grande,  and  other  provin- 
ces: To  commemorate  the  circumstance,  the  great  square 

of  St.  Anna  changed  its  name  to  that  of  the  Campo  d’Ac- 
clamacao,  and  has  so  been  called  ever  since. 

From  the  period  when  Dom  John  proceeded  to  Lisbon, 
his  son  had  kept  up  a constant  correspondence  with  him  on 
the  events  passing  in  the  country.  These  letters  were  sub- 
mitted by  his  father  to  the  cortes,  who  ordered  a certain 
number  of  copies  of  them  to  be  printed  for  the  use  of  the 
members.  I saw  these  letters  at  Bio  ; and  some  of  them 


128 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


exhibit  an  extraordinary  tissue  of  duplicity  ; and  if  one 
brother  in  Portugal  has  been  stigmatized  by  his  opponents 
as  a violater  of  his  solemn  pledges,  the  other  in  Brazil  has 
not  escaped  a similar  censure.  In  one  of  these  letters  he 
particularly  laments  the  growing  embarrassments  and  diffi- 
culties of  his  situation,  and  earnestly  solicits  his  recall. 

u I supplicated  your  Majesty,”  said  he,  u by  all  that  is 
sacred  in  the  world,  to  dispense  with  the  painful  functions 
you  have  assigned  me,  which  will  end  in  killing  me. — 
Frightful  pictures  surround  me  continually.  I have  them 
always  before  me.  I conjure  your  Majesty  to  permit  me 
as  soon  as  possible  to  go  and  kiss  your  royal  hand,  and  to 
sit  on  the  steps  of  your  throne.  I seek  only  to  procure  a 
happy  tranquillity.”*  He  was  in  consequence  recalled  ; 
a vessel  was  sent  to  convey  him,  and  he  would  not  go. 

Again  he  writes — “ They  wish,  and  they  say  they  wish, 
to  proclaim  me  emperor.  I protest  to  your  Majesty  I will 
never  be  perjured  ; that  I never  will  be  false  to  you  ; and 
that  if  they  ever  commit  that  folly,  it  shall  not  be  till  after 
they  have  cut  me  to  pieces — me  and  all  the  Portuguese  ; a 
solemn  oath  which  I here  have  written  with  my  blood , in  the 
following  words  : I swear  to  be  always  faithful  to  your  Maj- 
esty, to  the  Portuguese  nation  and  constitution.”')'  In 
conformity  with  this  solemn  declaration  written  in  his  blood, 
he  threatens  to  fire  on  his  faithful  Portuguese,  if  they  do 
not  instantly  return  home  ; and  shortly  after  he  is  the  first 
to  propose  a separate  legislation  for  Brazil,  to  have  the  coun- 
try proclaimed  independent,  and  himself  acknowledged  its 
sovereign. 

It  was  now  resolved  to  prosecute  the  war  against  Bahia 
with  the  utmost  vigor,  for  they  considered  that  their  inde- 
pendence was  precarious,  as  long  as  a Portuguese  soldier 
remained  in  the  country.  To  this  end  a naval  armament 
was  indispensable,  as  the  Portuguese,  though  confined  on 
the  land  side,  were  masters  of  the  sea,  and  had  all  the  re- 
sources which  could  be  supplied  in  that  way  open  to  them. 

* Letter  IK.  Sept.  21,  1821. 

t The  following  is  the  original  of  this  strong  document  : — “ Queriao 
me,  e dizem  que  me  querem,  acclarnar  Lnperador  ; protesto  a vossa 
Magest.  que  nunca  serei  perjuro,  que  nunca  lhe  serei  falso,  e que 
elles  farao  esa  loucura,  mas  sera  depois  de  eu,  e todos  os  Portugueses, 
estarem  feitos  em  postas.  He  o que  juro  a voss,  Magest.  escrevendo 
nesta  c m amea  sangue  estas  seguintes  palavras,  juro  sempre  serfiel  a 
voss.  Magest.  d Nacao  e a constiiuicdo  Portuguesa.” — Letter  1Y.  Oct. 
4,  1821. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


129 


Every  exertion  therefore  was  made  to  refit  the  ships  lying 
in  dock,  left  behind  by  Dom  John.  The  arsenal  was  daily 
visited  by  the  emperor,  liberal  voluntary  subscriptions  were 
made  to  complete  them,  and  agents  were  sent  out  to  search 
for  and  engage  officers  and  men,  either  on  the  spot,  or  such 
as  could  be  induced  to  enter  the  service  from  other  coun- 
tries, to  man  and  command  them.  Some  arrived  from 
North  America,  some  from  Buenos  Ayres  ; but  the  man 
on  whom  the  Brazilians  placed  most  reliance  was  Lord 
Cochrane,  who,  having  achieved  the  independence  of  a con- 
siderable part  of  Spanish  America,  was  now  looked  up  to 
as  the  person  most  capable  of  rendering  the  same  service 
to  Brazil  also.  He  was  then  in  Chili  ; and  an  invitation 
being  sent  to  him,  he  arrived  at  Rio  on  13th  March,  1823, 
to  take  the  command  of  the  new  Brazilian  fleet.  It  consist- 
ed of  one  ship  of  eighty  guns,  formerly  the  Dom  Joao  VI. 
but  now  named  the  Pedro  Primeiro,  in  honor  of  the  emper- 
or, with  ten  others  of  lesser  force,  and  four  armed  merchant- 
men, making  in  all  fifteen  ships,  commanded  by  captains  of 
different  nations,  and  manned  by  motley  crews,  the  greater 
number  of  whom  were  anything  but  sailors.  On  the  1st  of 
April  the  squadron  weighed  and  sailed  from  Rio. 

The  Portuguese  garrison  had  been  considerably  rein- 
forced, and  now  consisted  of  fourteen  or  fifteen  effective 
battalions  in  the  town,  and  a fleet  in  the  harbor,  far  superior 
to  that  which  Lord  Cochrane  brought  with  him.  His  entire 
force  was  seven  ships,  mounting  250  guns  ; while  that  of 
the  Portuguese  was  thirteen,  carrying  398  guns.  As  soon 
as  it  was  known  that  he  had  arrived,  the  whole  Portuguese 
fleet  hauled  out,  and  spread  themselves  along  the  shores  of 
the  Bay  ; and  Lord  Cochrane,  with  his  accustomed  decision, 
boldly  determined  to  attack  them,  though  some  of  his  squa- 
dron had  not  yet  arrived.  He  instantly  separated  them,  but 
he  effected  nothing  ; his  ships  sailed,  and  were  worked  so 
badly,  that  he  could  not  avail  himself  of  their  assistance. 
A considerable  part  of  the  crews  were  Portuguese,  and 
could  not  be  relied  on  ; and  it  i3  said,  that  two  marines  of 
that  nation  stood  in  the  magazine  passage  of  the  admiral’s 
ship,  with  drawn  swords  in  their  hands,  and  so  endeavored 
to  prevent  the  powder  from  being  served  during  the  engage- 
ment. It  was  determined  to  renew  the  attack  next  day,  but 
the  enemy  had  withdrawn,  and  taken  refuge  under  their  own 
guns  on  shore  ; and  here  they  suffered  themselves  to  be 
blockaded  by  a squadron  far  inferior  to  themselves,  and  so 


130 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


were  penned  in,  both  by  land  and  sea,  where  they  soon  be- 
came a prey  to  famine  and  disorganization. 

The  blockade  was  now  so  vigorously  maintained,  that 
they  were  compelled  to  dismiss  all  the  useless  mouths  from 
the  town,  and  three  days  were  allowed  the  inhabitants  to 
prepare  for  their  departure.  They  were  then,  to  the  num- 
ber of  16,000  persons,  driven  from  the  place  towards  the 
enemy’s  lines,  like  the  citizens  of  Derry,  during  the  memo- 
rable siege  of  that  city.  It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  rainy 
season,  and  the  unfortunate  fugitives,  particularly  delicate 
females,  suffered  the  extremity  of  misery,  from  their  unpro- 
vided state  in  the  most  inclement  weather. 

Lord  Cochrane  now  put  in  practice  one  of  those  acts  of 
intrepidity  and  enterprise,  which  distinguish  him.  He  de- 
termined to  burn  and  destroy  the  Portuguese  fleet  as  they 
lay  in  the  harbor.  The  commander  of  the  English  squadron 
then  in  the  bay,  knowing  well  the  temper  and  determination 
of  his  lordship,  advised  the  Portuguese  admiral  to  be  on  his 
guard  ; and  he  himself,  as  a precautionary  measure  against 
the  accident  of  fire-ships,  drew  off  several  miles  from  his 
squadron.  The  admiral  disregarded  the  caution  ; and  one 
night  at  ten  o’clock,  while  he  was  on  shore  dining  with  the 
general,  he  was  alarmed  by  a shot  from  the  bay,  and,  on 
inquiry,  found  that  his  fleet  was  actually  attacked  where 
they  lay.  Lord  Cochrane,  availing  himself  of  the  darkness, 
hove  his  ship  into  the  midst  of  the  enemy,  and  alongside  of 
the  admiral.  When  he  was  preparing  to  board,  the  breeze 
that  brought  him  suddenly  failed,  and  he  found  himself  alone 
in  the  midst  of  the  hostile  fleet,  and  under  the  guns  of  their 
batteries.  In  this  emergency  he  had  no  alternative,  but  to 
escape  if  he  could.  He  was  aware  that  the  concussion  of 
the  air  from  the  discharge  of  a single  gun,  might  lull  the 
slight  breeze,  which  yet  remained,  into  a dead  calm  ; so  he 
hastily  availed  himself  of  what  had  not  died  away,  and  stood 
again  out  of  the  harbor. 

The  Brazilians  meantime,  impatient  of  delay,  were  de- 
termined to  make  an  attack  on  the  town  on  their  side.  To 
this  end  they  formed  on  the  skirts  of  the  wood,  where  they 
were  encamped,  and  advanced  to  the  assault  in  three  col- 
umns, with  great  appearance  of  resolution.  They  were, 
however,  received  with  a tremendous  shower  of  grape  ; and 
the  garrison  having  made  a sortie,  rushed  on  them  with  fix- 
ed bayonets  before  they  could  recover  from  their  confusion. 
They  were  repulsed  with  great  loss  ; but  the  general  was 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


131 


unable  to  derive  any  advantage  from  it.  Meantime,  Lord 
Cochrane  was  preparing  for  a second  attack,  but  an  acci- 
dent happened  to  his  ship,  which  was  well  nigh  proving  fa- 
tal to  himself  and  all  on  board.  A cask  of  spirits  took  fire, 
probably  applied  by  some  of  the  disaffected  on  board,  and 
communicated  to  the  timbers  of  the  ship.  In  the  alarm, 
half  of  the  crew  leaped  overboard,  and  a great  many  were 
drowned  before  they  could  be  picked  up  again  ; but  the  fire 
was  happily  extinguished  before  it  communicated  to  the 
powder  magazine. 

It  is  supposed  that  apprehension  of  the  total  destruction 
of  his  fleet,  by  some  bold  and  desperate  effort  of  Lord 
Cochrane,  as  well  as  the  want  of  provision,  determined 
Madeira  at  length  to  abandon  a place  he  found  no  longer 
tenable.  All  his  stores,  and  valuables  in  plate  and  money, 
were  embarked  in  thirtytwo  sail  of  transports  ; and  with 
these,  and  thirteen  ships-of-war,  with  several  others,  to  the 
number  of  seventy  in  all,  he  sailed  out  of  the  harbor  of  Ba- 
hia on  the  3d  of  July,  1823  ; and  immediately  the  Brazilians 
entered  the  city  on  the  land  side,  and  took  quiet  possession 
of  it,  without  committing  a single  excess. 

The  Portuguese  were  pursued  by  Lord  Cochrane,  and 
part  of  his  squadron,  with  the  most  unrelenting  rigor  across 
the  Equator  ; when  having  taken  more  than  one  half  of  their 
transports,  and  so  dispersed  the  rest,  that  only  thirteen  sail 
of  them  continued  together,  he  returned  to  Brazil,  to  dis- 
possess the  few  foreign  troops  that  remained  in  Maranhao 
and  Para.  He  arrived  at  the  former  place,  July  26,  1823  ; 
a provisional  government  was  established  in  the  name  of  the 
emperor,  and  the  Portuguese  troops,  to  the  number  of  about 
300  men,  were  embarked.  Similar  proceedings  took  place 
at  Para,  and  the  last  of  the  Portuguese  left  the  shore  of 
Brazil  forever. 

All  these  events  occurred  with  comparatively  little  loss 
of  life,  or  extreme  suffering  to  any  party,  except  at  Para. 
Here  the  adherents  of  the  emperor,  thinking  they  were  en- 
titled to  the  plunder  of  the  town,  as  a reward  for  their  ser- 
vices, rose  in  a state  of  insurrection  for  the  purpose.  They 
were,  however,  suppressed  : some  were  shot,  and  others 
confined  on  board  a prison-ship  ; of  these  latter  more  than 
250  were  found  dead  next  morning  in  the  hold,  with  fright- 
ful marks  of  destruction.  In  their  rage  and  despair  some 
had  strangled  themselves,  some  their  neighbors,  but  the 
greater  number  had  died  by  suffocation  : four  only  sur- 
vived. 


132 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


While  these  events  were  passing  in  the  north,  every- 
thing at  Rio  was  maturing  to  the  final  and  permanent  es- 
tablishment of  the  transatlantic  empire.  The  brothers,  An- 
drada,  who  had  taken  such  a distinguished  part  in  affairs, 
and  were  so  high  in  the  confidence  of  the  emperor,  had, 
from  some  misunderstanding,  resigned  the  offices  they  held, 
and  the  people  regarded  it  as  a public  calamity.  One  of 
them  lived  at  Catete,  near  the  Gloria,  and  the  emperor  was 
determined  to  go  in  person,  and  request  him  to  resume  his 
ministry,  when  a curious  scene  occurred.  The  people,  ap- 
prised of  his  purpose  to  visit  him,  anticipated  his  intention, 
and  proceeded  there  before  him.  When  he  approached  the 
house,  he  saw  a large  concourse  of  persons  coming  towards 
him,  shouting  vivas,  and  conducting  his  minister  to  meet  him 
He  sprung  from  his  carriage,  hung  upon  his  neck,  and  per- 
suaded him  again  to  resume  his  situation  ; and  this  was 
publicly  announced  the  same  night  at  the  theatre.  These 
scenes,  whether  felt  or  feigned,  had  a powerful  effect  on  the 
multitude. 


CHAP.  XI. 

Coronation  of  Dom  Pedro. — Picture  at  the  Academy  — Meeting  of  the  Constituent 
Assembly. — First  enlightened  Proceedings. — Spirit  of  Democracy  begins  to  appear. 
— Dissolution  by  military  Force. — The  Andradas  and  other  Members  seized  and 
exiled. — Anecdotes  of  the  Andradas. — Emperor  promises  another  Constitution. — 
Accepted  by  the  People. — Burning  of  the  Theatre. — Independence  of  Brazil  ac- 
knowledged by  Dom  John. — Congress  of  Panama. — Magnificent  but  impracticable 
Conception. — Cause  of  the  War  with  Buenos  Ayres. — Monte  Video  seized  by 
Portuguese. — Absurd  Adulation  of  the  Cabildo. — Petty  Warfare. — Fleet  in  the  Rio 
de  Plata. — Weak  Pretensions  to  blockade. — Evil  Consequences  of  the  War. — En> 
peror  embarks  for  St.  Catharine’s. 

The  1st  of  December  was  the  day  appointed  for  his  coro- 
nation. Dom  Pedro,  like  Napoleon,  had  attached  a certain 
prestige  to  particular  days  ; and  as  his  acclamation  was  made 
on  that  of  his  birth  as  a political  new  birth,  so  this  of  his 
coronation  was  the  anniversary  of  the  deliverance  of  Portu- 
gal from  the  Spanish  yoke,  as  it  was  intended  to  commemo- 
rate that  of  Brazil  from  the  yoke  of  Portugal.  It  was  in  the 
midst  of  the  wet  season  of  the  country,  and  it  rained  in  tor- 
rents the  whole  day  ; but  this  did  not  extinguish  the  ardor 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


133 


of  the  spectators,  who  assembled  in  the  same  multitudes  as 
on  former  similar  occasions  ; and  triumphal  arches,  and 
other  displays,  were  erected  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  The 
ceremony  was  performed  in  the  chapel  attached  to  the  pal- 
ace, which  was  used  as  a cathedral,  and  the  evening  con- 
cluded, as  usual,  with  a grand  opera,  which  exhibited  a 
most  splendid  scene.  The  ladies  glittering  with  the  dia- 
monds of  the  country;  the  military  in  gorgeous  uniforms, 
covered  with  stars  of  different  orders  ; and  the  superb 
display  of  the  emperor’s  box,  filled  with  his  suite, — all  con- 
spired to  add  to  the  impressive  effect  ; while  crowns  and 
wreaths  of  laurel  were  showered  down  from  all  parts  of 
the  theatre,  and  sundry  ladies  of  rank  and  respectability 
spontaneously  came  forward  on  the  stage,  like  so  many 
Corinnes,  and  sung  national  hymns  and  patriotic  airs,  in 
which  they  were  joined  by  the  whole  house. 

A new  academy  was  founded  shortly  after,  and  this  coro- 
nation was  taken  as  a subject  to  exercise  the  pencil  of  the 
students.  A large  and  striking  picture  was  executed,  rep- 
resenting the  ceremony,  where  all  the  figures  were  portraits, 
and  nearly  as  large  as  life,  and  it  was  intended  that  this 
should  be  preserved  as  the  first  specimen  of  the  arts  exe- 
cuted in  the  country.  I saw  it  afterwards  in  the  hall  of  the 
academy,  a sad  specimen  of  the  mutability  of  popular  feel- 
ing ; some  disaffected  person  had  cut  the  cords  by  which  it 
was  suspended  ; it  fell  to  the  ground,  and  was  burst  into 
fragments  by  its  own  weight,  and  it  remained  there,  an  object 
of  scoff  and  ridicule  to  the  fickle  citizen. 

At  this  time  the  people  of  Brazil  were  greatly  alarmed 
and  afflicted  at  an  accident  that  threatened  the  life  of  their 
popular  emperor.  While  riding  one  day  with  his  usual  im- 
petuosity, his  naked  sword  was  forced  from  his  hand  against 
his  leg,  so  as  nearly  to  lame  him  ; and  while  yet  laboring 
under  the  effects  of  this  accident,  he  fell  from  his  horse  with 
violence,  and  broke  two  of  his  ribs.  These  injuries  con- 
fined him  to  his  bed,  and  obliged  him  to  absent  himself  for 
some  time  from  public  affairs.  In  the  mean  time,  disputes 
arose  among  his  ministers,  and  his  friends  and  counsellors, 
the  Andradas,  retired  again  from  office. 

Preparations  had  been  for  some  time  making  to  regulate 
the  manner  of  electing  deputies  to  form  the  first  constituent 
and  legislative  assembly  of  Brazil,  and  sundry  alvaras  and 
ordinances  had  been  issued  for  the  purpose.  In  April, 
1823,  a number  of  the  members  had  arrived  in  the  capital, 


134 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


and  on  the  17th  of  the  same  month  they  assembled,  to  the 
amount  of  fiftytwo,  in  the  hall  appointed  for  the  purpose, 
and  elected  Dom  Jose  Caetano,  the  bishop  and  grand  chap- 
lain, their  first  president.  After  some  preliminary  regula- 
tions, they  all  took  an  oath  to  the  purport  that  u they  would 
faithfully  execute  the  trust  reposed  in  them  in  framing  a po- 
litical constitution  for  Brazil,  and  making  indispensable  re- 
forms, and  that  they  would  maintain  the  Catholic  religion 
and  the  dynasty  of  Dom  Pedro,  their  first  emperor,  and  his 
issue. ” When  these  forms  were  gone  through,  and  the  as- 
sembly regularly  constituted,  they  invited  the  emperor  to 
be  present  at  their  first  session,  and  he  appointed  the  3d  of 
May  for  the  purpose.  This  particular  day  was  fixed  on  be- 
cause it  was  connected  with  another  important  event  in  the 
annals  of  the  country  : it  was  the  day  on  which  Cabral  dis- 
covered it,  and  this  new  era  in  politics  was  like  a second 
discovery  of  its  means  of  prosperity,  and  the  second  great 
epocha  in  its  history. 

At  an  early  hour  the  city  was  on  the  alert,  and  the  streets 
were  strewed  with  flowers  and  odoriferous  herbs,  the  whole 
of  the  way  through  which  he  intended  to  pass.  This  prac- 
tice is  very  common  with  the  Brazilians,  and  on  all  occa- 
sions of  any  procession  I have  seen  it  done  more  or  less. 
A throne  was  prepared  in  the  assembly  for  the  emperor, 
and  a box  for  the  empress  and  her  family  on  his  right  hand. 
The  president’s  chair  was  on  the  first  step  of  the  throne, 
and  before  him  a table,  on  which  lay  the  gospels.  The 
emperor  was  met  by  a deputation  of  the  members,  who  con- 
ducted him  to  his  throne,  where  he  laid  aside  his  crown  and 
sceptre,  and  addressed  the  assembly  in  a long  and  eloquent 
speech,  enumerating  all  the  political  events  which  had  taken 
place  in  the  country,  and  the  measures  adopted  to  amelio- 
rate and  improve  its  condition,  and  pointed  out  the  line  they 
were  to  pursue  in  framing  a new  constitution,  in  which  they 
should  well  define  the  limits  of  the  three  powers  composing 
the  state,  and  oppose  insuperable  barriers  to  despotism, 
whether  royal,  aristocratic,  or  democratic.  The  emperor 
was  loudly  cheered  by  the  assembly  and  the  spectators  in 
the  gallery,  and  conducted  with  enthusiastic  plaudits  back 
to  his  palace. 

The  assembly,  thus  constituted  under  such  favorable  aus- 
pices, were  naturally  looked  up  to  as  those  who  had  the 
future  happiness  and  prosperity  of  Brazil  in  their  hands,  and 
their  discussions  and  decisions  seemed  at  first  to  realize  all 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


135 


that  had  been  expected  from  them.  They  decided  on  the 
great  questions  of  personal  and  religious  freedom,  trial  by 
jury,  liberty  of  the  press,  and  inviolability  of  property,  and 
defined  and  established  wise  and  judicious  limits  for  them 
all.  The  abolition  of  religious  distinction  was  also  a fair 
feature  in  their  proceedings.  It  was  certainly  a proud  tri- 
umph in  this  Catholic  land,  hitherto  shut  out  from  all  inter- 
course with  other  nations,  and  supposed  to  entertain  the 
most  intolerant  prejudices  against  heretics  that  ignorance 
and  bigotry  could  engender,  that  all  strangers  naturalized 
in  the  country  should  be  now  entitled  to  equal  protection 
from  the  laws,  whatever  was  their  religion,  and  all  Chris- 
tians be  eligible  to  all  offices  and  employments.* 

Another  object  which  engaged  their  attention  was,  the 
state  of  slavery,  which  it  would  have  taken  into  its  consid- 
eration. This  is  perhaps  the  subject  of  all  others  in  which 
the  interests  and  prejudices  of  all  classes  are  most  deeply 
involved  ; and  the  immense  property  vested  in  slaves,  and 
their  almost  exclusive  employment  in  every  branch  of  pro- 
duct or  traffic,  had  so  interwoven  the  system  with  everything 
in  the  country,  that  it  seemed  as  if  touching  this  foundation 
would  pull  down  the  whole  fabric  of  Brazilian  industry  and 
prosperity.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  feelings  of  natural 
right  had  become  now  so  generally  recognized,  that  it  was’ 
one  of  the  subjects  which  would  have  engaged  the  greatest 
share  of  the  attention  of  the  deputies,  had  they  been  suffered 
to  discuss  it. 

The  Andradas,  though  no  longer  ministers,  had  seats  in 
this  assembly,  and  were  among  its  most  influential  members. 
They  were  men  of  ardent  and  daring  minds  ; and  while  in- 
vestigating the  state  of  the  country,  and  pointing  out  abuses 
which  required  reform,  many  questions  arose,  particu- 
larly on  the  subject  of  the  veto,  which  caused  much  heat 
and  excitement,  and  called  forth  violent  republican  opinions. 
The  emperor  himself  adverted  to  this  in  his  proclamation  of 
the  8th  of  August  : — u Some  of  the  municipalities,”  said  he, 
u have  given  instructions  to  their  deputies,  in  which  democ- 
racy predominates  ; but  democracy,  in  Brazil,  in  this  vast 
empire,  is  an  absurdity.  The  times  we  live  in  abound  in 
sad  monitions  : let  us  look  to  the  fate  of  others,  as  beacons 
to  warn  ourselves  where  to  avoid  the  danger.” 

* By  the  constitution  subsequently  formed,  those  who  are  not  of 
the  religion  of  the  state  may  vote  at  elections,  but  cannot  be  returned 
as  deputies. 


136 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  people  without  were  equally  violent ; and  every 
apothecary’s  and  barber’s  shop,  the  usual  places  for  discus- 
sing political  questions  in  Rio,  became  a debating  society. 
A letter  appeared  in  a newspaper  called  the  Sentinella,  in 
which  were  very  severe  strictures  on  the  officers  of  the 
horse  artillery.  Two  of  them  attacked  a young  man  of  the 
name  of  Pamplona,  an  apothecary,  whom  they  supposed 
was  the  author,  and  violently  assaulted  him  in  his  own  shop. 
This  incident  was  magnified  as  a military  outrage  on  the 
liberty  of  the  subject,  and  the  chamber  took  it  up.  The 
people  of  the  galleries  were  permitted  to  take  their  seats  on 
the  benches  below,  and  the  deputies  were  so  heated  with  the 
subject,  that  the  most  violent  speeches  were  made,  and  the 
most  extreme  measures  talked  of ; they  first  proposed  a res- 
olution, that  the  European  military  should  move  six  leagues 
from  Rio. 

The  emperor  was  at  S.  Christovao  when  he  heard  of  it, 
and  immediately,  without  convening  a council,  or  consult- 
ing any  person,  took  with  him  the  third  regiment  of  infantry, 
and  some  cavalry  quartered  near  the  palace,  and  proceeded 
at  once  to  the  hall.  He  surrounded  the  building  with  the 
military,  and  then  sent  General  Moraes  into  the  house,  to  dis- 
solve the  assembly.  I have  heard  from  those  who  were  pres- 
ent, that  the  scene  was  singularly  awful.  When  the  thing 
was  rumored  in  the  house,  the  debate  was  suspended,  and 
a dead  silence  for  a moment  prevailed.  This  was  broken  by 
the  tramp  of  an  armed  man  ascending  the  stairs,  with  his 
gingling  accoutrements  : he  stood  at  the  door  of  the  hall, 
and  then  presented  a paper  ordering  the  deputies  to  dis- 
perse. The  president  did  not  lose  for  a moment  his  self- 
possession.  He  rose  with  dignity,  and  denounced  any  per- 
son who  would  violate  the  sanctity  of  the  national  represen- 
tation, as  a traitor  to  his  country,  and  commanded  the  mil- 
itary man  to  retire  from  the  hallowed  precincts  of  the  legis- 
lative assembly.  The  general  replied  by  pointing  to  the 
square  below  ; and  when  the  president  looked  out,  he  saw 
it  filled  with  armed  men,  and  cannon  planted  against  the 
building  ; u To  you,  gentlemen,”  said  he,  with  the  great- 
est coolness,  u I must  yield,  and  not  to  any  other  argu- 
ment.” The  atrocious  massacre  of  the  Alfandega  was  yet 
recent  in  the  memory  of  them  all,  and  they  justly  apprehend- 
ed the  repetition  of  a similar  scene.  The  deputies,  there- 
fore, yielding  to  force,  but  making  no  opposition,  quitted 
the  hall.  As  the  late  minister,  Andrada,  with  his  brothers, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


137 


and  three  or  four  more,  descended  the  stairs,  they  were  ar- 
rested, put  on  board  a vessel  ready  in  the  harbor,  which  im- 
mediately sailed,  and  they  were  landed  on  the  coast  of 
France. 

Of  all  the  men  who  distinguished  themselves  in  the  ear- 
ly events  of  the  Brazilian  revolution,  none  have  attracted  so 
much  public  notice  as  the  brothers  Andrada  ; and  I collect- 
ed the  following  particulars  of  them,  from  persons  who  were 
well  acquainted  with  them.  The  family  is  one  of  the  most 
respectable  in  Brazil.  It  appears,  by  an  inscription  in  the 
aqueduct  of  the  Carioca,  that  it  was  executed  under  the  di- 
rection of  one  of  the  family  of  Andrada,  so  that  the  name  is 
endeared  to  the  country  by  the  most  magnificent  monu- 
ment of  public  utility  which  it  possesses. 

The  present  family  resides  at  St.  Paul’s,  and  consists  of 
three  persons — Joze  Bonafacio,  Martini  Francisco,  and 
Carlos  Rebeiro.  The  first  had  been  sent  from  Brazil  to 
Portugal,  when  young,  to  be  educated  at  the  university  of 
Coimbra,  where  he  was,  I believe,  a professor,  and  was  lying 
dangerously  ill  when  the  king  departed  from  Lisbon,  and  so 
could  not  accompany  him.  When  the  French  entered  Por- 
tugal, he  headed  the  students  of  the  college,  in  a rising  which 
took  place  to  oppose  them  ; and  afterwards  served  in  the 
army,  where  he  obtained  the  rank  of  colonel.  He  then 
travelled  through  Europe,  and  made  the  acquaintance  of 
some  of  the  most  eminent  literary  characters  of  the  day. — - 
In  Sweden,  he  devoted  himself  to  the  study  of  mineralogy, 
and  collected  a valuable  assortment  of  rare  specimens,  to 
qualify  him  for  the  pursuit  ; and  he  returned  to  his  native 
country,  with  a mind  stored  with  the  lights  and  information 
which  he  had  everywhere  procured.  But  the  subject  to 
which  he  directed  his  attention  in  particular  was  agricul- 
ture, which  he  deemed  of  most  importance  to  the  rich,  but 
uncultivated  soil  of  Brazil  ; and  he  was  engaged  in  the  pur- 
suit on  his  paternal  patrimony,  when  called  into  public  life 
by  his  fellow-citizens. 

His  last  effort  in  the  constituent  assembly  was  on  the  sub- 
ject of  slavery  ; he  drew  up  an  address,  in  which  he  makes 
an  energetic  appeal  to  them  to  abolish  gradually  a state  in 
which,  contrary  to  the  laws  of  God  and  man,  a person  is 
made  a thing,  and  property  claimed  in  that  in  which  another 
can  have  no  property  ; and  he  clearly  proves,  that  the  cul- 
tivating the  soil  by  slaves  is  the  bane  of  the  prosperity  of 
Brazil.  Before  he  could  pronounce  this  address,  the  as- 


138 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


sembly  was  dissolved,  and  he  was  arrested  and  exiled.  It 
was  not,  however,  lost  ; for  the  manuscript  was  left  with  a 
friend  in  Brazil,  who  published  it  when  he  was  gone.  His 
lady’s  name  was  O’Leary,  the  daughter  of  Irish  parents, 
having  much  of  the  cordiality  of  manner  which  is  generally 
supposed  to  distinguish  people  of  her  country  : when  retired 
from  public  life,  he  enjoyed  great  happiness  in  her  society, 
and  in  that  of  their  children,  to  whom  he  is  fondly  attached  ; 
among  those  and  his  books,  of  which  he  has  a large  collec- 
tion, in  all  languages,  he  receives  with  great  kindness  all 
strangers  who  visit  them.  He  is,  therefore,  not  only  an  en- 
lightened, but  a good  moral  man,  and  capable  of  improving 
his  countrymen,  not  more  by  his  knowledge,  than  by  his  ex- 
ample. 

Martim  Francisco  is  a man  held  in  equal  estimation  with 
his  brother  for  intelligence  and  moral  worth.  As  minister 
at  the  head  of  the  treasury,  it  is  admitted  by  all  that  he  con- 
ducted himself  with  the  most  unimpeachable  integrity,  and 
retired  from  that  situation  with  the  respect  and  regret  of  the 
public.  But  people  speak  of  Carlos  Ribeiro  in  a different 
manner. 

As  a public  man,  he  was  distinguished  by  his  violence. 
In  1817,  he  was  supposed  to  be  a principal  promoter  of  the 
disturbances  of  Pernambuco,  and  was  placed  by  the  gov- 
ernor on  an  ass,  with  his  face  to  the  tail,  and  so  led  through 
the  town.  When  afterwards  charged  with  his  turbulence, 
he  boldly  said,  in  the  presence  of  the  monarch,  and  in  the 
hearing  of  a friend  who  told  me  the  story,  that  he  did  not, 
nor  would  not,  ever  repent  of  this  revolutionary  attempt. 

The  brothers  established  at  Rio  a most  violent  paper, 
called  the  Tamoyo , adopting  this  name  from  a tribe  of  In- 
dians who  had  inhabited  the  country  round  Rio,  and  were 
noted  for  their  hostility  to  the  Portuguese.  It  was  in  this 
the  emperor  was  warned  to  remember,  and  dread  the  fate  of 
other  monarchs  ; that  Pedro  I.  of  Brazil  should  never  for- 
get Charles  I.  of  England.  When  it  was  determined  to  dis- 
solve the  constituent  assembly,  one  of  them  declared,  like 
Mirabeau,  that  nothing  but  force  should  separate  them,  and 
they  were  the  last  who  retired.  After  remaining  in  France 
for  five  years  in  exile,  they  determined  to  return  to  their 
own  country,  and  applied  for  passports  for  that  purpose. 
The  Brazilian  charge  d’affaires,  it  is  said,  opposed  their 
wishes  ; but  they  applied  to  M.  Feronays  in  person,  and  he 
immediately  procured  for  them  a safe  and  speedy  passage 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


139 


through  the  territories  of  France.  Martim  Francisco  and 
Ribeiro  embarked  on  board  the  Vaillant,  at  Bordeaux,  and 
arrived  in  Brazil  in  June,  1828.  On  landing,  they  were 
detained  in  custody  in  the  fortress  of  the  Ilha  das  Cobras, 
and  from  hence  they  sent  a petition  to  the  chamber  of  depu- 
ties, then  sitting,  that  they  should  be  tried,  and  judged  pub- 
licly; one  of  them  insisting  on  it  as  a right,  that,  as  a doc- 
tor of  laws,  he  should  be  allowed  to  defend  himself.  a If 
the  chambers,”  said  he  in  his  petition,  “ suffer  that  an  at- 
tack be  made  on  the  rights  of  the  constitution,  by  destroy- 
ing the  inviolability  of  its  members,  for  their  sentiments  de- 
livered in  debate,  they  will  vote  their  own  condemnation  in 
surrendering  their  best  rights  and  privileges.”  He  forgot 
that  this  inviolability  was  only  subsequently  guaranteed  by 
the  constitution,  but  was  not  in  existence  at  the  time  of  the 
constituent  assembly.  After  a protracted  process,  during 
which  these  restless  men  had  various  encounters  with  the 
different  newspapers,  particularly  with  the  Astro  de  Minas, 
they  were  discharged  of  all  offence,  and  on  the  13th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1828,  had  an  audience  of  reconciliation  with  the 
emperor.  After  this  they  withdrew  to  St.  Paul’s,  where 
they  proposed  to  live  a retired  life,  devoted  to  agriculture  ; 
but  it  was  supposed  that  one  of  them,  at  least,  would  be  re- 
turned a deputy  for  the  province  at  the  next  election. 

When  the  emperor  dissolved  the  constituent  assembly, 
he  immediately  declared  he  would  call  another,  and  submit 
to  it  a form  of  government  more  liberal  than  the  one  in- 
tended to  be  framed.  He  redeemed  his  pledge,  and  in 
December  following  he  himself  drew  up  a constitution  to 
be  submitted  to  a general  national  assembly.  Before  the 
assembly  met,  it  was  officially  published,  and  the  citizens 
of  all  the  towns  were  called  on  to  examine  and  express  their 
opinion  of  it.  Books  were  opened  in  every  place,  and  all 
persons  were  invited  to  inscribe  their  assent  or  disapproba- 
tion. The  books  filled  with  these  signatures  were  sent  to 
Rio,  and  when  examined  it  was  found  that  the  assent  was 
nearly  unanimous.  This  was  considered  a sufficient  indi- 
cation of  public  opinion,  and  the  constitution  was  promulga- 
ted as  that  of  the  future  government  of  the  country,  without 
undergoing  the  discussion  of  any  assembly. 

It  was  on  the  occasion  of  taking  the  oath  to  this  consti- 
tution that  a suspicious  event  occurred,  which  gave  rise  to 
various  conjectures  not  yet  satisfied.  It  was  to  be  cele- 
brated, as  usual,  at  the  theatre,  on  the  25th  of  March,  1824  ; 


140 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


but  just  as  the  emperor  had  left  his  palace  for  that  purpose, 
a fire  burst  out  in  the  theatre,  and  by  the  time  he  arrived 
it  was  all  in  a flame.  Fires  are  of  rare  occurrence  in  Brazil, 
particularly  at  Rio.  The  walls  are  generally  of  granite, 
and  the  floors  of  jacaranda  or  other  hard  wood,  which  resists 
fire  like  stone.  When  this  large  edifice  therefore  was  burnt 
down  so  unexpectedly,  and  on  such  a remarkable  day,  it 
was  generally  attributed  to  design,  and  as  a means  of  re- 
tarding or  preventing  the  emperor’s  ratification  of  the  con- 
stitution by  his  oath.  The  theatre  was  reduced  to  ashes  ; 
but  the  oath  was  taken  the  next  day  in  the  following  words  : — 
u I swear  to  maintain  the  Catholic  Apostolic  and  Roman 
religion,  and  the  integrity  and  indivisibility  of  the  empire  ; 
to  observe  and  cause  to  be  observed  as  the  political  consti- 
tution of  the  Brazilian  nation,  the  present  project  of  the 
constitution  which  is  here  presented,  and  which  the  same  na- 
tion accepted  and  requested  should  be  now  sworn  to,  as  the 
constitution  of  the  empire.  I swear  to  observe,  and  to 
cause  others  to  observe,  all  the  laws  of  the  empire,  and  to 
watch  over  the  general  good  of  Brazil,  as  far  as  in  me  lies.” 

On  the  6th  of  May,  1825,  the  first  legislative  assembly 
met  under  the  constitutional  act.  It  consisted  of  102  dep- 
uties from  the  different  provinces,  elected  for  three  years, 
and  half  that  number  of  senators  elected  for  life.  They  had 
little  to  deliberate  on,  as  all  the  articles  had  been  already 
adopted.  The  only  important  act,  was  the  unanimous  one 
of  both  chambers,  recognizing  the  eldest  son  of  the  emperor 
as  successor  to  the  throne.  He  had  been  born  in  October, 
1825,  and  the  constitution  required  that  this  should  be  done 
on  the  first  session  after  the  birth  of  an  heir  apparent.  The 
assemblies  were  prorogued  on  the  6th  of  September. 

One  thing  was  now  only  wanting  to  give  stability  to  the 
new  empire,  and  that  was  to  have  all  claims  on  it  by  any 
other  nation  renounced,  and  its  separate  and  independent 
existence  acknowledged  by  other  powers,  particularly  its 
former  masters  the  Portuguese.  This  last  great  act  was 
effected  in  August,  1825.  The  emperor  concluded  a treaty 
with  his  father,  by  which  the  entire  independence  of  Brazil 
on  Portugal  was  acknowledged,  Dom  John  recognized  as 
its  emperor,  with  succession  to  Dom  Pedro,  and  a sum  of 
two  millions  sterling  paid  by  Brazil,  as  a remuneration  for 
this  acknowledgment. 

This  circumstance  seems  more  than  any  other  to  have 
established  the  tranquillity  of  the  country,  and  consolidated 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


141 


the  existing  order  of  things.  Pernambuco  and  Ceara  were 
the  last  of  the  provinces  where  any  indisposition  remained, 
but  these  had  withdrawn  their  opposition  and  given  in  their 
adhesion.-  The  country  therefore  seemed  in  a state  of 
profound  peace  ; and  its  vast  resources  and  growing  pros- 
perity were  so  appreciated  in  Europe,  that  its  funds  became 
a favorite  security  for  investing  capital,  and  many  specu- 
lators placed  their  money  there,  not  only  in  preference  to 
all  the  other  more  unsettled  states  in  South  America,  but 
even  to  their  own  ; and  this,  as  well  because  they  were 
more  stable,  as  because  they  could  afford  to  pay  a higher 
interest. 

It  was  resolved  at  this  time  to  assemble  a congress  at 
Panama,  to  be  composed  of  representatives  from  the  several 
new  states  of  South  America,  to  mediate  between  them, 
and  regulate  the  different  interests  that  would  arise.  The 
specific  objects,  to  which  this  amphyctionic  council  of  the 
new  world  was  to  direct  its  attention,  were  these — to  advise 
in  great  conflicts,  to  interpret  treaties  with  fidelity,  to 
mediate  in  domestic  disputes,  and  to  be  an  agent  in  the 
formation  of  new  rights  with  foreign  states.  Had  this 
magnificent  idea  been  carried  into  effectual  operation,  and 
a due  influence  been  allowed  to  the  assembly,  composed 
of  deputies  from  all  the  states,  it  would  have  been  as  much 
more  important  than  that  of  the  Greeks,  as  the  great  south- 
ern peninsula  of  the  new  world  is  larger  than  Peloponnesus, 
or  the  isthmus  of  Panama  than  the  isthmus  of  Corinth. 

But  the  infant  states  were  not  yet  mature  enough  for 
such  an  assembly.  Only  four  acceded  to  its  principle  and 
sent  deputies  ; Mexico,  Peru,  Colombia,  and  Guatimala. 
The  Argentine  republic  regarded  it  with  suspicion  and 
dislike,  and  in  these  sentiments  it  was  followed  by  Chili. 
Brazil  seemed  to  accede  to  the  invitation,  and  resolved  to 
send  deputies  ; but  it  was  generally  understood  that  the 
object  was  to  watch  and  counteract  their  proceedings, 
rather  than  cordially  to  promote  their  object.  The  assem- 
bly met  and  separated  without  effect  ; the  embarrassments 
and  difficulties  of  each  particular  state,  rather  required  the 
watchful  care  of  all  its  statesmen  at  home,  than  dividing  it 
by  distant  objects  abroad  ; and  the  situation  chosen  was 
so  unhealthy,  that  many  persons  in  attendance  fell  victims 
to  the  climate,  and  the  grand  project  was  altogether  abor- 
tive. 


142 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  plan  itself,  though  so  magnificent  in  idea,  has  been 
deemed  altogether  visionary  in  practice  ; and  so  perhaps  it 
is  ; but  certainly,  were  it  possible  to  bring  it  into  effectual 
operation,  those  miserable  dissensions  which  have  disturbed 
the  new  states,  and  threatened  their  very  existence,  would 
have  been  amicably  adjusted  ; and  among  the  rest  the 
petty  but  ruinous  warfare  between  Brazil  and  Buenos 
Ayres,  an  event  which,  for  its  folly,  is  hardly  to  be  paral- 
leled in  the  annals  of  ambition. 

The  vast  region  of  Brazil,  extending  from  the  equator  to 
thirty  degrees  of  south  latitude,  and  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Andes, — abounding  in  lands  of  the  most  exuberant 
fertility,  but  nearly  destitute  of  inhabitants,  and  whose 
greatest  want  is  people  to  occupy  them, — was  not  deemed 
of  sufficient  extent  for  its  scanty  population,  though  al- 
ready as  large  as  all  Europe.  It  was  therefore  determined 
to  make,  or  rather  to  keep,  an  accession  of  territory,  to 
which  the  Brazilians  had  originally  no  right,  and  to  engage 
in  a ruinous  and  expensive  war  with  their  neighbors,  to 
effect  their  object.  There  lies  on  the  shore,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  Plate,  a strip  of  land,  called  for  that  reason 
the  Banda  Oriental,  or  the  eastern  bank.  The  territory 
on  both  sides  of  this  river,  it  appears,  was  formerly  inclu- 
ded in  the  Spanish  viceroyalty  of  Buenos  Ayres,  of  which 
the  town  of  Monte  Video,  on  a promontory  at  the  entrance 
of  the  great  estuary,  was  the  capital  ; there  were,  besides, 
Maldonado,  Colonia,  and  other  less  important  places.  When 
Buenos  Ayres,  in  1620,  was  erected  into  a bishopric, 
these  towns,  with  all  the  rest  of  the  Banda  Oriental,  were 
included  in  the  diocese,  so  that,  in  civil  and  ecclesiastical 
relations,  it  appertained  to  the  government  of  Buenos 
Ayres.  Its  situation  on  the  shores  of  the  La  Plata,  rendered 
it  indispensably  necessary  to  the  security  of  the  commerce 
of  the  city  ; as,  whoever  possessed  it,  commanded  the  nav- 
igation of  that  great  river  ; and,  therefore,  when  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  states  of  Buenos  Ayres  was  declared,  it 
made  an  essential  part  of  the  Argentine  republic. 

When  the  people,  however,  first  proclaimed  their  inde- 
pendence, this  part  was  held  by  General  Elio,  for  the  Span- 
iards, who  kept  possession  of  Monte  Video,  with  a large 
and  efficient  force.  He  was  opposed,  however,  by  the  cel- 
ebrated guacho  partisan  Artigas,  and  defeated  with  such 
loss,  at  the  battle  of  Los  Piedras,  that  the  conqueror,  join* 
ed  by  Rondeau,  laid  siege  to  Monte  Video. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


143 


It  was  now,  for  the  first  time,  that  the  Portuguese  thought 
of  interfering  with  this  portion  of  Spanish  territory.  Elio, 
finding  himself  hard  pressed,  immediately  applied  to  the 
Portuguese  government  of  Rio,  who  at  once  seized  on  the 
project  of  annexing  the  whole  of  this  Spanish  territory  to 
their  already  enormous  and  unpeopled  possessions,  and  ex- 
tending their  extravagant  limits  from  the  Amazons  to  the 
La  Plata.  An  army  of  4000  men  was  sent  to  support  Elio, 
but  he  accepted  proposals  of  peace,  and  it  was  agreed  that 
both  parties,  should  withdraw,  and  leave  the  people  of  the 
Banda  Oriental  to  themselves. 

The  war,  however,  was  renewed,  when  Vigodet,  the  new 
governor,  received  reinforcements  from  Spain  ; and  Artigas 
again  laid  siege  to  it,  and  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  surren- 
der. The  territory  was  once  more  evacuated,  and  left  to 
itself,  when  the  Portuguese  immediately  determined  to 
march  in  and  seize  it.  The  reason  assigned  at  the  time  was, 
that  the  revolutionists  of  Buenos  Ayres,  not  confining  their 
principles  to  their  own  territory,  had  sent  emissaries  into 
the  contiguous  Portuguese  provinces  of  Rio  Grande,  an«£ 
the  missions,  to  excite  revolt  and  entice  the  Indians.  A 
force,  therefore,  of  5000  men  was  despatched  into  the  coun- 
try, and  they  were  joined  by  the  continental  troops  and  Pau- 
listas,  making  an  army  of  10,000  men.  Artigas  and  his  ir- 
regular guachos  were  not  able  to  resist  them  ; and  the  Por- 
tuguese entered  Monte  Video  on  the  20th  of  January,  1817, 
and  sung  Te  Deum  for  their  conquest.  Gonzales  dos  Sanc- 
tos,  in  his  Annals,  describes  the  wonderful  benefits  the 
people  of  Monte  Video  derived  from  them  ; but  adds,  with 
great  simplicity,  u some  said  it  was  only  a pretext  to  get 
possession  of  the  country  for  ourselves,  for  the  cursed  in- 
surgents have  many  patrons,  Deos  os  confunda  ! ” 

The  inhabitants  of  the  province,  however,  were  known  to 
be  exceedingly  averse  to  the  domination  of  Brazil.  These 
republican  principles,  which  the  Spaniards  of  South  Ameri- 
ca had  universally  adopted,  had  rendered  them  hostile  to  any 
other  form  of  government  ; and  the  conduct  of  the  Portu- 
guese of  Monte  Video  tended  not  a little  to  confirm  them. 
When  the  question  of  the  constitution  was  under  discussion, 
a few  addresses  had  been  got  up  in  different  places,  calling 
on  the  emperor  to  cause  himself  to  be  made  absolute  ; but 
that  from  Monte  Video  exceeded  all  others  in  absurdity 
and  servility.  He  had  sent  his  picture  to  the  Cabildo,  or 
common-council  of  the  town.  “ When  it  appeared,”  said 


144 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


they,  a a mixed  sensation  of  trembling  and  delight  seized  us, 
as  if  we  were  in  the  presence  of  the  Lord;  ” and  they 
humbly  advise  him  to  govern  like  an  emperor,  and  u at 
once  to  assume  absolute  power.”  These  opinions  were  ex- 
ceedingly repugnant  to  the  feelings  and  principles  of  the  rest 
of  the  inhabitants,  and  they  fully  accorded  with  the  senti- 
ments of  the  manifesto  of  Buenos  Ayres,  which  told  them, 
that  u a king  born  on  the  other  side  of  the  seas  insulted 
their  repose,  and  threatened  the  honor  of  their  children.” 

General  Le  Cor,  with  2000  troops,  and  supported  by  a 
small  naval  squadron,  then  held  possession  of  Monte  Video 
and  the  Banda  territory,  as  a dependency  on  Brazil  ; but  a 
partisan,  named  Fructuoso  Rivera,  raised  the  standard  of 
revolt,  and  was  soon  joined  by  a number  of  adherents.  He 
had  been  originally  an  officer  serving  under  Artigas,  but 
had  afterwards  passed  over  to  the  service  of  the  Portuguese. 
Availing  himself,  however,  of  the  growing  indisposition  of 
the  inhabitants  to  the  Brazilian  government,  he  collected  a 
force  sufficiently  strong  to  lay  siege  to  Monte  Video,  and 
a.  detachment  of  300  men,  under  Antonio  Lavalleja,  set  out 
from  Buenos  Ayres  to  join  him.  * In  a short  time  they  over- 
ran the  whole  of  the  province,  with  the  exception  of  the 
towns  in  which  the  Portuguese  garrisons  were  shut  up,  and 
the  people  of  the  country  established  a provisional  govern- 
ment : they  declared  the  act  which  incorporated  them  with 
Brazil  now  null  and  void,  and  that  their  universal  desire 
was  to  be  united  with  their  countrymen  of  Buenos  Ayres. 
This  was  gladly  recevived  at  Buenos  Ayres  ; and  the  con- 
gress decreed  also,  that  the  act  which  joined  them  to  Brazil 
was  dissolved,  and  that  measures  should  be  taken  to  have 
the  country  evacuated  ; but  that  they  did  not  wish  to  go  to 
war,  if  the  restitution  of  their  province  could  be  amicably 
effected.  The  province  was  first  admitted  as  a member  of 
the  Argentine  republic,  and  then  the  government  of  Buenos 
Ayres  prepared  to  support  it.  Meantime  the  Brazilians 
sent  reinforcements  to  maintain  their  conquest  ; and  a petty 
warfare  ensued,  in  which  the  independents  had  uniformly 
the  advantage,  but  the  resources  of  both  infant  countries 
were  unprofitably  wasted. 

Skirmishes  in  deserts  on  the  distant  frontiers  would  not 
be  worth  the  detail  ; but  a feature  of  the  war  involved  con- 
siderably the  interests  of  other  powers.  One  of  the  meas- 
ures of  the  Brazilian  government  was  to  blockade  the  mouth 
of  Rio  de  la  Plata  ; and  in  the  beginning  of  the  year  1826, 
Admiral  Lobo,  who  commanded  a small  squadron  there,  de- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


145 


dared  that  this  measure  was  rigorously  adopted,  but  allow- 
ed all  foreign  vessels  fourteen  days  to  load  and  leave  the 
river.  Immediately  followed  a manifesto,  or  declaration  of 
war,  by  the  executive  government  of  Buenos  Ayres,  and  a 
decree  granting  reprisals  and  letters  of  marque  against  the 
commerce  of  Brazil.  If  anything  could  add  to  the  folly  of 
this  warfare,  it  was  the  absurdity  of  the  measures  adopted 
for  carrying  it  on  ; the  declaration  of  the  blockade  embraced 
a coast  of  twenty  degrees  of  latitude,  and  the  whole  mari- 
time force  available  to  carry  it  on,  amounted  to  a corvette, 
two  armed  brigs,  and  some  gunboats,  which  would  not  suf- 
fice to  watch  Buenos  Ayres  alone.  So  little  was  it  effi- 
cient, that  nine  foreign  vessels  in  one  month  entered  the 
port  in  view  of  the  squadron,  which  could  give  them  no  ef- 
fectual resistance. 

This  entire  inefficiency  invalidated  the  measure,  so  that 
no  foreign  state  was  bound  to  regard  it,  and  the  Americans 
in  particular  remonstrated  against  it  as  wholly  inadmissible 
on  the  part  of  the  United  States,  and  a violation  of  the  fun- 
damental principle  of  a blockade.  Still  the  effects  were 
highly  injurious.  While  this  contemptible  force  was  cruis* 
ing  in  the  river,  though  it  could  not  shut  up  the  port,  it  pro- 
duced a total  stagnation  of  business  in  the  capital  ; com- 
merce with  foreign  nations  was  entirely  suspended,  and 
great  commercial  distress  ensued. 

Small  as  the  Brazilian  squadron  was,  that  of  Buenos 
Ayres  was  still  smaller  ; and  to  augment  it,  the  govern- 
ment purchased  from  Chili  their  fleet,  such  as  it  was,  which 
they  themselves  had  now  no  occasion  for  ; and  Admiral 
Brown,  who  commanded  the  ships  of  the  republic,  went 
overland  to  take  charge  of  it  round  Cape  Horn.  These 
fleets  carried  on,  in  the  river  of  Plate,  a war  of  petty  skir- 
mishing similar  to  those  on  land  ; while  the  pirates  of  both 
states  now  swarmed  abroad,  and  neutral  ships  were  boarded 
at  sea  far  beyond  the  limits  even  of  the  assigned  blockades. 
Some  of  them  suffered  the  most  atrocious  treatment  ; and 
in  fact  the  belligerents  became  nests  of  ferocious  pirates. 

By  land,  the  warfare  was  carried  out  of  the  Banda  into 
the  Brazilian  provinces  of  Rio  Grande  and  St.  Paul’s,  in- 
vited by  the  spirit  of  discontent  which  already  existed  there  ; 
and  this  was  another  feature  of  imprudence  in  provoking 
hostilities  with  the  republicans.  The  throne  of  Brazil  was 
scarcely  established,  and  even  in  time  of  peace,  the  demo- 
cratic feelings  of  all  the  states  around,  presented  powerful 


146 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


seductions  to  its  subjects  to  imitate  their  example,  as  they 
could  entertain  only  one  common  desire  to  see  monarchy 
and  its  principles  eradicated  from  America,  as  well  from 
sentiment  as  from  a feeling  of  insecurity,  and  a wish  to  give 
stability  to  their  own  institutions  ; but  the  war  increased 
considerably  their  power  of  exciting  discontent,  and  afford- 
ed them  a most  plausible  pretext  to  take  advantage  of  it. 

It  was  now  that  the  emperor,  dreading  the  consequences 
of  the  growing  spirit  which  was  spreading  through  the 
southern  states,  resolved  in  person  to  arrest  its  progress, 
as  he  had  done  on  former  occasions  ; and,  on  the  24th  of 
November,  1826,  he  embarked  for  the  isle  of  St.  Catherine, 
Rio  Grande,  from  whence  he  landed  on  the  continent,  and 
proceeded  to  the  frontiers.  The  circumstance  connected 
with  the  departure  was  the  cause  of  a domestic  calamity, 
which  has  been  deeply  felt  and  deplored  all  over  Brazil. 
It  is  far  from  my  desire  to  communicate  to  you  the  private 
scandal  which  circulates  at  Rio  as  profusely  as  in  Europe  ; 
but  I wish  to  give  you  a faithful  detail  of  events  which  in- 
volve the  morals  and  happiness  of  a people,  without  respect 
to  persons  ; for  public  opinion  is  a tribunal  before  which 
every  one  must  appear,  and  the  higher  his  rank  in  society, 
the  more  he  is  amenable  to  its  decisions. 


CHAP.  XII. 


Empress  taken  alarmingly  ill. — Means  resorted  to  for  her  Recovery. — Affecting  An- 
ecdotes of  her  amiable  Disposition. — Revolting  Conduct  of  her  Camareira. — Death 
and  Funeral. — Sensibility  of  Dona  Maria. — Spontaneous  Testimonies  of  the  Love 
which  all  Classes  bore  her. — Conduct  and  Character. — Children — Death  of  her 
first  Child  attributed  to  the  English,  and  strange  Impressions  of  the  eldest  Sons  of 
the  House  of  Braganza. — Emperor  returns  to  Rio. — Battle  of  Ituzango. — War 
against  Human  Civilization. — Peace  made,  but  not  ratified. — Legislative  Body  as- 
sembles. 

On  visiting  the  province  of  St.  Paul’s  on  a former  occa- 
sion, he  had  met  with  a lady  who  had  attracted  his  attention 
in  no  ordinary  degree  ; by  the  connivance,  it  is  said,  of  her 
own  brother,  an  interview  was  arranged,  and  from  that  time 
he  became  attached  to  her  to  a passionate  excess.  He  cre- 
ated her  Marchioness  of  Santos, — built  a palace  for  her  close 
by  that  at  S.  Christovao, — acknowledged  her  child  as  his 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


147 


own,  by  the  title  of  Duchess  of  Goyaz, — and  so  far  forgot 
what  was  due  to  the  private  feelings  of  her  he  was  bound  to 
cherish  and  respect,  that  he  had  this  person  appointed 
one  of  the  ladies  in  waiting-  for  his  wife.  These  are  mat- 
ters of  public  notoriety,  of  which  the  evidence  exists  in  the 
facts  themselves.  They  were  borne  with  a meek  and  un- 
complaining submission  by  the  empress  ; but  on  the  night 
of  his  embarkation  for  St.  Catherine’s,  a circumstance  oc- 
curred which  roused  even  her  gentle  spirit.  She  had  ac- 
quiesced, from  a sense  of  duty,  in  such  arrangements  as  her 
husband  was  pleased  to  make  ; but  she  Would  not  sacrifice 
the  respect  she  owed  herself,  by  visiting  her  unworthy  at- 
tendant, nor  seem  to  countenance  vice  by  such  a public 
mark  of  apparent  approbation  ; a painful  discussion  took 
place,  and  immediately  after  his  departure,  the  empress  was 
taken  alarmingly  ill. 

The  indications  of  her  illness  commenced  with  great  se- 
verity, she  being  then  in  the  first  stage  of  pregnancy.  The 
bulletins  of  her  health,  published  at  the  time,  which  I have 
read,  contain  details  of  symptoms  with  an  indelicate,  indeed 
I may  say,  a disgusting  accuracy,  which  I am  not  disposed 
to  copy  or  translate.  They  were  principally  affections  con- 
nected with  her  state,  and  seriously  afflicting  her  with  spas- 
modic and  nervous  attacks.  The  whole  science  of  Brazil- 
ian medicine  was  exhausted, andjjthe  enumeration  of  “ epis- 
pasticos,  fri^coes,  sanguesuxes,  banhos,  catharticos,  anti- 
spasmodicos,  nauseates,”  and  divers  other  means  which 
are  pompously  detailed,  afford  abundant  proof  how  much 
she  must  have  suffered,  both  from  doctors  and  disease. ~~ 
Beside  the  aid  of  medicine,  everything  was  resorted  to 
which  the  religion  of  the  country  prescribed  as  efficacious 
on  solemn  occasions, — processions  of  the  different  religious 
orders,  and  visitations  of  images  of  reputed  sanctity. — * 
Among  these,  one  is  gravely  mentioned,  which  can  hardly 
fail  to  excite  a melancholy  smile,  even  on  so  sad  an  occa- 
sion. Her  particular  patroness,  and  at  whose  shrine  she 
paid  assiduous  adoration  during  her  life-time,  was  Nossa 
Senhora  da  Gloria  ; she,  therefore,  was  particularly  inte- 
rested in  her  recovery,  and  u the  people,”  said  one  account, 
u could  not  see  without  the  strongest  emotion  of  piety,  her 
image,  which  never  condescended  to  issue  from  its  temple, 
for  the  first  time,  on  this  occasion,  under  a heavy  shower  of 
rain , visiting  the  princess,  who  never  failed  on  Sundays  to 
be  found  at  the  foot  of  her  altar.”  Alas,  poor  lady  ! even 


148 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


such  condecension  was  as  unavailing  as  the  medicines  un- 
der which  she  suffered. 

On  the  2d  of  December,  premature  labor  came  on  ; 
she  was  delivered  of  a male  child  a few  months  old,  and 
experienced  some  slight  remission  of  the  symptoms  ; but 
they  soon  after  returned  with  such  violence,  that  all  hope 
of  life  was  abandoned.  It  was  then  that  her  very  amiable 
disposition  displayed  itself.  After  having  humbly  received 
the  last  rites  of  her  church,  she  called  around  her  all  the 
domestics  of  her  establishment,  and  while  they  stood,  shed- 
ding tears  of  real  sympathy  and  feeling,  beside  her  bed,  she 
asked  them  in  succession  whether  she  had  injured  or  offend- 
ed them  by  word  or  deed,  as  she  could  not  leave  the  world 
with  the  impression  on  her  mind  that  any  one  remembered 
aught  against  her,  for  which  she  could  make  reparation. — 
The  whole  tenor  of  her  domestic  life  had  been  so  good  and 
condescending  to  others,  that  nothing  could  be  recollected 
that  was  not  so  ; and  her  attendants  only  answered  by  irre- 
pressible sobs  and  tears,  which  her  humility  and  kindness 
had  excited. 

On  this  occasion,  it  is  said,  the  person  who  had  been 
the  cause  of  all  her  domestic  afflictions  was  proceeding  to 
her  apartment  ; but  as  she  was  the  last  person  whom  she 
could  wish  to  see  about  her,  a representation  was  made  on 
the  impropriety  of  her  entering  the  empress’s  chamber,  and 
adding  by  her  presence  to  the  sufferings  of  her  imperial 
mistress. — Yet  she  persisted,  in  right  of  her  office  as  ca- 
mareira,  in  making  her  way,  with  a total  disregard  of  all 
feeling  and  sense  of  propriety  on  such  a solemn  occasion, 
notwithstanding  strong  remonstrances  made  to  her  ; and 
was  hardly  at  length  repulsed  by  the  firmness  and  good 
sense  of  some  of  the  attendants,  who  were  afterwards  dis- 
missed for  their  interference. 

On  the  1 1th  of  December,  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
the  empress  was  relieved  from  her  acute  sufferings  by 
death,  having  to  the  last  sustained  her  illness  with  a meek 
and  pious  fortitude.  She  perished  in  the  prime  of  life,  and 
just  before  in  apparent  health,  at  the  early  age  of  twenty- 
nine  years,  ten  months,  and  nineteen  days. 

Her  funeral  was  conducted  with  a pomp  and  splendor 
hitherto  unknown  in  Brazil.  It  is  not  my  intention  to  de- 
scribe it  to  you,  as  it  was  described  to  me,  with  all  its  gaudy 
display.  Invest,  if  you  will,  the  living  persons  of  rank  and 
power  with  all  the  ensigns  that  rank  and  power  can  exact. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


149 


they  may  be  necessary  to  excite  the  feeling  of  awe  and  res- 
pect in  the  governed,  toward  those  who  govern,  which  obe- 
dience to  the  laws  and  the  good  order  of  the  state  may  re- 
quire ; but  to  surround  the  corpse  with  such  distinctions,  to 
wrap  the  putrid  body  in  costly  robes,  and  to  illuminate  it 
with  glare  and  splendor,  only  to  make  its  melancholy  de- 
cay more  conspicuous,  seems  to  me  the  most  miserable 
mockery  of  the  dead,  and  the  greatest,  as  it  is  the  weakest, 
absurdity  of  the  living.  There  were,  however,  parts  of  this 
solemnity  which  were  no  less  affecting  than  they  were  ra- 
tional and  appropriate  to  the  sad  occasion.  Of  all  such 
ceremony  the  beijamao,  or  kissing  the  hand,  forms  an  es- 
sential part.  The  hand  of  the  deceased  is  extended,  and 
for  the  last  time  those  who  loved  and  respected  the  living, 
come  to  take  an  affectionate  leave  of  all  that  remained  of 
them.  On  this  occasion,  her  children  approached  to  pay 
this  solemn  duty  to  their  mother.  They  were  led  respec- 
tively by  the  chamberlains  of  the  court  to  the  side  of  the 
coffin,  and  there  kissed  her  extended  hand.  They  were  all 
too  young  to  feel  any  strong  impression  of  what  they  were 
doing,  except  the  eldest,  Dona  Maria.  The  young  Queen 
of  Portugal,  I am  told,  showed  extraordinary  sensibility 
for  her  age.  She  sobbed  and  wept  bitterly,  and  seemed 
deeply  and  affectionately  impressed  with  the  recollection  of 
her  good  mother. 

The  funeral  procession  was  at  night,  and  performed  by 
torch-light,  as  are  those  of  all  the  persons  of  rank  in  the 
country.  Seven  altars  were  erected  at  the  veranda  of  the 
palace,  at  which  seven  clergymen  officiated,  and  the  streets 
through  which  the  funeral  passed  were  lined  with  ecclesiastics 
of  the  several  religious  communities.  At  eleven  at  night  it 
arrived  at  the  convent  of  the  Ajuda,  where  the  body  was  re- 
ceived by  the  sisterhood,  and  deposited,  not  in  a tomb,  but 
under  a canopy,  in  which  state  it  still  remains  in  the  ceme- 
tery of  the  convent,  which  does  not  contain  the  remains  of 
a more  pure  or  excellent  woman. 

When  her  death  was  known,  it  produced  a sudden  and 
spontaneous  expression  of  grief  from  the  nation,  no  less  flat- 
tering to  the  memory  of  the  empress,  than  creditable  to 
themselves.  The  Brazilians  are  a people  of  strong  sensi- 
bilities, and  prize  as  highly,  as  they  appreciate  justly,  the 
moral  qualities  of  those  who  are  conspicuous  among  them 
for  rank  or  station.  The  public  press  is  the  vehicle  through 
which  these  feelings  are  conveyed  ; it  is  a novel  and  fasci- 


150 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


nating  medium  of  communicating  what  they  think,  and  if  it 
sometimes  displays  the  bad  passions  which  agitate  the  mind 
of  the  writers,  it  as  often  evinces  the  good  and  kindly  ones. 
On  this  occasion  it  teemed  with  letters  from  individuals  of 
both  sexes,  expressing  in  strong  and  affecting  language 
their  feelings  on  this  melancholy  occasion,  of  which  I send 
you  one  of  each,  as  a specimen  of  Brazilian  style  and  senti- 
ment. 

The  first  is  from  a man  : — u I render  my  humble  and  due 
homage  to  the  virtues  of  the  empress.  Disinterested,  re- 
tiring, her  character  was  kindness,  her  conduct  modesty ; 
a dutiful  consort,  an  affectionate  mother,  an  affable  princess, 
a friend  to  the  sciences,  generous,  just,  and  full  of  sensibil- 
ity. She  loved  the  human  race,  and  did  good  to  all  to  whom 
her  arm  could  extend  : she  never  saw  distress  without  a 
corresponding  feeling  of  affliction  and  an  effort  to  relieve  it. 
The  day  on  which  princes  descend  to  the  tomb  belongs  to 
history  ; the  people  whose  destinies  they  sway,  mark,  when 
they  cease  to  exist,  the  future  place  which  they  ought  to  fill ; 
and  severe  truth  elevates  herself  on  their  tombs,  and  speaks 
of  them  as  they  really  are.  Contemporaries  are  the  sub- 
jects of  sovereigns,  but  sovereigns  themselves  are  the  sub- 
jects of  posterity.  The  virtues  which  adorned  her — her  wis- 
dom, her  moderation,  her  prudence,  her  charities,  her  very 
sufferings,  have  endeared  her  memory  to  a sincere  people. 
This  is  not  the  language  of  adulation  or  the  tactic  of  a court. 
It  is  that  feeling  which  has  called  unbidden  tears  into  the 
eyes  of  every  citizen,  and  clothed  them  with  spontaneous 
mourning.  ” 

The  next  is  from  a woman  : — “ I never  supposed  that  any 
motive  could  compel  me  to  leave  the  privacy  and  retirement 
in  which  I have  lived,  and  become  a correspondent  of  the 
public  press  ; but  I am  a Brazilian  woman,  a wife,  and  a 
mother  ; and  I cannot  restrain  the  impulse  which  urges  me 
to  give  utterance  to  what  I feel  on  this  melancholy  occasion, 
though  I want  words  in  which  to  express  myself ; and  when 
I attempt  to  write,  the  only  expression  of  my  grief  is  tears. 
Still  I cannot  rest  in  my  apartment,  if  I do  not  publicly  avow 
the  affliction  with  which  my  heart  is  bursting.  Who,  endued 
with  the  feelings  of  our  common  nature,  and  gifted  with  a 
human  heart,  that  does  not  weep  when  the  best  of  women, 
the  most  dutiful  of  wives,  and  the  kindest  of  mothers,  has 
ceased  to  exist  among  us  ? To  woman,  wife,  mother,  I 
then  appeal  to  join  their  tears  with  mine.  Would  that  they 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL 


151 


could  restore  her  to  life  ! Would  that  my  blood  could  re- 
vive her  ! Every  drop  should  be  shed  for  that  purpose,  in 
testimony  how  dear  in  person  and  valuable  in  character  she 
was  to  the  Brazilians.  But  our  misfortune  is  consummated, 
and  all  that  remains  for  us  is  religion  and  resignation  to  the 
will  of  Providence,  who  has  so  disposed  it.” 

The  writers  of  these  and  similar  articles  w ere  unknown, 
and  their  eulogies  were  the  simple,  sincere,  and  unbought 
tribute  of  respect  and  affection  from  persons  in  the  middle 
ranks  of  life.  They  all  praise  her,  not  for  her  high  station, 
but  for  her  moral  worth  and  personal  qualities  ; and  a poet- 
ical effusion  of  this  kind  had  so  little  of  the  deference  and 
adulation  offered  to  royalty  on  such  occasions,  that  it  takes 
for  its  motto  the  classical  warning  of  antiquity  to  elevated 
rank  : 


Pallida  mors  sequo  pulsat  pede 
Pauperum  taberrias 
Regumque  turres. 

When  the  empress  first  came  to  Brazil,  she  is  represent- 
ed as  exceedingly  engaging  and  lovely  ; her  fair  skin,  clear 
complexion,  blue  eyes,  and  blond  hair,  were  pleasingly 
contrasted  with  the  dark  locks,  brown  tint,  and  sallow  vis- 
ages of  the  ladies  about  her.  But  she  soon  neglected 
these  advantages  : she  had  not  the  least  personal  vanity, 
and  became  utterly  careless  of  her  appearance,  as  of 
a thing  altogether  of  no  consideration.  She  went  abroad 
with  large  thick  boots,  loaded  with  great  tarnished 
spurs,  such  as  are  worn  by  the  mineirois.  She  wrapped 
herself  up  in  a clumsy  great  coat,  and  a man’s  hat, 
and  in  this  way  sat  herself  astride  on  a horse,  and  rode 
through  all  parts  of  the  town.  It  is  true,  this  mode  of  riding 
is  always  practised  in  the  provinces,  and  I have  never  seen 
a woman  there  ride  otherwise  ; and  she  adopted  it  from  a 
wish  to  conciliate,  in  complying  with  the  customs  of  the 
people  among  whom  she  came  to  reside  ; though  in  Bio, 
where  European  habits  and  the  usages  of  more  polished 
countries  have  modelled  the  opinions  of  the  natives,  it  is  con- 
sidered as  coarse  and  indelicate.  When  she  became  a mo- 
ther, she  was  as  negligent  of  her  person  at  home  as  abroad. 
Her  hair,  which  was  long,  and  without  curl,  she  suffered  to 
hang  lank  and  loose  about  her  face  and  shoulders  ; and  the 
defects  of  her  person  became  every  day  more  conspicuous. 
She  had  a large  Austrian  nether  lip,  and  the  thick  neck  which 


152 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


is  characteristic  of  the  people  of  Vienna,  and  gives  them 
the  appearance  of  being  bossn.  When  she  first  appeared 
as  bride,  with  all  the  advantages  of  youth  and  dress,  these 
defects  were  not  apparent  ; but  when  neglect  and  indiffer- 
ence, and  the  duties  of  a mother  succeeded,  they  were  but 
too  conspicuous,  and  added,  it  is  said,  to  the  estrangement 
of  her  husband,  who  was  himself  scrupulously  neat  in  his 
person,  as  all  the  Brazilians  are,  and  exacted  a similar  at- 
tention from  those  about  him. 

I have  heard  her  much  censured  for  this  neglect  of  her- 
self, as  an  attention  to  her  person  might  have  secured  to  her 
the  enduring  affections  of  her  husband,  as  well  as  his  high 
esteem,  which  she  never  lost.  But  these  trifling  faults,  if 
faults  they  could  be  called,  were  lost  in  her  many  amiable 
and  excellent  qualities.  Her  charity  was  so  boundless, 
that  she  never  could  resist  an  application.  When  she  went 
abroad,  she  carried  her  pocket  full  of  silver,  which  she  took 
pleasure  in  distributing  to  every  one  in  distress.  In  this 
way,  her  allowance  could  never  keep  pace  with  her  gene- 
rosity. She  was  a most  kind  and  indulgent  mistress  to 
every  one  around  her  ; an  affectionate  mother,  and  a dutiful 
and  submissive  wife,  under  all  her  provocations.  She  ad- 
ded to  this,  a conduct  the  most  correct  and  blameless,  and 
an  unaffected  affability  and  condescension  in  her  high  state, 
which  every  body  felt  and  acknowledged.  Her  love  of  lit- 
erature and  the  fine  arts  was  a distinguished  feature  in  her 
character,  and  her  talent  for  letter-writing,  both  in  French 
and  her  native  language,  is  highly  spoken  of,  which  she  ex- 
ercised with  effect  for  the  benefit  of  Brazil.  Her  father- 
in-law,  Dom  John,  equally  loved  and  respected  her,  and  it 
was  her  letter  to  him  that  effectually  reconciled  him  to  the 
recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  country. 

I have  been  more  particular  in  noticing  the  death  and 
character  of  this  lady,  because  she  was  the  first  empress  of 
the  new  world.  Had  she  lived,  her  conduct  might  have 
had  an  important  influence  on  that  of  her  sex  here  and 
the  females  of  Brazil  would  have  been  formed  on  her  good 
model.  The  exemplary  manner  in  which  she  performed 
her  domestic  duties,  the  strict  and  blameless  tenor  of  her 
life,  would  no  doubt  have  established  a spirit  of  imitation 
among  those  about  her  ; while  her  love  of  literature  and 
the  arts  would  have  made  such  pursuits  fashionable,  and 
excited  a correspondent  feeling  among  those  who  have  hith- 
erto taken  no  kind  of  interest  in  them.  She  left  behind  her 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


153 


an  elegant  and  well-assorted  library,  -and  also  a very  beauti- 
ful cabinet  of  minerals,  the  choicest  specimens  of  the  na- 
tive mines.  When  I went  to  S.  Christovao,  I expressed  a 
strong  wish  to  the  Marquess  d’Aracaty,  to  be  allowed  to 
see  them,  as  remains  of  the  person  whose  memory  I had 
been  taught  so  highly  to  respect  ; but  I was  informed  they 
were  not  in  order,  and  it  is  probable  they  will  continue  so. 

The  empress  left  behind  her  five  children  : 


Dona  Maria  de  Gloria,  Queen  of  Portugal,  . . born  April  4, 1819. 

Dona  Januaria, born  March  11,  1821. 

Dona  Paula  Mariana,  . . born  Feb.  17,  1823. 

Dona  Francisca  Carolina, . born  August  2,  1824, 

Dom  Pedro  d’AIcantara,  Imperial  Prince  of 


Brazil,  and  heir  apparent  to  the  throne,  . . born  Dec.  2,  1825. 

She  had  another  child,  a boy,  Dom  Joao  Carlos,  but  he 
fell  a victim  to  the  auxiliary  Portuguese.  When  they  were 
breaking  the  windows,  and  outraging  the  inhabitants  in 
1822,  his  father  thought  it  necessary  to  send  off  his  wife  and 
family  from  Rio,  to  Santo  Cruz,  a royal  residence,  about  sev- 
enteen leagues  distant.  They  set  out  suddenly,  in  a moment 
of  great  alarm,  without  any  convenience,  and  were  exposed 
to  a wet  and  cold  night,  after  a very  hot  day  ; and  the  death 
of  the  child  was  the  consequence,  who  caught  a fever  and 
died.  This  circumstance  Dom  Pedro  pathetically  laments, 
in  his  correspondence  with  his  father  ; and  in  accusing  the 
Portuguese  at  that  time  of  causing  the  death  of  his  son  and 
heir,  adds  another  reason  for  his  hostility  to  them.  The 
Brazilians  implicate  others  in  this  charge.  Application  had 
been  made  to  the  commander  of  the  Doris  frigate,  then  lying 
in  the  harbor,  to  receive  the  princess  and  family  on  board, 
and  convey  them  by  sea  to  Santa  Cruz.  Though  it  was  the 
obvious  duty  of  the  English  to  preserve  a strict  neutrality, 
yet  answer  was  sent  that  they  would  be  received  ; but  they, 
for  some  reason,  did  not  go.  Notwithstanding,  the  Bra- 
zilians still  affirm  that  the  English  were  notoriously  favor- 
able to  the  Portuguese,  and  for  that  reason  would  not  re- 
ceive the  royal  family  ; and  so  the  heir  apparent  was  sac- 
rificed. 

It  is  remarkable  that  an  eldest  son  of  the  house  of  Bra- 
ganza  has  never  reigned,  some  accident  or  circumstance 
always  having  occurred  to  prevent  it.  When  this  young 
prince  was  born,  it  was  universally  said,  that  he  would  not 
succeed  his  father  ; and  the  event  so  unexpectedly  occur- 
ring, has  confirmed  the  Brazilians  in  the  belief  that  their  pre- 
diction was  well  founded. 


154 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  first  despatches  the  emperor  received  on  landing  in 
the  south,  contained  an  account  of  the  empress’s  death. 
He  was  in  the  act  of  mounting  his  horse  to  proceed  to  the 
object  of  his  journey,  when  the  letters  were  put  into  his 
hand  : he  was  greatly  shocked  and  deeply  affected  ; and  I 
have  heard  from  those  about  his  person,  that  when  any- 
thing recalls  her  image  to  his  mind,  it  never  fails  to  excite 
tears.  He  proceeded  no  further  in  his  intended  campaign, 
but  immediately  returned  to  Rio,  where  he  arrived  on  the 
I5th  of  January,  1827.  His  first  act,  after  his  arrival,  was 
to  dismiss  his  ministry. 

As  soon  as  it  was  known  at  Buenos  Ayres  that  the  em- 
peror had  proceeded  to  the  frontier,  it  excited  an  extraordi- 
nary sensation.  The  president  addressed  a proclamation  to 
the  people,  calling  on  them  to  defend  what  he  called  “ the 
vanguard  of  their  republic,”  and  large  reinforcements  were 
sent  to  the  army.  The  republican  General  Alvear  ad- 
dressed them  in  an  energetic  speech,  in  which  he  told  them, 
that  the  emperor  himself  had  descended  from  his  throne  to 
put  himself  at  the  head  of  his  slaves,  and  they  had  now  to 
grapple  with  a European  tyrant  and  his  myrmidons,  who 
were  coming  to  throw  their  chains  over  them.  This  was  a 
prelude  to  the  most  and  only  important  engagement  in  the 
course  of  the  war.  The  Brazilian  infantry  had  been  rein- 
forced by  a battalion  of  Germans,  a part  of  the  legions  in- 
vited over  as  settlers,  which  afterwards  caused  such  dread- 
ful commotions.  They  were  also  supported  by  a large  body 
of  cavalry,  and  a park  of  six  pieces  of  artillery.  The  re- 
publicans advanced  to  Ituzango,  and  a desperate  action 
commenced,  which  was  maintained  on  both  sides  with  vigor 
and  obstinacy.  The  Brazilians,  however,  gave  way.  The 
cavalry  of  the  enemy,  used  to  constant  exercise  on  the  ex- 
tensive pampas,  were  more  expert  horsemen  than  their  op- 
ponents. They  broke  their  ranks  in  a successful  charge, 
drove  them  from  the  field,  and  then  attacked  the  infantry, 
which  lay  completely  exposed,  and  were  compelled  to  retire 
with  the  loss  of  1200  men,  according  to  the  republican  ac- 
count, and  ten  pieces  of  cannon.  This  advantage  they  fol- 
lowed up,  and  it  was  rendered  more  complete  by  the  deser- 
tion of  large  bodies  of  Brazilians  to  their  standard,  who  had 
been  previously  seduced,  and  only  waited  an  opportunity  to 
join  them.  As  they  advanced,  they  reinstated  numbers  of 
families,  who  had  fled  hefore  the  imperialists,  in  their  aban- 
doned possessions  ; and  entering  the  town  of  San  Gabriel, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


155 


which  had  been  an  imperial  depot,  they  found  a great  quan- 
tity of  military  stores,  and  the  sum  of  300,000  dollars,  of 
which  they  stood  much  in  need. 

The  Brazilians3  after  some  unsuccessful  efforts  to  stop 
their  progress,  retired  before  them,  pursued  by  the  republi- 
cans into  their  own  province  of  Rio  Grande.  In  his  retreat, 
the  imperial  general,  in  order  to  impede  the  advance  of  the 
enemy  by  destroying  any  resources  they  might  find,  com- 
pelled all  the  inhabitants  to  abandon  their  dwellings  and 
consume  everything  behind  them  ; and  thus  population, 
which  for  a series  of  years  was  slowly  and  laboriously  ad- 
vancing through  this  wilderness,  was,  in  one  short  campaign 
of  this  unhappy  warfare,  completely  obliterated,  and  the 
country  again  reduced  to  its  primitive  desert.  This  war  on 
human  civilization  was  carried  on  in  every  direction.  The 
people  of  Buenos  Ayres  had  established  a colony  on  the 
coast  of  Patagonia,  and  even  this  the  Brazilians  were  de- 
termined to  destroy.  An  armament  of  four  vessels  was 
sent  to  eradicate  the  incipient  traces  of  civilized  life  even 
from  this  desert  coast  ; happily  the  expedition  failed  ; three 
of  the  vessels  were  taken,  and  the  fourth  narrowly  escaped. 

These  defeats  were  counterbalanced  by  some  partial  suc- 
cesses. Maldonado,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  La  Plata, 
was  taken,  and  Admiral  Brown  lost  two  of  his  ships,  and 
was  himself  wounded  ; but,  fortunate  for  the  people,  all  par- 
ties were  now  tired  and  exhausted  with  this  wild  and  most 
unprofitable  contest,  and  the  government  of  Buenos  Ayres 
sent  M.  Garcias  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  treat  for  peace,  on  the 
basis  of  both  sides  abandoning  the  debatable  land,  and 
leaving  the  people  to  themselves.  Garcias,  however,  for- 
getting the  instruction  he  had  received,  after  a few  days’ 
negotiation,  signed,  on  the  24th  of  May,  a treaty  of  peace, 
formally  ackowledging  Monte  Video  as  an  integral  part  of 
the  empire  of  Brazil,  and  engaging  that  the  republican 
troops  should  immediately  evacuate  the  territories,  and  be 
reduced  to  the  peace  establishment. 

When  these  terms  were  known  at  Buenos  Ayres,  they 
excited  the  strongest  indignation.  The  common  people 
cried  out,  they  were  betrayed,  and  called  for  war,  eternal 
war  on  Brazil.  The  ministers,  with  the  president,  refused 
to  ratify  the  treaty,  as  the  envoy  had  violated  his  instruc- 
tions, and  the  congress  unanimously  approved  of  their  con- 
duct. Again,  therefore,  hostilities  commenced,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  provide  resources  for  them. 


156 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Meantime  the  period  for  assembling  the  legislative  body 
of  Brazil  arrived,  and  on  the  3d  of  May,  1827,  the  mem- 
bers met  at  Rio.  The  session  was  opened  by  the  emperor 
in  the  senate-house,  into  which  he  was  introduced  by  a de- 
putation of  twentyfour  representatives  and  fourteen  sena- 
tors ; and  he  delivered  a speech  from  the  throne,  which  con- 
tained the  following  passages  : — u August  and  honorable 
representatives,  I meet  you  here  in  pursuance  of  the  law, 
resolved  to  open  this  assembly  with  the  same  enthusiasm 
with  which  I have  always  performed  my  duty  ; but  I can- 
not say  with  the  same  joy,  since  the  place  which  that  feel- 
ing should  occupy  in  my  imperial  heart,  is  filled  by  grief 
and  affliction  for  the  death  of  my  dearly  beloved  and  ever 
amiable  spouse,  the  empress.  On  the  11th  of  December, 
at  a quarter  after  ten  in  the  morning,  she  left  this  world  for 
the  mansions  of  the  just,  whereip  she  will  assuredly  dwell, 
as  we  all  through  faith  believe  that  place  to  be  destined  for 
those  who,  like  her,  have  led  a virtuous  and  religious  life.” 

After  stating  that  the  war  must  be  continued,  till  Buenos 
Ayres  acknowledged  the  independence  of  the  Brazilian  na- 
tion and  the  integrity  of  the  empire,  with  the  incorporation 
of  the  province  of  Cis-Platina,  and  recommending  a system 
of  finance  to  cover  the  expenses  necessarily  to  be  incurred, 
he  thus  spoke  of  the  judicial  power  : — 

a We  have  no  code,  no  forms  of  process  suited  to  the 
spirit  of  the  age  ; the  laws  interfere  with  each  other  ; the 
judges  are  embarrassed  by  the  decisions  ; the  parties  in  suits 
are  injured  ; criminals  escape  punishment  ; the  salaries  of 
the  judges  are  not  sufficient  to  secure  them  against  the  temp- 
tation of  a base  and  sordid  interest ; and  therefore  it  is  ne- 
cessary that  this  assembly  should  speedily  and  earnestly  pro- 
ceed to  accomplish  an  object  so  important  to  public  tranquil- 
lity and  happiness.” 

Notwithstanding  this  just  and  frightful  picture  of  the  ad- 
ministration of  justice  in  the  country,  and  the  recommenda- 
tion which  accompanied  it,  nothing  has  hitherto  been  done, 
and  the  present  state  of  the  tribunals  is  a grievance  which 
comes  home  every  day  to  the  business  and  bosoms  of  every 
man  in  Brazil. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


157 


CHAP.  XIII. 

Irish  and  German  Soldiers. — Strong  Prejudices  of  the  Brazilians. — Treatment  of  the 
Irish. — Means  taken  to  exasperate  them. — Mutiny  among  the  Germans  at  S. 
Christovao. — Spreads  to  the  Praya  Vermelha. — Murder  of  their  Major. — Sangui- 
nary Orders  of  the  Minister  at  War. — Insurrection  of  the  Irish  at  the  Campo  d’Ac- 
clamacao. — French  and  English  Marines  landed. — Cruelty  of  the  Moleques. — 
Number  of  Persons  killed. — Irish  embarked  on  board  Ships  of  War. — Kind  Conduct 
of  the  Emperor  to  them. — Horrid  State  in  which  some  were  found  — Sent  home. — 
Disposal  of  those  left  behind. — German  soldiers  tried  as  Mutineers,  and  one  ex- 
ecuted.— Intrepid  Conduct. — Emperor  visits  the  English  Admiral. — Dismisses  his 
Ministry  for  their  Conduct. 

Among  the  unfortunate  events  to  which  the  war  gave  rise, 
was  one  which  was  attended  with  the  most  fearful  and 
disastrous  effects  at  the  moment,  and  which,  in  its  conse- 
quences, may  be  highly  injurious  to  the  best  interests  of  the 
country.  In  order  that  as  few  persons  as  possible  might  be 
drawn  from  agriculture  in  the  interior,  and  from  the  pursuits 
of  commerce  and  manufactures  in  the  maritime  cities,  to 
recruit  the  army  on  the  frontiers,  it  was  determined  to  en- 
gage a number  of  foreigners  as  soldiers  ; first  to  do  duty  as 
military,  and  then  be  located  as  agriculturists,  after  a certain 
term  of  service  ; and  to  that  end  Germans,  who  from  the 
family  connexion  of  the  emperor,  and  Irish,  who  from  the 
redundancy  of  population  at  home,  might  be  easily  procured, 
were  invited  to  Brazil  for  the  purpose. 

This  project  was  well  conceived  ; and,  had  the  inducements 
held  out  been  fulfilled  with  punctuality  and  good  faith,  this 
influx  of  Europeans,  introducing  their  modes  of  agriculture 
and  the  mechanic  arts  into  a new  country,  would  have  been 
of  vast  advantage  to  the  existing  state  of  Brazil.  But  the 
moment  the  project  was  adopted  by  the  government,  it  rous- 
ed all  the  prejudices  and  suspicions  of  the  people.  Since 
the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese,  the  greatest  jealousy  exist- 
ed against  every  European  ; some  imagined  the  present  plan 
merely  a scheme  to  introduce  and  create  an  army  of  foreign 
mercenaries,  who,  having  no  sympathy  or  bond  of  connexion 
with  the  people,  would  be  the  ready  instruments  of  support- 
ing a despotic  government  ; and  this,  in  fact,  did  enter  into 
the  contemplation  of  the  emperor  and  his  ministers,  who  sup- 
posed they  would  be  an  available  check  on  the  growing  spirit 
of  democracy.  But  even  if  this  objection  did  not  exist,  the 


158 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


amalgamation  of  Brazilians  with  foreigners  was  still  a diffi- 
cult thing,  and  all  classes  had  a strong  repugnance  to  the  in- 
troduction of  any  strangers  but  slaves  from  the  coast  of  Af- 
rica. Every  secret  expedient,  therefore,  was  resorted  to, 
to  render  the  plan  abortive,  and  the  event  proved  with 
what  success. 

In  October,  1826,  Colonel  Cotter,  an  Irish  officer  in  the 
imperial  service,  entered  into  an  engagement  with  the  Bra- 
zilian government  to  bring  over  a number  of  his  countrymen. 
It  does  not  appear  what  were  the  precise  terms  which  he 
was  authorized  to  offer  to  them  ; but,  as  far  as  I can  col- 
lect from  several  I have  conversed  .with,  who  remained  be- 
hind in  Brazil,  and  from  other  sources,  they  were  as 
follow  : — Every  man  was  to  receive  pay  and  allowances 
equal  to  one  shilling  per  day,  one  pound  of  beef,  and  one 
pound  of  bread  as  rations,  and  were  to  be  employed  four 
hours  each  day  in  learning  military  exercises,  to  be  ready 
to  act  as  soldiers  if  called  on,  but  not  to  be  sent  out  of  the 
province  of  Rio,  unless  in  time  of  war  or  invasion  ; and  at 
the  end  of  five  years  of  such  engagement,  to  be  discharged 
from  all  military  service,  and  located  as  farmers  on  land, 
each  having  fifty  acres  assigned  him. 

With  these  powers,  Colonel  Cotter  proceeded  to  Cork, 
caused  notices  to  be  affixed  to  chapel  doors,  and  instructed 
clergymen  to  give  it  out  from  the  altars,  in  different  parts 
of  the  south  of  Ireland.  The  notifications  were  received 
with  great  joy  by  the  people  : the  exceeding  distress  of  the 
poor  peasantry  of  that  part  of  Ireland,  as  well  from  exube- 
rant population  as  want  of  employment,  is  notorious,  and 
they  were  eager  to  avail  themselves  of  the  proposal.  Land 
was  the  great  object  of  their  competition  at  home,  and  they 
who  thought  themselves  fortunate  in  obtaining  a few  acres 
at  an  exorbitant  rent  in  Ireland,  were  transported  at  the 
idea  of  receiving  a grant  of  fifty  acres,  rent  free,  in  Brazil. 
Many,  therefore,  as  they  told  me,  sold  their  farms  at  home, 
and  laid  out  the  small  portion  of  money  they  could  raise,  in 
purchasing  agricultural  implements,  conceiving  that  their 
military  service  was  to  be  merely  local,  and  would  no  more 
prevent  their  attending  to  their  land,  than  if  they  were 
members  of  yeomanry  corps  in  their  own  country.  Among 
them  were  mechanics,  who  looked  forward  to  exercise  their 
calling  to  advantage  in  Rio,  and  had  brought  out  the  imple- 
ments of  their  trade  ; and  among  them  certainly  were  many^ 
whose  idle  habits  led  them  to  prefer  a military  life,  and  were 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


159 


ready  to  engage  as  soldiers,  careless  of  the  terms  of  their 
service.  Of  these  descriptions,  two  thousand  four  hundred 
persons  were  collected,  some  of  them,  as  was  to  be  expect- 
ed, of  indifferent  characters  and  dissolute  manners  ; but  the 
majority  decent,  respectable  people,  who  brought  out  with 
them  their  wives  and  families,  and  who  would  be  an  acquisi- 
tion to  any  country  as  settlers,  but  particularly  to  Brazil. 

Everything  was  provided  for  their  accommodation  on 
leaving  their  own  country  ; the  ships  were  well  found,  stores 
and  provisions  of  a good  quality  were  not  wanting,  and  the 
people  thought  themselves  highly  fortunate  in  this  mode  of 
emigration.  They  had  been  long  expected  in  Brazil,  and 
it  was  natural  to  suppose  that  everything  would  have  been 
ready  for  their  reception  ; but  their  arrival  was  the  signal 
for  annoying  them,  and  that  system  of  petty  persecution 
commenced  which  roused  them  into  mutiny,  and  finally  ef- 
fected the  purposes  for  which  it  was  resorted  to,  by  driving 
them  from  the  country. 

The  minister  of  war  was  at  that  time  S.  Barbozo,  and 
from  his  subsequent  hostility  to  the  foreigners,  it  is  to  be 
presumed  he  was  the  instrument  of  their  first  annoyances, 
which  were  in  his  department.  When  the  transports  ar- 
rived, nothing  was  ready  for  the  accommodation  of  the  men. 
They  were  kept  for  three  or  four  days  on  board,  and  when 
at  length  they  were  landed,  they  were  thrust  into  dirty  empty 
barracks,  without  the  smallest  preparation  of  any  kind  for 
their  comforts  or  wants.  They  had  no  beds  to  sleep  on, 
not  even  a mat  to  keep  them  from  the  bare  ground,  which 
is  always  provided  for  Brazilian  soldiers.  This  comfortless 
state  was  still  increased  by  want  of  provisions  ; for  they  were 
kept  starving  for  two  days  without  any  distribution  of  ra- 
tions, and  when  at  length  it  was  made,  they  were  so  bad  in 
quality  that  the  men  could  not  eat  them,  but  sold  them  for 
a trifle  to  the  English  to  feed  their  horses  : they  were  also 
deficient  in  quantity,  and  so  irregularly  given,  that  they 
were  frequently  afterwards  fortyeight  hours  without  receiv- 
ing any  issue.  Many  of  them  contracted  fevers,*  and  other 
sickness,  from  privation  and  anxiety,  and  in  this  state  of  de- 
bility were  seen  crawling  about  the  streets  of  Rio.  Appli- 
cation was  made  to  the  Brazilian  government  to  provide 
them  with  medicines  and  necessaries,  but  no  notice  was 
taken  ; and  they  would  have  perished  on  the  roads,  where 
they  were  sometimes  obliged  to  lie  down,  but  for  the  hu- 
manitv  of  Doctors  Coates  and  Dixon,  who  supplied  them 


160 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


with  medicine  from  their  own  pockets.  For  some  time  they 
received  no  pay  at  all,  and  when  at  length  it  wras  ordered, 
it  was  much  less  than  they  were  promised.* 

In  this  state  of  disappointment  and  growing  discontent, 
there  was  not  the  smallest  pains  taken  to  give  them  any 
habit  of  order  or  regularity.  They  remained  in  their  quar- 
ters, idle  and  unemployed,  dirty  and  neglected,  and  in  the 
same  clothes  in  which  they  had  arrived,  ragged  and  squalid, 
without  the  habits  or  appearance  of  common  decency. 
Sometimes  they  were  permitted  to  leave  their  barracks 
when  and  how  they  pleased,  and  to  remain  as  long  as  suit- 
ed their  humor,  in  the  vendas  or  public-houses.  Here  a 
cheap  and  ruinous  kind  of  rum  is  sold,  called  caxas,  and  in 
this  they  were  permitted,  if  not  encouraged,  to  indulge 
freely.  Thus  situated,  and  highly  susceptible  of  excite- 
ment, an  engine  of  irritation  was  applied  to  them,  of  an  an- 
noyance so  intolerable,  that  no  person,  under  any  circum- 
stance, could  bear  it  patiently. 

The  miserable  slaves  of  Rio,  employed  only  as  beasts  of 
burden  in  the  streets,  are,  of  all  classes  of  the  human  race, 
by  far  the  most  abandoned  and  degraded.  Used  merely  as 
inferior  animals,  without  the  smallest  reference  to  their  be- 
ing endowed  with  the  faculty  of  reason,  they  are  driven  all 
day,  and  turned  loose  in  the  evening  ; and  by  a strange  in- 
consistency, allowed  the  most  licentious  and  unrestrained 
habits.  They  go  along  the  streets  frequently  drunk,  shout- 
ing, hallooing,  and  fighting  ; and  when  one  considers  that 
there  are  fifty  or  sixty  thousand  of  this  class,  in  a large  and 
licentious  city,  and  the  great  majority  of  its  population,  it  is 
fearful  to  contemplate  the  consequences  which  may  arise, 
some  time  or  other,  from  their  ferocious  passions.  Yet 
these  were  the  instruments  used  to  goad  and  irritate  the 
strangers.  They  first  insulted  them  whenever  they  met 
them,  by  calling  them  white  slaves,  u escravos  brancos,5> 
and  they  pointed  to  their  rags  and  dirt,  as  a proof  of  their 
being  not  so  good,  or  so  well  treated,  as  themselves. 
Whenever  they  appeared  outside  their  barracks,  they  were 
attacked  in  this  way,  and  constant  skirmishes  and  riots  oc- 
curred between  individuals  and  parties  on  both  sides.  In 
these  encounters,  if  the  Irish  officers  interfered,  and  seized 


* I am  told  it  amounted  to  seven  vintems,  which,  at  the  rate  of  ex- 
change when  I was  at  Rio,  would  not  average  at  sixpence,  and  they 
were  promised  one  shilling. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


161 


any  slaves,  who  they  knew  were  the  aggressors  and  com- 
menced the  disturbance,  to  deliver  them  to  the  police,  they 
were  detained  merely  a few  hours,  and  then  liberated  to  re- 
peat the  offence  ; if,  on  the  contrary,  any  of  the  strangers 
were  complained  of,  they  were  committed  to  the  dungeons 
of  the  fortresses,  and  if  not  closely  confined,  were  dragged 
out  only  to  be  worked  as  galley  slaves  ; and  in  this  way, 
respectable  people  have  told  me,  they  often  saw  them  fet- 
tered in  the  same  chain  with  black  slave-felons,  as  if  it  was 
the  system  to  degrade  them  to  that  rank,  and  not  suffer  them 
to  be  held  in  higher  consideration. 

In  this  state  of  things,  a body  of  the  Irish,  quartered  in  the 
barracks  of  Pray  a Vermelha,  were  marched  to  the  Campo 
d’AccIamacao,  and  in  their  way  it  was  necessary  to  pass 
the  Carioca,  a fountain  where  a large  collection  of  blacks 
continually  attend  to  draw  water.  The  moment  they  ap- 
peared, an  immediate  insurrection  of  the  blacks  took  place, 
and  an  attack  was  made  on  these  unarmed  men,  quietly 
passing  through  the  streets  ; they  repelled  it  with  sticks 
and  fists,  and  the  blacks  fled  : but  from  that  time  no  recruit 
could  appear  in  any  part  of  the  town,  without  being  assault- 
ed. Even  the  officers  failed  to  preserve  that  respect  for 
their  rank,  which  would  be  secured  to  any  others;  they 
were  the  indiscriminate  object  of  attack  by  any  slaves  they 
met,  as  if  the  general  system  was  to  degrade  and  exasperate 
the  whole  corps  without  distinction.  In  the  Rua  dos  Bar- 
bonios  is  a barrack,  near  a fountain,  attended  by  blacks,  and 
here  the  parties  came  into  constant  collision.  The  blacks, 
who  seemed,  as  it  were,  trained  to  insult  the  Irish,  constant- 
ly attacked  the  sentries,  and  even  climbed  up  the  windows, 
and  assaulted,  with  stones  and  other  missiles,  those  who 
were  inside  quietly  sleeping  in  their  quarters.  The  conse- 
quence was  a very  serious  riot,  which  lasted  two  days,  and 
the  loss  of  some  lives.  In  these  conflicts,  the  people  of  the 
town  looked  on  with  satisfaction,  and  were  frequently  seen 
setting  on  the  negroes,  as  I have  seen  Turks  hallooing  their 
swarms  of  dogs  at  Christian  passengers. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  when  a fearful  retaliation 
seemed  at  hand,  and  threatened  the  whole  town  with  de- 
struction. The  Irish  had  been  about  half  a year  in  the 
country,  and  they  still  remained  in  the  same  state  of  neglect, 
contempt,  and  insubordination.  A few,  indeed,  who  had 
entered  as  grenadiers,  had  received  clothes,  and  some  par- 
tial improvement  had  been  attempted  in  the  rations  ; but 
14* 


162 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  great  body  remained  the  same,  the  causes  of  discontent 
every  day  increasing.  The  state  of  the  German  troops 
was  little  better.  They  complained  that  the  promises  made 
to  them  were  not  fulfilled,  that  their  pay  was  embezzled  • 
and  the  whole  only  wanted  some  spark  to  set  the  inflammable 
materials  in  a blaze.  They  were  distributed  in  three  large 
barracks  in  different  parts  of  the  town  : the  Germans,  in 
the  Praya  Vermelha,  near  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  at  one 
extremity  of  the  city,  and  at  the  barrack  of  S.  Christovao, 
at  the  other  ; and  the  Irish,  nearly  midway  between  both, 
at  the  Campo  d’Acclamacao,  towards  the  centre  of  the 
town. 

On  the  9th  of  June,  1828,  as  an  alfares,  or  ensign,  was 
returning  from  his  rounds,  after  the  ave-maria,  or  sun-set, 
he  was  met  by  a German  soldier,  who  refused  to  take  off 
his  bonnet  as  he  passed.  The  alfares  ordered  him  into  con- 
finement, and  he  was  sentenced  to  receive  fifty  lashes  for 
insubordination.  A representation  was  made  that  he  had 
been  a well-conducted  man,  since  the  formation  of  the 
corps  ; but  this  did  not  avail,  and  he  was  led  out  to  under- 
go his  sentence  in  the  square  of  the  barrack  of  S.  Christo- 
vao. He  demanded  to  be  tried  by  a court-martial,  and  re- 
fused to  take  off  his  jacket  ; but  he  was  ordered  to  be 
seized  and  bound,  and  the  jacket  cut  from  his  back  ; his  sen- 
tence was  quintupled,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  were  order- 
ed instead  of  fifty.  He  received  two  hundred  and  ten  of 
his  punishment,  but  the  soldiers  now  became  impatient,  and, 
actuated  by  one  spirit,  began  to  stamp  with  their  feet,  call- 
ing out  not  to  kill  the  man  ; and  as  the  officer  still  persist- 
ed to  inflict  the  full  punishment,  the  whole  corps  burst  into 
a spontaneous  mutiny,  released  the  prisoner,  proceeded  with 
shouts  and  menaces  to  the  palace  in  their  neighborhood,  and 
demanded  to  see  the  emperor.  He  refused  to  present  him- 
self ; but  gave  them  to  understand  if  they  had  any  complaint 
to  make,  they  should  send  a deputation  of  two  or  three,  and 
he  would  listen  to  them  ; and  they  returned  to  their  barracks. 
Meantime  the  Irish,  at  the  Campo  d’Acclamacao,  hearing 
what  had  happened,  proceeded  to  S.  Christovao,  some  by 
land  and  some  in  boats,  to  the  amount  of  fifty  or  sixty  ; and, 
resolving  now  to  make  a common  cause  with  the  Germans, 
encouraged  them  by  shouts  and  acclamations  to  persevere. 
The  mutiny  now  assumed  a most  alarming  aspect  : the 
magazine  of  ammunition  was  forced  open,  the  quarters  of 
the  officers  were  attacked,  the  houses  of  the  major  and 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


163 


quarter-master  were  plundered,  and  several  officers  were 
pursued  and  just  escaped  with  their  lives. 

On  the  next  day,  the  news  of  the  mutiny  at  S.  Christo- 
vao  was  received  at  the  Pray  a Vermelha.  The  Germans 
quartered  here  had  just  returned  from  Pernambuco,  and 
were  in  a state  of  irritation  little  less  violent  than  their  com- 
rades. It  had  been  the  custom  to  stop  the  pay  of  the  sol- 
diers, as  in  the  French  army  in  the  time  of  Napoleon,  as  a 
punishment  for  offences,  and  in  this  way,  under  various  pre- 
texts, the  officers  pocketed  the  greater  part  of  it.  The  ma- 
jor, whose  name  was  Teola,  was  a man  of  low  extraction 
and  bad  character,  and  was  greatly  detested  by  the  men. 
He  was  an  Italian,  and  had  been  waiter  at  the  Hotel  du 
Nord,  in  the  Rue  Direita.  It  is  said  that  his  wife,  who  was 
a comely  person,  had  attracted  notice,  and  he  was  immedi- 
ately raised  from  his  humble  station  to  the  commission  which 
he  held  in  the  German  regiment.  He  had  been  long  ac- 
cused  of  embezzling  their  pay,  and  frequent  complaints 
were  made  ; but  his  influence  in  high  quarters  had  hitherto 
baffled  all  applications,  and  the  soldiers  were  now  deter- 
mined to  take  into  their  own  hands  that  redress,  which  they 
could  not  obtain.  As  the  prejudice  against  him  was  known 
to  be  very  strong,  he  was  advised  not  to  appear  on  parade 
this  day,  where  some  violence  was  likely  to  break  out. 
He,  however,  disregarded  the  caution,  and  his  appearance 
was  the  signal  for  a general  mutiny.  He  was  attacked  by 
the  soldiers,  and  fled  for  refuge  to  Colonel  Macgregor,  who 
would  not,  it  is  said,  but  who  probably  could  not,  protect 
him.  He  then  ran  to  make  his  escape  over  the  walls  of 
the  barracks,  but  he  was  overtaken  and  dragged  down  ; and 
while  lying  on  the  ground,  he  was  stabbed  by  the  bayonets 
of  the  sentinels,  and  crushed  to  death  with  heaps  of  large 
stones  cast  on  him  by  the  exasperated  soldiers.  Two  other 
officers,  who  attempted  to  interfere  for  him,  were  severely 
wounded.  It  does  not  appear  that  the  Irish  here  took  any 
part  in  the  assassination. 

The  body  of  the  major  was  brought  to  be  buried  in  the 
cemetery,  and  the  two  wounded  officers  to  be  received  into 
the  hospital  of  the  Misericordia,  and  a rumor  was  now  indus- 
triously circulated  through  Rio,  that  the  German  regiments 
were  marching  in  from  both  extremities  of  the  city,  to  join 
the  Irish  at  the  Campo  d’Acclamacao,  and  then  proceed 
to  bum  and  plunder  the  town.  It  was  now  that  the  sangui- 
nary policy  of  those  who  were  hostile  to  the  Europeans,  be- 


164 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ganto  display  itself.  The  Brazilian  troops  were  immedi- 
ately ordered  under  arms,  and  the  minister  of  war  sent  di- 
rections to  the  commandant,  the  Conde  de  Rio  Pardo,  u to 
destroy  every  man  ; to  give  no  quarter  ; but  to  exterminate 
the  whole  of  the  strangers  and  lest  the  brave  and  humane 

commandant  should  not  execute  these  orders,  an  expedient 
was  resorted  to,  as  terrible  to  others  as  it  was  dangerous  to 
themselves — that  wms,  a license  to  the  Moleques,  or  blacks, 
and  the  rest  of  the  rabble,  to  take  up  arms.  I had  seen  the 
frightful  effects  of  this  among  the  Turks  ; but  the  idea  of 
fifty  or  sixty  thousand  black  slaves,  and  such  slaves  in  a 
state  of  high  excitement,  armed  with  knives  and  daggers, 
let  loose  on  a city,  was  an  experiment  at  which  humanity 
shudders. 

A large  crowd  of  them  was  soon  collected  in  the  Campo 
d’Acclamacao,  and  the  tumult  immediately  commenced  with 
the  Irish.  These  latter  had  now  become  infuriate  like  the 
Germans — had  attacked  the  police  barracks  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  having  seized  the  arms,  began  to  fire  in  all  direc- 
tions. They  then  broke  open  the  vendas,  and  many  of  them 
having  drank  caxas  to  excess,  burst  into  private  houses,  and 
committed  great  excesses.  A regular  warfare  soon  ensued 
between  them  and  the  armed.  Moleques,  joined  by  a num- 
ber of  Brazilians  of  the  lowest  description,  and  the  Campo 
and  the  streets  adjoining  were  filled  with  dead  and  wounded 
bodies. 

The  Brazilian  government  now  applied  to  the  French 
and  English  ministers  for  a force  of  marines,  from  the  ships 
of  war  of  their  respective  nations  lying  in  the  harbor,  which 
was  readily  granted.  The  French  were  immediately  landed 
at  the  trem,  and  the  English  at  the  arsenal,  and  were  prepar- 
ed to  protect  the  city,  if  any  attempt  should  be  made  against 
it.  In  the  mean  time,  a battalion  of  the  regiment  of  militia 
of  the  Minas  Geraes,  some  cavalry,  and  a field  -piece,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Campo,  to  restore  order.  They  did  not  act 
with  the  furious  inhumanity  recommended  by  the  minister  of 
war.  . They  first  argued  with  the  insurgents,  then  fired 
blank  cartridges,  and  at  length  had  recourse  to  ball  as  the 
last  expedient.  The  insurgents,  had  no  arms  of  their  own, 
and  used  only  those  they  had  wrested  from  the  police, 
amounting  to  fifty  or  sixty  muskets.  Their  ammunition  was 

* Mata  tudo  Sr.  Conde,  nao  da  quartel  a ninguem,  mata  esses  estran- 
geiros. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


165 


exhausted,  and  those  whom  insult  and  intoxication  had  driv- 
en to  madness,  had  returned  to  their  senses,  and  retired  to 
their  barracks.  The  Germans  quietly  submitted,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  12th  of  June,  everything  was  tranquil,  after 
three  days  of  intense  anxiety. 

While  the  conduct  of  the  military  was  humane  and  praise- 
worthy, that  of  the  armed  rabble  was  marked  by  the  most 
atrocious  ferocity.  The  Moleques  rushed  on  every  for- 
eigner they  met  in  the  neighborhood,  with  their  knives,  and 
butchered  them  with  the  most  savage  mutilation  ; and  some, 
I am  told,  were  hunted  down,  and  then  torn  limb  from  limb, 
by  the  bloodhounds  that  pursued  them.  Several  of  the  Irish, 
who  were  artisans,  industriously  exercised  their  trades,  and 
were  doing  well  at  Rio.  One  of  them,  a tailor,  was  return- 
ing to  his  barracks,  with  a bundle  of  clothes  under  his  arm, 
entirely  ignorant  of  the  insurrection  that  had  taken  place. — 
He  was  met  by  two  Moleques  in  a street  leading  to  the 
Campo,  who  rushed  at  him  with  their  facas,  and  having  stab- 
bed him  in  several  places,  ripped  up  his  belly,  and  left  him, 
with  his  bowels  hanging  out,  weltering  on  the  pavement. — 
One  fellow,  a corpulent  mulatto,-  of  a very  ferocious  as- 
pect, was  pointed  out  to  me  afterwards  at  the  butchery  of 
S.  Luzie,  where  he  has  now  some  appropriate  employment. 
He  was  seen,  after  tranquillity  was  restored,  brandishing  a 
bloody  sabre  over  his  head,  and  boasting  it  was  stained 
with  the  blood  of  five  foreigners,  whom  he  had  killed. 

The  number  of  persons  who  lost  their  lives  is  variously 
stated  at  from  sixty  to  a hundred  ; and  about  twice  that 
number  wounded.  Many  respectable  Brazilians',  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  Campo  d’Acclamacao,  were  killed,  in  defend- 
ing their  houses  and  properties  when  the  insurgents  burst 
them  open.  Many  of  the  insurgents  lay  down  in  the  streets 
and  fell  asleep,  overcome  by  fatigue  and  intoxication  ; and 
in  that  state  of  insensibility  were  stabbed  by  the  Moleques. 
As  this  disposition  for  blood  continued  after  the  cause  was 
past,  and  the  excitement  over,  it  was  found  necessary  to  is- 
sue, on  the  13th  of  June,  a second  edital,  prohibiting  any 
person  from  carrying  arms,  but  especially  slaves,  after  the 
edital  was  posted,  under  severe  punishment.  They  had 
been  most  imprudently  called  on  to  take  them  up  para  salvcir 
a patria , and  it  was  found  imperatively  necessary  to  compel 
them  to  lay  them  down,  for  the  same  reason. 

Of  2,400  Irish  who  had  been  invited,  and  arrived  in  Bra- 
zil, not  more  than  200  were  concerned  in  the  insurrection  ; 


166 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


and  these  were  generally  young  men,  totally  neglected,  and 
left  to  themselves,  to  follow  the  impulse  of  any  passion  ex- 
cited in  them.  They  were  without  officers  or  arms,  yet 
they  caused  much  terror  and  anxiety,  in  a large  and  popu- 
lous city,  for  three  days.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to 
send  them  all  back  to  their  own  country  ; and  the  object  of 
those  who  labored  to  bring  that  end  about,  was  completely 
answered.  They  were  immediately  embarked,  and  placed 
on  board  the  ships  of  war  in  the  harbor,  till  transports  could 
be  provided  for  them.  The  emperor  himself  seemed  very 
well  disposed  towards  them  ; and  I am  told  by  those  who 
witnessed  the  fact,  that  he  shed  tears  of  anxiety  and  vexa- 
tion, when  he  heard  the  state  into  which  they  were  degrad- 
ed. It  had  been  his  custom  frequently  to  attend  divine  ser- 
vice, when  it  was  performed  for  the  Irish  at  the  Praya  Ver- 
melha,  where  he  freely  knelt  down  amongst  them.  His 
condescension,  however,  was  suspected.  An  absurd  rumor 
had  been  circulated,  that  if  this  ceremony  was  performed 
three  times,  they  were  bound  to  him,  as  soldiers,  for  unlim- 
ited service.  On  the  third  Sunday  none  but  the  officers 
attended — the  men  all  disappeared — a strong  proof  of  their 
repugnance  to  such  an  engagement,  and  their  determina- 
tion to  resist  it.  He  now  gave  every  direction  for  their 
ample  accommodation,  on  their  return  home  ; and  Mr.  Gor- 
don, the  British  minister,  and  the  English  admiral,  had  pow- 
er in  his  name  to  supply  them  with  every  necessary. 

On  this  occasion  it  was  expedient  to  collect  them  all,  and 
it  was  discovered  that  many  of  them  had  been  arrested  and 
confined  in  various  prisons.  Mr.  Aston,  the  Secretary  of 
Legation  to  the  British  Mission,  with  that  promptness  and 
humanity  which  every  one  who  knows  him  will  give  him 
credit  for,  immediately  applied  to  the  proper  authorities  to 
have  them  found  out  ; but  so  little  interest  did  they  take  in 
the  life  or  liberty  of  those  foreigners,  that  they  could  give 
no  information  about  them.  At  length  he  found  thirty  of 
them  confined  in  the  dungeon  of  the  fortress  of  Villegagnon. 
On  one  occasion,  the  whole  of  the  officers  had  been  arrested, 
and  shut  up  in  the  cells  of  the  prisons  in  the  different  islands. 
After  eighteen  or  twenty  days’  incarceration,  however,  they 
were  liberated,  and  never  could  learn  why  they  had  been 
confined  ; but  numbers  of  inferior  rank  remained  behind, 
till  they  were  altogether  forgotten.  Such  was  the  case  of 
these  poor  men.  When  they  emerged  from  these  cata- 
combs, they  were  in  the  most  miserable  state  of  destitution 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


167 


and  disease,  their  bodies  ulcerated  with  sores  and  covered 
with  vermin,  and  their  skins  so  raw  and  tender  from  putres- 
cency  and  mortification,  that  when  it  was  necessary  to  clothe 
them  for  the  sake  of  decency,  to  enable  them  again  to  ap- 
pear, they  could  not  bear  the  painful  touch  of  any  covering. 

They  were  a fine  body  of  young  men,  and  of  good  char- 
acter. They  had  been  called  on  to  take  the  military  oath, 
but  they  refused.  They  affirmed  they  had  come  out  as  set- 
tlers ; if  they  were  located  as  such,  they  had  no  objection 
to  be  enrolled  as  militia,  learn  military  duty,  and  be  ready 
to  turn  out  to  defend  their  own  or  any  other  part  of  the 
country  invaded  : but  they  persisted  in  refusing  to  take  the 
oath  tendered  to  them  as  mere  soldiers,  for  unlimited  ser- 
vice. For  this  offence  they  were  represented  as  mutineers, 
and  thrown  at  once  into  these  dismal  dungeons,  where  they 
had  remained  totally  neglected,  and  must  in  a short  time 
have  perished  in  a state  of  putridity,  had  they  not  been  re- 
lieved by  the  humane  and  timely  interference  of  Mr.  Aston. 
Two  hundred  and  fifty  were  embarked  in  the  Moro  Castle, 
on  the  3d  July,  1828,  and  sailed  for  Ireland.  The  Phoebe 
followed  with  150  more,  with  the  Highlander,  and  a Swed- 
ish ship,  carrying  in  all  1400  persons  back  to  their  native 
land.  It  was  industriously  given  out,  that  many  of  these 
persons  had  carried  off  plate  and  other  valuables  from  the 
houses  they  had  plundered,  and  a search  was  made  among 
their  boxes  and  trunks.  Nothing  was  found  to  justify  the 
suspicion,  and  then  it  was  said,  that  to  avoid  detection  they 
had  cast  all  these  valuables  into  the  sea. 

About  400  were  left  behind,  engaged  in  different  employ- 
ments. A body  of  them,  to  the  amount  of  220  persons, 
forming  101  families,  were  conveyed  to  Bahia,  and  located 
at  Taporoa,  in  the  comarca  of  Ilheos,  where  they  formed  a 
colony,  directed  by  a commissioner  appointed  to  regulate 
their  affairs.  It  was  the  only  portion  of  the  emigrants  with 
whom  good  faith  was  observed  ; and  it  appears,  from  the 
report  of  the  Viscount  Camamu,  president  of  the  assembly 
of  the  province,  that  they  were  deserving  of  every  care 
and  attention.  Several  who  remained  at  Rio,  I afterwards 
met  and  conversed  with.  They  were  doing  well  ; and  the 
whole,  had  they  been  properly  encouraged,  would  have 
done  the  same.  Some  men  from  Waterford  and  Lismore 
were  engaged  in  a quarry  in  the  rear  of  our  residence,  pre- 
paring blocks  of  granite  for  building,  and  by  their  industry 
and  good  conduct  were  earning  five  patacs  (about  seven 


168 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


shillings)  a day,  and  making  a comfortable  independence. 
Another  family,  of  the  name  of  Cook,  from  the  county  of 
Tipperary,  had  been  recommended  to  Messrs.  Marsh  and 
Watson,  who  located  them  on  a farm  in  the  Organ  Moun- 
tains, where  I visited  them  with  Mr.  Watson.  The  farm 
was  in  the  depth  of  a forest,  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  with- 
in the  recesses  of  the  mountain.  The  way  led  through  the 
wildest  scenery  ; and  on  the  bank  of  a river,  in  the  centre 
of  a forest,  we  found  these  colonists.  They  had  built  a large 
and  comfortable  house  with  a rustic  portico,  and  thatched 
it  very  neatly  with  palm  branches,  whose  regular  fronds 
formed  a tasty  roof,  the  stems  and  pinnate  leaves  of  which 
were  very  elegantly  disposed  in  the  thatch.  On  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  which  we  crossed  by  two  trees  foriping  a 
rustic  bridge,  was  a large  shed  for  cattle,  and  other  con- 
veniences ; and  rising  up  the  hill  was  an  extensive  planta- 
tion of  coffee,  behind  which,  descending  into  a glen,  was  a 
rich  field  of  Indian  corn  in  high  health,  with  gourds,  mandi- 
oca,  and  a variety  of  other  produce  of  Brazilian  agriculture. 
On  our  return,  the  good  woman  had  prepared  for  us  a plen- 
tiful dish  of  bacon  and  egg s,  with  fried  cakes  of  maize  ; 
and  our  entertainment  concluded  with  whisky,  which  our 
host  had  contrived  to  distil  from  his  coffee  plantation.  When 
I contemplated  this  comfortable  house  and  abundant  farm, 
rescued  from  the  heart  of  a Brazilian  forest,  cultivated  by 
persons  who  in  their  own  country  could  not  make  out  a 
scanty  livelihood  in  a miserable  hovel,  I could  not  help  feel- 
ing the  deepest  regret,  that  2400,  who  had  left  their  homes, 
were  not,  as  they  might  have  been,  so  located.  It  would 
have  abstracted  so  many  individuals  from  an  overflowing 
people  perishing  from  want,  and  added  a valuable  popula- 
tion to  a country,  where  millions  of  fertile  acres  are  lying 
waste  for  lack  of  hands  to  cultivate  them. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Irish  who  returned  home,  were 
in  a disabled  state.  Hardship,  wounds,  privation,  and  sick- 
ness had  affected  them  more  or  less  ; but  the  ailment  under 
which  they  principally  labored  was  lameness.  Not  furnish- 
ed with  shoes,  nor  able  to  provide  them,  their  feet  were 
attacked  with  the  bichu,  or  insect  of  the  country,  which 
burrowed  in  myriads  in  their  naked  feet,  and  caused  the 
most  frightful  ulcerations.  Many  of  the  men,  therefore,  are 
lame  beggars  about  the  streets,  or  incurables  in  the  hospit- 
als of  Cork.  Many  who  had  left  comfortable  farms,  are 
reduced  to  common  laborers  ; and  of  all  who  returned  home, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


169 


there  is  not  one,  perhaps,  who  is  not  now  enduring  want 
and  misery. 

The  Germans,  as  they  were  regularly  enrolled,  were 
subject  to  martial  law  as  mutineers  ; and  the  ringleaders  in 
the  riot  were  tried,  and  some  convicted.  One  of  them  was 
shortly  after  executed.  On  the  formation  of  the  German 
corps,  as  they  were  generally  Lutherans,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Crane,  British  chaplain  at  Rio,  officiated  for  them  ; and 
when  this  man  was  ordered  for  execution,  he  was  attended, 
by  order  of  the  emperor,  by  the  chaplain,  to  prepare  him 
for  death.  Mr.  Crane,  from  whom  I derived  some  of  the 
foregoing  statements,  informed  me  he  was  a tall,  vigorous 
young  man,  six  feet  high,  of  singularly  determined  charac- 
ter. He  told  him  he  had  neglected  his  early  religious  im- 
pressions, but  did  not  then  wish  to  recall  them  ; and  begged 
•him  not  to  press  him  on  the  subject,  as  his  only  wish  was  to 
die  like  a soldier,  and  such  considerations  as  he  proposed, 
would  only  disturb  him.  A Catholic  clergyman  was  sent 
to  him  with  no  better  success.  He  dismissed  him  at  once, 
telling  him  to  go  and  reform  his  master,  who  more  wanted 
it.  He  walked  to  the  Campo  d’Acclamacao,  were  he  was 
executed,  with  a pipe  in  his  mouth,  frequently  turning  round 
and  conversing  with  the  greatest  indifference  with  his  com- 
rades, who  were  to  shoot  him,  and  who  followed  immediately 
behind  him.  The  only  mark  of  interest  or  concern  he 
evinced  on  any  subject,  was  with  respect  to  the  place  of 
his  burial.  He  asked  where  he  was  to  be  laid,  and  he  was 
answered,  in  the  Misericordia.  As  this  is  the  cemetery 
attached  to  the  hospital,  and  the  great  receptacle  for  negroes, 
he  expressed  a strong  repugnance  to  be  buried  among  them, 
and  confounded  with  the  slaves,  who  had  behaved  in  such  a 
manner  to  his  comrades.  He  therefore  earnestly  requested 
permission  to  be  buried  in  the  English  burying-ground, 
which  Mr.  Crane  promised,  and  he  then  died  with  the  most 
perfect  unconcern.  His  regiment  was  sent  off  to  the  south. 

Thus  ended  a project  for  the  gradual  introduction  of 
Europeans  into  Brazil,  from  which  much  good  was  reasona- 
bly expected.  To  form  a counterpoise  to  the  fearful  supe- 
riority of  the  slave  population,  and  increase  as  much  as  pos- 
sible the  number  of  white  inhabitants  ; to  colonize  the  im- 
mense tracts  of  fertile  land  now  lying  waste,  and  cultivate 
the  soil  with  the  vigorous  .arms  of  freemen,  bringing  with 
them  the  lights  and  improvements  of  Europe,  instead  of  the 
enormous  importations  annually  of  blacks  from  Africa,  was 


170  NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 

certainly  the  object  of  an  enlightened  policy.  But  the  vig- 
ilant  suspicion  of  the  people,  ever  on  the  watch  to  guard 
against  any  supposed  instruments  of  despotism,  and  the  uni- 
versal and  inveterate  prejudices  still  existing  against  stran- 
gers, rendered  the  measure  highly  unpopular  in  Brazil.  It 
was  supposed  that  the  difference  of  the  religion  of  the  Ger- 
mans had  some  influence  in  increasing  this  prejudice,  but 
the  similarity  of  that  of  the  Irish  did  not  procure  them  more 
favor.  The  Aurora,  the  Astraea,  and  other  genuine  na- 
tional papers,  teemed  with  equal  invectives  against  both, 
talked  boastfully  of  u delivering  themselves"  from  the  Ger- 
man and  Irish  invasion,”  and  studiously  avoided  all  notice 
of  the  French  and  English  marines  who  landed  to  assist 
them. 

The  emperor,  however,  acknowledged  their  services  in 
a flattering  manner,  by  paying  a complimentary  visit  on  the 
occasion  to  the  British  fleet.  They  were  drawn  up  in  line 
to  receive  him  ; and  he,  with  the  young  queen  of  Portu- 
gal and  a numerous  cortege,  repaired  on  board  the  admi- 
ral’s ship,  the  Ganges,  on  the  20th  of  June.  The  imperial 
standard  was  hoisted  at  the  mast-head,  and  the  band  play- 
ed the  national  and  constitutional  hymn,  composed  by  the 
emperor  himself.  He  examined  with  great  attention  the 
different  parts  of  the  ship  ; and  when  their  uses  were  ex- 
plained to  him,  he  said,  u J’en  profiterai.”  He  saw  the 
crew  at  dinner,  and  tasted  their  soup,  which  he  pronounc- 
ed to  be  u bien  bon,”  but  he  only  smelled  to  their  grog. — 
In  passing  between  decks,  he  remarked  some  thirty-two 
pounders  lying  in  the  racks,  and  stooping  down  in  a care- 
less manner,  he  laid  his  hand  on  the  summit  of  one  of  them, 
raised  it  with  apparent  ease,  and  having  examined  it,  de- 
posited it  again  without  apparent  effort.  This  was  consid- 
ered an  extraordinary  effort  of  muscular  strength,  as  his 
fingers  are  short,  and  he  could  only  grasp  a small  portion 
of  the  surface.  He  was  entertained  in  the  state-room,  the 
admiral  and  post-captains  attending  on  him,  and  he  and  the 
young  queen  alone  sitting  down.  Two  of  the  admiral’s 
sons,  young  boys,  waited  as  pages  on  Dona  Maria,  and  the 
little  group  excited  great  interest.  During  the  repast,  the 
emperor  gave  the  health  of  George  the  Fourth  ; and  the 
admiral  in  return  gave  that  of  the  emperor  and  the  queen, 
each  of  which  was  followed  by  a salutation  of  sixty-three 
guns.  On  his  return,  he  insisted  on  taking  the  admiral  in 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


171 


his  own  barge,  and  expressed  himself  highly  gratified  by 
his  visit. 

The  emperor  was  exceedingly  displeased  with  his  minis- 
try for  their  conduct  in  this  unfortunate  mutiny.  He  con- 
sidered them  particularly  culpable,  first  in  exciting  it,  and 
then  in  not  taking  immediate  measures  to  suppress  it  ; but 
the  principal  object  of  his  anger  was  the  minister  at  war,  for 
lending  himself  as  an  instrument  to  promote  the  designs  of 
those  who  disliked  the  introduction  of  the  foreign  troops, 
and  had  used  such  means  to  get  rid  of  them.  He,  there- 
fore, directly  ordered  this  minister  to  surrender  his  seals  of 
office.  The  rest,  however,  made  common  cause  with  their 
colleague,  and  declared,  if  he  resigned,  they  would  do  so 
too.  The  emperor,  on  this  occasion,  showed  his  prompt 
and  determined  character.  The  whole  cabinet  were  on 
one  day  dismissed,  and  on  the  next  a new  one  was  appoint- 
ed. 


CHAP.  XIV. 

Peace  with  Buenos  Ayres. — Disappointment  and  Vexation  of  the  People  at  Rio. — 
Disastrous  Effects  of  the  War. — Treatment  of  Foreign  Officers  in  the  Service. — 
Death  of  Dom  John. — Emperor  abdicates  in  favor  of  his  Daughter. — Rapid  Compo- 
sition of  the  Portuguese  Constitution. — British  Ambassador  the  Bearer  ofit  to  Eu- 
rope.— Birth  and  Baptism  of  Dona  Maria,  and  why  so  called. — Marriage  with  her 
Uncle  contemplated  at  her  Birth. — Conduct  of  Dom  Miguel  in  Portugal. — Revives 
the  obsolete  Cortes  of  Lamego — Abolishes  the  New  Constitution,  and  is  proclaimed 
King. — Anger  of  Dom  Pedro,  and  curious  Indications  ofit. — Sends  Dona  Maria  to 
Vienna. — She  stops  at  Gibraltar,  and  proceeds  to  England.— Treated  as  Queen,  but 
her  Ambassador  not  acknowledged,  and  why. — Situation  of  Brazil  on  our  Arrival. 


Another  result  also  was  connected  with  this  affair,  of  real 
and  important  benefit  to  Brazil.  The  alarming  mutiny  of 
the  troops  intended  to  be  employed,  and  their  total  disorga- 
nization, at  once  deprived  government  of  a resource  of  men, 
which  they  now  began  to  find  it  difficult  to  supply  from  the 
exhausted  country,  from  which  almost  all  its  agricultural 
hands  had  been  already  abstracted  ; and  at  length  this  pet- 
ty warfare,  the  most  unnecessary  and  unintelligible,  as  well 
as  the  most  ruinous  to  all  concerned,  was  ended.  Negotia- 
tions were  again  opened,  under  the  auspices  of  his  Excel- 
lency, the  British  minister,  and  both  parties  at  length 


172 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


agreed  to  acknowledge  the  independence  of  the  Banda  Ori- 
ental, and  the  troops  of  Brazil  and  of  Buenos  Ayres  were 
mutually  to  evacuate  the  country.  It  was  agreed,  also, 
that  a provisional  government  should  be  formed  by  the  peo- 
ple themselves,  and  a constitution  drawn  up,  to  be  submitted 
to  both  states,  for  their  approbation,  before  it  was  sworn  to  ; 
and  when  so  ratified,  to  be  supported  by  them,  for  five 
years,  against  any  attempt  to  alter  it  ; but,  after  that  period, 
the  people  of  the  new  Cis-Platine  state  to  be  left  in  full  and 
free  enjoyment  of  their  independence,  to  manage  all  their 
own  affairs  without  foreign  interference. 

This  termination  to  the  war  was  received  with  universal 
disappointment  and  discontent  in  Brazil.  The  Banda  Ori- 
ental, though  originally  Spanish,  and  unjustly  seized  on  by 
the  Portuguese,  had  yet  been  incorporated  as  a province 
with  the  Brazilian  empire,  and  made  one  of  the  nineteen 
stars  that  glittered  in  the  imperial  arms.  The  people  had 
not  forgotten  the  emperor’s  declaration,  that  the  war  must 
continue  till  it  should  be  recognized  as  an  integral  part  of 
the  empire  ; and  in  that  determination  they  had  sustained  a 
ruinous  contest.  When  they  now  saw  this  object  abandon- 
ed, and  what  they  considered  their  territory  surrendered, 
they  could  not  conceal  their  mortification  and  disappoint- 
ment. The  petty  feelings  of  ambition  and  cupidity  inherent 
in  the  mind  of  man,  were  never,  perhaps,  more  strongly  ex- 
emplified than  on  this  occasion.  They  saw  the  prosperity 
of  the  country  totally  arrested,  its  resources  wasted,  its 
commerce  impeded,  its  agriculture  neglected,  and  its  pop- 
ulation diminishing,  in  this  absurd  contest  ; yet  every  in- 
dividual whom  I conversed  with,  would  rather  have  continu- 
ed to  suffer  all  these  evils,  than  that  a remote  and  small  frag- 
ment should  be  broken  from  their  vast  dominions,  which 
was  not  their  own,  and  which,  after  all,  was  not  to  form  any 
part  of  a rival  state,  but  to  become  independent  like  them- 
selves. Every  little  shopkeeper  in  Rio  thought  himself 
personally  degraded  by  the  dismemberment  of  his  empire, 
though  it  had  been  only  a few  years  in  existence  ; and  it 
added  another  motive  of  dislike  to  the  English,  under  whose 
auspices  the  treaty  of  peace  had  been  concluded. 

The  war  was  attended  with  many  disastrous  effects.  It 
checked  the  progress  of  population,  destroyed  the  improve- 
ments of  agriculture,  suspended  the  diffusion  of  useful  knowl- 
edge, retarded  the  formation  of  the  national  character,  and 
diverted  the  attention  of  the  nation  from  all  its  intended  use- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


173 


ful  projects  ; it  impoverished  the  country,  caused  a vast 
accumulation  of  national  debt,  abstracted  from  circulation 
all  the  valuable  metals,  and  substituted  a paper  and  copper 
currency,  and  even  that  last  at  an  immense  discount ; it 
involved  the  government  in  serious  disputes  with  friendly 
powers,  Great  Britain,  France,  and  the  United  States,  to 
whom  they  were  obliged  to  pay  considerable  sums  for  spolia- 
tion on  their  property,  by  the  absurd  attempt  at  blockading 
the  river  of  Plate  ; and  it  sunk  into  the  lowest  estimation  the 
military  character  of  the  people,  when  a single  city,  contain- 
ing a population  equal  to  scarcely  one-half  of  that  of  its  own 
capital,  could  baffle  all  their  attempts,  and  finally  compel  a 
great  empire  to  succumb  to  its  handful  of  soldiers  and 
sailors. 

Immediately  on  the  cessation  of  war,  and  when  their  ser- 
vices were  no  longer  necessary,  the  foreigners  who  served 
in  the  army  were  treated  with  very  little  ceremony,  and 
their  feelings  and  wants  totally  disregarded.  Several  whose 
health  had  suffered  severely,  either  from  wounds  or  climate, 
had  requested  some  little  indulgences,  which  they  might 
reasonably  expect  when  the  campaign  was  over  ; but  they 
were  all  harshly  refused.  Captain  Ayre,  an  Englishman 
in  the  naval  service,  applied  for  leave  of  absence  for  a few 
months,  to  re-establish  his  injured  constitution,  by  a visit  to 
the  upper  country.  He  was  informed  by  the  minister  of 
marine,  that  he  had  the  option  at  once  to  resign  his  com- 
mission, and  quit  the  service  ; but  if  he  wished  to  retain  it, 
he  must  not  be  absent  a moment.  On  another  occasion, 
twentyseven  foreign  officers  were  dismissed  on  parade, 
without  any  provision  for  the  future,  or  remuneration  for 
past  services  ; twenty  four  were  Germans,  who  were  order- 
ed to  embark  in  ships  provided  for  them,  and  that  with  such 
precipitation,  that  they  were  not  allowed  to  go  back  for 
their  great  coats.  A few  days  after,  nine  more,  among 
whom  were  some  English  or  Irish,  were  discharged  in  the 
same  unceremonious  manner. 

The  death  of  Dorn  John  at  this  time,  was  an  event  fraught 
with  important  consequences  both  to  Brazil  and  Portugal. 
He  had  enjoyed  good  health  since  his  illness  in  1805,  with 
the  exception  of  the  hereditary  infirmity  of  his  family,  an 
cedematous  swelling  of  his  legs.  On  the  4th  of  March, 
1826,  hedined  with  the  monks  at  the  convent  of  S.  Jerony- 
mo,  in  Lisbon,  in  apparent  good  health  ; but,  on  his  return 
to  the  palace  of  Bemposto,  he  was  suddenly  seized  with  a 
15* 


174 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


fit  of  vomiting,  which  was  succeeded  by  fainting  and  convul- 
sions. The  next  day,  after  taking  some  chicken  broth,  (the 
first  remedy  usually  resorted  to  by  Portuguese  physicians,) 
the  vomiting  returned  with  increased  violence.  Having  ob- 
tained some  remission  of  the  symptoms,  on  the  following  day 
he  appointed  his  daughter,  the  Infanta  Isabella,  regent,  as- 
sisted by  a council  of  ministers,  aud  continued  to  linger  on 
till  the  9th,  when  a fresh  access  brought  on  the  crisis  of  his 
fate,  and  on  the  10th,  at  six  o’clock  in  the  evening,  he 
expired.  * 

On  the  25th  of  April  following,  an  official  account  of  his 
death  arrived  in  Brazil,  and  on  the  next  day,  the  emperor 
assumed  the  character  of  King  of  Portugal,  and  issued  a 
decree  confirming  the  regency  appointed  by  the  late  king. 
He  then  published  an  act  of  amnesty  for  all  political  offences, 
drew  up  a constitutional  charter  for  the  Portuguese  mo- 
narchy, which  his  father  had  promised  in  May,  1823  ; ad- 
dressed seventy-seven  patents  for  the  creation  of  a chamber 
of  peers,  and  on  the  2d  of  May,  abdicated  in  favor  of  his 
daughter,  Dona  Maria,  having  been  himself  sovereign  of 
Portugal  but  six  days,  and  in  that  short  period,  completed 
a new  system,  and  framed  a new  code  of  laws,  for  the  fu- 
ture government  of  that  kingdom.  Sir  Charles  Stuart  hap- 
pened to  be  at  Rio,  on  public  business,  and  having  accom- 
plished it,  he  was  about  to  return  home.  To  his  care  the 
emperor  confided  these  important  documents,  and  they  were 
brought  by  him  to  Europe.  This  has  given  rise  to  an 
opinion,  that  the  constitution  was  drawn  up  with  the  con- 
currence, and  promulgated  with  the  co-operation,  of  the 
British  ministry  •,  but  it  does  not  appear  that,  however  they 
might  approve  of  its  principles,  they  had  any  further  par- 
ticipation in  it  than  the  accidental  courtesy  of  the  British 
ambassador,  for  more  safe  and  speedy  conveyance,  taking 
it  to  Europe  in  the  ship  of  war  that  conveyed  himself.* 

In  order  to  give  stability  to  the  new  order  of  things,  as  a 
mark  of  affection  to  his  brother,  and  to  comply  with  the 
ancient  regulation  of  the  Portuguese  monarchy,  established 
by  the  Cortes  of  Lamego,  that  the  first  daughter  of  the  king, 
being  heiress  to  the  crown,  should  marry  a Portuguese,  so 

* Sir  Charles  Stuart’s  letter  is  a curious  proof  of  the  hasty  manner 
in  which  the  constitution  was  framed.  “ He  (the  emperor)  then  pro- 
duced his  project  of  a constitution  already  completed,  to  the  compila- 
tion of  which  he  had  devoted  the  greater  part  of  the  week.” — Lettev 
from  Rio,  April  30, 1826. 


NOTICES  OF  ERAZIL. 


175 


that  the  crown  should  not  come  to  strangers,*  it  was  re- 
solved that  Dona  Maria  should  marry  her  uncle  Dom  Mi- 
guel, as  by  ancient  usage  “ such  mixture  is  not  held  a stain  ” 
in  either  Spain  or  Portugal. 

Dona  Maria  had  been  the  first-born  of  the  emperor,  when 
Prince  of  Beira,  and  her  birth  was  hailed  by  the  Brazilians 
as  a circumstance  of  the  highest  domestic  congratulation. 
When  the  pregnancy  of  the  princess  w as  announced,  pray- 
ers were  offered  up,  and  the  sacrament  exposed  in  all  the 
churches,  for  her  happy  accouchement  ; and  on  Palm  Sun- 
day, the  4th  of  April,  1819,  at  five  o’clock  in  the  evening, 
repeated  discharges  of  cannon  from  the  fortresses,  and  other 
demonstrations  of  joy,  announced  “ that  heaven  had  given 
to  the  Portuguese  nation  the  first  fruits  of  the  nuptials  of  the 
prince  and  princess.”  The  3d  of  May,  so  often  fixed  on 
as  an  epoch  of  events  in  Brazil,  because  it  was  the  day  of 
its  discovery,  was  appointed  for  her  baptism,  and  she  re- 
ceived the  names  of  Dona  Maria  da  Gloria,  Joanna,  Car- 
lotta,  Leopoldina  da  Cruz,  Francisca,  Xavier  de  Paula, 
Izidora,  Michaela,  Gabriela,  Raphaela,  Gongaza. 

Particular  churches  in  Brazil,  as  in  other  catholic 
countries,  are  celebrated  for  their  efficacious  interference 
in  different  cases  of  human  infirmities  : that  of  the  church 
of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria  is  eminently  so,  and  always  re- 
sorted to  by  married  women  in  a state  of  pregnancy,  who 
offer,  at  the  shrine  of  our  Lady,  their  vows  for  a happy 
confinement.  This  was  constantly  the  practice  of  the 
Princess  Leopoldina,  who  was  seen  every  Sunday  and  holy- 
day  in  this  church  at  the  foot  of  the  altar.  In  gratitude, 
therefore,  for  her  propitious  protection,  she  devoted  her  in- 
fant to  her  patroness  ; and  on  the  27th  of  June,  the  day  of 
the  Purification  in  the  Portuguese  church,  she  was  solemnly 
presented  at  the  sanctuary.  To  this  circumstance  it  is  that 
she  owes  the  name,  by  which  she  has  been  generally  recog- 
nized, among  the  numerous  ones  conferred  on  her. 

It  would  seem  that  the  project  of  his  daughter’s  marriage 
with  her  uncle  had  been  contemplated  by  Dom  Pedro  im- 
mediately on  her  birth,  as  is  evident  from  the  following 
passage  in  his  correspondence  with  his  father,  from  his  let- 
ter, dated  19th  June,  1822.  u I request  your  majesty  to 
permit  my  dear  brother  Miguel  to  come  hither,  in  any  man- 

* Sit  ita  in  sempiternum,  quod  prima  filia  regis  recipiat  maritum 
de  Portugalia,  ut  non  veniat  regnum  ad  extraneos. 


176 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ner  that  you  may  think  proper,  because  he  is  much  esteemed 
here,  and  the  Brazilians  wish  him  to  assist  me  in  rendering 
service  to  Brazil,  and  in  due  lime  to  marry  my  pretty  daugh- 
ter Maria.”*  The  consummation  of  it,  therefore,  at  this 
time,  was  merely  carrying  into  effect  a project  long  deter- 
mined on.  The  legal  part  of  the  ceremony  was  now  per- 
formed, by  procuration,  between  the  parties  atVienna,  where 
Dom  Miguel  then  was,  and  the  ecclesiastical  part  was  only 
wanting  to  complete  it. 

Meantime  the  affairs  of  Portugal  became  exceedingly  dis- 
turbed by  the  conflicting  opinions  of  those  who  approved 
and  disapproved  of  the  constitutional  charter  ; and  the  agi- 
tation was  greatly  increased  by  the  enfeebled  state  of  the 
regent.  To  put  an  end  to  these  dissensions,  and  give  an 
efficient  government  to  the  kingdom,  the  emperor  resolved 
to  anticipate  the  period  when  his  brother,  Dom  Miguel,  was 
to  assume  that  office,  and  immediately  invested  him  with  it. 
By  a decree,  therefore,  signed  at  Rio,  on  the  3d  of  July, 
1827,  he  stated  that,  taking  into  consideration  the  intelli- 
gence, activity,  frankness,  and  character  of  the  Infante  Dom 
Miguel,  his  beloved  brother,  he,  for  many  weighty  reasons, 
appointed  him  his  lieutenant,  giving  him  all  the  powers 
which  belonged  to  himself,  as  king  of  Portugal  and  Algarve, 
under  the  constitutional  charter.  In  consequence  of  this, 
Dom  Miguel  wrote  to  his  sister  from  Vienna,  that  he  was 
determined  to  maintain  inviolate  the  laws  of  the  kingdom, 
and  the  institutions  legally  granted  by  his  august  brother, 
to  cause  them  to  be  observed  by  others,  and  by  them  govern 
the  kingdom.  Accordingly  he  set  out  from  Vienna,  with 
this  apparent  resolution,  and  arrived  in  England,  where  he 
received  the  address  of  the  Portuguese  residents,  on  the 
same  subject,  and  proceeded  to  Portugal.  On  his  arrival 
in  Lisbon,  the  26th  of  February,  in  the  presence  of  the  two 
chambers  of  the  cortes,  and  of  the  assembled  court,  he  con- 
firmed by  his  oath,  what  he  had  written  to  his  sister  ; he 
solemnly  swore  to  observe  the  constitution,  and  cause  it  to 
be  observed  by  others,  as  established  by  the  charter. 

Notwithstanding  these  appearances,  everything  portend- 
ed the  approaching  abolition  of  the  new  order  of  things. 

* 11  Pe^o  a V.  M.  que  deixe  vir  o niano  Miguel  para  ca,  seja  como 
for,  porque  elle  he  aqui  muito  estimado,  e os  Brazileiros  o querem  ao 
pe  de  mim,  para  me  ajudar  a servir  no  Brazil,  e a seu  tempo  cazar  com 
a minha  Hilda Jil/ta  Maria." 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


177 


Mobs  everywhere  insulted  the  constitutionalists.  The  of- 
ficers of  the  army,  supposed  to  be  so,  were  dismissed.  The 
chamber  of  deputies  was  dissolved,  the  charter  was  burnt, 
and  addresses  were  got  up  in  the  municipalities,  praying  the 
regent  to  assume  the  crown  ; and  such  was  the  general 
feeling  of  disapprobation  to  his  proceedings,  that  foreign 
ministers,  at  the  court  of  Lisbon,  refused  to  hold  any  com- 
munication with  him.  It  was  in  vain  that  the  Portuguese 
endeavored  to  arrest  his  despotic  progress.  An  insurrec- 
tion took  place  at  Oporto,  and  the  troops  proceeded  towards 
Lisbon  ; but  they  hesitated,  returned,  and  were  totally  dis- 
persed ; and,  indeed,  it  appeared,  that,  however  large  and 
respectable  a body  the  constitutionalists  were  in  numbers, 
talent,  and  wealth,  they  were  greatly  exceeded  by  their  op- 
ponents, who,  numerically  speaking,  may  be  said  to  have 
constituted  the  people  of  the  country. 

On  the  dissolution  of  the  constitutional  cortes,  the  ancient 
assembly  of  the  kingdom  was  convened  in  its  place.  This 
obsolete  body  had  been  first  convoked,  at  Lamego,  by  Al- 
phonso  the  First,  in  1143,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing 
the  succession  of  the  crown.  It  had,  however,  fallen  lat- 
terly into  such  entire  disuse,  that  it  had  not  been  called  to- 
gether since  the  year  1697.  It  now  met  again,  after  an  in- 
terval of  131  years,  on  the  23d  of  June,  1828,  and,  without 
hesitation  or  debate,  decided  that  Dom  Miguel  was  the  only 
legal  sovereign,  that  Dom  Pedro  had  no  right  over  the  king- 
dom, and  all  the  institutions  he  had  imposed  were  null  and 
illegal.  On  the  28th,  Dom  Miguel,  by  an  ordinance,  con- 
firmed their  decision,  and  formally  assumed  the  title  of  Dom 
Miguel,  by  the  grace  of  God,  King  of  Portugal  and  the 
Algarves. 

When  the  news  of  these  things  arrived  in  Brazil,  it  ex- 
cited a correspondent  emotion  among  all  classes.  The  peo- 
ple thought  they  saw  the  downfal  of  their  own  constitution 
in  that  of  Portugal,  and  the  emperor  saw  the  kingdom  wrest- 
ed from  his  daughter,  and  the  crown  placed  on  the  head  of 
an  usurper.  He  immediately  addressed  a proclamation  to 
the  Portuguese,  and,  affecting  to  lay  the  blame  on  others, 
he  displayed  the  bitterness  of  his  feelings  against  Dom  Mi- 
guel. To  the  compulsion  under  which  he  labored  he  at- 
tributed his  conduct.  u To  entertain  a contrary  opinion,” 
said  he,  u would  amount  to  considering  him  a traitor  to  the 
assurances  and  protestations  he  made  to  me  whilst  I was 
his  king,  and  reputing  him  perjured  to  his  oath  which  he 


178 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


freely  took  at  Vienna,  and  ratified  at  Lisbon.”  In  con- 
versation, I have  been  told,  he  could  not  speak  of  him  with- 
out bursting  into  a rage  ; and  he  has  seized  the  breast  of  the 
person  to  whom  he  was  speaking,  and  shaking  him  violently, 
he  said,  he  wished  it  was  the  usurper  that  was  in  his  grasp. 
One  of  the  saloons  of  the  palace  contained  portraits  of  all 
the  Braganza  family,  and  among  the  rest  that  of  Dom  Mi- 
guel. He  one  day  ordered  it  to  be  taken  down,  Mr.  Wal- 
ton says,  with  the  intention  of  having  it  kicked  about  the 
palace  with  every  mark  of  indignity.  It  was  not,  however, 
so  treated,  but  it  was  inverted,  and  the  face  turned  to  the 
wall,  as  a thing  he  could  not  bear  to  look  upon. 

In  order  to  mark  his  strong  approbation  of  those  men  who 
had  been  faithful  to  his  daughter,  and  hostile  to  his  brother, 
as  soon  as  he  heard  of  the  events  at  Oporto,  he  conferred 
on  her  the  title  of  duchess  of  that  place,  to  impress  upon 
her  mind  her  inalienable  rights,  and  in  memory  of  the  brave 
city  which  had  dared  to  maintain  them  ; and  this  title  she 
was  to  bear  at  the  court  of  Vienna.  Here  her  father  had 
now  resolved  to  send  her,  to  visit  her  mother’s  relatives, 
and  reside  with  her  grandfather,  who  was  apprised  of  her 
intended  coming.  The  Imperatriz  frigate  was  immediately 
got  ready,  and  on  the  evening  of  her  departure,  he  accom- 
panied Dona  Maria  on  board,  and  remained  there  all  night. 
Next  morning,  at  day-break,  the  frigate,  joined  by  the  cor- 
vette Dona  Francisca,  weighed,  and  proceeded  out  of  the 
harbor.  The  emperor  continued  with  his  daughter  beyond 
the  forts,  and  then  returned  to  Rio  in  a steam-boat,  at  that 
time  plying  about  the  bay.  His  Majesty’s  ship,  the  Gan- 
ges, accompanied  the  young  queen  for  several  leagues. 
She  was  attended  by  the  Marquis  of  Barbacena,  as  cham- 
berlain, and  it  was  their  intention  to  land  at  Genoa,  where 
her  aunt,  Maria  Louisa,  ex-empress  of  France,  and  Count 
Leibzejtern,  late  ambassador  in  Russia,  proceeded  to  re- 
ceive her,  and  conduct  her  to  Vienna.  u 

On  their  way  they  touched  at  Gibraltar  for  refreshments. 
Here  they  found  such  information  as  induced  her  attendants 
not  to  complete  their  intended  voyage,  but  to  proceed  to 
England.  It  was  expected  generally  that  the  arrival  of  a 
young  and  interesting  girl,  under  the  circumstances  in  which 
she  was  placed,  would  not  fail  to  excite  such  a popular  feel- 
ing in  her  favor,  as  would  be  highly  advantageous  to  her  in- 
terests. On  the  24th  of  September,  1828,  the  frigate  ar- 
rived at  Falmouth,  where  she  was  received  with  every  mark 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


179 


of  respect,  and  immediately  visited  by  the  Marquis  Palmel- 
la,  General  Valdez,  and  other  unfortunate  gentlemen,  who 
had  sacrificed  so  much  in  her  cause. 

It  was  as  yet  uncertain,  however,  whether  she  would  be 
received  as  a queen,  or  merely  as  Duchess  of  Oporto  ; hut 
a royal  salute  soon  announced  the  character  in  which  the 
British  government  were  disposed  to  consider  her,  and  she 
proceeded  to  the  capital,  acknowledged  everywhere  as  a sove- 
reign. As  the  first  exercise  of  her  royal  functions,  she  ap- 
pointed the  Marquis  Palmella  her  ambassador  to  the  British 
court  ; but  as  this  is  one  of  the  highest  functions  of  prerog- 
ative, and  could  not  be  exercised  by  herself  because  she 
was  a minor,  or  by  the  emperor  of  Brazil,  because  he  was 
no  longer  king  of  Portugal,  the  marquis  was  not  acknow- 
ledged. A dispatch  was  immediately  sent  off  to  apprize  the 
emperor  of  the  arrival  of  the  young  queen  in  England,  with 
an  assurance  that  she  should  be  treated  with  the  respect 
due  to  her  rank  and  sex,  and  the  regard  owed  to  the  sove- 
reign of  a friendly  and  long  allied  power  ; but,  at  the  same 
time,  expressing  a regret  that  no  communication  had  been 
previously  made,  nor  the  usual  etiquette  observed,  which 
always  precedes  such  a measure,  as  the  visit  of  one  sove- 
reign to  another. 

The  Rio  papers  were  filled  with  the  flattering  reception 
the  young  queen  had  met  with  in  England,  and  all  the  sto- 
ries, however  absurd,  were  copied  as  proofs,  not  only  that 
the  people,  but  the  government  of  England,  had  espoused 
her  cause.  This  was  confirmed  by  the  arrival  of  a deputa- 
tion from  the  Constitutionalists,  which  had  such  an  effect 
that  three  ships  of  war  were  ordered  to  be  got  ready  ; and 
so  anxious  was  the  emperor  for  their  equipment,  that  he 
went  by  torch-light  to  see  a schooner  coppered  at  the  arse- 
nal, which  was  to  accompany  them.  On  being,  however, 
assured  by  the  British  minister,  that  England  would  observe 
a strict  neutrality,  he  countermanded  the  orders. 

Such  was  the  situation  of  Brazil  on  our  arrival.  A vast 
country  just  separated  from  its  parent  state,  having  adopted 

new  and  unusual  form  of  government,  in  which  the  ele- 
ments of  democracy  were  largely  mixed  up  with  imperial 
principles,  and  the  spirit  of  it  everywhere  abroad,  and  ready 
to  burst  out  ; — the  young  government,  embarrassed  by  va- 
rious difficulties,  brought  on  by  a petty  but  ruinous  warfare  ; 
— the  nation  just  recovered  from  the  terror  and  alarm  of  a 
mutiny  among  strange  troops  ; — the  foreign  merchants,  par- 


180 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ticularly  the  English,  pressing  in  their  demands  for  compel 
sation,  for  the  spoliation  of  their  property  by  the  blockade  ; 
— the  gold  and  silver  of  the  country  entirely  vanished,  and 
no  currency  but  paper,  which  would  not  circulate  beyond 
the  capital,  and  large  pieces  of  copper,  which  bore  a dis- 
count of  forty  per  cent.,  and  even  at  that  could  not  always 
be  procured  ; — the  emperor  exasperated  at  the  ingratitude 
of  his  brother,  and  the  base  usurpation  of  his  daughter’s 
kingdom  ; — all  the  people  in  a high  state  of  excitement,  lest 
the  extinction  of  the  constitution  in  Portugal  was  but  a pre- 
lude to  a similar  thing  in  Brazil  ; — and  prejudice  against 
strangers  exceedingly  strong  and  strengthening  every  day, 
but  particularly  against  the  English,  whom,  on  all  questions 
connected  with  Portugal,  they  considered  as  their  decided 
enemies,  and  on  those  purely  Brazilian  as  not  their  friends, 
particularly  on  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade. 

Having  thus  stated  to  you  the  most  important  events 
which  had  happened,  from  the  period  when  Brazil  ceased  to 
be  a mere  colony,  till  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  the  country, 
in  order  that  you  may  the  better  understand  the  actual  state 
in  which  we  found  it,  I shall  proceed  with  incidents  as  they 
afterwards  occurred. 


CHAP.  XV. 

Emperor’s  baptismal  Day. — British  Chapel. — Obstacles  opposed  to  its  Erection  by 
Pope’s  Nuncio,  and  his  strange  Proposition. — Different  Conduct  of  the  Bishop  of 
Rio,  and  his  curious  Argument. — First  Edifice  raised  for  reformed  Worship  in 
South  America. — Opening  of  Chapel. — Assault  on  the  Windows. — Present  neglected 
State. — Strange  Compound  of  Liberality  and  Prejudice  in  a Brazilian  Writer. — 
Obstinacy  of  Mules. — Choleric  Driver. — Festival  on  the  Eve  of  All  Souls. — Drama- 
tic Exhibition. — Visit  the  Church  of  St.  Francisco  on  All  Souls’  Day. — Miracles 
wrought  on  the  Living. — Moorish  Customs  in  Chapel. — Treatment  of  the  Dead-  — 
Church  of  Candelaria — Revolting  Appearance  of  the  Rosario. — Convent  of  S. 
Bento. — Library. — Anecdote  ofDom  John. — Convent  of  S.  Antonia,  and  Tomb  of 
General  Forbes. — Refectory  andLibrary. — Beautiful  Site  ofthe  Nunnery  of  S.  The- 
resa.— Faith  in  the  Protection  of  Boa  Viagem,  shaken  by  an  Accident. — St.  Do- 
mingo Chapel  for  Blacks. — Sta.  Rita  for  Malefactors. 

The  Sunday  following  our  arrival,  was  the  baptismal  day 
of  the  emperor,  and  one  of  those  festivals  observed  with 
great  ceremony.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  Brazilian  ships 
of  war  hoisted  their  flags  and  ensigns,  and  all  the  stays  and 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


181 


yard-arms  were  covered  with  them.  This  example  was 
followed  by  the  English  ; the  French  displayed  the  white 
flag  only  ; and  the  Americans  took  no  notice  by  any  de- 
monstration. Towards  mid-day,  a discharge  of  sky-rockets, 
and  other  fire-works,  was  seen  over  different  parts  of  the 
town,  and  then  a general  salute  of  artillery  commenced.  The 
Brazilian  vessels  began  ; it  was  returned  by  the  fortresses 
all  round  the  bay,  and  taken  up  by  the  foreign  ships  of  war. 
The  effect  was  grand  ; but  I was  already  sated  with  such 
things  at  Constantinople.  In  this  kind  of  display,  the  Bra- 
zilians exactly  resemble  the  Turks  : the  decoration  of  their 
ships  with  flags,  and  the  continued  explosion  of  artillery, 
were  precisely  the  same  in  Rio  harbor  and  on  the  Bos- 
phorus. 

After  this  display  of  pomp,  I returned  to  the  quiet  and 
simplicity  of  our  English  church  service,  as  more  according 
with  the  feelings  which  our  sabbath  excites.  The  edifice 
stands,  on  the  Rua  dos  Barbonos,  and  is  distinguished  as 
being  the  first  ever  erected  in  South  America.  Before  it 
was  built,  divine  service  was  only  performed  occasionally 
on  board  any  king’s  or  merchant’s  ship,  in  the  bay,  of  which 
the  English  on  shore  used  to  avail  themselves.  But  in  the 
year  1810,  by  one  of  the  articles  of  the  treaty  then  made 
by  Lord  Strangford,  with  the  Brazilian  government,  it  was 
stipulated,  that  the  British  should  be  permitted  to  build  a 
church  for  divine  service,  provided  it  was  erected,  not  as  a 
public  edifice,  but  as  a private  house,  and  did  not  use  bells 
to  assemble  the  congregation.  This  latter  stipulation  was 
unnecessary,  as  the  residences  of  the  English  were  so  re- 
mote, that  no  bell  could  be  heard,  and  so  would  have  been 
useless.  When  the  article  was  about  to  be  inserted  in  the 
treaty,  the  pope’s  nuncio,  Louren^o  Calepi,  archbishop  of 
Nisibis,  was  at  Rio.  He  was  a man  of  the  easiest  and 
most  insinuating  manners,  and  seemed  so  little  disposed  to 
take  exception  to  such  a thing,  that  he  appeared  rather 
careless  of  more  serious  matters.  Nevertheless,  he  made 
the  most  strenuous  opposition  to  the  measure.  He  demand- 
ed an  audience  with  the  king,  and  represented  in  the  strong- 
est manner,  the  encouragement  such  an  innovation  would 
give  to  the  growth  of  schism  in  the  church.  When  he 
could  not  succeed  in  inducing  Horn  John  to  retract  his  as- 
sent, he  then  proposed,  that  if  the  exercise  of  Protestantism 
was  thus  publicly  permitted,  the  Inquisition  should  also  be 
established  along  with  it,  to  watch  over  the  interests  of  the 
10 


182 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Catholic  religion,  and  restrain  the  progress  of  that  heresy 
among  the  -Brazilians,  which  this  public  edifice  of  the  new 
faith  could  not  fail  to  encourage.  This  tribunal  had,  for 
the  last  half  century,  fallen  into  disuse,  even  in  Lisbon, 
and  it  never  had  been  introduced  into  Brazil,  nor  was  it 
likely  the  people  of  the  country  would  submit  to  it;  and 
this  compromise  was  also  rejected. 

The  bishop  of  Rio,  on  the  contrary,  was  a strenuous  ad- 
vocate for  the  measure.  He  is  not  only  a tolerant  and  lib- 
eral man,  but  a man  of  excellent  good  sense  and  knowledge 
of  the  world.  He  advocated  the  cause,  in  a characteristic 
manner,  with  the  prejudiced  few  who  opposed  it.  u The 
English,”  said  he,  “ have  really  no  religion  ; but  they  are 
a proud  and  obstinate  people.  If  ycm  oppose  them,  they 
will  persist,  and  make  it  an  affair  of  infinite  importance  ; 
but  if  you  concede  to  their  wishes,  the  chapel  will  be  built, 
and  nobody  will  ever  go  near  it.”  This  argument  had  its 
weight,  and  the  Brazilians  say  he  was  right ; for  the  event 
has  verified  the  prediction.  All  opposition  was,  therefore, 
withdrawn,. and  the  treaty  was  signed  in  a tolerant  and  lib- 
eral spirit,  as  creditable  to  the  disposition  of  the  king,  as  of 
his  American  subjects. 

In  order  to  meet  the  expense  of  such  an  erection,  a duty 
of  one-half  per  cent,  was  laid  on  all  British  merchandize 
imported  into  Brazil,  and  by  a very  unequal  distribution  of 
the  produce,  two-thirds  were  allocated  for  the  consul-gene- 
ral, and  one-third  only  for  pious  and  charitable  uses,  in 
which  were  included  the  chapel,  chaplain,  sick  poor,  and 
all  other  similar  expenditure.  The  rapid  increase  of  British 
commerce  was  such,  that  I am  informed  the  percentage 
yielded  ten  or  twelve  thousand  pounds  per  annum,  to  the 
consul-general.  When  a sufficient  sum  was  raised,  the 
chapel  was  commenced.  The  place  originally  fixed  on  was 
in  the  Largo  da  Lapa,  nearly  opposite  the  public  gardens. 
Here  was  a large  square  in  front,  and  a space  in  the  rear, 
extending  nearly  to  the  aqueduct,  capable  of  affording  a 
considerable  area  round  the  church,  and  space  for  a chap- 
lain’s residence.  This  eligible  site,  however,  was  given 
up  for  the  present  contracted,  obscure,  and  inconvenient  one. 
The  place  chosen  was. the  court-yard  of  a former  religious 
edifice,  belonging  to  a deceased  Catholic  bishop,  Jose 
Joaquin  Justiniani,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Rua  dos  Bar- 
bonos.  The  foundation-stone  was  laid  on  the  12th  of  Au- 
gust, the  anniversary  of  the  birth-day  of  the  then  Prince 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


183 


Regent  of  England,  and  a bottle,  containing  some  English 
newspapers,  with  coins  of  the  same  date,  as  is  usual,  was 
deposited  with  it.  It  was  dedicated  to  St.  George,  the  pat- 
ron of  England,  and  St.  John  the  Baptist,  in  compliment 
to  John  VI.  the  worthy  sovereign,  who  had  permitted  the 
erection  of  the  first  reformed  church  in  South  America, 
since  the  Dutch  had  a temporary  possession  of  Pernam- 
buco. 

The  original  plan  of  the  edifice  had  arched  windows.  It 
was  submitted  to  the  king,  who  objected  that  such  windows 
would  not  resemble  those  of  a private  house.  The  present 
plan,  with  a portico  and  pediment,  was  then  given  in  ; and 
it  was  approved  of,  though  much  more  deviating  from  the 
original  stipulation.  The  front  is  that  of  a small  but  elegant 
public  building,  thrown  back  from  the  street  to  give  it  effect, 
and  separated  from  it  by  an  ornamental  iron  railing  and  gates. 
The  interior  consists  of  two  aisles,  one  at  each  side,  but 
none  in  the  middle.  The  pews  have  no  doors,  and  they  are 
very  properly  open  seats.  They  and  the  pulpit  are  made  of 
veniatica,  a native  wood,  like  mahogany,  beautifully  grained 
and  colored,  and  susceptible  of  a high  polish.  The  body 
of  the  chapel  has  a spacious  and  elegant  appearance,  and  is 
capable  of  containing  from  six  to  seven  hundred  persons. 

When  the  edifice  was  finished,  and  ready  for  divine  ser- 
vice, a day  was  appointed  for  opening  and  consecrating  it. 
The  chaplain,  Mr.  Crane,  who  had  for  three  years  before 
performed  service  for  the  English  congregation  in  a pri- 
vate house,  while  the  church  was  buildin'g,  now  wrote  to 
the  bishop  of  London,  to  know  in  what  manner  he  should 
perform  the  ceremony  of  consecration;  but  the  bishop’s 
answer  did  not  arrive  till  the  ceremony  was  over.  The  di- 
rections sent,  however,  had  been  anticipated,  and  the 
prayers  prescribed  used,  with  a particular  one  composed  for 
the  occasion.  A guard  of  police  was  ordered  to  attend,  as 
a matter  of  precaution  against  any  bigoted  or  evil-disposed 
persons  who  might  be  inclined  to  interrupt  the  service,  or 
disturb  a congregation  introducing  anew  religion,  to  which 
their  prejudices  were  supposed  to  be  greatly  hostile  ; but  no 
disposition  of  the  kind  occurred.  On  the  contrary,  the  com- 
mon people  conducted  themselves  with  great  propriety  abroad, 
and  the  interior  of  the  church  was  filled  with  a numerous  as- 
semblage of  very  respectable  Brazilians,  who  equalled  the 
Protestants,  as  wrell  in  numbers  as  in  reverence  for  the 
place,  by  a serious  and  devout  demeanor. 


184 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


A short  time  after,  however,  an  assault  was  made  on 
the  church,  of  a very  disagreeable  nature.  While  the 
chaplain  was  officiating  one  Sunday  morning,  a shower  of 
stones  was  poured  into  the  windows,  which  shattered  all 
the  glass  ; but,  fortunately,  the  blinds  interposed  and  pro- 
tected the  congregation  from  any  injury.  An  immediate 
inquiry  was  made,  and  it  was  found,  that  the  outrage 
proceeded  from  the  house  of  a Spaniard,  who  kept  a venda 
near  the  chapel.  His  yard  was  close  by  one  side,  and 
some  drunken  fellows,  who  frequented  his  shop,  amused 
themselves  with  this  attack  on  the  English  church.  A 
strong  representation  was  made  to  the  proprietor,  who  was 
threatened  with  the  police,  and  the  outrage  was  never  re- 
peated. 

The  permission  of  the  treaty  was  recognized  and  confirm- 
ed by  the  constitutional  charter  at  the  revolution,  which 
contains  the  following  passage  : — u All  other  religions  (be- 
sides the  catholic)  are  permitted,  either  in  domestic  wor- 
ship, or  in  particular  edifices  destined  for  the  purpose-, 
without,  however,  having  any  exterior  appearance  of  a 
temple.”*  The  repetition  of  this  exception  is  merely  a 
matter  of  form,  to  comply  with  any  prejudice  which  might 
linger  among  the  people  ; and  though  it  has  not  been  at- 
tended to,  the  people  seem  to  retain  no  prejudice  on  the 
subject. 

I was  concerned  to  find  that  this  chapel  was  never  entirely 
finished  ; and  at  present  it  exhibits  marks  not  only  of  neg- 
lect, but  decay.  The  portico  at  the  entrance  was  not  lead- 
ed, and  the  rain  having  penetrated,  has  rotted  the  roof, 
which  is  continually  falling  on  the  heads  of  the  scanty 
congregation  who  attend  it  ; the  windows,  which  were 
broken  so  long  ago  by  the  outrage  I mentioned,  have  not 
since  been  repaired  ; the  blinds  inside  are  all  stained  and 
soiled  ; and  instead  of  the  neatness  and  propriety  which 
always  distinguished  the  house  of  God  in  England,  it  had 
an  air  of  dirt  and  neglect,  quite  painful  to  contemplate; 
and  the  congregation,  as  if  to  confirm  the  prediction  of  the 
bishop  of  Rio,  seemed  to  take  no  interest  in  it  when  it  was 
built,  notwithstanding  their  zeal  to  have  it  established.  It 
is  capable  of  containing  six  or  seven  hundred  persons,  and 


* “ Todas  as  outras  religioes  serao  permittidas  com  seu  culto  do* 
mestico,  ou  particular  em  casas  para  isso  destinadas,  sern  forma.  algi\~ 
ma  exterior  de  templo.” — Titulo  I.  di't . 5, 


NOTICES  OE  BRAZIL. 


185 


there  is  that  number  of  the  reformed  church  at  Rio  to  fill  it, 
yet  I never  counted  more  than  thirty  or  forty.  I have 
often  reflected,  with  great  concern,  on  this  indifference  to 
public  worship  among  our  factories  abroad,  and  I refer  you 
to  Spon  and  Wheeler  for  what  they  witnessed  in  the  Levant 
in  their  day.  I have  even  thought  it  was  one  great  imped- 
iment to  the  progress  of  the  reformation  in  Catholic  coun- 
tries. Instead  of  letting  u our  light  so  shine  before  men,” 
on  the  sabbath,  c£  that  they  seeing  our  good  works,”  might 
be  led  to  u glorify  our  Father  in  heaven  ” after  the  same 
manner  ; they  only  consider  our  separation  from  their  church 
as  an  abandonment  of  all  worship,  and  point  out  our  conduct 
in  proof  of  it. 

There  is  nothing  which  more  strongly  marks  the  growing 
feeling  of  toleration  in  the  world,  than  this  concession 
among  a people,  formerly  distinguished  for  their  spirit  of 
persecution.  It  is  creditable  to  the  good  sense  and  kindly 
feelings  of  the  Brazilian  Portuguese,  and  the  press  of  the 
country  is  continually  employed  in  extending  it.  Among 
the  distinguished  native  writers,  whose  works  have  been 
printed  at  Rio,  is  Jose  da  Silva  Lisboa,  Yisconde  Cayru. 
He  has  published  several  books  on  various  useful  subjects, 
and  in  one,  the  “ Escola  Brazileira,”  is  a curious  instance 
of  crude  opinions  w'here  liberality  and  prejudice  mingle 
together  like  gold  and  dross,  in  a state  of  fusion,  in  the 
same  crucible  ; and  it  is  also  important  as  containing  the 
opinions  of  the  well-informed  Brazilians  on  a great  national 
question,  before  it  was  carried  in  England  ; the  worthy 
author  did  not  seem  to  know,  that  the  Catholics  even  then 
enjoyed  the  same  political  privileges  in  Ireland,  which  the 
Protestants  do  now  in  Brazil — the  elective,  but  not  the 
representative  franchise.  He  says,  “ But  as  the  same 
constitution  admits  of  different  sects,  it  is  solely  for  the  in- 
dulgence of  strangers,  in  order  that  no  restraint  should  be 
laid  on  the  conscience,  in  the  genuine  spirit  of  that  tolera- 
tion which  our  Saviour  has  taught  us.  Happily  this  indul- 
gence has,  by  the  providence  of  God,  made  astonishing 
progress  among  nations,  distinguished  by  the  diffusion  of 
the  light  of  the  Gospel,  which  is  extended  not  only  to  one 
hemisphere,  but  to  the  other,  spontaneously  and  prodi- 
giously by  a Bible  society,  protected  by  the  higher  powers 
of  Christendom.  Even  in  England,  in  the  chamber  of 
commons,  already  a law  has  past  to  abrogate  all  intolerant 
statutes  which  effect  the  Catholic,  Apostolic,  and  Roman 
1G* 


186 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


religion  ; but  the  law  was  not  confirmed  in  the  chamber  of 

peers,  owing  to  the  malign  influence  of -,  whom 

all  the  world  has  already  seen,  to  the  terror  of  the  wicked, 
to  be  called  a little  while  since  before  the  Judge  of  Eter- 
nity.I pointed  out  this  extraordinary  passage  to  several 
Brazilians  ; to  the  first  part  they  cordially  assented,  to  the 
second  they  shook  their  heads  and  said  nothing. 

On  Sunday,  November  2,  I was  engaged  to  dine  with  a 
friend,  and  I ordered  a sege,  or  cabriolet,  to  be  in  readiness 
to  convey  me  to  Bota  Fogo,  about  four  miles  from  our 
house.  After  a long  delay,  at  length  it  came,  drawn  by  a 
mule  and  a horse.  The  machine  had  but  two  wheels,  with 
a calash  to  cover  over  the  head,  and  was  driven  by  a bollero, 
who  was  distinguished  by  leather  breeches,  with  long  wide 
military  boots,  coming  over  the  knees,  short  jacket,  and  a 
glazed  hat.  The  bolleros  are  generally  mulattoes,  and  belong 
to  the  genus  irritable , being  exceedingly  choleric,  a feeling; 
perhaps  rendered  habitual  by  the  obstinacy  and  wayward- 
of  the  animals  they  drive.  As  it  was  now  past  six  o’clock, 
and  I had  a long  way  to  go  through  a deep  sandy  road,  I di- 
rected the  man  to  hasten,  and  he  set  offat  a reasonable  pace, 
till  he  arrived  at  the  bridge  of  Catete,  which  presents  a tri- 
fling ascent.  Here  the  mule  made  a dead  stand,  and  neither 
the  entreaties  nor  threats,  nor  the  more  convincing  argu- 
ment of  blows,  could  induce  him  to  make  any  other  move- 
ment, than  shaking  his  head  and  ears.  The  bollero  now 
ran  into  an  adjoining  house,  and  returned  with  a pole  as 
large  as  a bed-post,  which  he  applied  to  the  head  of  the 
mule  with  such  force,  that  he  instantly  felled  him  to 
the  ground ; the  horse  followed  in  the  harness,  and  the 
shafts  falling,  I was  thrown  head  foremost  into  the  sand. — 
Unwilling  to  witness  such  another  scene,  or  encounter  such 
another  fall,  I gave  up  the  attempt  at  reaching  Bota  Fogo, 
and,  with  a useless  monition  to  the  bollero  against  cruelty 
to  animals,  I left  the  group  at  the  bottom  of  the  bridge, 
and  walked  back  to  the  city. 

It  was  the  eve  of  All  Souls,  a festival  which  is  observed 
in  Catholic  countries  with  great  solemnity,  and  I was  glad 
to  avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  of  seeing  how  the  Brazil- 
ians conducted  it.  After  looking  into  various  chapels  and 
•hrines,  lighted  up  and  decorated,  in  the  principal  streets,  I 
came  to  a passage  which  opened  to  the  sea.  The  entrance- 


Escola  Brazileira,  Vol.  I.  p.  46. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


187 


to  this  was  a triumphal  arch,  illuminated  by  various  lamps, 
hung  round  it,  which  led  to  an  avenue  formed  by  large 
palm  trees,  transplanted  here  for  the  occasion,  on  the 
branches  of  which  lamps  were  also  suspended.  At  one  side 
was  a raised  orchestra,  where  a band  of  music  sat,  and  at 
the  other  a very  beautiful  little  chapel,  lined  with  satin  and 
crimson  velvet.  In  front  was  an  altar  of  artificial  flowers, 
raised  to  the  ceiling  with  silver  crosses,  and  other  orna- 
ments. A respectable  man,  seeing  I was  a stranger,  took 
me  in  courteously  by  the  hand,  and  told  me,  with  pride  and 
exultation,  that  it  was  the  shrine  of  N.  S.  da  Annuncia^ao. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  alley  was  a stage,  lighted  by 
mutes  holding  torches.  On  this  stage  they  were  exhibiting 
a dramatic  representation.  The  characters  were  Moors 
with  masks,  who  held  in  custody  two  Christians.  They  were 
very  grotesque  figures  of  an  old  man  and  woman,  in  antique 
European  costume.  The  woman  was  detained  a prisoner, 
and  the  old  man  attempted  to  gain  her  liberty,  first  by  en- 
treaties and  then  by  force.  This  latter  was  expressed  by 
a ballet,  in  which  swords  were  drawn  and  flourished,  and  a 
variety  of  evolutions  practised,  which  excited  much  applause 
among  a numerous  audience,  who  filled  the  avenues.  The 
plot,  a man  informed  me,  was  founded  on  some  legend  con- 
nected with  King  Sebastiao,  after  whom  the  city  of  Rio  was 
named,  and  whose  memory  they  still  keep  alive  by  many 
allusions.  This  exhibition  was  perfectly  gratuitous — no 
money  was  demanded  either  entering  or  returning,  and  the 
people  around  me  seemed  pleased  to  point  out  to  me  the 
particulars.  I left  it  still  going  on  at  eleven  o’clock. 

The  next  day  was  announced  in  the  journals  u Com- 
memoracao  dos  Defuntos,”  and  the  whole  city  were  occu- 
pied in  recalling  the  memory  of  their  departed  friends. 
The  commemoration  principally  takes  place  in  the  great 
church  of  Francisco  de  Paula  ; and  I proceeded  there  be- 
tween nine  and  ten  in  the  morning.  This  church,  called 
also  Caritas,  is  distinguished  all  over  Brazil,  as  well  for  the 
miracles  the  image  of  its  patron  performs  in  healing  the 
living,  as  for  its  sanctity  in  preserving  the  hones  of  the 
dead,  whom  S.  Francisco  could  not  save.  I entered  by  a 
long  aisle  at  the  side  of  the  chapel,  the  walls  of  which  were 
covered  with  tablets  and  pictures,  representing  sick  persons 
in  bed,  and  people  suffering  under  various  accidents,  in  all 
which  S.  Francisco  appears  in  the  back  ground,  descend- 
ing from  the  sky,  healing  or  rescuing  the  persons.  They 


188 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


wore  all  labelled  “Milagre  que  fez  S.  Francisco  de  Pau- 
la.* One  of  these  exhibited  a stone  extracted  from  a man, 
the  size  and  shape  of  which  were  painted  on  the  board. 
Beside  these  were  waxen  legs,  arms,  heads,  breasts,  and 
other  parts  of  the  body,  stained  with  blood  and  discolored 
with  sores,  in  a very  natural  though  disgusting  manner  : 
but,  as  anatomical  representations  of  morbid  limbs,  they 
were  really  excellent  imitations.  A large  portrait  of  the 
saint  himself,  depicted  him  as  an  old  man  with  a long  staff. 
His  only  garment  was  a cloak,  through  which  appeared 
his  naked  breast,  inscribed  with  the  word  u Caritas.”  At- 
tached to  the  building  are  long  corridores,  on  each  side  of 
which  are  apartments  for  the  sick,  who  are  brought  here  to 
be  healed  by  the  saint’s  intercession. 

From  the  examination  of  these  votivce  tabellce , I entered 
the  chapel  to  visit  the  tombs.  It  was  crowded  with  people 
of  all  ranks  dressed  in  their  best  clothes,  and  a continued 
concourse  was  passing  in  and  out.  At  the  side  altar  a 
priest  was  celebrating  mass,  and  on  his  turning  round  I 
perceived  he  was  a negro.  He  was  a tall  portly  man,  and 
his  black  visage  formed  a strong  contrast  to  his  snow-white 
vestments.  The  floor  of  the  church  was  filled  with  women, 
sitting  with  their  feet  drawn  under  them,  on  small  carpets 
of  varied  hues,  the  greater  number  of  them  covered  with 
black  veils.  This  had  quite  the  appearance  of  oriental 
usage,  and  I was  informed  was  adopted  from  the  Moors, 
who  first  introduced  it  into  Spain  and  Portugal.  Their  at- 
tention seemed  fixed  on  some  internal . object,  and  they 
were  all  moving  their  lips  in  silent  prayer,  recommending 
the  souls  of  their  departed  friends  to  mercy. 

Through  the  dense  mass  of  women  on  the  floor  was  a 
narrow  passage,  along  which  a continual  current  of  people 
was  flowing.  I entered  it,  and  passed  with  them  into  a 
large  garden  surrounded  with  cloisters.  Here  an  immense 
number  of  cases  and  boxes,  of  different  shapes  and  sizes, 
were  ranged  against  the  walls  and  in  the  garden,  some  of 
them  as  large  as  mausoleums,  and  some  not  larger  than  tea- 
chests.  All  had  locks  and  keys,  and  were  labelled  in  front 
with  different  inscriptions.  On  one  was  “ Aqui  jazem  os 
ossos  de  nosso  irmao  Joao  Marguida  dos  Neves.”  On 
another,  u Aqui  seccao  os  ossos.”  On  another,  “ Orai  por 


* A miracle  which  St.  Francisco  De  Paula  wrought. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


189 


nos  irmaos.*  These  boxes  literally  contained  the  bones  of 
the  persons  indicated  by  the  inscription.  The  practice  is, 
to  immerse  the  body  of  the  dead  in  quicklime  ; and  when 
the  flesh  is  consumed  by  its  causticity,  the  bones  are  col- 
lected, scraped,  and  cleaned,  and  deposited  together  in  a 
box,  with  a lock  and  key,  which  is  then  closed  and  the  key 
delivered  to  the  family.  These  cases  have  no  resemblance 
to  coffins.  They  are  of  different  shapes  ; and  with  their 
ornamented  exterior,  the  smaller  ones  rather  resemble  a 
lady’s  dressing-box.  They  are  deposited  in  dry  receptacles 
made  in  the  walls  of  the  cloisters,  or  other  parts  of  the 
church  ; and  on  this  annual  festival  are  brought  out,  and 
the  living  friends  come  with  their  keys  and  inspect  them. 

Against  the  walls  were  raised  shrines,  on  which  some  of 
these  mortuary  boxes  were  laid.  They  were  gaudily  orna- 
mented with  drapery  of  gold  and  silver  tissue,  worked  on  satin 
and  velvet,  and  made  a gay  and  rich  display,  altogether 
discordant  with  the  solemnity  of  the  occasion. 

The  whole  exhibition  was  strongly  contrasted  with  a simi- 
lar ceremony  which  I have  witnessed  among  the  Armeni- 
ans and  Irish.  These  people,  on  the  day  of  All  Souls, 
assemble  at  the  tombs  of  their  families  in  the  open  burying 
ground,  without  parade  or  ornament,  and  by  the  help  of  a 
strong  imagination,  seem  actually  absorbed  in  holding  a 
visionary  communication  with  the  departed.  This  simple 
observance  with  them  is  affecting  and  comparatively  ration- 
al ; but  the  indifference  and  gaudy  display  of  the  ceremony 
here,  was  a mere  exhibition  of  the  dead,  to  form  an  idle 
pageant  for  the  living. 

From  the  chapel  of  St.  Francisco,  I proceeded  to  visit 
several  others,  and  I will  condense  here  for  you  the  result 
of  observations  which  I made  at  various  subsequent  periods. 
The  edifice  of  the  Candelaria  stands  in  a street  of  the  same 
name.  It  is  so  called  from  an  important  service  in  the 
Catholic  religion,  of  consecrating  candles  for  its  service,  on 
a festival,  still  called  in  England  Candlemas-day.  This  is 
the  largest  church  in  Brazil,  but  it  is  erected  in  a small 
cross  street,  which  is  too  narrow  to  permit  a view  of  the 
front  of  the  building,  when  you  are  in  it,  and  it  cannot  be 
seen  out  of  it.  It  is  proposed,  however,  to  throw  down  the 

* “ Here  lie  the  bones  of  our  brother” — “Here  dry  the  bones 

Pray  for  our  brothers,” 


190 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


intermediate  houses,  and  build  a square,  open  to  the  Rua 
Direita,  of  which  this  church  will  form  one  side.  It  pre- 
sents a noble  facade  of  hewn  granite,  ornamented  with 
mouldings  and  entablatures,  and  flanked  by  two  high  towers. 
They  have  rendered  it  mean,  however,  by  whitewashing,  as 
they  have  the  front  of  almost  every  other  in  Rio.  It  is  not 
yet  finished,  though  it  was  commenced  fifty,  years  ago,  and 
was  intended  for  the  cathedral  of  the  diocese.  When  I 
visited  it,  a number  of  negroes,  just  imported,  were  under- 
going the  rite  of  baptism,  for  which  purpose  it  is  the  church 
generally  selected. 

The  church  of  the  Rosario  stands  in  a street  of  the 
same  name,  and  had  been  the  cathedral,  till  the  dignity  was 
transferred  to  the  royal  chapel.  The  body  of  the  building 
is  a great  cemetery.  It  was  literally  floored  with  corpses  ; 
and  people  have  told  me,  it  was  impossible  at  one  time  to 
walk  up  or  down,  without  tripping  over  heads  or  toes  stick- 
ing out  of  the  ground,  they  were  so  negligently  and  super- 
ficially laid  in  the  earth.  This  very  revolting  and  unwhole- 
some state  of  the  church,  however,  is  corrected,  and  it  is 
one  of  the  many  nuisances  that  have  been  removed  since 
the  revolution.  The  floor  is  now  flagged  over,  but  the 
bodies  are  still  deposited  beneath. 

Among  the  striking  peculiarities  of  Rio  are  the  churches 
and  monasteries  which  crown  the  hills,  inviting  the  passen- 
ger to  ascend  from  the  murky  street  below,  to  breathe  the 
purer  and  freer  air  in  which  they  are  situated.  The  prin- 
cipal of  these  is  the  Convent  of  Sam  Bento,  or  St.  Benedict. 
It  is  delightfully  situated  just  over  the  sea,  looking  down  on 
the  Ilha  das  Cobras,  and  commanding  a magnificent  view 
of  the  whole  city  and  bay.  It  was  one  of  the  first  religious 
edifices  erected  in  Rio  ; and  it  appears,  by  the  inscription 
over  the  gate,  to  have  been  repaired  in  1671,  and  has  all 
the  marks  of  an  early  and  rude  structure.  It  is  exceeding- 
ly strong  and  massive  ; the  lower  part,  with  Windows  closed 
by  thick  iron  bars,  resembles  a gloomy  prison  ; but  on  as- 
cending a stone  staircase,  you  arrive  at  a long  corridor, 
terminated  at  each  end  by  a spacious  hall  or  pavilion,  which 
commands  three  distinct  and  lovely  views — one  over  the 
city,  another  up  the  bay,  and  a third  down  to  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  this  pros- 
pect, or  the  cheerful  scenes  expanded  before  you,  while  the 
ever  moving  picture  of  ships  and  boats,  and  the  busy  hum, 
of  men  below  in  the  city,  give  an  additional  interest  to  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


191 


scenic  representation  of  nature.  The  halls  and  corridor 
are  lined  and  ceiled  with  jacaranda  wood,  richly  carved  in 
high  relief,  and  susceptible  of  a bright  polish  ; and  they 
are  hung  with  pictures,  by  native  artists,  detailing  the 
different  events  of  the  saint’s  life,  whose  relics  are  preserved 
in  the  chapel,  and  are  of  great  reputed  sanctity. 

One  of  the  pavilions  opens  into  the  large  library,  where 
there  are  collected  about  six  thousand  volumes,  of  a very 
select  and  valuable  character.  It  is  open  to  the  public 
every  day,  from  nine  in  the  morning  till  late  in  the  evening, 
with  the  exception  of  the  dinner  hour,  from  one  till  two. 
I was  received  with  great  urbanity  by  the  good  ecclesias- 
tics I met  here,  who  readily  procured  for  me  the  books  I 
required,  and  among  the  rest  the  Ethiopia  Resgatada, 
which  I could  find  nowhere  else,  and  I was  cordially  invit- 
ed to  use  the  books  as  long  as  I remained  in  Rio. 

The  revenues,  of  the  convent  are  very  large,  consisting 
of  fazendas,  or  farms,  in  the  country,  but  particularly  in  the 
Ilha  do  Governador,  the  largest  island  in  the  bay,  which  al- 
most wholly  belongs  to  it.  A proposal,  however,  had  been 
made  in  the  chamber  of  deputies,  to  alienate  this  with  other 
conventual  property,  and  it  is  supposed  it  will  be  carried  at 
some  future  session.  In  the  mean  time  a regiment  of  sol- 
diers occupy  two  wings  of  the  edifice,  which  they  have  com- 
pletely converted  into  a barrack  ; and  the  brotherhood,  with 
the  exception  of  the  principal  and  the  librarian,  have  retired 
to  the  Ilha. 

It  is  said  that  Dom  John,  on  his  first  arrival  at  Rio,  pro- 
posed to  take  up  his  residence  here,  and  convert  it  into  a 
palace,  for  which  its  lovely  situation  particularly  recom- 
mended it  ; but  the  ecclesiastics  at  the  time  preserved  it  for 
their  own  use,  by  giving  out  that  it  had  been  struck  with 
lightning,  and  shaken  by  an  earthquake,  to  which  accidents 
its  elevated  situation  rendered  it  apparently  very  liable. 
Even  the  hint  of  such  a thing,  was  sufficient  to  deter  the 
timid  monarch,  and  he  remained  in  his  palace  below  till  he 
was  accommodated  at  S.  Christovao. 

At  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  town  stands  another  ele- 
vated convent,  on  a hill  looking  down  on  the  city,  the  larg- 
est and  finest  in  Rio  : this  is  the  convent  of  S.  Antonio. 
It  is  approached  by  a broad  flagged  way  on  a steep  inclined 
plain,  which  leads  to  an  extensive  platform,  surrounded  by 
a parapet,  on  which  I have  often  sat  to  command  the  fine 
prospect  around  ; but  it  is  not  equal  to  that  of  S.  Bento. 


192 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


One  side  of  the  platform  is  formed  by  the  facade  of  the 
building,  which  runs  to  a considerable  length.  The  inte- 
rior consists  of  two  large  chapels,  with  an  extensive  cloister 
below.  Round  the  latter  is  a variety  of  small  chapels,  ded- 
icated to  different  saints,  and  among  them,  one  on  the  pa- 
tron, S.  Antonio,  whose  birth  and  death  is  represented  in 
statuary.  In  the  chapter-house  are  deposited  the  remains 
of  General  Forties,  who  was  of  a distinguished  Scotch  fami- 
ly, of  the  Catholic  persuasion,  and  was  known  in  Europe 
as  the  man  who  had  the  encounter  with  Wilkes,  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  North  Briton.  He  accompanied  the  royal  family 
in  their  emigration  to  Brazil,  where  he  died  in  May,  1808. 
In  the  passage  round  is  a succession  of  vaults,  covered  over 
with  boards  or  flags,  with  apertures  to  insert  an  instrument, 
to  raise  them  up  whenever  it  is  necessary  to  deposit  a body. 

Beside  the  cloister  is  the  refectory.  The  benches  are 
ranged  along  the  wall,  which  is  glazed  with  Hutch  tiles, 
giving  a remarkably  fresh  and  cleanly  look  to  the  hall,  and 
imparting  a considerable  sense  of  coolness.  From  hence 
a broad  staircase  leads  to  the  corridor  above,  which  com- 
municates with  the  apartments  of  the  brotherhood.  On  the 
summit  is  a tiled  yard,  on  one  side  of  which  is  the  convent- 
ual library,  consisting  of  three  thousand  volumes,  principal- 
ly the  works  of  the  early  fathers  of  the  Greek  and  Latin 
churches — St.  Chrysostom,  St.  Jerome,  and  others.  It  is 
not  so  valuable  either  in  extent  or  selection  as  that  of  S. 
Bento,  and  it  is  not  a subject  of  regret  that  it  is  not  open  to 
the  public;  but  I was  given  to  understand  I might  have 
access  to  it.  Adjoining  the  convent  is  a large  hospital. 
The  whole  establishment  is  in  the  highest  order  and  repair. 
It  is  the  finest  and  the  most  esteemed  in  Rio  ; the  chapels 
the  most  frequented,  and  the  shows  and  processions  the 
most  magnificent  ; yet  it  is  supported  only  by  public  charity. 

The  brothers  are  not  allowed  to  hold  any  property,  and 
this  is  recognized  by  a curious  document.  The  Francis- 
cans had  originally  the  chapel  on  the  sea-shore  at  S.  Luzia  ; 
but  disliking  that  situation,  and  falling  out  with  their  neigh- 
bors the  Jesuits,  whose  convent  was  beside  them,  they  re- 
moved from  it  ; and  in  1608,  the  camera  granted  them  their 
present  situation  by  a deed  of  gift,  which  specified,  that  the 
Franciscans  having  chosen  this  situation,  they  were  allowed 
to  occupy  it  ; but  as  they  were  incapable  of  holding  any 
property  themselves,  it  was  conferred  on  the  pope  and  the 
church  of  Rome.  It  was  in  this  convent  I visited  the  bish- 
op of  Anamuria. 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL. 


193 


On  the  hill  opposite  to  that  of  S.  Antonio,  stands  the  con- 
vent of  Santa  Theresa.  The  Brazilians  are,  very  judicious- 
ly, not  partial  to  convents,  particularly  for  females,  whose 
celibacy  they  consider  as  highly  injurious  to  the  growing 
prosperity  of  a country  whose  greatest  want  is  population. 
There  are  therefore  but  two  convents  of  nuns  in  Rio,  one 
of  which  is  this  of  Santa  Theresa,  limited  to  twentyone 
sisters,  and  it  cannot  admit  more  than  that  number.  Its 
situation  exceeds  in  beauty  even  that  of  S.  Bento  ; and  it  is 
impossible  to  conceive  any  better  adapted  for  sublime  or 
serious  contemplation.  The  edifice  is  not  surrounded  with 
walls  and  paved  courts,  as  those  of  the  others  ; but  its  white 
facade  rises  from  a green  sward,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill, 
encircled  by  a natural  plantation  of  aromatic  and  flowering 
shrubs,  from  whence  it  looks  down  on  the  rich  and  varied 
scenery  presented  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  As  our 
house  was  situated  near  the  base  of  the  hill,  I climbed  it, 
morning  ami  evening,  and  never  without  increasing  pleasure. 

Crowning  another  hill  which  projected  into  the  sea,'  ap- 
parently just  under  Santa  Theresa,  is  the  pretty  church  of 
N.  S.  da  Gloria.  It  is  an  octagon  edifice,  with  a portico 
and  steeple,  and  highly  ornaments  the  beautiful  eminence 
on  which  it  stands.  Here  it  was  that  the  empress  paid  her 
homage  to  propitiate  a favorable  accoucehment:  here  she 
devoted  her  first-born  to  her  pratroness  ; and  here  the  em- 
peror is  seen  every  Saturday,  kneeling  at  the  foot  of  the 
altar. 

Opposite  the  Gloria,  on  a high  promontory  rising  abrupt- 
ly from  the  middle  of  the  bay,  is  the  church  of  Boa  Viagem. 
This  is  distinguished  for  being  as  propitious  to  mariners  as 
the  Gloria  to  mothers.  They  come  here  to  make  their  vows 
on  going  to  sea.  Their  vows  consist  in  consecrating  their 
equipage  to  the  church,  if  they  return  safe.  Here  may  be 
seen  sails,  cables,  anchors,  and  other  tackle,  suspended 
round  the  walls,  as  the  votivae  tabellse  of  those  who  have 
made  a prosperous  voyage,  under  the  protection  of  this  pa- 
tron. As  the  good  fathers  could  not  use  these  things  them- 
selves, they  sold  them  to  those  that  would  ; and,  as  there 
was  a certain  degree  of  sanctity  annexed  to  them,  and  they 
evinced  a striking  proof  of  supernatural  interference  in  fa- 
vor of  those  who  had  used  them,  by  their  safe  return,  they 
were  in  great  request,  and  brought  higher  prices  than  or- 
dinary tackle.  A circumstance,  however,  happened,  some 
years  before,  which  considerably  weakened  the  faith  of  the 
17 


194 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


people  in  such  things.  A boat,  loaded  with  some  property 
of  this  kind,  belonging  to  the  convent,  and  in  which  it  was 
supposed  its  patron  took  a particular  interest,  was  upset  in 
a squall,  on  her  way  to  Rio,  and  every  person  on  board 
perished.  This  misfortune  was  at  first  attributed  to  some 
misconduct  of  the  clergy  of  the  church,  which  offended  its 
patron  ; but  as  no  such  thing  was  known  or  acknowledged, 
the  votaries  began  to  suspect,  if  he  could  not  protect  his 
own,  he  would  not  protect  them  ; their  confidence  in  the 
efficacy  of  vows  at  this  place  was  greatly  shaken,  and  it  is 
not  so  much  frequented  now  as  formerly.  The  practice, 
however,  is  recommended  by  the  high  authority  of  Colum- 
bus, who,  on  his  return  from  his  first  voyage  to  the  new 
world,  went  to  the  next  shrine  he  found  after  his  landing,  to 
make  his  votive  offerings. 

Besides*these  churches  .and  convents,  there  are  others 
distinguished  in  various  ways,  That  of  St.  Domingo  is 
allocated  to  the  blacks,  who  form  a society  for  its  support, 
and  its  ministers  are  negroes.  ' That  of  Santa  Rita  is  called 
the  malefactor’s  chapel  : here  condemned  criminals  stop,  on 
their  way  to  execution,  and  receive  the  last  rites  and  con- 
solations of  their  religion  ; they  remain  in  front  of  the  church 
till  the  elevation  of  the  host,  and  then  pass  on  to  their  final 
doom. 


CHAP.  XVI. 

Nunnery  of  Ajuda. — Mode  of  Communication  with  People  outside. — Attend  the  Pro- 
fession of  a Nun. — Particulars  of  the  affecting  Solemnity. — Levity  of  the  Brazilians 
present. — Recolhimentos  for  misconducted  Wives. — For  Female  Orphans. — Com- 
mutation of  Tithes. — Very  injurious  to  the  present  Clergy. — Episcopal  Establish- 
ment.— Brazilians  hostile  to  monastic  Institutions. — Proposition  in  the  Chambers 
for  Marriage  of  the  Clergy. — Benedictines  own  many  Houses  in  Rio,  and  are  kind 
Landlords. — Supposed  Hostility  of  the  Minister  of  the  Interior  to  the  Clergy,  and 
why. — Rather  a Friend  to  the  Character  of  the  Church. — Irmandades. — Their  great 
Utility  and  extensive  Charity. — Native  Clergy,  why  not  learned. — Admission  of 
Blacks  to  Holy  Orders. — Extraordinary  Contrast  with  our  West-Indies. 

The  great  convent  of  the  Ajuda,  receives  an  unlimited 
number  of  nuns,  though  they  are  generally  confined  to  twen- 
tyeight,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  edifices  in  Rio.  It  runs 
the  whole  length  of  a street,  and  is  so  divested  of  ornament, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


195 


that  it  looks  like  a huge  barn  or  prison  ; yet  it  is  but  half 
built.  It  has  one  front  to  the  sea,  and  another  to  the  street, 
and  contains  two  rows  of  dormitories.  Under  and  against 
the  high  wall,  next  the  sea,  is  erected  the  police  barracks, 
and,  by  rather  an  odd  coincidence,  the  sisterhood  sleep  on 
one  side  of  the  wall,  and  a regiment  of  profligate  soldiers 
on  the  other.  The  chapel  is  immensely  large,  and  very 
sombre  and  gloomy,  the  greatest  and  the  most  unadorned 
religious  edifice  in  Rio.  The  end  opposite  the  altar  is  form- 
ed by  a screen  of  iron  railings,  with  very  thick  bars,  and 
narrow  apertures,  extending  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling,  be- 
hind which  the  nuns  assemble  during  divine  service. 

At  the  end  of  the  chapel  is  a large  quadrangle,  entered 
by  a massive  gateway,  surrounded  by  three  stories  of  grat- 
ed windows.  Here  female  negro  hawkers  and  pedlars  come 
with  their  goods,  and  expose  them  in  the  court-yard  below. 
The  nuns,  from  their  grated  windows  above,  see  what  they 
like,  and,  letting  down  a cord,  the  article  is  fastened  to  it  ; it  is 
then  drawn  up  and  examined,  and,  if  approved  of,  the  price 
is  let  down.  Some  that  I saw  in  the  act  of  buying  and  selling 
in  this  way,  were  very  merry,  joking  and  laughing  with  the 
blacks  below,  and  did  not  seem  at  all  indisposed  to  do  the 
same  with  my  companion.  In  three  of  the  lower  windows, 
on  a level  with  the  court-yard,  are  revolving  cupboards,  like 
half-barrels,  and  at  the  back  of  each  is  a plate  of  tin,  per- 
forated like  the  top  of  a nutmeg-grater.  The  nuns  of  this 
convent  are  celebrated  for  making  doces,  or  sweet  confec- 
tionary, which  people  purchase.  There  is  a bell  which  the 
purchaser  applies  to,  and  a nun  peeps  through  the  perforat- 
ed tin  ; she  then  lays  the  dish  on  a shelf  of  the  revolving 
cupboard,  and  turns  it  inside  out  ; the  dish  is  taken,  the 
price  laid  in  its  place,  and  it  is  turned  in.  While  we  stood 
there,  the  invisible  lady-warder  asked  for  a pinch  of  snuff ; 
the  box^tfas  laid  down  in  the  same  way,  and  turned  in  and 
out. 

This  convent  is  distinguished  as  the  burying-place  of  the 
royal  family.  The  ashes  of  Dona  Maria  I.,  and  those  of 
her  sister  Miriam,  are  deposited  here;  and  here  also  repose 
the  remains  of  the  good  and  amiable  Leopoldina. 

There  are  so  few  of  the  sisterhood  in  Rio,  and  their  calm 
and  temperate  lives,  in  a mild  and  salubrious  climate,  are 
such  causes  of  health,  that  they  survive  to  a very  advanced 
age,  and  a vacancy  rarely  occurs  for  a new  sister:  profess- 
ing a nun,  therefore,  is  a rare  occurrence  here.  An  event, 


196 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


however,  of  this  kind  now  took  place  ; I was  careful  to  be 
- present  at  it,  and  I went  on  the  Sunday  appointed,  with  a 
friend. 

The  street  in  which  the  convent  is  situated,  was  filled 
with  blacks  and  mulattos,  who,  as  is  usual  in  all  religious 
festivals,  were  exploding  fire-works  before  the  door.  The 
large  church  was  crowded  to  excess,  but  the  middle  of  the 
aisle  was  kept  open  by  two  files  of  soldiers,  extending  from 
the  grating  to  the  chancel.  Beside  the  grating,  a tempo- 
rary gallery  was  erected  for  a choir  of  singers  and  musicians, 
as  they  have  no  organ  in  the  chapel,  and  into  this  we  were 
courteously  admitted.  The  curtain  which  usually  hangs  in- 
side the  grating,  was  withdrawn,  and  the  interior  was  dis- 
played. It  was  a large  apartment,  corresponding*  with  the 
chapel,  and  here  the  sisterhood  were  seated,  with  their  veils 
thrown  on  one  side,  so  that  their  faces  were  visible.  Their 
dress  consisted  of  a long  black  garment,  commencing  with  a 
peak  projecting  below  the  eyes  down  the  forehead,  pinned 
close  to  the  ears,  and  falling  to  the  feet  : under  it  was 
folded  the  white  veil.  The  abbadessa,  who  sat  in  front,  was 
a full,  fair,  comely  woman,  with  a star  on  her  breast,  and  a 
large  golden  cross  hanging  to  a rosary. 

In  the  grating  was  a small  wicket,  about  eighteen  inches 
square.  It  was  now  open,  and  a cushion  and  some  handker- 
chiefs of  embroidered  muslin  were  laid  on  the  lower  bars  ; 
and  before  it,  on  the  outside,  was  alow  throne,  or  stool,  with 
four  large  gilt  balls  at  the  corners,  and  a cushion  between 
them.  When  the  usual  mass  of  the  day  was  ended,  the 
officiating  priests  retired  from  the  altar,  and  the  nuns  from 
their  apartments,  and  then  the  peculiar  ceremony  com- 
menced. 

The  young  lady  about  to  be  professed  was  the  daughter 
of  one  of  the  rich  proprietaries  d’Engenho,  or  owners  of  a 
sugar  plantation,  who  are  generally  the  most  opulent  peo- 
ple in  the  country.*  Her  name  was  Maria  Luzia,  aged 

* She  was  also  distinguished  in  other  respects  by  her  connexions. 
Her  aunt  was  the  celebrated  Maria  Bangu,  who  made  a noise  as  the- 
richest  heiress  in  Brazil,  and  had  as  many  suitors  as  Miss  Tilney 
Long.  She  rejected  them  all,  and  formed  an  attachment  for  her  own 
feitor,  or  steward,  with  whom  she  lived  unmarried  till  her  death,  and 
then  left  him  all  her  property.  He  became  a great  favorite  of  the 
emperor,  and  was  created  Visconde  de  Gericino,  from  his  estate  which 
joined  Santa  Cruz.  His  brother,  Philisberto  Caldos,  was  one  of  those, 
sent  with  the  young  queen,  and  visited  England  with  he*. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


197 


twentytwo.  She  resolved  to  take  the  veil,  entirely  against 
the  wishes  of  her  friends,  who  were  anxious  to  establish  her 
respectably  in  life,  in  a rank  to  which  her  expectations  en- 
titled her  ; but  she  resisted  the  attractions,  and  voluntarily 
renounced  the  world  in  the  prime  of  youth,  and  possessed 
of  considerable  beauty  and  fortune.  This  propensity  in 
Brazil  is  not  at  all  uncommon.  In  the  convent  of  the  Ajuda, 
were  two  sisters  of  the  same  family,  already  professed,  and 
two  more  as  novices,  immediately  to  take  the  veil. 

This  young  person  had  been  previously  examined  by  the 
bishop  ; whether  she  had  completed  her  twentyfifth  year, 
for  then  she  would  have  been  of  a competent  age  to  decide 
for  herself,  without  the  intervention  of  friends  : whether  it 
was  with  her  own  free  consent  that  she  proposed  to  renounce 
the  world  ; and  whether  she  designed  rigidly  to  observe  her 
vows,  and  preserve  her  chastity.  Having  answered  all 
these  things  in  the  affirmative,  certain  of  the  sisterhood,  and 
of  her  own  relations,  were  appointed  as  her  sponsors,  to  ac- 
company her  during  her  profession. 

The  novice  professes  in  two  ways  ; either  behind  the 
grating,  or  by  advancing  up  the  church  to  the  altar.  The 
former  mode  is  the  rule  of  this  convent.  The  arch-presbyter 
appeared  with  the  bishop,  attended  by  other  clergy,  at  the 
altar  ; and  at  the  same  time  the  nuns  entered  their  apart- 
ment below  the  grating.  The  arch-presbyter  then  advancing 
down  the  aisle  to  the  grating,  applied  himself  to  the  wicket, 
and  said,  u Prudent  virgin,  trim  your  lamp  : behold  your 
Spouse  approaches  ; come  forth  and  meet  him.”  The 
novice  hearing  the  words  of  the  arch-presbyter,  lighted  a 
torch  which  she  held  in  her  hand,  and,  accompanied  by  two 
nuns  already  professed,  advanced  to  the  wicket,  while  the 
bishop  in  his  robes  at  the  same  time  approached  from  the 
altar,  with  his  mitre  and  crozier,  and  sat  on  the  low  throne 
placed  before  it.  The  arch-presbyter  then  said : “ Most 
reverend  father,  our  holy  mother,  the  Church,  demands  that 
you  should  bless  this  virgin,  and  espouse  her  to  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  God.”  The  bishop  demanded, 
u Is  she  worthy  ?”  the  arch-presbyter  replied,  iC  As  far  as 
human  frailty  permits  me  to  know,  I believe,  and  certify, 
that  she  is  worthy.”  The  bishop  then  turned  to  the  con- 
gregation, and  said  with  a loud  voice,  “ God  and  our  Saviuor 
aiding,  we  have  chosen  this  present  virgin,  to  bless  and 
consecrate  her  as  the  spouse  of  Christ.”  The  arch-presby- 
ter now  chanted  Vcni — u Come,”  and  the  virgin  advauced 
17* 


198 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


to  him  singing,  u ancT  now  I follow  with  my  whole  heart:  77 
she  then  came  forward  between  her  sponsors,  and  knelt  at 
the  aperture  before  the  bishop. 

She  seemed  very  lovely  ; with  an  unusually  sweet,  gen- 
tle, and  pensive  countenance.  She  did  not  look  particu- 
larly or  deeply  affected  ; but  when  she  sung  her  responses, 
there  was  something  exceedingly  mournful  in  the  soft,  trem- 
ulous, and  timid  tones  of  her  voice.  The  bishop  now  ex- 
horted her  to  make  a public  profession  of  her  vows  before 
the  congregation,  and  said,  “ Will  you  persevere  in  your 
purpose  of  holy  chastity  ?”  She  blushed  deeply,  and,  with 
a downcast  look,  lowly,  but  firmly  answered,  “ I will.”  He 
again  said,  more  distinctly,  “ Ho  you  promise  to  preserve 
it  ?”  and  she  replied  more  emphatically,  “ I do  promise.” 
The  bishop  said,  u Thanks  be  to  God  : ” and  she  bent  for- 
ward and  reverently  kissed  his  hand,  while  he  asked  her, 
u Will  you  now  be  blessed  and  consecrated  ? ” She  replied, 
“ Oh  ! I wish  it.” 

The  habiliments  in  which  she  was  hereafter  to  be  cloth- 
ed, were  brought  forward,  and  were  sanctified  by  the  as- 
persion of  holy  water  : then  followed  several  prayers  to  God, 
that,  u As  he  had  blessed  the  garments  of  Aaron,  with  oint- 
ment which  flowed  from  his  head  to  his  beard,  so  he  would 
now  bless  the  garment  of  his  servant,  with  the  copious  dew 
of  his  benediction.”  When  the  garment  was  thus  aspersed 
and  blessed,  the  girl  retired  with  it  ; and  having  laid  aside 
the  dress  in  which  she  had  appeared,  she  returned,  arrayed 
in  her  new  attire,  except  her  veil.  A gold  ring  was  next 
provided,  and  consecrated  with  a prayer,  that  she  who  wore 
it  u might  be  fortified  with  celestial  virtue,  to  preserve  a 
pure  faith,  and  incorrupt  fidelity  to  her  spouse,  Jesus 
Christ.”  He  last  took  the  veil,  and  her  female  attendants 
having  uncovered  her  head,  he  threw  it  over  her,  so  that  it 
fell  on  her  shoulders  and  bosom,  and  said,  “ Receive  this 
sacred  veil,  under  the  shadow  of  which  you  may  learn  to 
despise  the  world,  and  submit  yourself  truly,  and  with  all 
humility  of  heart,  to  your  Spouse  : ” to  which  she  sung  a 
response,  in  a very  sweet,  soft,  and  touching  voice  : “ He 
has  placed  this  veil  before  my  face,  that  I should  see  no 
lover  but  himself.” 

The  bishop  now  kindly  took  her  hand,  and  held  it  while 
the  following  hymn  was  chaunted  by  the  choir  with  great 
harmony: — -u  Beloved  Spouse,  come — the  winter  is  pass- 
ed— the  turtle  sings,  and  the  blooming  vines  are  redolent 
of  summer.” 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


199 


A crown,  a necklace,  and  other  female  ornaments,  were 
now  taken  by  the  bishop  and  separately  blessed  ; and  the 
girl  bending  forward,  he  placed  them  on  her  head  and  neck, 
praying  that  she  might  be  thought  worthy  “ to  be  enrolled 
into  the  society  of  the  hundred  and  fortyfour  thousand  vir- 
gins, who  preserved  their  chastity,  and  did  not  mix  with 
the  society  of  impure  women.” 

Last  of  all,  he  placed  the  ring  on  the  middle  finger  of  her 
right  hand,  and  solemnly  said,  “ So  I marry  you  to  Jesus 
Christ,  who  will  henceforth  be  your  protector.  Receive 
this  ring,  the  pledge  of  your  faith,  that  you  may  be  called 
the  spouse  of  God.”  She  fell  on  her  knees,  and  sung,  “ I 
am  married  to  him  whom  angels  serve,  whose  beauty  the 
sun  and  moon  admire:  ” then  rising,  and  showing  with  ex- 
ultation her  right  hand,  she  said,  emphatically,  as  if  to  im- 
press it  on  the  attention  of  the  congregation,  “ My  Lord 
has  wedded  me  with  this  ring,  and  decorated  me  with  a 
crown  as  his  spouse.  I here  renounce  and  despise  all 
earthly  ornaments  for  his  sake,  whom  alone  I see,  whom 
alone  I love,  in  whom  alone  I trust,  and  to  whom  alone  I give 
all  my  affections.  My  heart  hath  uttered  a good  word  : I 
speak  of  the  deed  I have  done  for  my  King.” 

Having  thus  renounced  all  earthly  attachments,  and  laid 
aside  all  human  objects  of  affection,  she  stood  before  the  con- 
gregation dressed  in  her  wedding  robes,  the  garb  of  her  celes- 
tial Spouse.  The  bishop  then  pronounced  a general  benedic- 
tion, and  retired  up  to  the  altar  ; while  the  nun  professed 
was  borne  off  between  her  friends,  with  tapers  lighting,  and 
garlands  waving.  The  curtain  was  then  drawn,  and  the 
ceremony  ended. 

I thought  this  whole  service  exceedingly  affecting  and 
beautiful ; and  it  left  a strong  impression  on  my  mind,  not- 
withstanding the  many  circumstances  attendant  on  it,  which 
weakened  the  character  of  its  solemnity.  Outside  was  a 
crowd  of  blacks  and  mulattos,  shouting,  laughing,  and 
hallooing,  during  the  whole  service  ; and  discharging  squibs 
and  crackers,  which  were  distinctly  seen  and  heard  by  the 
congregation.  Nor  did  the  people  inside  regard  it  as  a 
thing  of  any  interest  ; but  on  this,  as  on  other  occasions  of 
ceremonial  observances,  the  Brazilians  seemed  to  have  lost 
all  impression  of  sanctity.  Those  about  us  laughed  and 
joked  on  it,  with  an  unbecoming  levity  ; and  I believe  my 
companion  and  I,  were  the  only  persons  in  the  gallery,  who 
seemed  to  feel  any  respect  for  the  time  or  the  place.  One 


200 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


of  them  openly  condemned  the  thing  as  a usage  that  must 
be  abolished.  u I am  in  a country,”  said  he,  tC  where  our 
greatest  want  is  people  ; it  is  absurd,  as  it  is  unjust,  to  shut 
up  a number  of  females  from  the  intercourse  of  social  life, 
who  would  make  the  best  wives  and  mothers  ; and  so  not 
only  counteract  the  great  law  of  Providence,  ‘ increase  and 
multiply,’  but  compel  the  people,  in  order  to  fulfil  it,  to  co- 
habit with  their  nearest  relations.” 

Besides  the  convent  of  the  Ajuda  and  Theresa,  there 
are  two  Recolhementos,  or  retirements  for  females  : one 
where  husbands  place  their  wives,  of  whose  conduct  they 
have  reason  to  be  dissatisfied  ; the  other  for  female  orphans 
till  they  meet  with  suitable  matches,  or  are  placed  out  in 
eligible  situations  ; and  a certain  number  of  them  are  por- 
tioned every  year.  On  a particular  day,  the  visitation  of 
S.  Elizabeth,  they  are  allowed  to  receive  visits,  when  young 
tradesmen  and  others  in  humble  life  attend,  and  select  a 
wife  for  themselves.  They  must,  however,  produce  re- 
spectable attestations  as  to  their  moral  character,  and  their 
abilities  to  support  them,  and  then  they  receive  a portion  of 
five  hundred  milreis. 

When  Brazil  was  first  colonized,  the  ecclesiastic  establish- 
ments were  supported,  as  in  the  mother  country,  by  tithes  ; 
but  from  the  scantiness  of  the  population,  and  the  small 
quantity  of  produce  raised  in  an  infant  colony,  the  tithes 
were  found  entirely  inadequate  to  support  a church,  the 
number  of  whose  ecclesiastics  bore  a large  proportion  to 
the  inhabitants.  An  agreement,  therefore,  was  entered  in- 
to between  the  court  of  Portugal  and  that  of  Rome,  which 
gave  the  whole  of  the  tithe  to  government,  on  the  condition 
of  their  paying  the  clergy.  Instead,  therefore,  of  the  laity 
giving  a tenth  of  the  produce  of  the  soil,  to  support  the 
church,  they  paid  it  in  for  the  support  of  the  state,  and  go- 
vernment allowed  the  ecclesiastic  who  was  entitled  to 
receive  it,  a regular  stipend  of  two  hundred  milreis  or  dol- 
lars, at  that  time  equivalent  coin.  This  at  the  time  was  an 
excellent  bargain  for  the  church  ; the  stipend  was  a very 
ample  one,  and  the  government  lost  considerably  by  the  ex- 
change, while  the  parochial  clergyman,  who  received  be- 
sides his  fees  for  baptisms,  burials,  marriages,  Easter  dues, 
and  daily  masses,  lived  in  considerable  comfort,  and  even 
opulence.  But  now  the  order  of  things  is  reversed.  From 
the  increase  of  population  and  produce,  the  tithes  amount 
to  an  enormous  sum,  while  the  stationary  stipend  of  two 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


201 


hundred  dollars  is  a comparative  trifle,  and  insufficient  to 
procure  the  common  comforts  of  life,  so  that  the  state  of  the 
clergy  in  Brazil  is,  generally  speaking,  a state  of  poverty. 

The  episcopal  establishment  consists  of  one  archbishop, 
six  bishops,  and  two  prelates,  who  are  bishops  in  partibus. 
Nor  are  these  dignitaries  of  the  church  more  amply  provi- 
ded for.  The  bishops,  who  are  all  suffragans  of  the  arch- 
bishop of  Bahia^he  primate,  are  also  paid  by  government 
on  the  same  economical  plan  ; and  were  it  not  for  the  fees, 
arising  from  the  ecclesiastical  tribunals  in  their  respective 
dioceses,  they  would  , find  it  difficult  to  support,  with  decency, 
the  dignity  of  their  station.  Such  of  them  as  I had  the 
pleasure  to  know  and  visit,  appeared  to  me  to  live  with  great 
moderation  and  simplicity  ; and,  so  far  from  abounding  in 
superfluities,  did  not  seem  to  me  to  enjoy  even  what,  in 
England,  would  be  considered  necessaries  to  men  of  their 
rank  in  life. 

The  regular  clergy  in  Brazil  are  not  numerous.  They 
are  Benedictines,  Carmelites,  Franciscans,  ancient  and  re- 
formed, with  Capuchin  missionaries.  Of  these  orders  the 
richest  are  the  Benedictines  and  the  ancient  Carmelites. 
The  others  make  vows  of  poverty,  and  neither  do  nor  can 
possess  any  property. 

But  the  wealthy  orders  are  just  now  in  imminent  danger  ; 
from  the  very  reputation  of  their  wealth,  the  present  feeling 
of  the  country  is  not  i#  their  favor,  and  they  seem  to  be 
held  in  the  same  estimation  as  they  were  in  France  at  the 
commencement  of  the  revolution.  It  is  therefore  generally 
spoken  of,  as  a thing  just  and  necessary,  that  their  property 
should  be  applied  to  the  necessities  of  the  state.  The  cham- 
ber of  deputies  have  already  passed  a vote  to  that  effect, 
and  it  is  imagined,  that  many  persons  about  the  throne 
are  equally  disposed  to  the  measure,  in  the  hope  of  annex- 
ing some  of  the  confiscated  lands  to  their  own  estates,  as  is 
notoriously  the  case  in  every  reformation,  particularly  in 
our  own.  The  people  of  Brazil  have  always  been  hostile 
to  monastic  institutions  in  the  country,  either  male  or  female, 
and  for  the  same  reason — the  impediment  it  throws  in  the 
way  of  population  ; and  this  feeling  extends  even  to  the 
secular  clergy.  On  the  24th  of  October,  1827,  Senhor 
Fiego,  a member  of  the  ecclesiastical  committee,  and  him- 
self a priest,  I believe,  moved  in  the  chamber,  u that  it 
would  be  proper  to  apply  to  the  pope,  to  relieve  the  clergy 
from  the  penalty  annexed  to  marrying,”  and  at  the  same 


202 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


time  to  notify  to  his  holiness  u that  the  assembly  could  not 
avoid  repealing  the  law  of  celibacy.”  The  motion  did  not 
then  pass,  but  it  is  expected  to  be  brought  on  again  with 
success.  In  the  mean  time,  the  regular  clergy,  the  Bene- 
dictines and  Carmelites,  have  been  prohibited  from  taking 
novices,  an  interdict  which  is  believed  to  be  preparatory  to 
their  total  extinction. 

It  is  supposed,  however,  that  their  loss,  at  least  for  a time, 
will  be  very  severely  felt,  not  only  by  the  poor,  but  by  many 
respectable  families  of  decent  appearance,  but  very  scanty 
income.  The  whole  mendicity  of  Rio  is  supported  at  their 
convents.  A beggar  is  rarely  or  ever  seen  in  the  streets  ; 
and  at  first  I supposed  no  such  class  of  persons  existed  in 
the  country,  till  I saw  the  steps  and  platform  of  the  convent 
of  S.  Antonio  crowded  with  the  lame,  the  halt,  and  the  blind, 
and  all  receiving  their  daily  portions  of  meat  and  soup. 
With  respect  to  persons  of  a better  class,  great  numbers  are 
tenants  to  those  convents,  who  with  considerate  humanity 
take  very  low  rents,  and  exact  them  with  great  indulgence 
and  forbearance.  The  Benedictines  alone  are  proprietors 
of  seven  hundred  houses  in  Rio.  They  are,  I am  told,  ex- 
ceedingly kind  landlords  to  their  tenants,  who  are  generally 
of  the  humble,  but  respectable  class  I have  mentioned. 

The  minister  of  the  interior,  Clemente  Pereira,  is  sup- 
posed to  be  most  hostile  to  the  regular  orders,  and  avails 
himself  of  every  opportunity  of  attacking  them.  An  epi- 
demic disorder  broke  out  at  Macacou,  on  the  low  grounds 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  application  was  made  for  a cler- 
gyman to  visit  the  sick.  A Fra  Jose  promised  to  go,  but 
did  not,  and  a Fra  Luzio  positively  refused  ; by  which  the 
sick  were  cruelly  neglected  and  disappointed.  A complaint 
was  made  to  the  minister,  and  his  majesty  directed,  that  the 
superior  should  strictly  enforce  the  statutes  of  their  orders 
against  these  refractory  regulars;  for  that  it  would  still  more 
increase  the  public  dislike  to  cloisters,  if  seculars  exposed 
their  lives  to  dangers,  which  clergymen  refused  to  encoun- 
ter. Another  instance  occurred  at  the  same  time.  The 
Capuchins  have  no  convent,  but  a small  hospicio  in  the  Rua 
dos  Barbonos,  distinguished  by  a cross  of  Jerusalem  on  the 
door.  There  was  here  but  one  brother,  who  is  prefect  of 
the  order,  and  he  thought  it  right  to  stay  and  take  care  of 
the  hospicio.  He  was,  however,  instantly  ordered  off  by 
Clemente  Pereira,  to  his  aldea,  that  is,  his  Indian  village 
in  the  interior,  which  the  Capuchin  missionaries  undertake 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


203 


to  superintend.  An  Italian  ecclesiastic  was  charged  at  the 
same  time  with  neglect  of  duty.  He  was  treated  with  very 
little  ceremony,  but  directed  immediately  to  leave  the  coun- 
try. From  these  examples,  however,  it  should  appear,  that 
the  minister  is  rather  a friend  to  the  character  of  the  church, 
than  an  enemy  to  its  clergy. 

Besides  these  regular  societies,  there  are  various  irrnan- 
dadeSj  or  brotherhoods,  which  seem  to  be  on  the  plan  of  our 
benefit  societies,  but  on  a more  extended  scale.  They  take 
the  name  of  Carmelites,  Franciscans,  Minims,  and  are  call- 
ed “ Third  Orders,”  though  they  consist  entirely  of  the 
laity,  and  are  composed  of  trades-people,  and  such  of  a high- 
er class  as  may  be  disposed,  from  a spirit  of  devotion,  to 
become  members.  About  fifteen  dollars  are  paid  at  en- 
trance, and  an  annual  contribution  of  one  dollar  to  the  gen- 
eral fund.  For  this,  every  member  is  entitled  to  support  in 
sickness  or  in  poverty,  and  to  a funeral  free  of  expense,  and 
other  advantages  conferred  by  our  societies.  But  besides 
this,  a considerable  part  of  the  expense  of  public  worship  is 
borne  by  them.  These  irmandades,  under  one  denomination 
or  another,  build  and  repair  churches,  pay  for  masses  for 
the  souls  of  the  departed,  found  hospitals  for  the  sick,  bury 
the  dead,  and  indeed,  I am  told,  it  is  quite  inconceivable  to 
an  Englishman,  what  immense  sums  of  money  these  lay- 
brothers  annually  expend,  in  what  they  conceive  to  be  pious 
and  charitable  uses.  The  large  edifice  of  S.  Francisco  de 
Paula,  with  its  magnificent  church  and  fine  hospital,  was 
built  and  is  supported  by  their  voluntary  contributions  ; and 
their  utility  is  so  felt  and  acknowledged,  that  many  people 
at  their  death  bequeath  them  their  property  for  the  same 
uses,  and  in  this  way  they  also  are  proprietors  of  many 
houses  in  Rio,  and  distinguished  for  their  kindness  and  in- 
dulgence to  their  tenants. 

The  native  clergy  are  not,  generally  speaking,  learned 
men,  for  they  have  not  the  means  of  being  so.  The  pover- 
ty of  the  bishops,  is  an  impediment  to  the  establishment  of 
ecclesiastical  seminaries,  on  a scale  sufficiently  extensive 
or  liberal  to  give  the  candidates  the  means  or  opportunities 
of  a learned  education.  The  inducements  to  enter  the 
church  also  are  so  small,  and  its  stipend  so  limited,  that 
men  of  opulent  families  or  brilliant  abilities  always  prefer 
some  more  attractive  or  profitable  avocation  ; and  none  but 
persons  in  the  lowest  ranks  of  life  devote  their  children  to 
it : the  resources  which  it  affords  in  other  countries,  to  the 


204 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


younger  members  of  respectable  families,  not  being  thought 
of  in  this.  The  candidate,  therefore,  is  a person  whose  pa- 
rents are  unacquainted  with  liberal  education,  who  has  no 
knowledge  of,  nor  desire  for  it  himself,  and  who,  even  if  he 
had,  does  not  find  the  means  of  acquiring  it,  in  the  semi- 
nary to  which  he  is  sent. 

To  this  cause  perhaps  may  be  attributed,  in  some  mea- 
sure, the  admission  of  negroes  to  holy  orders,  who  officiate 
in  churches  indiscriminately  with  whites.  I have  seen  my- 
self three  clergymen  in  the  same  church  at  the  same  time  ; 
one  of  whom  was  a white,  another  a mulatto,  and  the  third  a 
black.  The  admission  of  the  poor  despised  race,  to  the 
highest  functions  that  a human  being  can  perform,  strongly 
marks  the  consideration  in  which  it  is  held  in  different  places. 
In  the  West  Indies  a clergyman  has  been  severely  censured 
by  his  flock,  for  presuming  to  administer  the  sacrament  to  a 
poor  negro  at  the  same  table  with  themselves.*  In  Brazil  a 
black  is  seen  as  the  officiating  minister,  and  whites  receiving 
it  from  his  hands. 

Notwithstanding  the  humble  ranks  from  which  the  clergy 
are  raised,  and  the  insufficient  means  of  education  afforded 
them,  they  have  already  felt  the  effects  of  that  influx  of  light 
and  knowledge,  which  an  intercourse  with  strangers  and 
free  institutions,  has  spread  through  the  country.  A trans- 
lation of  u Paley’s  Moral  Philosophy  ” is  now  very  gene- 
rally read  by  the  Brazilian.  Ecclesiastics,  and  found  in  all 
the  libraries,  and  Blair’s  Sermons  are  commonly  preached 
in  their  churches,  the  florid  style  of  which  is  accommodated 
to  their  taste  in  pulpit  oratory.  Now  assuredly  the  people 
who  would  study  the  one,  and  address  their  congregations 
in  the  other,  must  be  far  advanced  beyond  those  legendary 
fables,  to  which  it  has  been  supposed  their  erudition  was 
exclusively  confined. 

* In  the  island  of  Barbados,  the  white  inhabitants  were  quite  indignant, 
that  the  clergyman,  Mr.  Hoste,  should  administer  the  sacrament  to  the  blacks, 
at  the  same  table  with  them ; and  a complaint  was  made  to  the  bishop.  It  ap- 
peared, that  a few  of  these  poor  creatures  were  admitted  to  one  end  of  the  table, 
as  a matter  rather  of  necessity  than  choice,  before  the  whites  at  the  other  end 
had  entirely  retired  from  the  solemn  service ; but  that  a sufficiently  respectful 
distance  had  been  kept  between  them.  The  bishop,  much  to  his  credit,  rebuked 
their  ill-timed  vanity  on  such  an  occasion,  by  dismissing  the  complaint. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


205 


CHAP.  XVII. 

Bishop  of  Rio,— Invited  to  dine  at  his  Palace. — His  Simplicity  and  Urbanity. — 
Library. — Anecdote  of  Southey’s  History  of  Brazil. — Temperate  and  studious 
Habits  of  the  Bishop. — General  Character  of  the  Clergy. — Abridgement  of  the  Num- 
ber of  Holidays. — St.  George  and  St.  Patrick. — Great  Patron,  S.  Sebastiao,  Cele- 
bration of  his  Festival. — Fire-Works  and  wax  Candles. — Enormous  Expense. — 
Brazilian  Observance  of  Sunday. — Sometimes  work,  but  never  indulge  in  Intemper- 
ance.— Greatest  Violation  of  Sabbath  by  American  and  English  Sailors. — Sebasti- 
anists. — Origin  of  Sect. — Prophetic  Disciples. — Number  and  Character  in  Brazil. — 
Introduced  to  one. — Strange  Bargain  of  Sebastianist  Shopkeeper. — Curious  Docu- 
ment. 


Among  the  many  exceptions  I have  met  with  to  the  charge 
of  want  of  learning  or  information  among  the  Brazilian 
clergy  is  the  excellent  Jose  Caetano  da  Silva-Coutinho, 
Bishop  of  Rio,  than  whom  a more  learned,  or,  I believe,  a 
more  amiable  man  does  not  exist.  He  is  by  birth  a Portu- 
guese, and  intended  to  have  embarked  with  the  royal  family, 
but  could  not  obtain  a passage  in  any  ship  of  the  crowded 
squadron.  He  was  watched  by  the  French,  but  contrived 
to  elude  their  vigilance,  and  arrived  at  Rio  in  April,  1808. 
He  landed  at  night,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  the  pal- 
ace, where  he  was  kindly  and  gladiy  received  by  the  Prince 
Regent,  who  highly  esteemed  him,  and  by  the  clergy  of 
Rio,  who  had  been  for  three  years  without  a bishop.  In 
June  following,  by  an  alvara  of  the  prince,  he  was  appoint- 
ed capellao  mor,  or  chaplain-in-chief  to  the  royal  palace. 
He  is  now  about  fifty,  or  a little  more.  He  is  well  versed 
in  ancient  and  modern  languages  ; speaks  French  and  En- 
glish, not  fluently,  but  reads  them  both  with  facility,  and  is 
well  acquainted  with  the  literature  of  both  countries. 

He  is  not  only  capellao  mor,  to  the  court  ; but  his  talents 
and  integrity  are  so  appreciated,  that  he  was  recently  ap- 
pointed president  of  the  senate  in  the  present  sessions.  He 
is  a man  of  very  liberal  opinions,  perfectly  and  sincerely  tol- 
erant of  every  sect,  while  he  is  warmly  attached  to  his 
own.  He  was  a strenuous  advocate  for  building  the  Pro- 
testant church,  and  is  fond  of  the  society  of  English  clergy- 
men, and  pays  particular  attention  to  the  British  chaplain. 
He  is  exceedingly  charitable  to  the  poor,  even  beyond  his 
limited  means,  and  anxious  to  promote  every  project  which 
he  thinks  will  benefit  the  country.  He  is  a man  of  strict 
18 


206 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


observance  and  blameless  life  himself,  and  exceedingly 
temperate  in  his  habits.  He  fasts  all  the  year  on  one  meal 
a day.  He  is  anxious  to  effect  a reformation  among  such 
of  his  clergy,  as  he  thinks  require  it  : but  unfortunately  for 
the  cause  of  morality  and  religion,  the  court  party  has  been 
for  some  years  in  open  hostility  with  him  ; and  some  clergy- 
men, whom  he  would  have  compelled  to  live  more  according 
to  their  canonical  rules,  have  been  so  protected,  that  he  has 
not  been  able  to  effect  his  purpose. 

From  the  character  I had  heard  of  this  worthy  man,  I 
wished  much  to  know  him,  and  was  soon  gratified,  for  he  is 
exceedingly  easy  of  access.  He  invited  me  to  dine  with 
him  at  two  o’clock,  and  I went  with  a friend.  His  palace 
is  on  one  of  the  commanding  hills  of  the  town,  forming,  like 
the  churches  and  convents,  a very  conspicuous  object,  and 
presenting  a magnificent  prospect  -from  the  platform  before 
the  door.  The  edifice  is  very  spacious,  abounding  in  stairs 
and  corridors,  but  in  a state  of  neglect,  like  a great  man- 
sion-house, too  large  to  be  kept  in  repair  by  the  limited 
means  of  the  proprietor.  We  found  him  sitting  in  a very 
bare  apartment,  with  papers  before  him  ; he.  was  a low  man, 
with  hair  partly  grey,  and  combed  negligently  over  his 
forehead.  His  dress  was  a very  plain  blue  cotton  gown, 
and  he  had  nothing  to  distinguish  his  rank,  but  a diamond 
cross  suspended  from  a rosary. 

When  dinner  was  announced,  he  took  me  by  the  hand, 
and  placed  me  in  his  own  chair  at  the  head  of  the  table, 
and  with  a courtesy  that  really  embarrassed  me,  sat  down  on 
a low  chair  beside  me.  His  family  consisted  of  six  persons, 
four  of  whom  were  ecclesiastics  ; one  a secretary  and  mem- 
ber of  the  chamber  of  deputies  ; and  one  a promising  young 
Brazilian  artist,  whom  he  patronises  for  his  merit,  and  sends 
to  the  academy.  There  was  no  form  or  ceremony  at  table, 
nor  any  restraint  on  the  conversation  of  the  young  men, 
except  that  instinctive  deference  all  pay  to  the  presence  of 
a venerable  man.  It  happened  to  be  Friday — our  dinner  was, 
of  course,  fasting  fare  of  various  sorts,  plainly  dressed,  but 
plentiful  and  good  ; first,  Newfoundland  salt,  and  Rio  fresh 
fish,  of  different  kinds,  all  helped  together  on  the  same 
plate  ; then  small  fish  stewed  with  herbs  ; and  the  entertain- 
ment concluded  with  a copious  dish  of  fried  eggs.  When 
these  were  removed,  a large  pan  of  quince  marmalade  was 
set  down,  which  was  cut  into  square  blocks  and  sent  round. 
The  bishop  informed  me  that  the  quince  was  an  imported 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


207 


fruit  ; it  is  now  one  of  the  most  abundant  in  every  part  of 
Brazil,  where  it  attains  to  a prodigious  size.  During  din- 
ner a black  came  round  with  wine,  and  frequently  filled 
our  glasses,  and  every  time  we  drank,  we  pledged  each 
other’s  health.  In  return  for  mine,  I wished  prosperity  to 
Brazil,  and  then  apologized  for  taking  what  might  be  sup- 
posed a liberty.  They  all  declared,  they  were  exceedingly 
obliged  and  complimented  by  the  toast. 

After  sitting  a short  time  at  table,  the  bishop  proposed 
that  we  should  retire  to  the  library,  and  take  our  coffee 
there.  We  all  stood  up,  and  after  his  example  remained 
some  short  time  in  silent  prayer  and  thankfulness  ; he  then 
led  the  way  to  the  library,  when  he  again  placed  me  in  his 
own  seat,  covered  with  red  morocco — a courtesy  I found  he 
always  used  to  strangers. 

The  library  is  a fine  spacious  apartment,  containing 
about  four  thousand  volumes  in  different  languages,  ancient 
and  modern,  with  a large  proportion  of  French  and  English. 
Among  the  latter  he  showed  me  u Southey’s  History  of 
Brazil,”  which  he  said  was  a standard  work,  highly  prized 
as  one  of  great  research  and  impartial  detail  ; in  the  com- 
pilation of  which,  he  knew  the  author  had  access  to  the 
most  authentic  documents  through  his  uncle,  the  respecta- 
ble chaplain  at  Lisbon.  Indeed,  in  such  repute  was  the 
work  held  in  Brazil,  that  he  said  a native  author,  I think 
Pizarro,  or  Cazal,  compiled  his  history  in  the  bishop’s  li- 
brary, principally  out  of  Southey’s  work.  It  was  certainly 
a high  compliment  to  the  estimation  in  which  a foreigner’s 
work  was  held,  when  a native  drew  all  his  information  from 
it  about  his  own  country. 

I was  so  pleased  with  the  conversation  of  this  urbane  and 
intelligent  man,  that  I quite  forgot  I was  infringing  on  his 
habits,  of  which  I had  been  previously  apprised.  Having 
passed  the  morning  in  his  various  duties,  and  dined  frugal- 
ly at  two,  he  immediately  after  retires  to  his  couch,  where 
he  continues  some  hours  ; then  rises  and  studies  all  night, 
till  the  morning  calls  him  again  to  his  episcopal  and  other 
duties.  I was  sorry  to  find,  I had  intruded  two  or  three 
hours  upon  his  natural  rest. 

The  bishop,  though  a decided  constitutionalist,  has  never 
exceeded  the  bounds  of  moderation,  or  countenanced  the 
wild  and  anarchical  projects  of  those,  who  have  at  different 
times  endeavored  to  disturb  the  repose  of  Brazil.  He  is 
therefore  disliked  by  the  violent,  and  not  in  favor  with  the 


208 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


court ; and  he  has  at  times  been  attacked  by  the  scribes  of 
both  parties.  He  still,  however,  holds  on  the  even  tenor 
of  his  way,  and  as  he  is  known  to  be  a disinterested  man, 
sincerely  attached  to  the  good  of  his  country,  he  is  respect- 
ed by  all,  and  the  weight  of  his  moral  character  has  con- 
siderable influence.  After  a long  estrangement  from  court, 
he  was  sent  for,  and  again  treated  with  an  almost  superflui- 
ty of  respect  and  distinction.  The  rumor  of  a certain 
marriage  was,  at  that  time,  circulating  at  Rio,  and  it  was 
added  that  he,  as  capellao  mor,  or  first  chaplain,  was  called 
on  to  perform  it.  Happily,  the  rumor  was  unfounded  ; 
but  while  it  continued,  I am  told  it  made  the  good  man  ex- 
ceedingly unhappy. 

The  bishopric  of  Rio,  over  which  he  presides,  contains 
four  provinces  : Rio  de  Janeiro,  Santo  Espiritu,  S.  Cathe- 
rina,  and  Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  The  population  of  the  whole 
amounts  to  eight  hundred  thousand  persons,  including  about 
one  thousand  clergymen.  Of  these,  very  few  are  regular, 
as  there  are  but  ten  convents  in  the  diocese,  and  one  of 
them  contains  but  a single  brother.  Many  of  the  clergy 
are  old,  and  are  every  day  leaving  vacancies  by  deaths ; 
yet  by  a recent  law,  which  seems  dictated  by  a very  unchris- 
tian spirit,  no  young  canditate  can  take  orders,  without  a 
license  from  government  ; and,  as  this  is  not  readily  granted, 
many  villages  of  the  interior  are  already  without  a pastor. 

From  what  you  have  heard  of  the  immoral  lives  of  the 
clergy  in  Brazil,  you  will  say  that  this  is  no  great  loss  to 
the  people  ; but  really  I cannot  find  that  they  deserve  the 
character  imputed  to  them.  From  what  I have-  seen  my- 
self and  heard  from  others,  they  are,  generally  speaking, 
temperate  in  their  diet  ; observant  of  the  rules  of  their 
church ; assiduous  in  attending  the  sick,  and  charitable  as 
far  as  their  limited  means  permit  them.  There  is  one  seri- 
ous charge,  however,  of  which  I cannot  acquit  them  ; and 
that  is,  the  too  frequent  violation  of  the  vows  of  celibacy. 
Their  attachments,  however,  are  constant,  and  want  only 
legal  sanction  to  render  them  even  laudable  ; for  they  con- 
sider their  connexion  as  binding,  as  if  it  had  taken  place. 
Many  of  them  are  excellent  fazendeiros,  or  farmers,  and 
leave  behind  them  a family  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness, 
to  extend  the  improvements  they  have  commenced  ; and 
this  is  deemed  in  the  country  so  important  a benefit,  that 
the  thing  is  not  regarded  with  the  same  degree  of  scandal 
as  it  ought,  or  as  it  is  in  other  places.  The  Brazilians  are 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


209 


all  anxious  to  have  the  rule  of  celibacy,  which  they  say  is  a 
mere  matter  of  regulation,  and  not  of  doctrine,  immediately 
repealed,  and  the  discipline  of  their  church  adapted  to  the 
state  of  the  country. 

In  this  view,  also,  it  is  probable  that  the  number  of  holy- 
days  will  also  be  diminished,  in  imitation  of  what  has  taken 
place  in  Peru.  The  Archbishop  of  Lima  has  retained  only 
twelve,  asserting  on  the  promulgation  of  the  edict,  that 
every  day  in  the  year  ought  to  be  kept  a holyday,  as  to 
avoiding  wicked  deeds  and^ practising  virtue.  This  regula- 
tion, and  the  sentiment  accompanying  it,  I have  heard  great- 
ly applauded  in  Brazil. 

Among  the  saints  whose  holydays  are  prescribed  in  the 
Brazilian  Calendar  are  St.  Patrick  and  St.  George.  The 
first,  as  S.  Patricio  Ab.  de  Irlanda,  on  the  17th  of  March, 
as  in  Ireland  ; so  that  Dr.  Ledwich’s  proof  of  the  non-exist- 
ence of  this  saint,  has  not  convinced  the  Brazilians.  The 
other  is  celebrated  on  the  23d  of  April  : he  has  also  a church 
dedicated  to  him  in  the  Travessa  dos  Passos.  He  is  held 
in  such  respect,  that  his  image  on  horseback  is  the  only  one 
permitted,  in  the  public  procession  of  Corpus  Christi  day. 

But  the  day  of  S.  Sebastiao,  the  great  patron  of  Bio,  is 
that  particularly  held  in  the  highest  respect.  Before  the 
foundation  of  this  city,  he  was  the  saint  under  whose  banners 
they  fought  with  the  Indians,  and  expelled  the  heretic 
French  ; and  it  was  after  him  their  city  was  called,  though 
the  name  is  now  lost  in  that  of  Rio.  His  day  is  celebrated 
with  great  pomp  on  the  20th  of  January.  It  had  been  the 
custom  to  illuminate  the  city,  for  three  nights  in  succession 
afte*-  his  festival,  and  for  the  senate  of  the  camera  to  carry 
his  image,  crowned  with  a diadem  of  precious  stones,  after 
the  direction  of  the  psalm*  which  they  applied  to  him.  This 
practice  had  fallen  into  disuse  ; but  a sudden  epidemic,  like 
a plague,  at  Bio,  greatly  alarmed  the  people,  who  could 
assign  no  cause  for  the  visitation,  but  the  discontinuance  of 
the  procession  of  their  patron  ; it  was  therefore  revived  with 
additional  splendor,  and  ordered  to  be  regularly  observed. 
Notice  had  arrived  at  Bio  by  the  brig  Guerra  Yoador,  that 
the  royal  family  was  embarked,  and  might  be  expected  in 
Brazil  about  the  20th  of  January.  This  coincidence  was 
hailed  as  a good  omen,  and  the  camera,  in  this  expectation, 
ordered  the  ceremony  to  be  got  up  with  unusual  brilliancy  ; 

* “ Posuisti  in  capite  ejus  coronam  de  lanide  Drecioso.”  Ps.  xxi.  3. 


210 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


but  D.  John  not  arriving  during  the  festival,  they  were  filled 
with  melancholy  forebodings.  In  1809,  among  the  first  acts 
of  the  king,  on  his  coming  to  Rio,  was  the  observance  of 
this  festival  with  great  pomp  on  its  first  anniversary,  and  it 
has  so  continued  ever  since. 

The  eve  of  a saint’s  festival  is  always  announced  at  twelve 
o’clock  the  day  before,  by  a discharge  of  three  sky-rockets, 
in  front  of  the  church.  These  rockets  are  filled  with  crack- 
ers, which  explode  high  in  the  air,  and  then  descend  in  show- 
ers of  white  smoke,  on  the  roof  of  the  building.  Besides  this, 
every  church  has  a novena,  or  festival  of  nine  days,  during 
which  there  is  a constant  discharge  of  rockets  and  other 
fire-works  ; so  that  the  whole  year  is  an  uninterrupted  suc- 
cession of  those  explosions,  in  some  part  of  the  town.  I 
rarely  went  out  into  any  street,  or  at  any  hour  in  the  day 
or  evening,  that  I did  not  hear  some  report  crackling  over 
my  head,  and  on  looking  up  saw  expulsions  of  white  smoke, 
like  small  dense  clouds,  floating  in  the  air  while  it  was  light, 
and  when  it  was  dark,  showers  of  brilliant  stars  descending 
from  the  atmosphere. 

Another  circumstance  which  marks  the  saint’s  festival,  is 
the  vast  quantity  of  candles  lighted  before  the  shrine,  mixed 
with  artificial  flowers  and  other  decorations.  This  particu- 
lar mode  of  ornamenting  their  church,  is  one  on  which  the 
greatest  care  and  attention  is  bestowed,  and  sometimes  with 
fine  effect.  An  inclined  plane  of  lighted  tapers,  commences 
at  the  floor  and  ascends  to  the  roof,  forming  sloping  walls  of 
light,  besides  those  that  are  suspended  from  the  ceiling'; 
so  that  on  entering  the  church,  you  find  yourself  encircled 
in  a sheet  of  blaze.  These  tapers  are  all  of  wax,  generally 
imported  from  the  coast  of  Africa  expressly  for  this  use. 

As  this  constant  display  of  fire-works  and  wax  candles, 
must  add  considerably  to  the  expense  of  public  worship,  and 
abstract  large  sums  from  really  useful  objects,  I wished  to 
ascertain  what  it  amounted  to  in  the  year,  by  finding  out  the 
quantity  of  wax  and  powder  annually  consumed.  I could  get 
no  data,  however,  to  enable  me  to  form  a correct  opinion  ; 
but  a friend  undertook  to  make  a calculation,  from  the  con- 
sumption of  single  churches.  In  that  of  Antonio  we  count- 
ed on  one  night,  eight  hundred  and  thirty  large  wax  tapers, 
and  in  that  of  the  Terceira  on  the  same  night  seven  hundred 
and  sixty,  and  some  of  these  as  large  as  flambeaux.  Wax 
cost  at  the  time  five  hundred  and  sixty  reys  per  pound,  and  we 
conjectured  that  in  the  fortytwo  chapels,  convents,  igrejas, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


211 


and  other  religious  houses  in  Rio,  there  was  annually  expend- 
ed one  hundred  contos  of  reis,  or  about  fifteen  thousand 
pounds  sterling,  in  wax  and  gunpowder,  as  essential  requi- 
sites to  the  worship  of  God.  I trust  the  worthy  irmandades, 
who  supply  a considerable  part  of  the  expenses,  will  at 
length  see,  that  it  might  be  more  profitably  and  rationally  em- 
ployed, and  will  apply  it  to  promote  some  of  the  benevolent 
and  useful  plans,  for  which  the  public  are  really  so  much 
indebted  to  them. 

The  observance  of  Sunday,  however,  dedicated  only  to 
God,  does  not  require,  in  their  estimation,  any  of  that  dis- 
play, which  marks  their  devotion  for  inferior  beings.  The 
sabbath,  therefore,  is  a day  of  rational  piety,  and  it  is  observ- 
ed by  some  Brazilian  families  with  great  propriety  and  de- 
corum. I have  never  seen  a more  pleasing  or  edifying  sight, 
than  one  of  these  families  going  to  church  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing : first  the  father  and  mother,  dressed  with  that  attention 
which  respect  for  the  day  dictated  ; then  their  children  of 
different  ages,  attired  with  equal  care,  having  each  their 
prayer-book  or  breviary  in  their  hand  ; last  followed  the 
domestic  slaves,  male  and  female,  dressed  with  similar  neat- 
ness, particularly  the  female  negroes.  I have  sometimes 
counted  groups  of  twelve  or  fourteen  persons  of  this  de- 
scription, proceeding  to  their  parish  churches,  and  I believe 
there  is  no  Brazilian  family,  which  does  not  think  worship 
on  that  day  indispensably  requisite,  either  public  or  domes- 
tic. I had  more  than  once  occasion  to  call  at  their  houses, 
about  nine  o’clock  on  Sunday  morning,  and  I always  found 
them  engaged  in  private  devotion  ; this  was  the  case  twice 
at  the  residence  of  the  minster  of  the  interior.  He  and  all 
his  family,  and  several  of  the  neighbors,  formed  a large  and 
serious  congregation  ; and  it  appeared  to  me  that  the  im- 
putation of  his  indifference  to  religion,  was  very  unfounded. 

It  is  true,  that  after  having  attended  divine  service  in  the 
morning,  many  shops  are  opened,  and  artisans  are  frequently 
seen  following  their  ordinary  trade  ; and  this  to  one  ac- 
customed to  our  rigid  restrictions  on  the  sabbath,  is  really  a 
painful  sight,  as  breaking  down  the  partition,  which  should 
separate  this  ^prescribed  period  of  rest  from  ordinary  days  ; 
but  then  you  are  not  shocked  by  that  awful  display  of  drunk- 
enness and  blasphemy,  which  our  sabbaths  present  ; — you 
do  not  see  squalid  masses  of  men  and  women,  besetting 
gin-shops,  and  resting  from  their  ordinary  labors,  only  to 
indulge  in  the  excesses  of  intoxication.  The  Brazilians 


212 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


consider  that  the  sabbath  commences  on  Saturday  evening- 
after  sunset,  and  terminates  at  the  same  time  the  following 
day,  founding  their  opinion  on  the  expression  that  u the 
evening  and  the  morning  were  the  first  day  ; ” and  this  they 
allege  as  a justification,  for  opening  the  opera  after  sun-set 
on  Sunday  evening.  We  very  properly  close  our  theatres, 
but  we  open  our  taverns  and  what  are  miscalled  tea-gardens, 
where  about  one  hundred  thousand  persons  in  London  and 
the  vicinity,  commit  more  riot  and  excess  on  the  sabbath- 
day,  than  are  found  in  the  whole  extent  of  Brazil  in  a year. 
I mention  this  to  you  to  remind  you,  that  all  our  own  usa- 
ges are  not  the  perfection  of  human  wisdom,  as  we  are  apt 
to  consider  them  ; nor  ought  we  to  despise,  as  we  do,  those 
who  deviate  from  them.  The  greatest  violations  of  the 
Lord’s-day  which  I have  seen  at  Rio,  were  committed  at 
the  Palace-square,  where  the  crews  land  from  ships  in  the 
bay.  Here  I witnessed  one  Sunday  evening  a desperate 
riot  of  drunken  blasphemers  ; but  I am  sorry  to  inform  you, 
they  all  swore  in  English,  and  were  subjects  either  of  the 
United  States  or  the  United  Kingdom. 

It  appears  to  me  that  the  Brazilians  are  losing  much  of 
their  respect  for  saints’  days  and  ceremonial  processions, 
but  that  they  still  retain  a deep  impression  of  rational  piety  ; 
and  while  they  are  attached  to  the  essential  parts  ’of  their 
own  doctrines  and  discipline,  are  almost  entirely  free  from 
bigotry  and  intolerance  towards  those  who  differ  from  them. 
I have  heard  some  of  the  clergy  complain,  that  infidel  opin- 
ions were  making  a rapid  progress  among  them,  and  so 
perhaps  they  are  among  a very  small  class  of  anarchists, 
such  as  are  to  be  found  in  all  revolutionary  times  ; but  as 
far  as  I have  seen,  the  great  body  of  the  people  are  zealous- 
ly attached  to  their  religion,  and  are  every  day  beginning  to 
entertain  more  rational  and  enlightened  views  on  the  subject. 

There  is  one  sect,  however,  that  still  lingers  among  them 
of  very  extraordinary  character,  that  of  the  Sebastianists, 
so  called  from  the  circumstance  which  gave  rise  to  their 
opinions.  Dom  Sebastian,  King  of  Portugal,  was  educated 
by  the  Jesuits,  who,  it  is  generally  supposed,  were  in  the 
pay  and  interest  of  the  King  of  Spain.  At  their  instigation 
he  undertook  an  expedition  into  Africa  in  the  year  1577, 
and  in  August  of  the  same  year,  all  his  army,  which  con- 
sisted of  a mixture  of  Portuguese,  Germans,  and  Italians, 
was  totally  defeated  at  the  battle  of  Alcazar,  and  he  him- 
self disappeared,  and  his  body  was  immediately  buried  or 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


213 


burned.  Few  of  the  Portuguese  escaped,  but  none  of  the 
survivors  could  affirm,  that  they  saw  the  king  perish  in  the 
battle  ; on  the  contrary,  there  were  witnesses  who  deposed, 
that  they  saw  him  afterwards  on  the  road  that  led  to  the 
river.  This  gave  rise  to  a notion  that  the  king  had  not 
perished,  but  that  he  had  lost  his  way  in  Africa  ; the  word 
used  was  se  perdera,  which  is  an  ambiguous  phrase,  and 
means  both  one  and  the  other. 

The  consequence  of  this  battle  was  very  serious  for  Por- 
tugal. The  Spaniards  availed  themselves  of  their  advan- 
tage over  their  rivals,  like  the  Spartans,  and  reduced  the 
nation  to  a state  of  dependence  on  them.  They  seized  on 
the  coiintry,  and  from  1580  to  1640,  ruled  it  with  a rod  of 
iron.  The  imposition  of  their  government,  was  like  that  of 
the  thirty  tyrants,  and  the  Portuguese,  like  the  Athenians, 
denominate  it  a kind  of  slavery,  and  call  it  the  sixty  years  of 
captivity. 

Many  persons  were  incited  to  be  the  instruments,  of  shak- 
ing off  this  intolerable  yoke,  and  many  Dom  Sebastiaos, 
availing  themselves  of  the  uncertainty  and  ambiguity  of  the 
fate  of  the  king,  started  up  and  personated  him.  The  most 
remarkable  was  a Dom  Sebastiao  of  Genoa,  who  told  so 
many  minute  and  secret  circumstances  of  the  King  Sebas- 
tiao, that  the  credulous  did  not  doubt  he  was  the  real 
man,  and  the  better  informed  were  convinced,  that  he  must 
have  had  some  personal  communication  with  him.  The 
Spaniards  demanded  him,  and  he  was  basely  delivered  up 
to  them  : they  condemned  him  to  the  galleys,  were  he  end- 
ed his  days. 

Dreams,  prophecies,  comets,  portentous  signs  in  the  Rav- 
ens, and  all  manner  of  preternatual  things,  were  now  seen 
and  heard  in  Portugal  ; and  they  were  circulated  by  the 
authority  of  the  clergy,  who  gave  them  countenance  and 
support. 

Among  the  predictions  of  an  early  date,  and  still  extant, 
are  certain  Pythian  oracles,  delivered  in  verse  by  a shoema- 
ker, denominated  Francisco  Bandarra.  These  declare  that 
Dom  Sebastiao  was  taken  by  God  from  his  enemies,  and  con- 
cealed in  a desert  island  under  the  care  of  a holy  hermit  ; that 
he  is  still  alive  and  well,  and  would  appear  on  a cloudy  morn- 
ing, and  resume  the  usurped  throne  of  his  ancestors. 

Others  in  high  repute,  though  of  much  more  recent  origin, 
were  delivered  by  a certain  Pretinho  de  Japao,  or  the  little 
Negro  of  Japan. 


214 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


But  there  was  a Madre  Leonadro,  a nun  of  the  convent 
of  Monchique,  in  Oporto,  who  had  sundry  visions  and 
dreams  on  the  subject,  which  she  revealed  to  her  father 
confessor,  and  he  has  published  them  to  the  world,  with  all 
the  stamp  of  authenticity  which  he  could  give  them. 

Every  person  who  has  rendered  any  essential  service  to 
Portugal,  has  been  at  times  recognized  as  the  expected 
Dorn  Sebastiao,  in  whom  the  prophecies  have  been  accom- 
plished, and  who  has  appeared  in  visions  and  dreams. 
Many  believe  that  Dom  John  the  fourth,  who  expelled  the 
Philips  of  Spain  from  the  throne  of  Portugal,  was  the  one 
waited  for.  The  Marquis  of  Pombal,  who  was  called  Se- 
bastiao Joao  de  Caravalho,  also  obtained  credit  with  many, 
as  being  actually  the  person  whose  name  he  bore  ; and  at 
the  present  day  the  son  of  the  Infanta  Dona  Maria  Theresa, 
eldest  daughter  of  Dom  John  VI.  is,  by  a certain  party  in 
Portugal,  now  given  out  as  the  real  Simon  Pure. 

But  besides  those  who  avail  themelves  of  popular  preju- 
dices to  promote  their  objects,  there  is  actually  a consider- 
able number  of  persons,  both  in  Portugal  and  Brazil,  who 
simply  and  seriously  believe,  at  this  day,  that  King  Sebas- 
tiao, who  disappeared  in  Africa,  is  not  dead,  but  will  again 
reappear  in  his  proper  person  ; the  Portuguese  say  at  Lis- 
bon, and  the  Brazilians  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  which  is  a favor- 
ed city,  and  originally  and  properly  called  after  his  name. 
It  is  generally  supposed  that  the  number  in  Portugal  exceeds 
1,000  persons,  and  in  Brazil  about  twice  as  many  more. 
They  have  no  particular  place  of  meeting,  and  form  no  dis- 
tinct congregation  with  any  peculiar  doctrine ‘except  this. 
Their  common  article  of  faith  is,  that  Sebastiao  will  certainly 
appear,  and  that  the  event  will  happen  in  their  own  life- 
time ; and  they  expect  him  with  as  much  zeal  and  simplicity, 
as  the  modern  Jews  expect  the  Messiah 

In  the  Minas  Geraes  they  are  most  numerous,  where 
they  resemble  the  Quakers  or  Moravians  in  England,  and 
are  distinguished  for  their  industry,  frugality,  benevolence, 
and  simplicity.  In  Rio  they  are  also  numerous,  where  I 
have  seen  and  conversed  with  many  individuals. 

I was  introduced  to  one  of  them  at  the  convent  of  S.  An- 
tonio ; he  was  a man  about  sixty,  rather  lusty,  with  a soft 
flabby  face.  He  talked  a great  deal  on  general  subjects ; 

* The  best  account  of  this  sect  is  to  be  found  in  a book  now  very 
rare,  entitled,  “ Portugal  Regenerado,”  which  details  many  of  their 
extravagant  and  wild  opinions. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


215 


but  he  ’was  led,  at  my  request,  to  the  subject  of  King  Sebas- 
tiao,  when,  as  if  some  chord  was  struck  with  which  all  his 
sympathies  vibrated,  he  at  once  burst  out  into  a rhapsody, 
uttering  series  of  prophecies  with  the  greatest  volubility  and 
perseverance.  At  every  commotion  which  had  taken  place 
during  the  revolutionary  transit  of  the  country,  he  was  firm- 
ly persuaded  that  it  indicated  the  approach  of  the  lost  king. 
Another  whom  I saw,  keeps  a shop  in  the  Rua  Direita, 
and  sells  iron-ware  ; and  he  actually  disposed  of  many  ar- 
ticles in  the  line  of  his  business,  to  pay  him  an  advanced 
price,  when  Dom  Sebastiao  appeared,  and  he  has  engaged 
not  to  demand  payment  till  that  period. 

But  people  enter  into  regular  and  legal  deeds  and  bonds 
on  this  subject,  before  proper  authorities,  and  I have  read 
an  obligation  of  this  kind  which  was  duly  attested  before  a 
tabellion,  or  notary,  and  several  witnesses.  It  is  as  follows: 

u The  6th  of  May,  1 823,  in  this  very  loyal  and  heroic  city 
of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Colonel  Joaquim  de  Sousa  Menellas, 
commander  of  the  order  of  Christ,  whom  I know  for  such, 
presented  himself  at  my  office,  and  said,  in  the  presence  of 
the  undersigned  witnesses,  that  on  the  7th  of  October  last 
past,  of  his  own  full  and  entire  will,  he  had  promised  to  Joze 
Morao  Tello,  to  pay  him  the  sum  of  ten  contos  of  reis,  if, 
in  the  space  of  ten  years,  to  count  from  this  day,  Dom  Se- 
bastiao, king  of  Portugal  should  appear,  and  that  he  would 
fulfil  the  obligation  as  soon  as  it  could  be  proved,  that  he 
had  reappeared.  And  the  said  colonel  has  declared,  more- 
over, that  some  days  after  this  promise,  he  had  of  his  own 
free  will  increased  the  sum  by  two  contos  more  of  reis,  pro- 
posing to  fulfil  the  obligation  by  this  present  act,  and  bind- 
ing his  person  and  his  present  and  future  goods  to  the  obli- 
gation, and  with  perfect  knowledge,  of  his  own  free  will, 
that  the  obligation  do  subsist  and  have  its  full  effect,  that 
none  of  his  heirs  can  annul  it,  provided  he  himself  die  in  the 
interval.  This  he  has  signed,  as  I affirm  on  my  faith,  and 
he  has  signed  it  before  the  undersigned  witnesses. 

a Jose  Perez  Garcia,  Notary.” 

I inquired  after  the  contracting  parties,  and  my  informant 
said  he  believed  one  of  them  was  dead,  and  the  other  still 
living.  lie  holds  the  obligation,  firmly  persuaded  he  should 
receive  the  twelve  contos  of  reis  before  his  death. 


216 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


CHAP.  XVIII. 

Establishments  for  Education  at  Rio. — Military  Academy. — Officers  of  the  Army  and 
Navy  taken  from  the  humble  Ranks  in  Life. — School  of  Medicine.— Meet  a Euro- 
pean Friend  at  the  Hosp  tal  of  the  Misericordia. — Immense  Establishment,  sup- 
ported by  voluntary  Contributions  of  the  Irmandades. — Singular  Usage,  confined 
to  this  Hospital — Universal  Admission. — Lunatics — Cemetery,  and  Mode  of  In- 
terment.— Number  of  Patients  and  Complaints. — Medical  Education. — No  Preju- 
dice against  Dissection  — Not  often  practised,  and  why. — Physicians  no  fixed  Fees. 
— State  of  Health  at  Rio,  sometimes  disturbed  by  Marsh  Fevers. — Alarm  of  People, 
and  Clergy  refuse  to  attend. — Ascertained  to  be  common  Fever. — Small-Pox  very 
fatal. — Sciatica,  Bobas,  communicated  by  singular  Contagion. — Bichu. — Doubtful 
Cause. — Prickly  Heat  never  leaves  some  till  they  recross  the  Equator. — Loci? -jaw 
and  Worms  in  the  Head. — Poison  by  human  Hair. — Lime  and  Dirt  — Elephantiasis. 
— Various  Symptoms. — Frightful  Effects. — Enormous  Tumors. — Unnatural  Appear- 
ance of  a Negro  at  the  Misericordia. — Remedies  peculiar  to  the  Brazilians. — Negro 
Champooing. — Bolsa  das  Cobras. — Cupping  with  Cows’  Horns. — Extraction  of 
Bichu — Black  Cock. — Evil  Eye  and  extraordinary  Amulet. — Number  of  medical 
Practitioners. 

The  great  seminary  for  ecclesiastical  preparation  was  at 
Mariana  in  the  Minas  Geraes  ; but  recently  two  universi- 
ties have  been  founded  for  the  education  of  the  laity,  one  at 
St.  Paul’s  and  the  other  at  Pernambuco.  They  as  yet  con- 
fer degrees  only  in  law,  but  it  is  supposed  their  powers  and 
system  of  education  will  be  enlarged.  Besides  these,  eve- 
ry town  has  its  primary  schools,  and  generally  one  Latin 
professor  at  least.  At  Rio  de  Janeiro  the  following  provi- 
sion is  made  for  education  : 

One  Military  Academy,  where  the  student  attends  regu- 
lar courses  of  lectures  on  mathematics,  fortification,  &c.  for 
seven  years. 

One  Naval  Academy,  from  which  the  student  embarks  at 
the  end  of  three  years. 

One  Surgical  and  Medical  Academy,  where  students 
graduate  at  the  end  of  five  years. 

One  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts,  where  painting,  sculp- 
ture, and  architecture  are  taught. 

Two  Ecclesiastical  Seminaries,  where  Latin,  Greek, 
English,  French,  rhetoric,  philosophy,  and  divinity  are 
taught. 

To  these  are  annexed,  one  professorship  of  Botany,  one 
of  Chemistry,  one  of  Mineralogy,  one  of  Physics,  one  of 
Philosophy,  one  of  Rhetoric,  one  of  English,  one  of  French, 
one  of  Greek,  and  several  of  Latin. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


217 


For  the  stipend  of  these  professors  11,000,000  reis  are 
annually  granted. 

Besides  these  there  are  two  general  schools  on  Lancas- 
ter’s principle  of  mutual  instruction,  and  a primary  school 
for  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  in  almost  every  street  in 
the  town.  The  salary  of  the  professor  of  a primary  school 
is  generally  about  three  hundred  dollars  ; the  other  profes- 
sors receive  about  five  hundred.  All  students  are  indis- 
criminately admitted  on  proper  application,  nor  is  any  dis- 
tinction allowed  to  be  made  as  to  rank  or  color  ; the  son  of 
the  poorest  artisan,  or  duskiest  mulatto,  or  free  negro,  is 
equally  entitled  to  attend,  and  receives  a gratuitous  educa- 
tion from  the  different  professors  in  the  several  classes. 

I have  visited  most  of  these  institutions,  and  I send  you 
the  result  of  my  observation.  In  the  military  and  naval 
academies,  the  students,  if  they  pass  their  first  examination 
and  wish  to  join  either  service,  become  aspirantes,  and  be- 
gin to  receive  a monthly  pay,  and  are  then  promoted  in  ro- 
tation. They  undergo  an  annual  examination,  and  if  they 
do  not  answer  sufficiently  well,  they  may  repeat  the  same 
stupes  for  another  year  ; but  if  then  they  be  found  deficient, 
tAey  are  dismissed  as  incapable.  In  the  army  they  may  at- 
tain to  a certain  rank  afterwards,  but  in  the  navy  no  student 
is  admitted,  who  has  not  fulfilled  his  term  of  years  and  an- 
swered his  examinations. 

This  facility  of  education,  and  general  admission  into  these 
seminaries,  have  filled  the  army  and  navy,  as  well  as  the 
church,  with  men  from  the  humblest  stations  in  life  ; nor  is 
any  idea  of  rank  or  family  connected  with  an  elevated  sta- 
tion in  either  service,  nor  any  other  respectability,  than  that 
which  the  personal  conduct  of  the  officer  may  give  it. 
There  is  a natural  pride  among  the  lower  orders,  to  see 
their  sons  decorated  with  military  distinctions,  and  they  pre- 
fer this  pursuit,  while  a similar  pride  withholds  persons  of 
distinction  from  placing  their  sons  in  a service,  where  they 
must  associate  with  people  of  a grade  in  society  so  infe- 
rior to  themselves.  Hence  I am  informed  that  the  greater 
number  of  officers  in  both  services,  are  sons  of  mechanics  ; 
and  hence  it  is  supposed  that  the  political  sentiments  of  the 
army  are  in  accordance  with  that  of  the  class  of  people 
from  whom  they  are  taken.  I had  not  much  opportunity  of 
mixing  with  them,  but  those  1 did  meet  were  urbane  and 
civil,  and  did  not  seem  at  all  deficient  in  the  qualifications 
of  gentlemen  and  officers  ; and  on  parade,  where  I fre- 
19 


218 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


quently  saw  them,  their  dress  and  deportment  were  not  in- 
ferior to  those  in  any  other  service. 

The  greatschoolof  medicine  is  the  hospital  oftheMiseri- 
cordia.  One  of  the  medical  attendants  is  O.  D.  Mireilles,  a 
mulatto,  and  one  of  those  students,  sent  by  the  emperor  to 
Europe  for  his  medical  education.  While  at  Paris  he  was 
introduced  to  me  and  some  of  my  family,  and  we  had  an 
opportunity  of  showing  him  some  little  attentions.  This 
he  did  not  forget  ; and  when  I met  him  afterwards  in  Bra- 
zil, he  was  anxious  to  return  it  fourfold.  He  was  an  amia- 
ble, good-natured,  and  intelligent  young  man,  and  I am  in- 
debted to  him  for  much  kindness  and  information.  To  Dr. 
Coates  also,  the  physician  of  the  British  embassy  and  res- 
ident at  Rio,  I am  much  obliged  for  some  communications 
on  the  state  of  medicine  and  diseases  in  the  country. 

The  hospital  of  the  Misericordia,  the  great  school  where 
students  see  practice,  is  an  immense  edifice  situated  near 
the  Calabou^o,  on  the  spot  where  the  first  houses  were  built7 
after  the  removal  of  the  town  within  the  harbor.  Here 
also  was  the  first  hospital  erected,  and  it  dates  its  founda- 
tion so  early  as  the  year  1582.  By  the  active  benevolence 
of  the  irmandade  of  the  order  of  Misericordia,  the  acconv 
modations  of  the  sick  were  extended  as  the  town  enlarged, 
and  they  are  still  increasing  in  proportion  to  the  increasing 
population,  above  one  hundred  thousand  crusados  having 
been  lately  expended  on  this  most  useful  charity.  It  is 
entirely  supported  by  voluntary  subscription.  There  is  no 
statute  of  Mortmain  to  restrain  the  devout  Brazilian  ; and 
at  his  death  he  leaves  almost  always  some  of  his  prop- 
erty, either  in  houses  or  lands,  to  pious  or  charitable  uses. 
The  former  are  generally  marked  by  the  signature  of  the 
order  of  the  irmandade  to  which  they  are  left,  and  amongst 
them  is  the  name  of  this.  I have  been  surprised  in  walking 
through  the  streets  of  Rio,  to  see  the  numbers  of  houses 
which  had  the  word  u Misericordia  ” written  on  them,  and 
would  have  inferred  that  a considerable  part  of  the  town  had 
been  left  to  support  this  excellent  charity.  Among  the  other 
sources  of  revenue  is  one  peculiar,  I believe,  to  Rio.  The 
people,  as  I noticed  before,  are  vain  of  their  funerals,  and 
go  to  a considerable  expense  in  decorating  their  coffins  al- 
together beyond  their  means.  To  gratify  this  desire,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  limit  the  expense,  the  Misericordia  keeps 
and  lets  out  splendid  coffins  for  hire.  The  body  is  carried 
in  one  of  them  to  the  grave,  where  it  is  deposited  naked  or 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


219 


sewed  up  in  a cloth,  and  the  coffin  is  sent  back  and  hired 
to  another  corpse.  This  practice  creates  a considerable 
revenue,  and  the  irmandade  of  the  Misericordia  are  alone 
allowed  to  employ  it. 

With  my  friend  D.  Mireilles,  I frequently  visited  this 
hospital,  where  he  passed  every  morning  in  assiduous  at- 
tendance. The  edifice  is  a vast  irregular  building,  formed 
of  additions  made  at  different  periods  ; the  nucleus  of  which, 
is  a quadrangle  with  galleries  round  it,  which  lead  to  the 
different  wards.  On  one  side  of  the  hall  of  entrance  is  the 
board  room  where  the  directors  sit  ; on  the  other  a very 
large  pharmacy  or  apothecary’s  shop,  where  the  medicines 
prescribed  for  the  patients  are  compounded.  It  is  the  gen- 
eral hospital  for  all  ranks,  slaves  as  well  as  free  ; and  for 
all  sexes  and  diseases,  surgical  as  well  as  medical  ; sepa- 
rate wards  being  appropriated  for  £ach  class  of  patients. 
Every  one  presenting  himself  at  the  gate  is  indiscriminately 
admitted,  and  placed  in  the  department  of  his  disease,  but 
you  see  no  separation  of  persons  ; black  and  white,  slave 
and  free,  occupy  contiguous  beds  in  the  same  wards  ; and 
distemper  here,  like  death  elsewhere,  levels  all  distinction. 

From  the  main  building  runs  a long  corridor,  having 
cells  at  each  side  for  lunatic  patients,  with  whom  severity 
is  never,  and  even  coercion  seldom,  resorted  to.  The 
natural  disposition  of  the  Brazilians  is  averse  to  both  ; but 
besides  that,  they  see  here,  as  well  as  elsewhere,  that  such 
treatment  only  exasperates  the  cause  of  the  disease.  In- 
deed the  patients  seemed  very  harmless  ; their  malady 
principally  had  a religious  tendency  ; and  one  man  always 
followed  me,  and  whenever  I turned  round,  I saw  him 
with  uplifted  hands  behind  my  back,  praying  for  the  sal- 
vation of  my  soul  ; his  own  he  thought  already  secure. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  corridor  is  a great  cemetery,  which 
is  the  general  receptacle  of  the  poor,  die  where  they  may. 
The  mode  of  burial  is  very  summary  : a large  deep  trench 
is  dug,  in  which  the  bodies  are  laid.  Before  they  are  de- 
posited here,  they  are  placed  on  a platform,  in  a small 
house  in  the  middle  of  the  cemetery,  till  several  are  collect- 
ed together,  when  a funeral  service  is  said  for  them  all, 
and  they  are  deposited  in  the  trench  without  coffins  ; some- 
times naked,  but  more  usually  sewed  up  in  coarse  canvass,  or 
the  fragment  of  a mat,  and  their  bodies  are  laid  across, 
generally  the  head  of  one  to  the  feet  of  the  other.  I never 
visited  this  place  when  four  or  five  bodies  were  not  lying  for 


220 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


interment  ; and  I always  met  others  carried  in,  while  I 
went  out.  Besides  the  cemetery  is  a dissecting  room, 
where  every  student  may  freely  take  whatever  body  he 
pleases  to  anatomize,  without  any  apprehension  from  preju- 
dice or  prosecution. 

When  I went  over  the  wards,  there  were  670  patients 
confined  with  various  complaints.  The  greater  number 
were  febrile  cases,  but  not  of  a dangerous,  or  a contagious 
kind,  which  they  suppose  do  not  exist  in  the  country  ; and 
I was  sorry  to  find  a great  many  syphilitic.  These,  with 
hydrocele,  eruptions  of  various  characters,  and  different 
degrees  of  tumors  resembling  elephantiasis,  constituted  the 
great  mass  of  the  diseases  of  the  hospital.  The  doctor 
went  round,  accompanied  by  a number  of  students.  He 
stopped  at  every  bed  ; a reporter  took  down  the  symptoms, 
on*  which  he  made  clinical  remarks,  which  the  students 
entered  in  their  books,  and  he  passed  on.  Everything 
was  conducted  with  the  greatest  regularity.  The  place 
was  whitewashed,  clean,  and  sweet,  though  the  wards  were 
so  crowded,  that  it  was  necessary  to  have  three  ranges  of 
beds,  with  hardly  a passage  between  them.  It  is  pro- 
posed to  build  several  new  additions,  to  enlarge  it  to  the 
rapid  increase  of  population  ; and  it  will  then  be  one  of 
the  most  extensive,  as  wTell  as  one  of  the  most  liberal  insti- 
tutions of  the  kind,  that  ever  was  supported  by  the  volun- 
tary contributions  of  private  individuals.  Two  physicians 
and  three  surgeons  are  in  constant  attendance. 

Immediately  above  the  Misericordia,  on  a hill,  is  the 
great  military  hospital,  which  is  exclusively  for  soldiers  ; 
and  is  clean  and  well  regulated  as  any  similar  institution 
in  Europe. 

Formerly,  it  was  the  universal  practice  for  physicians  to 
graduate  at  Coimbra,  and  surgeons  only  were  educated  in 
the  country,  who  were  held  in  low  estimation,  classed  with 
barbers,  and  the  sons  of  very  poor  parents.  Still  a classical 
education  is  not  necessary  ; as  by  a particular  edict,  ail 
their  prescriptions  must  be  written  in  the  vulgar  tongue  ; 
and  the  quantity  of  the  medicine  prescribed,  not  in  nume- 
rals, but  written  at  length  in  letters,  similar  to  an  act  passed 
in  England  for  that  purpose.  Students,  however,  must  at- 
tend a prescribed  course  of  study,  during  five  sessions,  each 
extending  eight  or  nine  months  ; they  must  understand 
French  before  they  can  matriculate  ; and  an  examination 
of  their  progress  by  the  whole  of  the  professors,  takes  place 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


221 


at  the  end  of  every  course.  Having  completed  these  stud- 
ies, they  are  examined  by  a faculty,  who  decide  as  to  their 
qualifications  and  capability  to  practise  medicine.  No  de- 
grees are  at  any  period  granted  ; hut  a diploma,  or  license, 
declaring  the  person  qualified,  is  given  ; and  under  this 
sanction  he  becomes  a practitioner.  Formerly,  it  was  nec- 
essary to  obtain  a license  from  the  physico  mor,  or  cirugiao 
mor,  of  the  empire,  for  which  a fee  was  paid.  These  two 
offices,  however,  were  abolished  during  a late  session  of  the 
chambers,  as  useless,  and  opening  the  way  to  great  partiali- 
ty and  corruption  ; and  in  their  place  was  substituted  the 
faculty  of  examiners. 

As  there  is  no  prejudice  existing  among  the  people  against 
the  dissection  of  dead  bodies,  or  no  law  to  prevent  it,  that 
important  part  of  medical  education  is  perfectly  free  and 
unrestricted.  It  is  well  known  to  the  public,  that  anatomy 
is  necessarily  taught  by  dissection,  and  the  constant  prac- 
tice of  the  students  ; but  not  the  smallest  repugnance  is  ev- 
er expressed  on  the  subject ; nor  do  poor  or  destitute  per- 
sons show  the  least  dislike  to  enter  the  hospital,  because 
they  know  their  bodies  will  be  subject  to  the  knife  of  the 
anatomist.  The  people  are  remarkably  careless  about  the 
disposal  of  their  dead  friends.  They  often  told  me,  that 
their  immortal  souls  was  the  only  object  of  their  solicitude, 
as  they  knew  their  bodies  were  nothing  more  than  clay,  and 
deserved  no  more  care  when  the  immaterial  spirit  had  left 
it.  The  bones  they  preserve,  as  they  would  a lock  of  their 
hair  ; and  annex  no  more  sanctity  or  respect  to  them  than 
they  would  to  any  other  personal  memorial.  Dissection, 
however,  is  not  so  often  resorted  to  as  might  be  supposed, 
from  the  great  facility  afforded  ; the  rapid  putrescency  of  the 
body  after  death,  in  a warm  climate,  and  the  necessity  for 
interment  within  twentyfour  hours  after  decease,  are  con- 
siderable impediments  to  the  practice.  When  a cadaver  is 
brought  for  the  purpose,  it  is  always  removed  the  next,  and 
generally  the  same  day,  after  the  demonstration  or  lecture 
is  over  ; and  a pupil  has  rarely  the  benefit  of  tracing  the 
parts,  by  a minute  and  continued  inspection  of  the  same  body, 
or  of  making  an  anatomicaf  preparation  ; though  there  is 
nothing  to  prevent  his  taking  as  many  as  he  pleases  for  the 
purpose.  Dr.  Coates  informed  me,  that  he  dissected  many 
bodies  in  the  anatomy  hall,  and  never  met  any  student,  with- 
in the  building,  engaged  in  the  same  pursuit. 


222 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Nor  are  there  many  post-mortem  examinations.  Where 
it  may  be  necessary  to  ascertain  the  nature  of  a complaint, 
of  which  a patient  died,  either  for  the  information  or  the 
benefit  of  the  surviving  part  of  a family,  neither  the  friends 
of  the  deceased,  nor  the  sick  person  before  death,  ever 
seem  to  have  the  smallest  objection  : though  the  Portu- 
guese physicians  say  there  were  formerly  prejudices  against 
it,  and  it  was  necessary  to  have  the  permission  of  the  police 
for  that  purpose.  During  a residence  and  practice  of  ten 
years  in  the  pountry,  Dr.  Coates  knew  of  only  three  or 
four  cases  of  opening  bodies  ; and  two  took  place  because 
of  some  difference  of  opinion  with  respect  to  the  cause  of 
death. 

There  are  no  fixed  fees  : physicians  and  surgeons  prac- 
tise indiscriminately  in  every  branch  of  the  profession. 
Both,  likewise,  are  called  in  as  accouchers.  The  house 
of  a midwife  is  distinguished  by  a white  cross,  marked  on 
the  door. 

The  diseases  most  prevalent  and  most  severe,  are  bil- 
ious remitting  fevers,  dysentery,  and  liver  complaints  ; and 
these  are  of  most  common  occurrence  in  the  hot  season, 
during  the  months  of  January,  February,  and  March.  They, 
however,  are  less  severe  in  their  character,  yield  to  a mild- 
er treatment,  and  are  of  longer  duration  when  they  do  ter- 
minate fatally,  than  in  any  country  between  the  tropics. 
Indeed,  the  general  salubrity  of  Brazil,  and  its  exception 
from  disease,  is  evinced  in  many  instances.  At  one  time, 
there  were  here  so  many  ships  of  war,  that  it  was  thought 
necessary  to  establish  for  them  an  hospital  on  shore.  Col. 
Cunningham,  who  had  a superintendence  in  it,  informed 
me,  that  out  of  6000  persons,  composing  the  crews,  many 
of  them  were  of  the  most  careless  and  intemperate  habits  ; 
and  the  utmost  he  remembers  to  be  in  the  hospital  at  the 
most  sickly  time,  was  sixty  ; and  of  these  very  few  died. 

Occasionally,  however,  a greater  degree  of  sickness  pre- 
vails. The  low  alluvial  soil  at  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay, 
extending  from  the  Organ  Mountains  to  the  Atlantic,  is  in- 
tersected by  numerous  streams,  and  liable  to  inundations 
and  stagnant  water.  In  February,  .1 829,  all  that  district, 
particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  Mage,  was  attacked,  during 
the  heats  and  rains,  with  an  intermittent  disease  that  had 
all  the  character  of  yellow  fever  ; and  they  apprehended 
that  this  scourge  of  other  parts  of  America,  had  been  at 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


2*23 


length  imported  and  established  in  Brazil  ; and  even  priests 
refused  to  visit  the  sick  in  that  district. 

During  this  time  the  host  was  seen  in  frequent  proces- 
sion through  the  streets  of  Rio,  sometimes  carried  by  night 
in  a carriage  attended  by  tapers.  The  first  time  I met  it, 
I was  at  a loss  to  conceive  what  it  was  ; people  on  foot 
knelt  down,  and  those  on  horseback  alighted,  and  reverent- 
ly took  off  their  hats  while  it  was  passing.  The  frequency 
of  this  sight  added  greatly  to  the  alarm  of  the  people. — 
Physicians  were  sent  over,  however,  and  a close  examina- 
tion and  inspection  took  place,  and  their  reports  calmed  the 
rising  apprehensions.  It  appeared  that  it  was  a common 
fever,  and  neither  dangerous  nor  contagious,  though  very 
general  ; and  the  timid  priests,  whose  conduct  tended  not 
a little  to  spread  the  alarm,  were  severely  reprimanded  by 
their  superiors,  and  one  was  sent  out  of  the  country. 

Small-pox,  called  by  the  people  bexigas,  sometimes  is 
very  prevalent  and  dangerous.  So  early  as  the  year  1811, 
vaccination  had  been  introduced  by  Dom  John,  and  since 
then  orders  were  issued  to  establish  in  Rio,  and  other  cap- 
tainces  of  Brazil,  vaccine  institutions  ; two  physicians  now 
attend  at  the  consistorial  church  of  the  Rosario,  and  all 
persons  are  directed  to  bring  their  children  to  be  inocula- 
ted by  them  every  Sunday  ; asd  for  the  support  of  this  in- 
stitution government  allocate  annually  1,000  milreis.  In 
April,  1828,  however,  the  small-pox  broke  out  in  the  prov- 
inces of  Ceara  and  Espiritu  Santo,  and  nearly  depopulated 
some  districts.  All  the  vaccine  matter  sent  from  Rio  failed, 
and  those  who  relied  on  its  efficacy,  fell  victims  afterwards 
to  small  pox.  It  was  supposed  that  from  this  and  other  epi- 
demic diseases,  excessive  drought,  and  the  number  of  per- 
sons drawn  to  the  army  ofthe  south,  the  population  of  Cea- 
ra, which  four  years  before  consisted  of  200,000  persons, 
was  reduced,  when  I was  in  Brazil,  to  half  that  number. 
The  alarm  of  small-pox  was  so  great,  that  people  eagerly 
caught  at  every  information  about  it.  My  brother  had  been 
engaged  in  introducing  vaccination  among  the  Indians  of 
North  America,  and  had  published  some  notices  of  its  effi- 
cacy, and  the  terrible  effects  he  had  witnessed  ofthe  rava- 
ges of  the  small-pox.  These  notices  were  extracted  into 
the  Brazil  papers,  and  recommended  to  general  attention  ; 
and  application  was  made  in  England  for  efficacious  matter, 
to  be  sent  out  hermetically  sealed. 


224 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


Sciatica  is  also  a complaint  very  common  to  travellers  in 
Brazil,  particularly  during  the  rainy  season.  It  is  supposed 
by  some  to  arise  from  the  heat  of  the  back  of  the  mule  be- 
low, and  the  wet  above  ; and,  as  a preventive,  they  fre- 
quently ride  with  a saddle-cloth  of  dressed  sheep-skin,  with 
the  wool  on,  and  I was  warned  not  to  travel  without  such  a 
precaution. 

A disease,  called  in  the  country  bobas,  is  frequently  at- 
tended with  fearful  consequences.  It  resembles  the  fram- 
besia  or  yaws  of  the  West  Indies.  The  body  swells  and 
breaks  out  into  ulcers,  which  have  often  the  appearance  of 
mulberries,  and  the  patients  become  exceedingly  loathsome. 
It  is  infectious  by  contact,  but  is  also  communicated,  ac- 
cording to  the  theory  of  the  country,  in  a manner  that  de- 
fies all  precaution.  The  eye  sometimes  is  partially  affected, 
and  a small  fly  is  then  attracted  by  the  discharge  ; this  in- 
sect comes  loaded  with  the  contagious  matter,  and  commu- 
nicates it  to  the  next  person,  on  whose  face  he  happens  to 
alight. 

Another  problematical  insect  communicates  a disease 
which  is  followed,  in  some  instances,  by  very  serious  effects. 
This  is  called  the  bichu  or  chigre,  and  by  the  negroes  of 
Brazil,  beesh.  A small  tumor  is  felt  in  the  foot,  generally 
in  the  heel  or  under  the  toes,  attended  with  a slight  pain, 
and  some  itching.  On  opening  it,  a sac  is  discovered  bed- 
ded in  the  flesh,  sometimes  larger  than  a pea  ; and  on  ex- 
amining it  with  a microscope,  I found  it  to  be  a complete 
nidus,  filled  with  perfectly  formed  eggs.  If  suffered  to  con- 
tinue, or  taken  out  incautiously,  so  that  the  sac  be  broken, 
a considerable  inflammation  ensues,  and  it  degenerates  into 
a foul  ulcer,  which  often  terminates  in  a permanent  swelling, 
and  an  incurable  sore,  attended  with  total  lameness.  This 
disorder  is  universal  among  negroes,  and  the  poorer  classes 
who  walk  through  dust  or  sand,  without  covering  to  the 
feet  ; nor  do  even  shoes  or  boots  protect  those  who  wear 
them,  as  there  was  scarcely  a single  person  of  my  acquaint- 
ance, who  had  not  been  attacked  at  some  time.  Many  of 
the  unfortunate  Irish  returned  home  incurably  lame  by  it. 
But  the  circumstance  which  renders  the  origin  of  the  dis- 
ease a matter  of  obscurity,  is,  that  the  parent  insect,  I be- 
lieve, has  never  been  seen,  nor,  though  the  sac  is  evidently 
a nidus,  containing  organized  eggs,  has  it  been  known  to 
mature  within  it  any  living  offspring.  I have  been  exceed- 
ingly curious  to  discover  them,  but  I never  could  detect 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


225 


either  one  or  the  other,  nor  could  any  person  to  whom  I 
applied  for  information,  distinctly  describe  them,  as  things 
they  had  ever  seen.  It  is,  however,  the  universal  opinion 
of  the  country  that  the  disease  is  caused  by  some  living 
thing,  and  hence  it  is  called  bichu,  or  the  insect,  and  natur- 
alists consider  it  a kind  of  flea,  (Pulex  minimus). 

Another  disease  very  universal,  and  which  no  stranger 
escapes,  is  the  prickly  heat,  which  generally  attacks  Euro- 
peans in  summer,  and  usually  after  bathing  in  salt  water. 
It  first  appears  in  the  form  of  pimples,  which  burst  out  on 
the  neck  or  waist,  or  such  places  as  are  liable  to  increased 
heat,  from  the  confinement  or  pressure  of  any  part  of  the 
dress.  F rom  hence  it  proceeds  in  succession  over  the  face, 
breast,  back,  and  limbs,  till  the  whole  body  is  covered  by 
crustaceous  eruptions,  exuding  sometimes  a fluid,  but  more 
usually  chalky  particles,  the  size  of  a pin’s  point,-  with  a 
white  branny  scurf  between.  The  eruption  is  attended  with 
a very  disagreeable  and  painful  sensation  of  pricking,  as  if 
the  skin  was  actually  perforated  with  pins  and  needles. 
This  alternates  with  a violent  itching,  which  it  is  impossible 
to  resist,  and  it  is  always  followed  by  a great  soreness  of 
the  parts.  From  the  unceasing  and  constant  irritation,  the 
patient  has  really  no  refpose  night  nor  day,  and  the  only 
consolation  is,  that  it  is  not  only  not  dangerous,  but  a proof 
of  rude  and  vigorous  health,  which,  in  fact,  the  person  en- 
joys in  every  other  respect,  while  it  continues.  No  reme- 
dies, therefore,  are  ever  taken  to  remove  or  suppress  it,  as 
it  is  justly  considered  a salutary  effect  of  nature,  to  throw 
off  morbific  matter  from  some  internal  part.  As  the  wea- 
ther cools  the  pustules  gradually  disappear,  and  are  suc- 
ceeded by  a swelling  of  the  hands  and  legs,  with  an  exfolia- 
tion of  the  skin,  as  in  the  sequelae  of  scarlatina.  When  I 
first  arrived  at  Rio,  I escaped  it  by  going  up  to  the  higher 
and  cooler  country  ; but  it  only  postponed  its  attack,  for, 
on  my  return,  it  seized  me,  as  it  had  done  others,  and  did 
not  leave  me  till  I again  passed  the  equator. 

Lock-jaw  is  not  a disease  so  common  in  Brazil  as  in  the 
West  Indies  ; but  it  sometimes  occurs  from  punctures  and 
wounds  ; as,  also,  another  of  an  extraordinary  nature.  A 
negro  boy  was  pointed  out  to  me,  who  had  complained  of  a 
violent  pain  in  his  head,  particularly  across  the  eyes,  at- 
tended with  much  fever.  This  continued  for  two  days,  and 
on  the  third  a number  of  worms  dropped  from  his  nose,  and 
in  a short  time  after,  came  down  also  from  the  roof  of  his 


226 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


mouth.  They  continued  to  fall  for  two  or  three  days,  and 
then  he  was  entirely  free  from  pain.  They  were  about  half 
an  inch  long,  white,  and  terminated  by  a brown  head,  ex- 
actly resembling  those  generated  in  putrid  flesh  : he  could 
remember  nothing  of  a fly  or  any  other  insect  getting  into 
his  nose.  He  was  a native  of  Mozambique,  and  had  never 
heard  of  the  disease  in  his  own  country.  It  was  supposed 
these  insects  were  generated  in  the  frontal  sinus. 

The  people  labor  under  various  symptoms  of  undefined 
illness,  which  are  frequently  attributed  to  the  effects  of  poi- 
son, administered  by  their  slaves.  Besides  the  common 
deleterious  vegetables  and  minerals,  they  have  secret  means 
of  destroying  life,  which,  without  producing  immediate  or 
alarming  effects,  gradually  undermine  the  constitution,  and 
cause  slow  but  certain  death.  One  of  these,  I was  in- 
formed, was  human  hair,  cut  into  very  minute  portions, 
which  attach  themselves  to  the  coats  of  the  stomach  and  in- 
testines, and  produce  their  effect  by  continued  erosion.  It 
is  probable,  however,  that  many  of  the  symptoms  attributed 
to  such  causes,  are  merely  sensations  of  dyspepsia,  to  which 
the  Brazilians  are  liable. 

Negroes  often  bring  on  themselves  maladies  by  devour- 
ing dirt  and  lime.  It  is  often  supposed,  however,  that  this 
propensity  is  the  effect.,  and  not  the  cause  of  disease,  and 
arises  from  the  morbid  state  of  the  stomach,  similar  to  an 
affection  often  found  in  Europe  to  accompany  worms  in 
children. 

But  the  disease  most  revolting  and  most  general  in  Rio, 
is  a tendency  to  local  swellings  and  enlargements  in  the  form 
of  elephantiasis.  Elephantiasis,  properly  so  called,  is  not  a 
common  disease,  I am  told,  in  the  country;  but  the  enormous 
tumors  of  the  lower  limbs  that  cause  them  to  resemble  the 
legs  of  an  elephant,  constricted  by  bands  and  rings,  is  a 
frightful  deformity  that  everywhere  strikes  the  stranger, 
and  is  sometimes  attended  with  that  blotched  scrofulous 
skin  on  the  face,  which  Quintus  Serenus  describes,  as  the 
distinctive  character  of  the  elephantiasis.  It  is  supposed  to 
be  a disease  of  the  lymphatics.  It  sometimes  begins  with  a 
constitutional  disturbance  of  the  system,  and  sometimes 
with  a local  pain  only  in  the  part  about  to  be  affected,  which 
is  succeeded  by  rigors  and  other  febrile  symptoms.  When 
it  attacks  one  of  the  inferior  limbs,  it  is  generally  first  dis- 
cerned above  the  inner  ankle,  and  rapidly  extends  up  the 
leg  and  thigh  to  the  inguinal  glands,  along  the  course  of  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


227 


lymphatic  vessels,  which  feel  cordy,  exquisitely  tender  to 
the  touch,  and  marked  by  a line  of  red  in  their  course. 
Sometimes  the  complaint  begins  higher  up,  and  extends  to 
the  glands  of  the  axilla,  which  swell  and  suppurate.  When 
the  inflammation  subsides  it  leaves  behind  it  an  enormous 
tumor,  either  in  the  form  of  hydrocele  or  tumified  legs,  and 
sometimes  both  together,  which  continue  with  the  patient 
generally  for  the  remainder  of  his  life  ; but  are  attended 
with  no  other  inconvenience,  than  loading  him  with  a bur- 
densome mass  of  flesh,  which  he  is  obliged  to  carry  about 
with  him,  and  which  seems  to  be  coagulable  lymph,  thrown 
out  by  the  vessels  when  in  an  excited  state,  but  now  be- 
come inert  and  insensible. 

Connected  with  this  is  the  erisepella,  as  the  Brazilians 
call  it,  which  sometimes  begins  with  a pain  in  the  gland, 
succeeded  by  fever  in  a high  degree  ; after  which  the  dis- 
ease declares  itself,  often  affecting  the  head  and  bringing 
on  a kind  of  stupor,  considered  very  alarming.  Notwith- 
standing this,  for  the  first  three  days  no  treatment  is  applied, 
even  if  the  patient  should  be  in  the  most  imminent  danger 
from  excitement.  After  that,  emetics  and  cathartics  are 
administered,  and  flour  and  absorbent  powders  applied  to 
the  limb  ; the  Brazilians  being  greatly  apprehensive  of  any 
wet  or  cold  application.  The  disease,  when  it  once  attacks  a 
person,  is  apt  to  return  on  the  slightest  alteration  of  the 
usual  diet  or  exposure  to  cold,  and  seems  peculiarly  con- 
nected with  the  digestive  organs. 

It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  one-tenth  of  the  people 
of  Rio  are  attacked  with  this  disease,  in  one  form  or  other* 
I never  went  out  that  I did  not  meet  with  various  objects, 
both  white  and  black,  who  exhibited  the  most  horrid  appear- 
ance, dragging  after  them  the  parts  of  the  body  afflicted  by 
it.  The  steps  of  all  the  convents  and  churches  are  filled 
with  miserable  black  and  mulatto  slaves,  who  being  no 
longer  capable  of  work,  from  this  complaint,  were  lingering 
out  a miserable  existence  on  the  charity  of  the  fathers. 
Sometimes  the  tumors  were  covered  with  very  foul  ulcers. 
I was  one  day  in  the  neighborhood  of  Rio  botanizing  in  a 
hedge,  and  two  white  men  came  up  to  me.  JSeeing  me 
gathering  plants,  they  supposed  me  to  be  a doctor  cul- 
ling simples,  and  applied  to  me  for  a cure.  They  pulled 
up  their  pantaloons  and  showed  me  misshapen  limbs,  nearly 
as  thick  as  their  emaciated  bodies,  constricted  in  some  places 
into  folds,  by  circular  bands,  and  covered  with  foul  green 


228 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


sores  too  horrible  almost  to  look  at.  I was  sorry  I knew 
nothing  that  could  relieve  them,  particularly  so  as  they  said 
they  had  been  dismissed  from  the  hospitals,  and  given  up 
by  all  the  physicians  as  incurable.  I was  frequently  ac- 
costed in  the  same  way. 

The  other  modification  of  it  is  still  more  common.  I con- 
stantly met  people  in  the  streets  of  all  colors,  who  seemed 
scarcely  able  to  walk,  from  the  immense  tumors  which  they 
carried.  Their  dress  is  generally  enlarged  into  the  form  of 
a sack,  in  which  the  protuberance  is  deposited  ; and  how- 
ever unsightly  and  morbid  it  may  appear  to  others,  it  does 
not  seem  at  all  to  affect  the  health  or  spirits  of  the  afflicted 
persons,  who  walk  about  and  do  their  ordinary  business 
with  as  much  activity  as  if  they  labored  under  no  such  im- 
pediment. I have  observed  that  the  corpulent  shop-keepers 
of  Rio,  whose  habits  are  generally  sedentary  and  their  dis- 
positions indolent,  are  affected  in  this  way  in  a larger  pro- 
portion than  any  other  class.  They  are  very  fond  of  cards 
and  drafts,  and  when  they  sit  together,  I am  told,  they  form 
a table  of  these  various  tumors,  on  which  they  play  their 
game.  It  is  almost  exclusively  confined  to  the  capital,  and 
but  little  seen  in  the  upper  country  of  the  interior,  where  it 
appears  to  the  people  an  unknown  thing.  Some  time  ago, 
a traveller  from  Rio  affected  in  this  way  was  proceeding  to 
the  Minas  Geraes,  and  was  stopped  at  the  registry  of  Rio 
Parahida,  where  they  make  a strict  examination.  Suppos- 
ing that  he  carried  concealed  goods  in  his  sack,  they  treated 
him  so  roughly  in  search  of  them,  that  he  died  of  the  injury 
shortly  after. 

But  the  most  extraordinary  and  almost  preternatural  ex- 
ample of  this  kind,  I saw  in  the  hospital  of  the  Misericordia. 
He  was  a negro,  aged  about  twentyfive,  without  any  injury 
or  apparent  cause  to  account  for  it  : the  tumor  began  to 
enlarge,  and  continued,  unaccompanied  by  much  distress, 
to  extend  itself  till  it  reached  the  ground.  When  he  stood 
sideways,  the  sack  projected  itself  like  a huge  bag  as  big 
as  the  rest  of  his  body,  before  and  behind  ; and  when  he 
turned  his  back,  it  was  so  large  as  to  conceal  his  legs, 
though  they  also  were  enormously  swelled  with  elephantia- 
sis, and  stood  like  misshapen  posts,  when  seen  at  each  side. 
From  his  hips  downward  he  presented  the  most  extraordi- 
nary and  unnatural  spectacle  that  a human  being  could  be 
supposed  susceptible  of ; but  from  his  waist  upwards,  he 
was  muscular  and  well  proportioned,  and  his  face  healthy 


NOTICES  OF  brazil; 


229 


and  comely  in  a degree  unusual  in  a negro’s  countenance. 
He  was  in  other  respects  in  high  health,  and  so  full  of  spir- 
its that  he  was  always  singing  and  dancing.  His  lower 
extremities  were  clad  in  a loose  bag  of  coarse  cotton,  out 
of  which  nothing  was  seen  but  his  feet.  In  this  way  he 
supported,  without  any  inconvenience,  an  excrescence 
weighing  more  than  thirty  pounds, — was  never  absent  from 
the  negro  dances,  which  he  always  led, — and  was  the  mer- 
riest and  most  active  attendant  in  the  hospital. 

Hydrocele  in  its  common  form,  unconnected  with  elephan- 
tiasis, is  also  a very  usual  disease,  and  sometimes  a fatal  one 
to  strangers  ; several  young  men  in  foreign  mercantile  hous- 
es, lately  fell  victims  to  it.  It  is  usually  attributed  to  excess  ; 
to  indulgence  in  high  seasoned  dishes,  in  which  Brazilian 
cookery  delights  ; and  to  bad  water.  It  is  treated  as  in 
Europe,  by  puncture,  tapping,  and  injection,  generally  with 
success. 

Besides  the  remedies  adopted  from  European  practice, 
now  generally  followed  in  the  country,  there  are  some  which 
the  natives  adhere  to,  as  much  more  efficacious  ; and  a 
dernier  resort  when  regular  treatment  fails.  A friend  of 
mine  was  seized  with  a painful  attack  of  sciatica,  from  trav- 
elling, as  he  supposed,  on  a mule  in  wet  weather.  Having 
used  European  means  without  success,  a Brazilian  per- 
suaded him  to  try  his  remedy.  He  laid  him  on  his  face, 
bared  his  back,  and  then  caused  one  of  his  negroes  to 
stand  on  his  hips,  and  trample  on  him  with  his  naked  warm 
feet.  At  first  he  gave  him  intolerable  pain  ; but  by  de- 
grees he  felt  himself  considerably  relieved,  and  in  a short 
time  the  pain  entirely  ceased  ; and  he  attributes  it  to  this 
rough  but  effectual  mode  of  negro  champooing. 

On  another  occasion,  a Brazilian,  at  whose  house  I stop- 
ped, told  me  he  had  a bag,  which  he  said  was  the  dispensary 
which  supplied  his  whole  establishment  with  the  only  med- 
icines they  used  ; and  calling  his  slave,  he  directed  him  to 
bring  his  bolsa  das  cobras,  or  purse  of  serpents.  His  slave 
immediately  brought  a canvass  bag,  from  which  he  pro- 
duced some  dried  skinned  snakes  ; and  he  informed  me 
they  were  a sovereign  remedy  for  any  disease  of  the  chest. 
Whenever  he  or  any  of  his  family  were  so  affected,  he 
took  a joint  of  the  animal,  pounded  it  in  a mortar,  and  col- 
lecting some  herbs,  he  boiled  them  together.  A few  spoon- 
fuls of  this,  he  said,  never  failed  torremove  the  most  obsti- 


230 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL, 


nate  attack.  This  is  a remnant  of  that  faith,  which  the 
Faculty  of  Europe  once  placed  in  viper  broth. 

For  rheumatic  pains,  they  use  cupping,  in  a curious  way, 
and  a negro  is  generally  the  operator.  I was  one  day 
passing  through  a street,  in  the  rear  of  the  palace,  and 
I saw  a negro  doctor  administering  to  some  patients, 
who  were  sitting  on  the  steps  of  a church.  He  bound  the 
arm  and  shoulder  of  a woman,  who  seemed  in  great  pain  ; 
and  making  slight  scarifications  in  several  places  with  the 
broken  blade  of  a razor,  he  patted  the  parts  with  the  flat, 
till  the  blood  began  to  ooze  out  ; he  then  placed  small 
cow-horns  over  them,  and  applying  his  mouth  to  a perfora- 
tion at  the  tip,  he  dexterously  exhausted  the  air,  and  then 
stopping  it  with  clay,  it  remained  firmly  attached  to  the 
skin.  In  this  way  he  fastened  seven  horns  from  the  elbow 
to  the  shoulder,  where  they  exhibited  a very  extraordinary 
appearance.  When  removed,  the  arm  was  covered  with 
blood  ; and  the  woman  said  she  was  greatly  relieved. 

Negroes  are  always  the  operators,  also,  for  extracting 
the  bichu.  They  dexterously,  with  the  point  of  a blunt 
knife,  raise  the  skin  and  open  the  flesh  round  the  sore, 
without  drawing  blood  or  breaking  the  sac  ; and  thus  ex- 
tract the  whole  nidus  without  disturbing  a single  egg. 
They  then  fill  the  aperture  left  behind  with  snuff,  or  the 
ashes  of  tobacco  ; and  it  generally  heals  up  without  any 
further  inconvenience.  I saw  a negro  extract  five  of 
these  little  sacs  from  the  heel  of  a man,  which  left  so  many 
deep  and  bloodless  cavities,  that  it  looked  like  a honey- 
comb. 

But  the  last  resort  of  a Brazilian  when  all  other  things 
fail,  is  the  blood  of  a black  cock,  which  is  a remedy  for 
every  disease,  but  particularly  erisepella.  Walking  with  a 
friend  one  day,  we  met  a man  who  was  laboring  under  this 
complaint  ; he  was  asked  if  he  had  tried  some  particular 
medicines  which  were  named,  and  he  said  he  had  not,  be- 
cause he  had  tried  the  only  effectual  cure  in  the  world,  and 
as  that  had  not  succeeded,  he  gave  up  all  the  rest  in  des- 
pair. Curious  to  know  what  it  was,  I inquired,  and  was 
informed  it  was  the  blood  of  a Mack  cock,  taken  internally, 
and  smeared  over  the  part  affected.  The  man  died  some- 
time after,  obstinately  refusing  to  try  any  other  remedy. 

Diseases  of  children  that  cannot  be  accounted  for,  are 
attributed  to  the  effects  of  an  evil  eye  ; and  the  Brazilians 
are  as  much  addicted  to  a belief  in  this  fascination  as  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


231 


Romans  of  old,  or  the  Greeks  of  modern  times  ; and  they 
take  as  many  precautions  against  it.  One  of  them  is  rather 
a singular  device.  They  suspend  over  the  head  of  the 
child  to  be  protected,  a little  hand,  with  the  thumb  placed 
between  the  fingers,  which  they  call  a figa.  It  is  made  of 
gold,  silver,  coral,  and  other  materials,  and  sold  in  all  the 
silversmiths’  shops,  though  they  annex  to  it  a gross  allusion. 
This  emblem  had  been  very  common  among  the  Romans  ; 
and  in  David’s  engraving  of  the  lamps  dug  up  at  Pompeii, 
is  an  exact  representation  of  the  figa  of  the  Brazilian  chil- 
dren, connected  with  things  which  leave  no  doubt  of  its 
coarseness.*  But  what  connexion  the  device  protecting  a 
child  from  an  evil  eye,  can  have  with  this  symbol,  as  used 
by  the  ancients,  I am  at  a loss  to  conjecture. 

The  number  of  native  medical  men  practising  at  Rio, 
who  are  distinguished  as  doutores  em  medicina , amounts  to 
eighteen  ; the  surgeons  to  one  hundred  and  five,  and  the 
dentists  to  five.  There  are  besides,  eight  or  ten  French  and 
English  practitioners. 


CHAP.  XIX. 

Academy  of  Fine  Arts.— Picture  of  the  Coronation  —Its  Fate.— Students.— National 
Museum.— Indian  Remains. — Puerile  Models. — Fecundity  of  Brazil  in  Objects  of 
Natural  History. — Dawn  of  Literature. — Works  of  native  Authors  printed  at  Rio. — 
Geographical  Anecdote.— Fifteen  Periodicals  at  Rio.— Character  of  some.— Aurora, 
Analista,  Malagueta. — French  Paper  attacked  by  them  all. — “Noticias  Particu- 
lars ” of  Journal  do  Commercio. — Correspondencia,  curious  Mode  of  Libel.— Ex- 
amples.— Certificate  of  Baptism. — Singular  Exposure. — Public  Library. — Elegance 
and  Liberality,  of  the  Establishment. — Catholics  not  Enemies  to  Knowledge. — 
Lancastrian  Schools. — English  and  Portuguese  Mode  of  Writing. — French  taught 
with  Portuguese,  but  not  English.— Remnant  of  former  Ignorance. 


In  the  year  1820,  on  the  9th  of  November,  a decree  was 
passed,  allotting  the  sum  of  seven  millions  of  reis  to  the 
formation  of  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  in  Brazil  ; and  in 
the  month  of  March,  1824,  it  was  founded  at  Rio,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  emperor,  who  was  dignified  with  a new 

* This  is  supposed  to  illustrate  and  explain  the  inf  ami  digito  of  Pers. 
Sat.  II.  1.  22.  J 


232 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


title,  as  u Fundador  e Protector  da  Imperial  Academia  das 
Bellas  Artes.”  To  form  this  Academy,  several  professors 
in  the  different  departments  of  history  and  landscape  paint- 
ing, sculpture,  architecture,  engraving,  medal  cutting,  and 
mechanics,  were  invited  from  France,  who  were  to  instruct 
a number  of  pupils,  and  give  lectures  in  their  several  de- 
partments at  different  hours  of  the  day.  For  this  purpose 
a new  building  was  erected  in  the  Rua  travessa  da  Moeda, 
close  by  the  Mint,  which  is  not  yet  finished.  The  facade 
presents  a pediment  with  two  long  wings,  of  a mean  design, 
not  very  creditable  to  the  professor  of  the  architectural  de- 
partment ; and  it  is  in  a narrow  street,  with  a foundry  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  way.  It  moreover  has  an  inscrip- 
tion over  the  door  in  not  very  classical  Latin,  academia 
imp.  bellarum  artium.  So  that  nothing  of  the  exterior 
does  credit  to  the  elegance  and  taste  naturally  expected, 
where  the  projectors  were  professors  of  the  fine  arts. 

When  I visited  it,  the  interior  was  not  finished,  and  I 
saw  but  one  room,  round  which  were  several  specimens  of 
the  professors’  and  pupils’  talents.  One  was  a very  large 
picture  by  De  Bret,  the  professor  of  historical  painting.  It 
represented  the  Coronation  of  the  Emperor  in  the  Imperial 
Chapel,  with  all  the  distinguished  characters  who  assisted 
at  it,  nearly  as  large  as  life,  and  said  to  be  accurate  por- 
traits. The  Emperor  is  sitting  on  his  throne,  in  his  green 
robes,  holding  in  his  hand  a staff  surmounted  by  a griffin. 
Opposite  to  him,  in  the  gallery,  is  the  Empress,  with  the 
little  Queen  of  Portugal,  both,  I was  told,  good  likenesses. 
Before  him  is  the  present  Minister  of  Justice  taking  the 
constitutional  oath  on  a prayer-book  opened  at  the  canon  of 
the  mass,  and  beside  is  the  Bishop  of  Rio,  with  his  mitre 
and  spectacles,  and  several  other  distinguished  persons, 
who  were  easily  recognized  by  their  resemblance. 

This  large  portraiture,  the  first  of  the  kind,  I believe,  that 
ever  was  executed  in  Brazil,  is  more  valuable  for  the  like- 
nesses than  any  other  quality.  It  was  intended  for  the 
grand  saloon  of  the  palace  of  Rio  ; but  while  it  was  hanging 
in  the  Academy,  waiting  for  a frame,  it  fell  to  the  ground 
from  the  wall  where  it  was  suspended,  when,  by  the  con- 
cussion, the  canvass  burst  in  several  places,  and  totally 
destroyed  the  picture.  This  is,  as  I mentioned  before, 
generally  believed  not  to  have  been  accidental,  but  the 
wilful  malice  of  some  democrat,  who  wished  to  destroy  such 
a monument  of  Brazilian  monarchy,  and  cut  the  cord. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


233 


This  institution  is  open  to  every  person  who  wishes  to  be 
instructed  in  the  fine  arts.  No  other  introduction  is  neces- 
sary, than  for  a pupil  to  present  himself  at  the  door  in  a 
long  coat,  and  he  is  at  once  admitted.  A distinction  is  al- 
ways made  between  persons  wearing  coats  and  jackets,  as 
the  latter  are  always  considered  in  the  class  of  servants,  and 
excluded  even  from  the  public  gardens. 

There  are  but  seven  pupils  at  the  Academy,  one  of  whom 
I met  at  the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of  Rio,  who  is  his  patron. 
I expressed  to  the  bishop  a wish  to  take  with  me  to  Europe 
some  specimen  of  the  progress  of  the  arts  in  Brazil  ; and 
the  next  morning  his  protege  called  on  me  with  a large 
painting  in  a fine  gilt  frame.  It  was  his  first  effort  at  the 
Academy,  and  gained  a prize.  It  is  an  excellent  attempt, 
and  promises  well  for  the  infant  arts  in  the  country.  The 
annual  sum  allotted  for  the  support  of  this  institution  is 
6,980  milreis. 

Connected  with  this  department,  may  be  considered  the 
National  Museum.  It  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  Campo 
d’Acclamacao,  and  nearly  opposite  the  Senate-house,  and 
its  erection  was  one  of  the  last  good  acts,  for  which  the 
people  are  indebted  to  Dom  John  before  he  left  the  country. 
It  is  a long  edifice,  with  a pediment  and  portico  in  the  old 
Portuguese  fashion.  In  front  is  a gilt  globe  and  crown,  and 
under  them  the  following  inscription  on  a tablet  : 

IOHANNES  VI 
REX  FIDELISSIMVS 
ARTIVM  AMANTISSIMVS 
A FVNDAMENTIS  EREXIT 
ANNO  MDCCCXXI 

It  is  open  every  Thursday  to  the  public,  from  ten  till 
three . The  hall  below  is  a kind  of  guard-house  for  soldiers, 
and  the  museum  occupies  the  rooms  above,  and  consists  of 
a suite  of  apartments  leading  one  into  the  other.  They 
contain  the  usual  objects  found  in  such  a collection, — birds, 
beasts,  fishes,  shells,  and  minerals,  of  each  of  which  there 
are  as  yet  but  scanty  specimens,  in  their  respective  depart- 
ments. The  birds  are  well  preserved,  but  the  greatest 
part  of  them  are  lying  on  their  sides  on  shelves,  not  yet  set 
up.  Among  them  I was  shown,  as  curiosities,  a swan  and 
a robin  red-breast.  The  minerals  are  better  arranged,  and 
20* 


234 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  entomological  families  contain  many  beautiful  specimens 
of  butterflies.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  Spix  and 
Von  Martius,  who  have  filled  such  magnificent  museums  at 
Vienna  and  Munich  with  the  spoils  of  Brazil,  should  not 
have  been  employed,  in  the  first  instance,  to.  fill  and  arrange 
that  of  the  country  from  whence  they  took  them. 

Besides  these  imperfect  departments  of  natural  history, 
there  are  a few  specimens  of  Egyptian  mummies  and  other 
antiquities  from  the  old  world,  and  two  or  three  from  the 
new.  These  are  heads  taken  from  some  Indian  catacombs, 
I was  informed.  They  are  preserved  like  mummies,  and 
tattooed  in  a very  curious  manner.  With  them  were  dresses, 
weapons,  and  other  Indian  remains,  which  form  the  nucleus 
of  an  exceedingly  interesting  national  department,  mark- 
ing the  existence  of  a race  that  soon  “ will  go  hence  and  be 
no  more  seen.” 

As  works  of  art,  there  stood  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the 
rooms,  two  glass  cases  divided  into  several  chambers.  In 
each  of  these  was  the  process  of  some  trade  or  manufacture 
represented,  with  all  the  implements  in  miniature  accurately 
made.  This  juvenile  performance  was  exactly  like  the  rep- 
resentations in  the  Book  of  Trades  and  Arts,  published  in 
England  for  the  use  of  children,  and  seemed  very  charac- 
teristic of  an  infant  country,  yet  in  the  childhood  of  know- 
ledge. This  little  mechanic’s  show-box  seemed  to  excite 
the  attention  of  the  visitors  more  than  anything  else. 

The  company  who  entered,  were  of  the  humble  ranks  in 
life,  and  many  of  them  common  soldiers.  They  seemed 
greatly  amused  and  instructed  by  the  various  objects,  which 
were  quite  new  to  them.  Indeed  the  institution  seems  a 
valuable  thing  for  the  country  in  which  it  is  established.  It 
is  likely  to  excite  a taste  and  feeling  for  objects  of  nature 
and  art,  and  create  a love  for  science  in  the  people  who  y isit 
it.  What  a vast  field  of  natural  history  does  the  fecundity 
of  nature  present  in  the  country  itself,  and  what  a splendid 
monument  of  this  department  alone  might,  and  perhaps  will, 
be  raised  here,  when  native  men  of  science  are  sufficiently 
informed  to  undertake  it  ! The  sum  paid  for  the  annual 
support  of  the  museum  is  4,512  milreis. 

The  first  dawn  of  literature  in  Brazil  may  be  dated  from 
the  king’s  decree  of  1808,  by  which  it  was  permitted  to  print 
“ Todas  e qualquers  obras  it  being  expedient,  as  the  an- 
nalist says,  that  “ the  brilliant  face  of  the  king  should  vivify 
the  country  on  which  it  shone,  by  enlightening  every  sub- 
ject of  literature.” 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


235 


In  consequence  of  this  permission,  sundry  writers  ap- 
peared in  Brazil,  and  their  works  were  printed  at  Rio  ; but 
among  these  the  most  varied  and  voluminous,  is  Jose  da 
Silva  Lisboa  Visconde  Cayru.  He  took  for  his  motto,  a If 
we  would  perpetuate  our  fame  or  reputation,  we  must  do 
things  worth  writing,  or  write  things  worth  reading  ; ” and 
he  still  continues,  at  a very  advanced  period  of  life,  to  follow 
the  latter  part  of  his  maxim.  In  1815,  he  published  the 
Life  of  “ Lord  Wellington,”  2 vols.  4to  ; in  1818,  the 
ee  Benefits  conferred  on  Brazil  by  Dom  Joao  VI.”  2 vols. 
8vo  ; in  1819,  “ Studies  for  the  Common  Good,”  4to  ; and 
in  1827,  the  “Brazilian  School,  or  Useful  Instruction,”  2 
vols.  8vo. — Jose  d’Alvarenza  has  published  “ Memoirs  of 
the  Expedition  against  the  Chinese  Pirates  of  Macao,”  1809 
and  1810.  In  1826,  the  “ Fifth  Year  of  Independence  ;” 
in  1828,  the  “ Seventh  Year  oflndependence  ;”  and  “ Sta- 
teira  and  Zoroastres,”  a Novel.  In  1827,  Jose  Victoria 
dos  Sanctos  published  a “ New  Theory  of  the  Universe,” 
in  4to,  taking  for  his  motto  this  quotation  from  Locke, 
“ Philosophy  teaches  us  to  seek  nature,  in  the  knowledge 
of  her  laws,  for  the  cause  of  events.  When  this  knowledge 
shall  become  universal,  man  will  relinquish  his  attachment 
to  superstitious  and  vindictive  theology.  ” “A  Compendium 
of  Science,”  with  plates,  on  the  subject  of  arts  and  sciences, 
was  offered  to  the  famous  and  heroic  Brazilian  nation,  by  a 
citizen;  and  “ Elements  of  Music,”  by  Ant.  Luis  Fagundes. 
But  the  most  important  works  are,  a “ Chorographia  Bra- 
zilica,”  containing  a history  and  statistical  details  of  every 
province,  published  in  1817,  by  Padre  Manoel  de  Cazal,  in 
2 vols.  4to,  and  dedicated  to  the  king,  who  granted  the  au- 
thor a copyright  in  it  for  fourteen  years.  It  is  a curious 
and  valuable  work,  detailing  important  and  accurate  infor- 
mation on  the  parts  of  this  vast  country,  and  does  credit  to 
the  industry  and  research  of  the  author ; but  it  wants  great- 
ly the  elucidation  of  maps,  which,  I am  told,  will  accompany 
a new  edition  which  is  now  preparing.*  Next  in  interest 


* Geography  is  a science  in  which  the  Brazilians  seem  most  de- 
ficient. 1 never  saw  in  any  house  a map  even  of  their  own  country, 
much  less  of  any  other  ; and  sometimes  strange  mistakes  arise.  When 
it  was  announced,  in  the  Russian  campaign,  that  the  plague  was  at 
Bucharest,  a circular  was  sent  round,  announcing,  that  all  vessels 
from  that  port,  were  to  perform  quarantine,  before  landing  passengers 
or  cargo  in  any  part  of  Brazil.  It  was  explained  that  Bucharest  was 
not  a port,  and  a second  circular  was  issued,  correcting  the  first,  by 
stating,  that  any  vessel  coming  from  any  port  in  the  Mediterranean , 
must  perform  quarantine,  thereby  including  Spain,  France,  and  Italy  ! 


236 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


and  importance,  is  the  u Ecclesiastic  History  of  Brazil,’7 
by  Pizarro,  in  9 or  10  vols.  folio,  published  a few  years  since. 
The  last  I shall  mention  is  the  “ Flora  Fluminensis,”  under 
the  superintendence  of  Ant.  d’Arrabida,  Bishop  of  Anamu- 
ria,  dedicated  to  the  emperor  : it  is  a fine  work,  in  folio, 
with  plates,  executed  at  Paris,  some  of  which  I got  speci- 
mens of,  but  the  work  is  not  yet  finished.  v 

These  are  a few  only  of  the  books  published  at  Rio  since 
printing  was  permitted,  which  I have  myself  read,  and  of 
some  of  them  I have  copies.  It  is  sufficient  to  show  you, 
that  the  Brazilians  are  an  improving  people,  and  though 
their  literary  progress  is  not  great,  it  is,  I imagine,  much 
more  so  than  in  any  other  new  state  in  South  America. 

In  periodicals,  gazettes,  and  newspapers,  they  are  still 
more  advanced.  In  the  year  1828,  there  were  133  peri- 
odical papers  printed  in  the  whole  Peninsula,  of  which  twen- 
tyfive  were  published  in  Brazil  ; viz.  fifteen  at  Rio,  three 
at  Bahia,  and  the  rest  at  Pernambuco,  St.  Paul’s,  St.  Joao 
d’el  Rey,  and  Yilla  Rica.  Those  at  Rio  were,  u Imperio 
do  Brazil,”  u Diario  do  Rio  Janeiro,”  and  u Journal  do 
Commercio,”  daily  ; “ Analista,”  u Aurora  Fluminene,” 
u Astrea,”  “ Courier  du  Brezil  ” (French),  three  times  a 
week;  “ Rio  Herald”  (English),  once  a week;  “ Mala- 
gueta,”  u Diario  dos  Deputados,”  u D.  do  Senado,”  u Des- 
pertador  Constitutional, ” “ Censor  Brazilico,”  occasion- 
ally ; u Espelho  Diamantino,”  monthly  ; u Propagador,” 
or  Annals  of  Medicine,  Zoology,  and  Botany,  yearly. 

Of  these,  the  u Aurora”  is  the  most  decided  and  liberal. 
The  columns  rarely  admit  foreign  news,  and  are  entirely  de- 
voted to  keeping  alive  the  constitutional  spirit.  u It  is  the 
constitution,”  it  says,  “ full  and  reduced  to  practice,  which 
forms,  and  is  to  form,  the  infallible  rule  of  our  social  life. 
It  is  for  this  we  live,  for  this  we  have  fought,  and  for  this 
we  will  fight  forever.”  The  u Diario  do  Rio  Janeiro”  is 
printed  on  wretched  paper,  and  is  scarcely  legible  ; it  con- 
sists almost  entirely  of  editals  and  decrees,  with  from  sixty 
to  seventy  advertisements. 

The  u Analista”  is  supposed  to  be  the  organ  of  govern- 
ment. It  has  succeeded  the  u Gazeta,”  which  two  or  three 
years  ago  perfomed  the  same  functions.  It  was  distinguish- 
ed for  its  scurrility  and  vulgarity,  and  many  articles  were 
attributed  to  high  rank,  which  people  said  bore  internal  ev- 
idence of  their  authors.  It  was  succeeded  by  the  u Cen- 
sor,” better  and  more  moderately  conducted,  it  is  said,  by 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


237 


the  present  minister  of  the  interior.  It  merged,  however, 
into  the  u Analista,”  which  now  affects  to  be  polished  and 
classical,  but  is  excessively  stupid. 

Of  a style  and  character  directly  opposite  to  the  former, 
is  the  u Malagueta,”  conducted  by  an  ecclesiastic  of  the 
name  of  May.  Malagueta  is  the  native  name  for  a small 
species  of  capsicum,  the  most  biting  and  pungent  of  all 
peppers,  as  this  is  of  all  periodicals  ; it  is  distinguished  for 
its  bitter  personalities.  When  it  first  appeared,  it  attracted 
a great  deal  of  notice,  as  well  for  the  talent  it  displayed  as 
for  the  persons  it  attacked.  The  family  of  Andrada,  when 
in  the  zenith  of  their  favor  and  power,  were  the  objects 
of  its  particular  virulence,  and  just  at  the  time  an  attempt 
was  made  to  assassinate  the  editor.  He  was  wounded 
and  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life,  and  he  accused  not  only 
them,  but  the  emperor,  as  the  assassins.  In  proof  of  this 
he  showed  a handkerchief  that  one  of  them  had  dropped, 
the  owner  of  which  was  recognized  by  its  mark.  The  ac- 
cused of  course  denied  the  fact  in  the  most  vehement  man- 
ner, and  even  visited  him  in  person,  when  he  was  confined 
with  his  wounds.  Nothing,  however,  could  remove  his 
suspicious,  wMcITTam  told  he  perseveres  in  to  this  day. 
He  is  generally  supposed  to  be  a little  deranged.  Between 
the  cc  Imperio  do  Brazil,*’  which  is  the  organ  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  published  at  the  Imperial  printing-office,  and  the 
u Malagueta,”  there  is  a constant  war  ; and  as  it  is  part  of 
the  freedom  of  the  press  here,  to  attack  the  editor  by  name 
and  not  his  paper,  editors  are  every  day  brought  forward  in 
their  proper  persons.  In  a number  of  the  u Imperio  ” I saw 
the  following  passage  : — “ In  No.  86  of  the  Malagueta, 
which  has  fallen  into  our  hands,  we  observe  the  gratification 
with  which  Senhor  May  applies  to  us  the  epithet  tapel ; but 
not  being  able  to  find  the  word  in  any  Portuguese  dictiona- 
ry, and  being  ignorant  of  the  jargon  which  he  speaks,  we 
beg  of  him  to  explain  his  meaning,  that  we  may  answer 
him  ; although  experience  has  convinced  us,  that  the  Sen- 
hor is  one  of  those  persons,  who  never  blush  when  convict- 
ed of  a lie.” 

The  u Courier  du  Brezil  ” is  written  in  French,  and  pub- 
lished on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays.  It  gives  the  fairest 
and  almost  the  only  statement  of  things  passing  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  the  news  of  other  countries  much  more  copiously 
than  all  the  rest  ; but  it  is  a ministerial  paper,  and  for  that 
reason  bitterJy  denounced.  The  “ Malagueta  ” charges  it 


238 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


with  being  an  emissary  of  the  French  government,  sent  to 
invade  the  country  beforehand.  The  “Farol  Paulista,”  a 
provincial  paper,  thinks  it  a crime  not  to  be  forgiven,  that 
its  editor  is  a Frenchman  ; and  the  “ Aurora  ” denounces  it 
to  the  police.  These  opinions  are  evidences  of  the  exceed- 
ing jealousy  of  the  people,  and  their  suspicions  of  all  stran- 
gers, as  enemies  to  their  independence  and  liberty. 

The  “ Journal  do  Commercio,”  like  the  aDiario,”  is 
printed  on  wretched  paper,  and  the  typography  so  bad  that 
it  is  hardly  legible,  though  it  is  in  more  demand  than  any 
other.  It  is  almost  entirely  filled  with  editals  and  advertise- 
ments ; every  publication  containing  from  80  to  100.  Un- 
der the  head  of  “ Noticias  Particulars, ” one  person  is  in- 
formed, that  if  he  does  not  bring  back  the  books  he  borrow- 
ed, his  name  will  be  made  public  ; another,  that  a particu- 
lar person  wants  to  speak  to  him,  and  warning  him  at  his 
peril  not  to  disappoint  ; a third,  that  his  stagnant  water  is 
very  offensive,  and  if  he  does  not  throw  it  out,  a neighbor 
will  come  and  spill  it  in  his  parlor.  Some  curious  notices 
also  appear  from  ladies: — u The  senhor,  who  was  in  the 
house  of  Luiza  da  CongeUao,  in  the  street  of  Livradio,  No. 
1,  and  who  requested  from  the  senhora  some  paper  tu  write 
on  ; and  having  finished  his  letter,  took  from  her  drawer 
four  milreis  in  gold,  a bank  note  for  eight  milreis,  a pair  of 
silk  stockings,  is  requested  to  restore  the  articles,  if  he  does 
not  wish  to  see  his  name  in  public.  The  same  favor  is  re- 
quested from  the  gentleman  who  carried  away  her  fan,  other- 
wise his  name  shall  also  appear.” 

Distributed  frequently  with  the  papers,  is  a loose  sheet, 
called  u Correspondence  : ” — it  consists  of  a letter  to  the 
editor,  attacking  some  individuals  with  whom  the  writer  has 
had  a dispute,  and  it  generally  contains  the  most  extraordi- 
nary libels  that  ever  were  published.  The  editor  of  the  pa- 
per, who  prints  and  circulates  the  libel,  incurs  no  responsi- 
bility, provided  he  does  not  refuse  to  print  and  circulate  a 
libellous  answer.  I send  you  one  or  two  specimens,  which 
came  to  me  folded  up  in  my  newspapers. 

u Retribution. — .God  being  pleased  to  call  from  this  world 
to  a better,  the  merchant  Joao  Pereira  Borba,  and  he  being 
a man  of  correct  life,  wished  to  prove  before  his  death,  by 
an  authentic  testimony,  that  he  was  an  honest  man,  whose 
ashes  should  be  respected  ; and  to  that  end  he  inserted  the 
following  clause  in  his  will  : — -c  I declare  that  I always  have 
been  a neighbor  of  the  merchant  Jose  Loureno  Dios,  a na- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


239 


live  of  S.  Joao  d’El  Rey,  with  whom  I lived  in  close  friend- 
ship ; and  for  that  reason,  I strictly  enjoin  my  heir  not  to  de- 
mand from  him  a large  debt,  which  he  contracted  at  my 
store,  by  his  constant  and  daily  visits  to  the  bung  of  a cask 
of  Catalonian  wine  ; for  it  would  be  a burden  to  my  con- 
science, if  what  he  owes  me  was  demanded,  since  it  was  the 
vicinity  of  my  store  to  the  said  merchant’s  house,  that  was 
the  real  and  proximate  cause  of  his  disgracing  himself  every 
day,  by  constant  intoxication,  by  which  he  has  directly  and 
indirectly  offended  all  his  countrymen.  It  would,  therefore, 
be  manifest  injustice  to  receive  money  for  that,  which  ren- 
ders the  merchant  this  day  so  contemptible  in  the  eyes  of 
all  fellow-citizens.’ 

u One  of  the  Offended.” 

“Senhor  Editor  of  the  Astrea,  I sign  this  with  a cross, 
because  I can  neither  read  nor  write.  I was  living  peace- 
ably in  the  district  of  the  city  of  Rezende,  where  one  Simao 
de  Roza  wished  to  get  possession  of  my  farm  ; and  when 
I would  not  surrender  it,  he  proceeded  to  denounce  me  with 
false  accusations,  by  persons  he  had  under  his  thumb. 
There  is  a Padre  Marriano  Joze  de  Roza,  a brother  of  the 
same  Simao,  who  resembles  him  in  every  respect.  Yes  ; 
it  was  this  padre,  or  rather  this  monster,  that  in  his  own 
name  denounced  me,  saying,  that  I had  uttered  calumnies 
against  his  Imperial  Majesty,  on  which  I was  taken  up,  and 
sent  to  this  city  under  a guard.”  After  detailing  a number 
of  false  accusations  uttered  by  this  padre  against  individuals, 
and  enumerating  several  whom  he  attacked  in  order  to  as- 
sassinate ; as,  though  a minister  of  the  gospel,  he  goes  about 
with  arms  in  his  hands,  he  continues,  “ but  I will  not  detail 
the  lewdness  of  this  monster,  how  many  unmarried  woman  he 
lived  with,  nor  his  amour  with  the  wife  of  Francisco  de 
Sylva,  his  comrade,  Sic.  ; or  how  he  sued  at  law  the  same 
patient  Francisco,  under  the  pretext  of  his  having  burned 
eleven  feet  of  a coffee  plantation.  The  monster  also  invited 
to  his  house  one  Anna  Ferreira,  and  gave  her  a portion  of 
land  near  himself,  where  she  had  the  misfortune  to  bring  her 
daughter,  a child  of  eleven  or  twelve  years  old,”  Sic.  After 
detailing  a number  of  similar  things,  and  in  the  coarsest  lan- 
guage, and  pointing  out,  in  words  not  fit  to  be  translated, 
how  he  ought  to  be  used,  as  he  himself  had  used  an  un- 
fortunate mulatto,  whom  he  suspected  of  stealing  his  hens, 
he  concludes — “ But  I cannot  tell  you,  in  one  letter,  all  the 


240 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


atrocities  perpetrated  by  a priest,  who  says  he  is  a minister 
of  God  ; but  who,  saving  your  presence,  Sir,  is  really  a 
minister  of  the  devil. 

u Joaquim  -f  Joze.” 

These  libels  constitute  a considerable  portion  of  the  lit- 
erary entertainment  of  Rio.  In  passing  through  the  streets 
in  the  morning,  after  the  issue  of  the  newspapers,  I constant- 
ly saw  groups  of  neighbors  assembled  in  some  shop,  and  one 
of  them  sitting  on  the  counter,  reading  a sheet  of  this  Cor- 
respondencia  to  the  rest.  It  often  happens,  that  the  man 
attacked  is  one  of  the  party,  who  never  thinks  of  any  other 
redress,  than  a reply  of  similar  scurrility. 

This  correspondence  displays,  sometimes,  extraordinary 
traits  of  national  feeling  on  some  points,  and  the  estimation 
in  which  different  objects  are  held.  By  the  constitutional 
code,  a freed  man  cannot  be  an  elector  ; and  to  remove  the 
imputation,  and  to  entitle  them  to  the  elective  franchise, 
which  the  Brazilians  prize  very  high,  they  sometimes  pro- 
duce very  extraordinary  certificates.  A Colonel  Joaquim 
Francisco  das  Chagas  Catete,  was  a candidate  in  his  parish 
for  that  honor  ; and  a Manoel  de  Sousa  Silva,  a chandler, 
objected  to  him  that  he  was  a freed  man.  A long  scurrilous 
correspondence  ensued,  which  amused  the  counters  of  Rio 
for  several  mornings  ; and  at  length  it  ended  in  the  Colonel 
producing  a certificate  of  his  baptism. — “ I certify,  that  in 
the  year  1780,  I baptized  and  placed  the  holy  oil  on  the 
child,  Joaquim,  the  illegitimate  son  of  Francisca  das  Cha- 
gas, a free  mulatto  woman  unmarried,  herself  illegitimate, 
and  baptized  in  the  parish  of  S.  Joao,  of  an  unknown  father, 
and  then  a servant  in  the  house  of  the  Rev.  Joaquim  Gon- 
salves de  Figueiredo,  living  in  the  Bairro  da  Caturra,  of 
this  parish,  &c. 

u Alberto  Caetano  Alves.” 

The  Colonel  concludes  this  triumphant  refutation  of  his 
enemies  by  this  declaration  : u I am  the  chief  of  my  family  ; 
I hold  the  high  rank  of  colonel  in  the  first  regiment  of  the 
line  ; and  I am  bound  by  the  ties  of  blood,  by  the  function 
of  my  high  employment,  and  by  the  honor  of  an  officer,  thus 
to  refute  the  calumnies  uttered  against  me.”  And  this  he 
does,  by  proving  that  he  was  the  natural  son  of  a mulatto 
servant  maid  ; herself  the  natural  daughter  of  an  unknown 
father.  In  Brazil,  where  so  many  in  high  station  are  them- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


241 


selves  the  founders  of  their  own  families,  respectable  de- 
scent is  but  little  regarded,  except  by  the  few  who  have  a 
claim  to  it.  But  I doubt  if  there  could  be  found,  amongst 
the  humblest  class  in  England,  a man  who  would  establish 
his  right  to  a vote,  by  such  an  exposure. 

There  are  two  public  libraries  ; one  at  the  convent  of  S. 
Bento,  and  the  other  the  imperial  library  in  the  Rua  De- 
traz  do  Carmo.  This  latter  consists  of  60,000  volumes,  in 
all  languages,  ancient  and  modern,  with  plates,  charts, 
maps,  and  manuscripts  ; but  it  is  particularly  distinguished 
for  its  collection  of  Bibles,  more  extensive,  perhaps,  than 
in  any  other  library  in  the  world  : they  fill  a whole  com- 
partment.* The  books  are  arranged  in  several  rooms,  par- 
ticularly in  two  grand  long  saloons  ; one  intended  exclusive- 
ly for  the  use  of  the  royal  family,  and  the  other  open  to  the 
.public,  who  have  free  access  to  all  the  books  in  every  part 
of  the  library. 

I passed  much  of  my  time  in  this  noble  establishment  ; 
and  I think  it  inferior  to  nothing  of  the  kind  I have  seen  in 
Europe,  either  in  extent  or  liberal  accommodation  ; though 
the  number  of  books  at  present  may  be  more  limited.  Ev- 
ery one  is  not  only  admitted,  without  question  or  inquiry, 
but  invited  to  enter  and  enlarge  their  minds.  The  approach 
is  by  a large  stone  staircase,  decorated  with  fine  paintings 
of  the  Vatican  ; and  the  reading  room  is  a spacious  arched 
saloon,  extending  from  side  to  side  of  the  building,  and  ven- 
tilated by  a breeze  or  current  always  passing  through  it, 
from  the  large  windows  at  the  extremities.  Here,  at  a long 
table  covered  with  green  cloth,  and  furnished  with  desks 
and  apparatus  for  writing,  as  at  the  British  Museum,  you 
take  your  seat,  and  several  librarians,  in  different  parts  of 
the  room,  are  prompt  in  their  attendance  to  provide  you  in 

* One  of  them  is  a copy  of  the  first  bible  ever  printed.  It  is  on 
vellum,  very  beautiful,  and  in  high  preservation.  It  has  the  following 
colophon  in  black  letter: — “ Pns  hoc  opusculu  artificiosa  adinvetione 
impr'mendi  ceu  caracterizandi  absq.  calami  exaratone  in  civitate  Mo- 
gunt : sic  effigiatu  ad  eusebia  Dei  industrie  per  Jobe:  Fust  cive  et 
Petru  Schaeffer  de  Gernfleym  clericu  dioc  : ejusdem  est  consummate 
Anno  dni  m.cccc.lxIi.  In  vigilia  assurnpcois  Virg.  Marie.”  “ This 
present  work,  by  a wonderful  invention  of  impressing  or  marking 
characters,  without  tracing  them  with  a pen,  thus  effected  in  the  city 
of  Mentz,  to  the  piety  of  God,  by  the  industry  of  John  Fust,  citizen, 
and  Peter  Schaeffer  of  Guernfleyim,  clerk,  of  the  same  diocese,  was 
completed  in  the  year  of  the  Lord  1462,  in  the  vigil  of  the  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin  Mary.’’ 

21 


242 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


a moment  with  every  book  you  call  for.  All  the  periodicals 
of  Rio  and  the  provinces  are  sent  every  morning  ; and  that, 
as  well  as  a growing  taste  for  reading,  attracts  a number  of 
natives,  of  all  colors,  to  this  place,  in  which  they  seem  to 
take  no  less  pleasure  than  pride.  It  is  open  every  day, 
except  holidays,  from  nine  in  the  morning  ; and  I know  no 
spot  where  it  is  possible  to  endure  the  meridian  heat  more 
agreeably  or  profitably  than  in  this  cool,  silent,  and  ele- 
gant retirement.  Is  it  not,  then,  most  unjust,  my  friend,  to 
accuse  the  Catholics  as  enemies  to  knowledge  ? Here  is 
a noble  and  public  literary  institution,  filled  with  books  on  all 
subjects,  founded  by  a rigid  Catholic  monarch,  and  super- 
intended and  conducted  by  Catholic  ecclesiastics,  on  a plan 
even  more  liberal,  and  less  exclusive,  than  any  similar  es- 
tablishment in  our  own  Protestant  country.  The  sum  of 
4,485  milreis  are  annually  allowed  for  its  support. 

There  are  two  Lancasterian  schools  now  established  at 
Rio,  supported  by  government,  and  it  is  the  intention  to 
open  nine  more  in  different  parishes,  and  compel  all  private 
schools  to  adopt  the  same  mode  of  teaching.  I visited  one 
of  them  near  the  Academy,  and  better  situated.  It  con- 
sisted of  a very  large  and  airy  hall,  capable  of  holding  300 
children,  and  has  been  opened  nearly  three  years.  About 
130  were  in  attendance  ; they  were  very  respectable  in 
appearance,  the  sons  of  shopkeepers  and  others  of  the  same 
rank,  and  were  of  all  colors,  white,  brown,  and  black.  They 
were  neatly  dressed,  and  very  orderly  in  their  behavior. 
The  master  sat  at  an  elevated  desk,  and  directed  their 
movements  by  a whistle.  When  the  class  was  called  up, 
the  monitor  let  down  from  the  wall  a semicircle  of  iron,  in- 
side which  he  stood,  and  the  children  formed  a crescent  out- 
side. They  were  instructed  in  reading,  writing,  and  ac- 
counts ; and  at  the  end  of  two  years,  a selection  was  made 
of  all  who  showed  any  particular  talent,  and  they  were 
passed  on  to  the  Academies.  The  education  was  entirely 
gratuitous,  and  all  were  indiscriminately  admitted,  except 
unfortunate  slaves.  The  form  of  writing  seemed  a particu- 
lar object  of  the  master’s  care.  In  the  old  Portuguese 
mode,  the  letters  were  nearly  upright,  being  only  twenty 
degrees  from  the  perpendicular.  The  English  letters,  in- 
clining to  thirtyfive  degrees,  were  now  adopted,  and  great 
pains  taken  to  make  it  universal.  All  the  children  seem  to 
have  made  considerable  progress  in  it,  which  the  master 
showed  me  with  some  exultation. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


243 


In  consequence  of  a decree  of  the  sessions  of  the  Cham- 
bers in  1827,  similar  schools  were  beginning  to  be  estab- 
lished in  the  Minas  Geraes,  just  as  we  arrived  at  Rio. 
The  difficully  was  to  proportion  the  salary  of  the  teachers, 
in  a country  where  population  was  so  dispersed,  and  the 
local  resources,  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  so  precarious. 
It  was  settled  to  be  according  to  the  number  of  scholars, 
and  the  consequent  labor  of  the  master  : 500  reis  for  each 
pupil  up  to  100,  and  so  in  proportion  up  to  300,  when  the 
master  received  1000  for  each,  but  the  stipend  was  not  to 
exceed  500  milreis,  which  was  the  maximum  allowed  by  law. 
All  the  expenses  are  defrayed  by  government  ; the  children 
pay  nothing. 

In  passing  through  the  town,  you  see  primary  schools  in 
every  street,  which  are  always  crowded  with  pupils,  cleanly 
and  respectably  dressed.  Over  the  door  is  generally  this 
inscription  : u Aula  das  primeiras  literas,  Grammatica, 
Arithmetica,  Portugueza  e lingua  Franceza,”  but  I have 
never  seen  an  announcement  that  English  was  taught. 

Besides  these  schools,  which  are  perfectly  free  to  all,  and 
where  no  money  is  received  from  any  pupil,  there  are  oth- 
ers at  the  houses  of  private  masters,  where  children  of  the 
higher  classes  are  instructed,  who  pay  for  their  education. 
One  of  them  is  an  English  boarding  school  in  the  Mata 
Cavallos. 

There  is  no  country,  perhaps,  where  education  is  more 
extensively  diffused  among  the  rising  generation,  than  in 
Brazil,  particularly  in  the  capital  ; but  there  yet  exists  a 
practice  which,  I am  told,  originated  in  the  ignorance  of 
former  times,  and  if  so,  it  is  a strong  proof  how  universal  it 
was.  When  a house  is  to  be  let  at  this  day,  it  is  notified  by 
nailing  or  pasting  on  the  door,  a sheet  of  blank  paper.  It 
was  formerly  considered  useless  to  write  or  print  particu- 
lars, as  the  persons  for  whose  information  they  might  be 
intended,  were  known  universally  to  be  unable  to  read. 
But  I have  also  seen  here  a sheet  of  blank  paper,  fastened 
to  the  legs  and  horns  of  horses  and  cattle  intended  for  sv.le  : 
this  is  also  the  practice  in  Portugal,  where,  a friend  informed 
me,  it  was  intended  as  a carte  blanche , furnishing  materials  for 
writing  down  the  terms  of  sale,  when  the  bargain  was  com- 


244 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


CHAP.  XX. 


Advantages  of  Rio  Harbor. — First  extraordinary  Exportation  of  the  English  Elan- 
kets,  Warming-Pans,  and  Skates. — Uses  to  which  they  were  applied. — Interesting 
Appearance  of  Custom-House  Q,uay. — Stamping. — Mode  ofincreasing  Officers’  Sal- 
aries.— Proper  and  spirited  ConductofFrench  Consul-General. — Imports. — Exports. 
— Commercial  Treaties. — Number  of  foreign  Vessels  in  the  Harbor  present  a fine 
Spectacle. — Money  and  Accounts. — Copper  the  only  metallic  Circulation. — Mint. 
— Diamonds  for  Sale. — Neglect  of  Precaution. 

The  vast  country  of  Brazil,  abounding  with  produce  of- 
various  kinds,  and  an  almost  interminable  capability  of  pro- 
ducing more,  seems  likely  in  time  to  exceed  all  others  in 
commercial  pursuits,  and  a considerable  part  of  the  com- 
merce of  the  world  to  centre  in  the  harbor  of  Rio  de  Ja- 
neiro. To  this  its  local  advantages  give  it  a fair  claim. 
The  Sugar-loaf  is  such  a perfect  direction,  that  there  is  no 
possibility  of  mistaking  its.  entrance.  The  passage  is  so 
bold,  broad,  and  deep,  that  there  is  no  danger  of  running 
ashore,  and  there  is  no  necessity  for  a pilot  to  conduct 
strange  ships  ; in  fact,  it  is  almost  the  only  harbor  in  the 
world,  where  pilots  are  not  established,  because  it  is  almost 
the  only  one  where  they  are  not  wanted.  The  sea  and 
land  breezes  are  so  regular,  strong,  and  steady,  that  a ship 
may  always  count,  with  nearly  a certainty,  that  she  can  sail 
in  in  the  morning  with  one,  and  sail  out  in  the  evening  with 
the  other.  The  harbor  on  the  inside  is  so  extensive,  that 
all  the  ships  in  England  could  probably  anchor  there,  with- 
out impeding  one  another  ; and  the  anchorage  is  so  good, 
that  no  ship  ever  cuts  her  cable  or  loses  her  station.  The 
bay  is  so  land-locked,  and  so  protected  from  gales  of  wind 
on  all  sides,  that  it  is  perfectly  secure,  even  for  boats,  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year.  If  to  this  be  added  the  exceeding  salu- 
brity of  the  climate,  that  crews  are  never  affected  with  those 
distempers  that  sweep  them  off  in  other  tropical  harbors  ; 
the  great  abundance  of  articles  of  the  first  necessity,  wood, 
water,  and  provisions  in  profusion,  and  an  interminable  ca- 
pability of  producing  more,  according  to  the  demand  ; and 
its  geographical  position,  projected  into  the  ocean,  midway 
on  the  shores  of  a great  continent,  and  in  the  most  conveni- 
ent spot  for  ships,  passing  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific, 
it  should  seem  as  if  nature  had  intended  it  as  the  great  re- 
ceptacle of  commerce  in  the  new  world,  by  conferring  on  it 
all  the  local  advantages  which  a harbor  can  possess. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


245 


When  therefore  the  country  was  opened  to  the  enterprise 
of  foreigners,  it  is  not  at  all  surprising  that  the  city  of  Rio 
and  its  commerce,  should  have  increased  with  an  unexam- 
pled rapidity.  Such  was  the  avidity  of  speculation  in  Eng- 
land, that  everything  was  sent  to  Brazil,  without  the  small- 
est regard  to  its  fitness  or  adaptation,  to  the  climate  or 
wants  of  the  people,  who  were  to  purchase  them.  The 
shops  and  ware-rooms  of  Fleet-street  and  Cheapside  were 
ransacked  and  swept  ; and  the  consideration  was  not  what 
should  be  sent,  but  how  soon  could  it  arrive.  In  this  way, 
when  the  multitude  of  cases  were  opened  at  the  Custom- 
house, I have  been  told,  the  Brazilians  could  not  contain 
their  astonishment  and  mirth,  at  the  incongruous  things 
they  saw  displayed  before  them : implements  useful  only  to 
Canadians  and  Greenlanders,  and  comforts  and  conveni- 
ences fit  only  for  polar  latitudes,  were  cased  up  and  sent  in 
abundance  to  regions  between  the  tropics. 

Among  this  ingenious  selection,  was  a large  supply  of 
warm  blankets,  warming-pans  to  heat  them,  and,  to  complete 
the  climax  of  absurdity,  skates  to  enable  the  Brazilians  to 
enjoy  wholesome  exercise  on  the  ice,  in  a region  where  a 
particle  of  frost  or  a flake  of  snow  was  never  seen.  How- 
ever ridiculous  and  wasteful  this  may  seem,  these  incon- 
gruous articles  were  not  lost  in  a new  country,  where  ne- 
cessity and  ingenuity  could  apply  things  to  a use,  for  which 
they  were  never  intended  by  the  sage  exporters.  The  peo- 
ple did  not  suffocate  themselves  with  woollen  coverlets, 
where  they  sometimes  found  a cotton  sheet  too  heavy  and 
warm  ; they  did  not  lay  the  blankets,  therefore,  on  their 
own  beds,  but  in  the  beds  of  their  auriferous  rivers  and 
lavras,  or  gold  washings.  Here  the  long  elastic  wool  en- 
tangled and  intercepted  the  grains  of  gold  that  came  down, 
till  they  became  saturated,  and  so  literally  converted  the 
blanket  into  a Golden  Fleece.  They  had  formerly  used 
hides  with  the  hair  on,  for  the  same  purpose,  and  when  the 
supply  of  blankets  was  exhausted,  they  returned  to  hides 
again.  In  the  same  way  they  applied  the  warming-pans  to 
the  uses  of  their  engenhos,  or  sugar-houses  : they  knocked 
off  the  lids,  and  the  bottoms  made  excellent  skimmers,  to 
collect  the  scum  on  the  surface  of  the  boiling  sugar.  Even 
the  apparently  hopeless  and  inconvertible  skate,  was  turned 
to  a useful  purpose.  Then,  as  well  as  now,  there  was  no- 
thing in  the  country  so  scarce  as  wrought  iron,  for  shoeing 
mules  and  horses  ; and  though  ferradors  or  smiths,  are  to 


246 


. NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL* 


be  met  at  every  rancho,  ferraduras,  or  shoes,  are  seldom  to 
be  had.  When  the  people,  therefore,  found  they  could  not 
use  these  contrivances  on  their  own,  they  applied  them  to 
their  horses’  feet  ; and  many  an  animal  has  actually  tra- 
velled on  English  skates  from  Rio  to  Villa  Rica.  Such  of 
them  as  were  of  well-tempered  steel,  were  hammered  into 
facas,  or  knives  ; and  a gentleman  told  me,  he  found  the 
iron  of  a skate  in  its  original  shape,  forming  the  latch  of  a 
door  in  a village  in  the  interior. 

I frequently  went  down  to  the  custom-house  to  see  these 
importations,  but  the  season  of  skates  and  warming-pans 
was  past.  I saw,  however,  such  immense  quantities  of 
other  goods,  that  it  seemed  as  if  Sheffield  and  Manchester 
were  employed  in  supplying  Rio  alone  ; and  this  you  will 
readily  conceive  when  I inform  you,  that  the  imports  for 
the  year  1828  amounted  to  more  than  three  millions  sterling, 
of  which  2,200,000/.  was  from  England  alone  in  manufac- 
tured-goods.  The  bustle  and  activity  of  the  place,  give  a 
high  idea  of  the  commerce  of  Rio.  A multitude-o  f negroes 
are  constantly  employed,  who  labor  without  intermission 
the  whole  day,  in  removing  packages  of  different  kinds. 
They  are  generally  lying  open,  either  to  be,  or  after  having 
been  examined  ; and  it  presents  really  a curious  and  inte- 
resting spectacle  to  pass  along  the  courts  and  ware-rooms,, 
through  manufactures  of  every  kind,  and  from  all  parts  of 
the  globe  ; but  I particularly  observed  those  from  England, 
and  I had  the  curiosity  to  note  down  some  of  the  articles. 
There  were  bales  and  boxes  on  all  sides  lying  open,  filled- 
with  shawls,  handkerchiefs,  caps,  cottons,  ginghams,  silks, 
boots,  shoes,  stockings,  shirts,  gloves,  hats,  dressing-boxes, 
looking-glasses,  knives,  hammers,  hatchets,  pins,  needles, 
trowels,  muskets,  pictures,  pianofortes,  barometers,  drink- 
• ing-glasses,  mugs,  jugs  and  decanters,  with  innumerable 
other  articles  of  apparel  or  implements  of  handicraft  or  sci- 
ence, covering  a space  of  an  acre  or  two  of  ground,  just 
arrived  from  the  old,  and  about  to  be  circulated  and  scatter- 
ed over  the  mountains  and  forests  of  the  new  world. 

Having  waded  through  these,  I mounted  up  stairs,  and  I 
saw  a multitude  of  persons  hard  at  work,  as  if  it  had  been 
a large  factory.  These  were  the  stampers  : — every  article, 
even  to  a single  pair  of  gloves,  stockings,  or  shoes,  when 
the  duty  is  paid,  must  be  distinguished  by  this  stamp. 
Three  or  four  hundred  persons  were  engaged  in  this  work. 
One  ran  the  thread  through  the  corner  of  the  stockings  or 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


247 


shoes  ; another  looped  it  to  a little  perforated  pellet  of  lead  ; 
and  a third  pressed  it  flat  by  striking  on  it  a stamp  of  the 
imperial  arms.  Any  article,  however  minute,  that  has  not 
this  attached  to  it,  is  liable  to  be  seized  as  contraband  ; and 
such  is  the  timidity  or  integrity  of  the  Brazilians,  that 
no  inducement  of  profit  would  tempt  them  to  purchase  any- 
thing, whose  sale  is  not  so  sanctioned,  even  though  it  were 
offered  at  a fourth  part  of  its  real  value.  Hence  it  is  that 
smuggling  is  almost  unknown  in  the  country.  The  duty, 
ad  valorem,  is  so  low*,  and  the  depreciation  of  the  milrei  so 
great,  that  it  would  be  hardly  worth  while  ; or  even  if  it 
were,  the  people  are  so  scrupulous  they  would  not  pur- 
chase. The  process  of  stamping  every  article,  however,  is 
so  tedious  and  troublesome,  that  it  is  found  to  impede 
business  very  much,  and  the  fees  on  the  leaden  stamp  come 
to  twice  as  much  as  the  duty  on  the  goods,  in  the  cost  of 
pieces  of  tape  and  other  smaller  things  ; so  it  is  about  to  be 
discontinued,  and  some  other  mode  adopted. 

The  salaries  of  custom-house  people  are  so  very  small, 
that  they  are  increased  by  means  that  render  revenue  officers 
in  Brazil,  more  charged  with  corruption,  than  the  same 
class  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  Men,  who  are  known 
to  have  a stipend  of  only  two  or  three  patacs,  or  about  3s.  6d. 
a-day,  keep  company,  and  live  in  a style  which  requires  a 
large  revenue  to  support  ; and  there  are  many  ways  of  in- 
creasing their  salaries,  which  are  notoriously  practised 
every  day.  When  a vessel  arrives  full  of  wearing  apparel, 
a preventive  officer  is  put  on  deck,  to  watch  that  nothing 
is*  removed  ; several  of  his  friends  come  to  see  him  on 
board  in  shabby  clothes,  and  they  return  on  shore  in  a new 
dress,  having  left  the  old  in  the  case  behind  them.  Goods 
often  lie  for  some  time  in  the  stores  unclaimed  ; when  open- 
ed, they  are  found  to  contain  nothing  but  old  things  left  in 
exchange,  fit  only  for  burning.  Books  are  a common  subject 
of  depredation,  and  it  is  committed  so  ignorantly,  that  one 
or  two  volumes  only  are  abstracted,  and  the  set  spoiled.  A 
friend  told  me  he  had  some  lying  in  the  stores,  and  when  they 
were  at  length  discharged,  he  got  but  two  volumes  of  a 
work  on  chemistry  which  consisted  of  five, — and  so  on  of 
the  rest. 

A circumstance  of  this  kind  occurred  to  a French  gentle- 
man, and  the  consul-general,  Gestas,  immediately  applied 
for  redress.  The  things  abstracted  were  plates  from  a 
work  which  was  useless  without  them  ; but  he  could  ob- 


248 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


tain  no  satisfaction.  He  at  length  met  Calmon,  the  minis- 
ter of  finance,  and  the  Juiz  d’Alfandega,  and  stated  the 
case  to  them  both.  They  retired,  and  in  a short  time  the 
consul  was  referred  to  the  juiz.  He  said  the  affair  was  of 
such  a nature,  that  he  thought  it  would  bring  scandal  on 
the  establishment,  but,  at  the  same  time,  ought  to  be  redress- 
ed ; so  he  took  the  money  at  which  the  work  was  valued, 
out  of  his  pocket,  and  offered  it  to  the  consul.  He  refused 
to  compromise  felony  in  that  way  ; and  wrote  to  the  Mar- 
quez d’Aracaty,  the  minister  for  foreign  affairs,  stating  the 
underhand  offer  made  him,  and  demanding  public  redress. 
This  was  immediately  afforded.  The  value  of  the  purloin- 
ed articles  was  viven  through  the  custom-house,  the  same 
channel  as  that  through  which  the  injury  had  been  received  ; 
and  the  French,  I am  told,  are  ever  since  protected  from 
similar  injury. 

This  petty  depredation,  however,  inflicting  so  great  an 
injury,  and  affording  so  small  a profit,  was  part  of  the  sys- 
tem of  universal  peculation  that  was  practised  or  permitted 
in  the  reign  of  the  easy  and  good-natured  Horn  John,  but  is 
now  fast  disappearing,  and  better  usages  established. 

Next  to  manufactured  goods,  flour  is  the  great  article  of 
importation  to  an  infant  state,  as  incapable  hitherto  of  grow- 
ing the  one,  as  of  making  the  other.  From  eighty  to  ninety 
thousand  barrels  of  flour  are  annually  consumed  at  Rio  and 
its  dependencies,  which  are  almost  exclusively  supplied 
from  the  United  States.  Dried  fish  also  is  consumed  in 
great  quantities,  as  the  great  article  of  food  in  Lent  and  on 
fast-days,  and  nearly  the  whole  of  it  is  sent  by  the  English 
from  the  banks  of  Newfoundland.  Bees-wax,  from  the  coast 
of  Africa,  for  different  religious  purposes,  is  in  immense  de- 
mand, but  it  is  generally  brought  in  Brazilian  ships.  Soap 
is  also  much  prized,  that  of  the  country  being^of  a very  vile 
quality,  and  generally  like  soft  yellow  clay.  These,  with 
Russian  canvas  and  cordage,  Swedish  iron,  Catalonia  wine, 
the  great  consumption  of  the  people,  and  India  goods,  form 
the  principal  part  of  the  imports.  It  was  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  the  Brazilians  to  import  the  last  into  the  coun- 
try, but  by  a decree  of  1827,  the  commerce  was  thrown  open 
to  ships  of  all  nations,  paying  a duty  of  15  per  cent,  ad  va- 
lorem. There  are  five  East  Indiamen  trading  from  the  har- 
bor of  Rio.  The  Brazilians  have  shown  a similar  liberality 
with  respect  to  other  monopolies.  Formerly  a company  at 
St.  Catherine’s  had  the  exclusive  right  to  supply  the  coun- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


249 


try  with  whale  oil.  The  trade  of  this  also  is  now  made  free 
to  all  the  world. 

The  great  exports  of  the  country  are  coffee,  sugar,  hides, 
horns,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  ipecacuanha. 

Coffee  is  gathered  twice  in  the  year,  in  February  and 
August,  and  comes  to  market  in  greatest  abundance  and  of 
the  best  quality  from  July  to  December.  It  is  purchased 
from  the  planters  by  a class  of  intermediate  traders,  who 
pack  it  in  bags  containing  five  arrobas,  or  160  lbs.,  and  is 
thus  sold  to  the  merchants  ; full  confidence  is  placed  in  the 
weight,  as  no  instance  has  occurred  in  which  it  was  found 
defective,  and  the  custom-house  receives  the  duty  without 
re-weighing.  This  is  certainly  creditable  to  the  honesty  of 
the  Brazilians.  In  1828,  there  were  58,87  1 ,360  lbs.  ex- 
ported. 

Two  qualities  of  sugars  are  known  ; one  from  Campos, 
in  the  north,  and  the  other  from  Santos,  in  the  south.  They 
are  brought  in  coasting  vessels,  in  boxes  weighing  about 
2000  lbs.,  and  deposited  in  trapixes  or  public  stores  ; a 
large  quantity  is  also  made  in  the  district  of  Rio.  The  pro- 
cess is  so  well  known,  that  you  would  think  me  tedious  if  I 
described  it.  In  1828  there  were  19,126  cases,  465  boxes, 
and  13,867  barrels  exported. 

Hides  and  horns  come  from  Rio  Grande  and  the  flat  llanos 
on  the  shores  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.  On  the  vast  and 
fertile  Campos  of  Brazil  there  are  none,  either  wild  or  tame. 
In  1828,  207,277  hides,  and  a proportionable  quantity  of 
horns  were  exported. 

Tobacco  is  principally  for  the  Spanish  market.  The 
quantity  exported  in  1828  was  24,620  lbs.  Cottons  are  sent 
from  the  Minas  to  Rio,  but  the  quality  is  not  so  good  as 
those  from  Pernambuco.  The  exports  of  1828  were  2,440 
serrons  of  128  lbs.  each. 

England,  France,  Prussia,  Hamburgh,  and  Bremen  have 
commercial  treaties  with  Brazil,  and  only  pay  15  per  cent, 
duty.  All  other  nations  pay  24. 

When  a vessel  appears  off  the  coast,  she  is  seen  at  a con- 
siderable distance  from  the  signal-hill,  which,  though  near 
the  middle  of  the  city,  commands  a most  extensive  view  into 
the  Atlantic.  A telegraphic  communication  is  made  of  her 
size  and  quality,  and  the  approach  of  evpry  ship  is  known 
long  before  she  arrives.  In  the  convent  of  S.  Bento  and 
others,  they  have  maps  of  signals,  and  amuse  themselves 
with  reading  the  telegraphic  communications  from  the  sig- 


250 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


nal-hill,  which  is  everywhere  visible.  A vessel  may  pass 
the  fort  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  enter  the  harbor  at  any  hour  of 
the  night,  or  day  ; but  she  must  bring-to  under  the  island  of 
Villegagnon,  and  there  be  visited  by  the  custom  house  guard 
and  the  officers  of  health. 

The  number  of  foreign  vessels  which  entered  the  harbor 
of  Rio  last  year  was  as  follows  : English,  two  hundred  and 
sixtysix  ; American,  one  hundred  and  fiftyone  ; French, 
thirtynine  ; Swedish,  fourteen  ; Danish,  Dutch,  and  other 
nations,  thirtyfive  ; making  in  all  five  hundred  and  five 
foreign  traders,  carrying  151,500  tons  ; besides  about  nine- 
ty vessels  of  war.  I stood  one  day  on  the  hill  of  S.  Bento, 
which  commanded  a view  of  the  harbor,  and  I reckoned 
two  hundred  and  sixteen  vessels  of  all  sizes  lying  in  the 
bay,  besides  natives  and  small  craft.  It  was  a goodly 
sight  to  see  the  flags  of  all  nations,  floating  together  in  am- 
icable union,  and  the  vessels  freighted  with  the  produce  of 
all  countries,  and  the  industry  of  all  people  ; and  I looked 
back  to  the  time,  only  a few  years  since,  when  jealousy  and 
monopoly  had  excluded  them  all.  I send  you  a paper  on 
the  present  state  of  trade  at  Bio,  communicated  to  me  by 
my  intelligent  friend  Mr.  Price* 

The  accounts  of  the  country  are  kept  in  a small  nominal 
coin  called  a rei,  of  which  there  are  about  five  in  an  Eng- 
lish farthing,  or  nine  hundred  and  sixty  in  a dollar.  There 
was  once  in  circulation  a coin,  so  low  as  a rei  and  a half ; 
but  the  beggars  in  Lisbon,  to  whom  they  were  always 
given,  threw  them,  whenever  they  received  them  in  charity, 
into  the  Tagus,  and  they  have  now  all  disappeared.  I saw 
one  in  a gentleman’s  collection,  and  he  esteemed  it  above 
price  for  its  rarity. 

When  I was  first  presented  with  an  account  at  Rio,  I 
was  startled  at  the  number  of  figures  till  I was  directed  to 
strike  off  the  last  three,  and  the  remainder  was  milreis, 
nearly  equivalent  to  so  many  dollars. 

The  coins  in  circulation  are — copper,  a half  vintem,  ten 
reis  ; a vintem,  twenty  ; a cobre,  forty  ; four  vintems,  eigh- 
ty ; — silver,  a half  patacca,  one  hundred  and  sixty  reis  ; 
a patacca,  three  hundred  and  twenty  ; two  pataccas,  six 
hundred  and  forty  ; a pataccoon,  nine  hundred  and  sixty  ; 

- — -gold,  a four  milrei  piece,  four  thousand  reis  ; a half 
doubloon,  six  thousand  four  hundred  ; a doubloon,  twelve 


See  Appendix,  No.  IV, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


251 


thousand  eight  hundred.  All  these  have  now  disappeared, 
except  the  copper,  although  no  specie  is  allowed  to  be  ex- 
ported from  the  country. 

The  great  medium  of  circulation  was  notes,  which  were 
current  only  in  the  province  of  Rio  ; and  in  change  for 
these,  silver,  when  it  could  be  had,  bore  a discount  of  six- 
ty per  cent.,  and  even  copper  of  twentyfive.  This  dis- 
count on  copper,  the  only  coin  in  circulation,  went  on  every 
day  increasing  ; and  when  the  news  of  the  insurrection  at 
Pernambuco  arrived,  it  rose  to  fifty  per  cent.  ; the  ex- 
change rose  in  proportion,  and  a British  sovereign  passed 
for  ten  thousand  reis. 

The  copper  coin  most  in  use,  is  a large  piece  of  eighty 
reis,  exceedingly  ponderous  and  inconvenient  to  carry 
about.  It  was  coined  from  sheet  copper  sent  from  England, 
but  a great  loss  was  sustained  by  the  waste,  which  the  Bra- 
zilians could  make  no  use  of  ; and  an  English  merchant 
raised  a fortune  by  purchasing  it,  and  sending  it  again  back 
to  England  to  be  recast  into  sheets,  which  again  came 
out.  This,  however,  has  now  been  put  an  end  to,  and  the 
people,  grown  wiser,  get  the  metal  from  England  already 
cut  into  the  size  of  the  coin,  and  it  is  then  sent  to  the  mint 
to  be  stamped  with  the  Brazilian  impress. 

There  had  been  a mint  in  Brazil  so  early  as  1699, 
where  they  coined  moedos,  or  four  milrei  pieces,  two  patac 
pieces,  and  vintems.  In  the  year  1722,  John  V.  ordered 
a copper  coinage  to  be  struck  for  Brazil,  with  the  legend, 
Pecunia  totam  circuit  orbem  ; and  another,  with  JEs  usibus 
apiius  auro.  The  first  is  still  to  be  seen  on  the  vintems  of 
Dom  John  VI.  ; and  the  latter  is  a practical  hint,  which 
they  have  now  adopted  in  its  full  extent.  The  present 
mint  is  modern  ; it  forms  part  of  the  treasury  which  stands 
behind  the  theatre.  It  is  a long  low  building  ; up  a flight 
of  stairs  is  a landing  place,  from  whence  are  long  galle- 
ries leading  to  different  offices,  and  if  I was  to  judge  from 
the  number  of  desks  and  clerks,  it  is  a most  extensive 
and  active  establishment.  On  the  opposite  side  of  a court- 
yard is  the  mint  where  I saw  men  wheeling  barrows  full 
of  circular  pieces  of  copper  just  as  they  came  from  Eng- 
land, in  at  one  door,  and  they  issued  out  of  another,  as 
almost  the  only  circulating  coin.  A few  Spanish  dollars 
are  sometimes  seen  ; their  nominal  value  is  800  reis,  but 
when  they  pass  through  this  mint  with  the  Brazilian  im- 


252 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


press,  they  pass  for  960,  without  any  increase  of  their  in- 
trinsic value. 

Near  the  mint  is  the  establishment  for  cutting  diamonds, 
which  maybe  considered  part  of  the  treasury.  This  con- 
sists of  a large,  bare,  open  building,  like  a stable,  as  pub- 
lic as  the  street,  into  which  everybody  is  admitted  without 
question  or  inquiry.  Along  the  walls,  at  each  side,  four- 
teen presses  are  arranged,  with  two  horizontal  wheels  at- 
tached to  each.  The  wheels  are  turned  by  negroes,  and 
communicate  with  steel  cylinders,  which  they  move  round 
very  rapidly.  The  diamond-cutter  sits  inside  on  a stool, 
with  the  cylinder  turning  before  him.  He  beds  the  dia- 
mond in  a composition  of  lead  and  tin,  placed  on  the  point 
of  an  iron  handle.  This  he  lays  on  the  cylinder,  which  is 
previously  prepared  with  diamond  dust,  and  places  on  it  a 
weight  to  press  it  down,  with  more  or  less  force,  against 
the  revolving  surface.  Every  man  has  three  or  four  dia- 
monds, which  he  takes  out  of  press  occasionally,  and  in  suc- 
cession, to  observe  how  the  process  of  cutting  is  going  on. 

Government  sometimes  sell  the  diamonds  in  the  rough, 
but  people  always  prefer  buying  them  after  they  have  been 
polished  and  prepared  here,  as  their  flaws  and  imperfections 
are  then  better  seen  after  this  process.  They  had  just  at 
that  time  advertised  the  sale  of  a lot  of  400,000/.  worth, 
prepared  in  this  place.  It  seemed  to  me  extraordinary  that 
an  establishment,  where  so  much  precious  property  is  ex- 
posed, should  be  as  open  as  a public  market,  where  all 
comers  are  allowed  to  enter  and  walk  about,  and  are  suf- 
fered and,  indeed,  invited  to  handle  and  examine  the  dia- 
mond, during  the  process,  without  the  smallest  suspicion  or 
interruption.  * 


NOTICES  OF  FRAZIL. 


253 


CHAP.  XXL 

Extraordinary  Increase  of  the  City. — Obstructions  to  Improvement  and  Salubrity. 

Numbering  of  Houses.— Lighting  with  Gas.— Creaking  Carts.— Population  of  Rio 
very  uncertain  hitherto. — Usual  Rates  of  Calculation  not  applicable  to  Rio,  and 
why — French — English. — Probable  Amount  of  present  Population. — Manners  of 
the  People,  Ministers,  Men  of  Rank,  and  Ladies. — Shopkeepers. — Make  Vows  in 
Danger. — Brazilian  Menage. — Negro  Improvidence. — Association  of  Trades — Glass 
and  Tea,  Barbers  and  Musicians. — No  Beggars  jior  unfortunate  Females  ever  seen 
in  the  Streets. — Foundlings — singular  Advantages  of  Slaves  when  illegitimate. — * 
Amusements,  Passeio  Publico,  barbarous  Taste  in  shutting  out  the  Sea-Air. — . 
Botanic  Garden,  improperly  so  called. — Plants  from  He  de  France  and  Cayenne, 
and  Tea  from  China. — Drink  it  at  the  Garden. 


The  influx  of  new  inhabitants,  in  consequence  of  the  in- 
crease of  commercial  enterprise,  has  been  very  great,  and 
the  town  has,  in  consequence,  expanded  in  all  directions. 
The  old  city  was  almost  exclusively  confined  to  the  narrow 
space  between  the  hills,  extending  from  the  Rua  Direita  to 
the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna.  It  now  stretches  nearly  to 
Bota  Fogo  on  one  side,  and  to  S.  Christovao  on  the  other, 
forming  a cidade  nova  5 and  when  the  area  within  these  lim- 
its is  filled  up  with  houses,  the  city  of  Rio  will  be  as  exten- 
sive as  any  in  Europe.  Nor  is  this  at  all  improbable,  at 
no  very  great  distance  of  time.  Already,  in  the  memory 
of  persons  residing  there,  the  most  extensive  and  almost 
incredible  accessions  have  been  made  to  the  city  ; — the 
whole  of  the  space  about  the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna  was  a 
stagnant  marsh  ; it  is  now  drained,  and  covered  with  streets  ; 
— from  the  hill  of  the  Gloria  to  the  river  Catete,  was  a 
sandy  plain  ; it  is  now  a large  district  of  the  town,  full  of 
houses  ; — the  Mata  Cavallos*  was  a rugged  thicket,  so 
called  from  its  fatiguing  horses  ; it  is  now  a fine  and  ex- 
tensive street  ; — and  the  Vallongo  and  its  vicinity,  since 
rendered  infamous  as  the  slave-market  of  the  province,  was 
not  then  in  existence.  The  present  extent  of  the  city  may 
be  estimated  from  the  length  of  the  streets.  From  the 
bridge  of  Catete  to  the  convent  of  S.  Bento,  is  a continued 
avenue  of  houses,  deviating  a little  from  a right  line  ot 
nearly  four  miles.  The  style  of  building,  however,  is  sus^ 

* Literally,  kill-horse. — “ Assim  chamada  por  ser  huma  vereda  cheia 
de  barrancos,  e que  muito  can5ava  os  animaes.” 

22 


254 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


ceptible  of  great  improvement.  The  houses  in  general  are 
erected  without  any  regard  to  uniformity,  either  in  size  or 
plan.  The  Rocio,  or  square,  in  which  the  theatre  stands, 
is  a remarkable  instance  of  this ; there  are  not  to  be  seen 
in  it  two  edifices  of  the  same  shape  or  dimensions. 

The  great  impediment  to  the  salubrity  and  increase  of  the 
town  within  convenient  distances,  is  the  steep  hills  which 
everywhere  obstruct  the  line  of  streets.  Some  of  these, 
however,  are  mounds  of  clay,  which  it  would  not  be  impos- 
sible to  level,  at  least  to  an  inclined  plane,  sufficiently  ac- 
cessible, for  streets  to  pass  over  them.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  the  hill  of  S.  Antonio,  which  rises  like  a vast 
protuberance  between  the  most  populous  parts  of  the  town, 
completely  interrupting  the  communication,  unless  by  wind- 
ing by  a tedious  circuit  round  the  base.  I was  informed,  it 
was  in  serious  contemplation  to  attempt  the  removal  of  some 
part  of  the  surface  of  this  mound  of  earth,  and  build  on  the 
summit  a square,  with  streets  leading  up  the  sides,  which 
would  at  once  greatly  contribute  to  the  beauty,  convenience, 
and  salubrity  of  the  city.  This  had  been  the  plan  of  Dom 
John,  whose  first  inquiry,  on  his  arrival,  was  about  the 
health  of  the  place  ; and  he  wished  that  all  future  houses 
should  be  built  on  the  hills. 

In  order  to  give  you  an  idea  of  those  localities,  I had  a 
plan  of  the  town  taken  by  actual  survey,  in  which  I myself 
partly  assisted  ; I believe  you  may  rely  on  it  as  approxi- 
mating to  a correct  representation  of  the  actual  state  of  the 
city  at  present,  as  I had  the  houses  reckoned,  and  the  length 
of  the  streets  measured.  I showed  it,  when  it  was  finished, 
to  the  minister  of  the  interior,  who  approved  of  it  as  correct. 
It  is  accompanied  by  references  to  the  streets  and  public 
buildings.* 

The  houses  are  all  numbered,  and  in  a more 'convenient 
manner  than  ours.  The  odd  numbers  are  marked  on  the 
right  hand  side,  and  the  even  on  the  left  ; the  passenger 
being  always  supposed  to  have  his  face  towards  the  palace. 
This  greatly  abridges  inquiry,  as  you  always  know  the  side 
of  the  street  on  which  the  house  you  want  is  to  be  found. 

Formerly,  the  only  light  afforded  to  passengers  at  night 
proceeded  from  the  tapers  burning  before  the  shrines  of 
saints  at  the  corners  of  streets.  Lamps,  however,  are  now 
sufficiently  numerous,  and  the  town  is  as  well  provided  as 

* See  Appendix,  No.  V. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


255 


most  cities  on  the  continent  of  Europe.  It  has  been,  how- 
ever, the  general  wish  that  gas  should  be  substituted  for  oil. 
At  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  Rio,  a company  was  talked  of  ; 
and  on  the  23d  of  October,  1828,  a decree  was  issued  for  its 
formation,  under  the  direction  of  Antonio  da  Costa,  a Bra- 
zilian merchant.  It  is  intended  to  light  the  city  with  1500 
lamps,  suspended  from  iron  posts,  at  distances  not  exceeding 
twenty  fathoms,  to  be  lighted  every  night  when  the  moon 
did  not  shine,  and  continued  till  day-dawn,  for  which  the 
government  was  to  pay  the  company  sixty  contos  of  reis  ; 
the  machinery  to  be  imported  duty  free,  but  paid  for  and 
laid  down  at  the  expense  of  the  company  : lighting  arma- 
zens,  vendas,  theatres,  or  other  establishments,  to  be  paid  for 
in  addition  by  the  proprietors.  Government  purpose  to  give 
every  facility  and  encouragement  to  the  undertaking,  and 
exempt  all  persons  employed  by  the  company  from  military 
service.  If  this  gas  be  substituted  in  the  churches  for  wax 
candles,  it  will  be  an  immense  saving  to  the  irmandades,  and 
add  considerably  to  the  splendor  of  their  illuminations. 

Among  the  annoyances  which  tease  a stranger  in  the 
streets  of  Rio,  is  the  everlasting  creaking  of  carts.  The 
wheels  are  heavy  blocks  of  wood,  fixed  to  the  extremities  of 
a thick  axle,  and  they  turn  both  together.  The  extensive 
friction  of  the  large  revolving  surface,  which  is  never  greased, 
against  the  shafts  of  the  machine  carrying  a heavy  load,  not 
only  greatly  increases  the  difficulty  of  the  draught,  but 
causes  a creaking  sound,  quite  intolerable  to  unused  ears. 
Every  proprietor  of  a vehicle,  offending  in  this  way,  is  liable 
to  a fine  of  six  milreis  ; but  they  will  not  prevent  it  by  any 
precaution,  for  they  say  the  bullocks  will  not  draw  kindly 
without  the  noise  they  are  accustomed  to  ; and  as  this  is  a 
general  prejudice,  no  one  will  exact  the  fine,  except  the  em- 
peror himself,  who  is  anxious  to  put  an  end  to  the  absurd 
nuisance.  He  always  stops  the  creaking  cart,  levies  the 
penalty,  and  puts  the  amount  into  his  pocket. 

The  present  population  of  Rio  is  a subject  involved  in 
considerable  uncertainty.  In  1648  it  contained  but  2,500 
people.  In  1811  an  incorrect  census  was  taken  of  the  whole 
country,  when  the  inhabitants  were  said  to  amount  to  three 
millions,  and  those  of  Rio  to  46,944  ; viz.  22,780  whites, 
4,701  Indians,  9,888  free  mulattos  and  blacks,  and  14,276 
mulatto  and  black  slaves.  This  return  was  so  carelessly 
made  up,  that  the  totals  did  not  correspond  with  the  partic- 
ulars, as  you  perceive.  Another  census  was  taken  about 


256 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


four  years  ago,  but  it  also  was  notoriously  defective  ; the 
war,  at  that  time,  was  raging  with  Buenos  Ayres,  and  the 
people  made  false  returns,  to  evade  the  military  conscription. 
The  gross  amount  was,  however,  I am  told,  supposed  to  be 
130,000.  I applied  for  information  on  this  subject  to  the 
minister  of  the  interior,  and  he  informed  me  that  government 
was  then  engaged  in  making  an  accurate  census,  which 
might  be  relied  on  ; and  he  was  so  good  as  to  promise  me 
a copy  of  it,  when  it  should  be  completed.  I have  not  yet 
received  it,  and  you  must  be  content,  for  the  present,  with 
such  conjecture  as  I can  make  from  the  data  before  me. 

I find  there  are  actually,  by  my  enumeration,  15,623  in- 
habited houses  in  the  town  ; and  as  the  Brazilians  are  a 
prolific  people,  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  allow  six  persons 
to  a family,  which  would  give  nearly  100,000  inhabitants, 
supposing  such  a population  as  is  to  be  found  in  a Europe- 
an town.  The  ratio  of  calculation,  however,  is  very  differ- 
ent at  Rio,  and,  indeed,  in  every  slave  country.  All  the 
houses  belong  to  free  persons,  generally  whites  ; but,  be- 
sides their  families,  there  are  seldom  less  than  three  or  four 
slaves  in  each.  In  some  there  are  twenty  ; and  a man  was 
pointed  out  to  me,  in  Bota  Fogo,  whose  family  consisted  of 
six  persons,  and  who  had  besides  fifty  blacks,  all  living  in  his 
house,  which  was  not  large.  You  will  say,  how  is  it  possible 
that  such  a number  oft ^htiman  beings  could  be  accommoda- 
ted ? but  a slave  is  a human  being  whose  accommodation 
is  never  thought  of.  A bed  or  a blanket,  much  less  a sleep- 
ing room,  is  out  of  the  question.  Sometimes,  when  he  is 
inclined  to  indulgence,  he  procures  for  himself  an  old  estera, 
or  mat,  which  he  lays  anywhere  ; but  generally  the  poor 
creatures  throw  themselves  down  on  the  floor  of  the  hall, 
kitchen,  or  out-house  ; or,  if  the  weather  be  cold,  lie  close 
to,  or  on  the  top  of  each  other,  to  keep  themselves  warm, 
as  you  have  often  seen  black  j3igs  in  a distillery  yard.  In 
passing  through  a hall  I have  observed  them  coiled  up  at 
the  foot  of  the  stairs,  like  dogs,  and  often  mistaken  them  for 
such.  In  this  way,  small  low  houses,  of  one  story,  in  Rio, 
which  in  Europe  would  not  be  supposed  capable  of  contain- 
ing more  than  the  average  of  four  or  five  persons,  have  ten 
or  fifteen  stowed  in  them.  Many  houses  also  are  remark- 
ably large,  and  let  out  in  flats,  like  those  in  Edinburgh,  and 
each  contains  three  or  four  families. 

Almost  all  the  persons  who  sell  vegetables  about  the 
streets,  and  at  stands,  are  free  negroes.  Some  of  them  take 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


257 


houses  in  the  becos,  or  blind  alleys,  off  the  streets,  to  which 
the  rest  resort  for  diet  and  lodging  ; a small  room,  twelve 
feet  square,  will  hold  ten  or  twelve  of  these  negroes,  whose 
apartment  is  confined  to  the  space  of  the  floor  his  extended 
body  can  occupy.  Their  bed  is  a mat,  five  feet  by  three, 
and  the  room  is  let  out  to  as  many  mats  as  it  will  contain. 
The  black  population  has  latterly  enormously  increased. — 
As  the  period  approached  for  the  total  abolition  of  the  slave 
trade,  capital  has  been  everywhere  embarked  in  the  pur- 
chase of  negroes,  insomuch  so,  that  fortyfive  thousand  were 
imported  during  the  year  1828,  into  the  city  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro  alone.  It  is  true,  that  a great  many  of  these  are 
sent  up  the  country  ; but  it  is  also  true,  that  a great  pro- 
portion remains  in  the  town,  to  supply  the  demands  of  the 
expanding  white  population,  so  that  their  increase  has  been 
beyond  all  ordinary  calculation  ; my  eye  really  was  so  fa- 
miliarized to  black  visages,  that  the  occurrence  of  a white 
face  in  the  streets  of  some  parts  of  the  town,  struck  me  as  a 
novelty. 

Of  all  strangers,  the  French  form  the  most  numerous 
population.  Their  first  coming  was  a few,  on  the  resto- 
ration of  the  Bourbons,  in  1813  ; but  in  the  year  1816,  the 
American  ship  Calphe  arrived,  bringing  from  Havre  vari- 
ous French  families.  Among  these  were  artists,  who  were 
to  be  professors  of  the  new  academy  of  arts  and  sciences, 
then  proposed  to  be  established  by  Dom  John.  They  now 
form  a community  of  about  fourteen  hundred  persons,  and 
their  shops  fill  some  of  the  principal  streets,  where  they  are 
the  best  furnished,  and  the  most  conspicuous.  Curtains, 
mirrors,  ornamental  clocks,  and  enamelled  China  vases, 
principally  distinguish  them,  and  give  an  elegance  and  gai- 
ety to  the  Rua  d’Ou vidor,  d’Ourives,  and  other  places  where 
they  inhabit.  They  have  a bazaar  and  about  one  hundred 
and  forty  shops,  where  all  manner  of  trades  are  exercised, 
characteristic  of  the  nation  ; boulangers,  doreurs  de  metaux, 
emailleurs,  fabriqueurs  de  liqueures,  horlogers,  lampistes, 
patissiers,  tapissiers,  &c.  Besides  these,  there  are  thirty 
marchandes  de  modes,  bijoutiers,  chapelins,  and  other  ar- 
tistes, who  ornament  the  person  ; and  among  the  rest,  above 
twenty  marchands  de  nouveautes  Fran^aises,  sellers  of 
French  novelties,  whose  shops  are  filled  with  all  manner  of 
nondescript  trinkets  and  useless  ornaments.  They  are*  al- 
so the  only  booksellers  in  Rio.  There  are  twelve  libraires 
and  relieurs,  some  of  whom  keep  circulating  libraries,  and 
22* 


258 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


have  a good  collection  of  books  in  all  languages,  and  they 
publish  the  best  newspaper  in  the  capital. 

The  English,  though  they  had  the  precedence  in  point  of 
time,  do  not  amount  to  more  than  half  the  number.  Their 
houses  make  no  display,  nor  have  they  any  elegant  shops 
which  ornament  the  streets.  Their  goods  are  all  packed 
up  in  warehouses,  and  are  only  exhibited  in  the  shops  of 
the  Brazilians,  with  whom  they  generally  settle  every  Sat- 
urday for  the  amount.  They  have  lately  established  a 
circulating  library,  well  supplied  with  all  the  new  publica- 
tions in  Europe,  and  also  a newspaper,  which  I believe  is 
now  discontinued. 

From  all  these  data,  then,  I am  disposed  to  adopt  the 
opinion  of  those  with  whom  I conversed  on  the  subject  at 
Rio,  that  the  present  population  of  the  town  is  nearly  150,000 
persons,  of  whom  two-thirds  at  least  are  blacks. 

You  will  think,  perhaps,  that  I have  dwelt  too  long  on  a 
subject  apparently  of  such  little  importance,  as  to  the  num- 
ber of  persons  in  this  American  town  ; but  I consider  it  as 
the  future  great  capital  of  a mighty  empire  ; and  I love  to 
dwell  on  u the  state  of  its  childhood,”  as  we  search  with 
avidity  in  Europe  for  anecdotes  of  the  infancy  of  great  men. 
When  it  contains,  as  it  probably  will  hereafter,  a million  or 
more  of  white  freemen,  they  will  be  astonished  to  recollect, 
that  once  on  a time  two-thirds  of  the  people  were  black 
slaves. 

The  manners  of  the  people  of  Rio,  though  not  polished, 
are  kind  and  cordial.  I had  opportunities  of  witnessing 
those  of  all  ranks.  Immediately  after  our  arrival,  we  din- 
ed with  Baron  Mareschal,  the  Austrian  plenipotentiary, 
where  I met  the  whole  of  the  ministry,  and  other  distin- 
guished Brazilians.  They  were  men  generally  of  low 
stature,  and  had  not  the  least  appearance  or  pretension  of 
a similar  class  in  Europe.  The  greater  number  had  been 
engaged  in  business,  and  being  men  of  opulence  when  the 
separation  of  the  countries  took  place,  naturally  stepped 
into  those  situations,  formerly  occupied  by  strangers  of 
rank  from  the  parent  country.  They  were  men  of  the 
plainest  manners,  laughing,  good-humored,  and  accessible, 
like  common-councilmen  at  a London  feast.  Their  dress, 
however,  was  rich  and  expensive  ; and  some  of  them  wore 
large  golden  keys,  attached  like  small  swords  to  their  sides, 
intimating  that  they  performed  the  office  of  chamberlain  to 
bis  Majesty.  Among  them  was  a little  man,  with  a sharp 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


25q 


pock-marked  visage,  formerly  a jeweller,  but  now  the  arbi- 
ter elegantiarum  of  the  court.  He  holds  no  official  situation, 
but  has  attained  the  same  influence  over  the  Emperor  that 
Halet  Effendi  possessed  over  the  Sultan  when  I was  at 
Constantinople.  He  is  familiarly  called  in  Rio,  Chalassa, 
a local  term,  synonimous  I believe  with  bon  vivant. 

Shortly  after  I was  at  a ball  given  by  M.  Pontois,  the 
French  Charge  d’Affaires,  where  I saw  the  ladies  who  com- 
posed the  beau  monde  of  Rio,  dancing  waltzes  and  quad- 
rilles. They,  like  the  men,  were  remarkably  low  of  stature, 
with  sallow  complexions,  and  dark  eyes  and  hair.  The  lat- 
ter was  dressed  remarkably  high,  and  ornamented  with  va- 
rious productions  of  the  country  ; among  these  were  the 
shells  of  a very  beautiful  species  of  beetle,  of  a rich  vivid 
green,  more  bright  and  lustrous  than  the  finest  emerald. 
They  danced  well,  and  their  manners  were  very  affable  and 
unaffected. 

The  shopkeepers  of  Rio  are  rather  repulsive  in  their  ad- 
dress, and  so  little  disposed  to  take  trouble,  that  a customer 
is  often  induced  to  leave  the  shop,  by  the  careless  way  in 
which  he  is  treated.  They  are  exceedingly  fond  of  seden- 
tary games  of  chance,  such  as  cards  and  draughts,  and  often 
engage  at  them  on  their  counters.  I have  sometimes 
gone  in  at  those  times  to  purchase  an  article,  and  the  peo- 
ple were  so  interested  in  their  game,  that  they  would  not 
leave  it  to  attend  to  me  and  sell  their  goods.  They  are, 
however,  honest  and  correct  in  their  dealings,  and  bear 
good  moral  characters.  Their  charity  is  boundless,  as  ap- 
pears by  the  sums  expended  on  different  objects  by  the 
irmandades  or  brotherhoods  which  they  form.  They  are, 
as  far  as  I have  heard,  generelly  speaking,  good  fathers 
and  husbands,  and  their  families  are  brought  up  with  strict- 
ness and  propriety.  It  is  pleasing  to  see  them  walking  out 
together,  the  corpulent  parents  going  before,  and  the  chil- 
dren and  domestics  following  in  their  orders.  The  women 
are  fond  of  black,  wear  no  caps,  but  a black  veil  is  gene- 
rally thrown  over  their  bare  heads,  which  hangs  down  be- 
low their  bosom  and  back  ; and  as  it  is  generally  worked 
and  spotted,  it  makes  their  faces  look,  at  a little  distance,  as 
if  they  were  covered  with  black  patches.  They  always  wear 
silk  stockings  and  shoes,  and  are  particularly  neat  and  care- 
ful in  the  decorations  of  their  feet  and  legs,  which  are  gen- 
erally small  and  well-shaped.  The  boys  of  this  rank  are 
remarkably  obliging  ; when  I saw  anything'  among  them 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


2(10 

that  seemed  curious,  and  I expressed  a wish  to  look  at  it, 
they  always  pressed  it  on  my  acceptance  with  great  good 
nature,  and  seemed  pleased  at  an  opportunity  of  gratify- 
ing me. 

The  Brazilians,  in  any  difficulty  or  danger,  make  vows 
to  perform  certain  acts,  in  token  of  their  gratitude  to  Pro- 
vidence if  they  are  extricated.  These  vows  they  religious- 
ly keep,  and  they  are  sometimes  productive  of  great  unhap- 
piness. The  patrona,  or  master  of  a boat,  in  which  I used 
to  cross  the  bay,  was  a remarkably  good-looking  man.  He 
was  once  overtaken  by  a storm  in  the  same  place,  and  made 
a solemn  vow,  that  if  he  reached  the  shore,  he  would  marry 
the  first  disengaged  woman  he  met.  He  faithfully  kept  his 
word  ; connected  himself  with  a person  he  knew  nothing 
about,  who  proved  to  be  a vile  character,  and  his  domestic 
comforts  are  forever  embittered. 

They  are  not  indisposed  to  hospitality,  and  they  constant- 
ly accept  invitations  from  strangers,  but  seldom  ask  them 
in  return.  This  arises  from  the  exceeding  deficiency  of 
their  domestic  economy.  A Brazilian  never  keeps  a store 
of  anything  in  his  house  ; but  even  those  of  the  highest  rank 
send  to  a neighboring  venda  for  whatever  they  want,  in  the 
smallest  quantities,  and  only  when  they  want  it.  They 
never  purchase  more  at  a time  than  a pint  of  wine,  or  a few 
ounces  of  sugar  or  coffee  ; and  this,  they  say,  is,  because 
if  they  laid  in  a store,  it  would  be  impossible  to  prevent  their 
slaves  from  getting  at,  and  consuming  it.  When  the  slave 
goes  for  the  article,  he  takes  up  anything  he  can  lay  his 
hand  on  to  carry  it  in.  I have  often  seen  one  of  them  re- 
turning from  a venda  with  a china  tureen  full  of  charcoal 
under  his  arm,  and  a silver  cup  on  his  head,  holding  a few 
loose  candles. 

Some  trades  are  associated  in  a manner  seemingly  as  in- 
congruous. On  many  shops  you  see  written  vidros  e xa , 
glass  and  tea  : intimating  that  the  shopkeeper  is  both  a gla- 
zier and  a grocer.  Some,  however,  are  latterly  approx- 
imating to  a more  natural  association,  and  have  added  china 
to  their  glass,  and  so  sell  both  tea  and  tea-cups. 

The  avocations  of  barbers  are  also  very  various.  They 
vend  and  prepare  tortoise-shell  to  make  combs.  They  bleed 
and  draw  teeth  as  usual  ; and  so  far  are  only  employed  in 
business  connected  with  their  calling,  as  barber-surgeons. 
But  besides  that,  they  exclusively  mend  silk  stockings,  and 
are  remarkable  for  the  neatness  with  which  they  sole  and 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


201 


vamp  them.  I never  passed  a barber’s  shop  that  I did  not 
see  him,  when  not  otherwise  engaged,  with  a black  silk 
stocking  drawn  on  one  arm,  and  his  other  employed  in  mend- 
ing it.  They'  are,  besides,  the  musicians  of  the  country, 
and  are  hired  also  to  play  at  church  doors  during  festivals. 
All  the  persons  who  compose  the  bands  on  these  occasions 
are  barbers.  Over  the  middle  of  every  shop  is  an  arch, 
on  which  are  suspended  the  different  articles  for  sale.  In  a 
barber’s  shop,  the  arch  is  always  hung  round  with  musical 
instruments.  This  association  of  trades  was  formerly  the 
usage  in  England,  when  the  lute  and  cithern  were  always 
found  in  a barber’s  shop,  to  amuse  the  customers  of  better 
condition,  who  came  to  be  trimmed,  as  they  are  now  pre- 
sented with  a newspaper  ; or  sometimes  to  alleviate  the 
pains  of  a wound,  which  the  barber,  in  his  avocation  of  sur- 
geon, was  probing  or  dressing.  But  the  remains  of  those 
customs  which  have  entirely  gone  out  in  Europe,  still  lin- 
ger in  America  among  the  descendants  of  those  who  origi- 
nally brought  them  over. 

It  is  highly  creditable  to  the  citizens  of  Bio,  that  no  na- 
tive beggars  are  ever  seen  in  their  streets.  The  only  per- 
sons of  that  class  I ever  was  accosted  by,  were  foreign 
sailors,  particularly  English  and  North  Americans,  who 
often  attacked  me,  complaining  rudely  that  they  were  out 
of  employment ; they  had  all  the  appearance  of  being  worth- 
less intemperate  fellows,  whose  poverty  was  their  own  fault. 
All  the  natives  in  distress  are  fed  and  clothed  by  the  differ- 
ent irmandades  of  citizens,  or  by  the  convents  ; and  it  is  a 
pleasing  sight  to  see  the  steps  of  religious  edifices  filled,  at 
stated  times,  with  poor  people  disabled  by  age  or  infirmity, 
and  the  good  Samaritans  walking  among  them,  distributing 
food  and  raiment  as  they  require  it. 

It  is  also  much  to  be  commended,  that  no  women  of  bad 
character  are  ever  seen  in  the  streets,  either  by  day  or  night, 
so  as  to  be  known  as  such.  The  decency  and  decorum  of 
this  large  town,  in  this  respect,  is  particularly  striking  to 
those  who  have  been  accustomed  to  the  awful  display  of  licen- 
tiousness, which  besets  them  in  the  streets  and  public  places 
of  Paris  and  London. 

Opposite  the  Misericordia  is  the  Foundling  Hospital, 
where  all  the  poor  exposed  children  are  received  without 
question  or  inquiry.  There  stands  below,  about  the  middle 
of  the  edifice,  a semicircular  box,  like  that  which  formerly 
stood  at  the  gate  of  the  Foundling  Hospital  in  Dublin,  called 


262 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  cradle.  On  pulling  a bell  beside  it,  this  is  thrust  out, 
the  child  is  deposited,  and  the  cradle  is  drawn  in,  without 
any  question  asked.  When  received  into  the  house,  they 
are  considered  as  orphans,  and  under  the  care  of  the  Or- 
phan Society  ; they  are  educated  to  a competent  age,  and 
then  bound  out  to  trades.  Twice  in  the  year  people  come 
to  select  them,  and  receive  a considerable  fee  with  them. 

By  an  alvara  of  the  31st  of  January,  1775,  all  young 
slaves  exposed  were  to  be  brought  up  free  ; but  this  was 
forgotten,  and  some  persons  afterwards  claimed  such  poor 
children,  and  received  them  on  paying  the  expense  of  their 
education.  This  was  justly  considered  a gross  violation  of 
the  alvara  ; and  on  the  22d  of  February,  1823,  a decree  was 
issued,  declaring  that  it  was  most  inhuman,  and  repugnant 
to  the  spirit  of  existing  law,  that  the  foundlings,  abandoned 
by  their  masters,  and  educated  at  the  public  expense,  should 
be  again  reduced  to  slavery.  It  was  therefore  declared 
that  they  must  be  considered  as  orphans,  brought  up  as  citi- 
zens, and  enjoy  all  the  privileges  that  belong  to  free  men, 
without  any  impediment  whatsoever. 

It  seems  an  extraordinary  anomaly,  that  the  circumstance 
which,  in  other  countries,  sinks  the  illegitimate  outcast  into 
the  lowest  ranks  of  society,  should  have  raised  him  to  a re- 
spectability which  he  would  never  attain,  perhaps,  had  he 
not  been  base  born  and  a foundling.  Such  is  the  operation 
of  slavery  ; the  bastard  becomes  a free  citizen,  and  the  le- 
gitimate child  continues  a bondsman. 

The  number  of  children  annually  received  is,  on  an 
average,  from  seventy  to  eighty  ; and  the  whole  number 
remaining  in  the  institution  at  the  same  time  about  five 
hundred. 

* There  are  neither  taverns  nor  tea-gardens,  nor  any  such 
places  of  intemperance  or  amusement  at  Rio  ; the  only 
means  of  enjoyment  and  association,  besides  their  churches, 
are  the  public  gardens  and  the  theatre. 

The  garden  called  the  Passeio  Publico,  or  Public  Walk, 
is  situated  on  the  sea-shore.  From  the  front  of  the  Cala- 
bou^a,  to  that  of  N.  S.  da  Gloria,  is  a fine  sweep  of  strand  ; 
and  near  the  middle  of  the  arch,  the  public  garden  was 
laid  out  by  the  Viceroy  Vasconcellos,  a name  to  which  Rio 
seems  much  indebted.  It  consists  of  broad  walks,  bordered 
with  large  trees,  some  native  and  some  foreign,  forming  a 
dense  and  delightful  shade,  and  enclosing  compartments  with- 
in, set  with  fruit  or  flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  Among  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


263 


former  are  mangas,  (mangofera  indica),  yambos,  (eugenia 
yambos ),  and  grumixams,  ( myrtus  lucida ),  yielding,  in  their 
seasons,  a vast  quantity  of  delicious  fruit,  which  every  one 
is  allowed  to  gather  and  eat.  Among  the  latter  is  the  poin- 
ciana,  ( Ccesalpinia  pulcherrima),  a species  of  Brazil  wood, 
whose  yellow  and  orange  flowers  are  exceedingly  beautiful, 
the  coral-tree,  (erythryna  corallodendron ),  with  long  spikes 
of  scarlet  flowers,  as  large  as  those  of  the  horse-chestnut, 
and  the  magnificent  bombax,  (bombax  erianthos ),  covered  at 
one  time  with  a profusion  of  large  purple  flowers,  like  rich 
tulips,  and  at  another  with  huge  pendant  pods  of  silk. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  garden  is  an  octagon  temple,  intend- 
ed for  a botanical  lecture  room,  where  the  professor  ex- 
plained the  structure  and  qualities  of  the  various  plants  in 
the  garden  ; it  is  now,  however,  entirely  out  of  repair. 

This  place  would  be  a delightful  retreat,  were  it  not  for 
a large  mound  which  they  have  thrown  up  in  front,  ex- 
cluding not  only  the  fine  prospect  of  the  bay,  hut  the  pure 
and  wholesome  breezes  which  would  otherwise  ventilate 
the  walks.  The  sea,  as  if  indignant  at  this  barbarous  taste, 
has  beaten  down  the  mound  with  the  heavy  surge  that  rolls 
in  here  ; but  they  have  now  effectually  secured  it  with  a 
heavy  foundation  of  blocks  of  granite,  and,  I am  sorry  to 
say,  there  is  no  chance  of  its  being  carried  away.  Before 
the  mound  are  two  triangular  obelisks  of  granite  ; on  one  is 
the  inscription,  ao  amor  do  publico;  on  another,  a’  sau- 
dade  do  rio.*  The  sum  of  1,905,000  reis  are  allowed  to 
keep  it  up. 

Every  evening,  this  garden  is  crowded  with  citizens  and 
their  families,  who  ascend  the  mound  to  breathe  the  sea  air, 
which  is  shut  out  from  the  garden.  Here  I often  sat,  and 
had  the  opportunity  of  observing  to  some  Brazilian  friends, 
the  great  regularity  of  a phenomenon  very  common  on  sea 
shores,  but  which  has  never  been  satisfactorily  accounted 
for.  Three  waves  always  followed  one  another,  in  regular 
succession,  and  then  a comparatively  calm  interval  succeed- 
ed, till  the  receding  water  collected  sufficient  for  three 
more,  and  so  on  at  regular  periods.  The  first  wave  was 
low  and  weak,  the  second  somewhat  stronger,  but  the  third 
of  considerable  size,  curling  into  an  arch,  seven  or  eight 
feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  then  descending  with  un- 
common violence,  shaking  and  shattering  the  whole  mound  ; 


For  the  public  love — For  the  health  of  Rio. 


264 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


as  if  we  could  suppose  one  side  of  a bridge  to  be  lifted  up,' 
and  the  edge  let  fall  violently  on  its  abutment.* 

Besides  this  public  garden  in  the  city,  there  is  another  at 
some  distance,  much  more  extensive.  In  the  year  1809,  a 
vessel  brought  to  Rio  a number  of  Portuguese  prisoners, 
from  the  He  de  France  ; and  in  the  same  ship,  twenty  cases 
of  Oriental  plants,  which  had  been  formerly  transplanted 
from  the  East  Indies,  and  assimilated  to  the  climate  of  the 
island  by  the  French.  Among  these,  were  camphors, 
cloves,  mangoes,  and  other  fruits  and  spices,  heretofore  un- 
known in  Brazil.  These  were  immediately  placed  in  the 
royal  gardens,  at  the  Lagoa  de  Frietas,  where  they  soon 
accommodated  themselves  to  the  soil  and  climate,  and  from 
thence  young  plants  were  transferred  to  other  places  in  the 
country.  In  the  year  1 810,  a number  was  brought  also, 
from  the  celebrated  gardens  of  Gabriella,  in  Cayenne,  which 
was  then  occupied  by  the  Portuguese,  and  transferred  to 
the  same  garden.  Shortly  after,  tea  was  introduced  from 
China,  and  a colony  of  natives  invited  over  to  superintend 
the  cultivation  ; and,  in  order  to  encourage  and  extend  the 
growth  and  cultivation  of  these  foreign  plants,  all  spices, 
and  other  productions  of  exotics,  were  exempt  for  ten  years 
from  all  tenths,  and  import  and  export  duties. 

The  garden  where  these  were  placed,  is  situated  about 
eight  miles  from  Rio,  and  the  road  leading  to  it  is  very  de- 
lightful. It  passes  along  the  beautiful  bay  of  Bota  Fogo, 
and  by  the  fine  lake  of  Rodrigo  de  Freitas,  where  one  side 
is  bounded  by  the  magnificent  ridges  of  the  Corcovado,  and 
the  other  by  the  romantic  headlands  of  the  bay  and  lake. 
The  garden  is  a rich  flat,  comprising  about  fifty  acres,  di- 
vided into  compartments  by  avenues  of  exotics,  among 
which  the  Sumatra  nut,  (vernicia  montana ),  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous. It  is  of  rapid  growth,  yields  abundance  of  shade 
with  its  ample  leaves,  and  such  a profusion  of  fruit,  that  the 
walks  were  covered  with  large  nuts,  which  give  an  immense 

* The  mechanical  cause  of  this  is  easily  assigned.  The  first  wave  flows 
evenly  on,  meeting  with  no  obstruction  from  reflux  water ; the  second  is  some- 
what impeded  in  its  advance  by  .the  retiring  current  of  the  first ; and  the  waves 
meeting,  cause  both  to  ascend  into  a ridge  ; but  the  third  and  last  meeting  with 
the  obstruction  of  the  other  two  united,  can  only  force  its  way  by  suddenly  infla- 
ting and  overcoming  the  former,  which  it  does  by  ascending  up  the  mound  it 
raises,  and  tumbles  over  the  other  side,  like  a cataract  rushing  over  a ledge  of 
rocks.  It  is  this  third  wave  that  upsets  boats  passing  the  bars  of  rivers  ; and 
it  was  this  that  battered  down  part  of  the  mound  of  the  Passeio  Publico.  Why 
it  is  always  the  third,  and  not  any  other  number,  it  is  not  easy  to  account  for. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


265 


quantity  of  oil,  for  various  useful  purposes.  Next  in  abun- 
dance, is  the  bread-fruit,  ( artocarpus  incisa),  which  thrives 
with  equal  luxuriance,  bearing  among  its  immense  foliage 
a spherical  fruit,  in  size,  shape,  and  color,  like  pendulous 
loaves  of  bread.  But  the  compartment  most  interesting  is 
the  tea  plantations.  These  occupy  several  square  plots, 
of  about  half  an  acre  each,  but  do  not  seem  to  have  answer- 
ed the  expectations  formed  ofthem.  The  shrubs  are  stunted, 
cankered,  and  moss-grown,  and  the  Chinese,  to  whose  care 
they  were  originally  entrusted,  have  abandoned  them  ; the 
colony  is  dispersed  ; and,  with  the  exception  of  a few,  met 
occasionally  in  the  streets  of  Rio,  none  are  to  be  seen. 

Though  experience  has  proved  how  well  adapted  are  the 
soil  and  climate  of  this  place  for  the  propagation  of  every 
exotic,  and  for  naturalizing  it  in  the  country,  the  wise  and 
beneficial  intentions  of  Bom  John,  seem  not  to  have  been 
carried  into  effect.  No  tea  is  to  be  procured,  either  from 
the  plantations  here,  or  at  Santa  Cruz,  where  it  was  also 
fried  on  an  extensive  scale.  Every  person  is  invited  to  takp 
plants  from  the  garden,  and  the  only  expense  is,  a small 
gratuity  to  the  negroes  of  the  establishment,  for  the  baskets 
they  weave,  in  which  specimens  of  any  kind  are  sent  to  all 
who  apply  for  them.  It  is  called  a botanic  garden,  but  has 
slight  pretensions  to  the  name.  There  are  very  few  of  the 
immense  variety  of  indigenous  plants  to  be  found  here,  and 
not  the  smallest  attempt  is  made  at  classification,  or  scien- 
tific arrangement.  The  garden,  in  fact,  is  little  more  than 
a retreat,  where  people  retire  to,  to  walk  and  take  refresh- 
ment. Our  friends,  Messrs.  Aston  and  Abercrombie,  enter- 
tained their  acquaintances  in  an  edifice  attached  to  it,  and 
which  is  generally  procured  for  the  purpose.  Among  other 
rarities,  our  tea  in  the  evening  was  the  produce  of  the  plan- 
tation here,  and  it  was  the  only  time  when  I,  or  any  of  the 
company,  I believe,  had  tasted  it.  The  sum  of  2,902,000 
reis,  is  annually  allowed  for  its  support. 


•23 


266 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL* 


CHAP.  XXII. 

Theatre  visited  with  a Judgment  for  sacrilegious  Dilapidation  of  Church.— Why  en- 
deared to  Brazilians. — Lotteries.— Post-Office,  Mail,  and  Mode  of  delivering  Let- 
ters— Mistakes  and  Inconveniences. — Corrupt  Administration  of  Justice. One 

Tribunal  not  mercenary. — Curious  Anecdote. — Police,  only  Natives,  seen  intoxi- 
cated, and  generally  arrest  the  wrong  Persons  — Onze  Lettras,  an  Offence  at  Rio, 
why. — Execution  of  Criminals. — Mode  of  saving  their  Lives. — Anecdote. — Fune- 
rals.— Revolting  Mode  of  depositing  the  Body. — Wax  Tapers. 

The  citizens  of  Rio  are  also  very  fond  of  the  opera. 
Some  circumstances  connected  with  it,  however,  greatly 
offended  the  serious.  The  house  was  erected  in  the  Rocio, 
not  far  from  the  Largo  de  Francisco  de  Paula,  where  they 
were  at  the  same  time  building  a large  church.  As  they 
were  in  a great  hurry  to  finish  the  new  theatre,  they  not 
only  stopped  the  building  of  the  church,  but  actually  took 
part  of  it  down,  and  applied  the  materials  towards  complet- 
ing the  other  edifice,  which  was  opened  with  great  pomp  in 
1813,  on  the  12th  of  October,  the  birth-day  of  the  Prince 
of  Beira.  This  sacrilegious  dilapidation  of  a church,  to  finish 
a theatre,  shocked,  as  it  ought,  the  serious  citizens,  and 
they  predicted  some  awful  accident  to  the  unholy  edifice. 
Some  years  after,  it  was  burnt  down,  and  the  good  people 
are  firmly  persuaded  it  was  a judgment,  to  warn  and  chas- 
tise the  impiety  of  the  builders.  The  theatre,  however,  rose 
again,  like  a phoenix  from  its  ashes,  but  the  church  remains 
in  the  same  dilapidated  state,  torn  down  nearly  to  its  foun- 
dation. 

One  circumstance,  nevertheless,  has  endeared  the  opera 
to  the  Brazilians  : it  is  the  place  where  all  the  political  events 
of  the  country,  in  which  they  are  so  deeply  interested,  were 
announced  and  completed  ; and  that  association  alone,  is 
sufficient  to  draw  them  there,  independent  of  good  music 
and  dancing.  The  emperor  is  passionately  fond  of  it,  and 
is  a constant  attendant,  often  with  all  his  children.  He  has 
a large  box,  which  occupies  the  breadth  of  the  building. 
This  is  generally  filled  with  his  chamberlains,  and  other 
officers,  who  stand  behind  him,  while  he  sits  in  front.  The 
enthusiasm,  however,  with  which  he  was  generally  received 
here,  has  passed  away,  and,  whenever  I have  been  present, 
his  entrance  was  never  greeted  with  any  mark  of  applause. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


267 


During  Lent,  the  theatre  is  closed,  and  the  people  are  amused 
with  spectacles  of  a different  kind,  in  the  churches  and 
processions.  The  English  frequently  get  up  plays,  for 
charitable  purposes,  in  the  intervals  of  the  opera. 

The  theatre  is  partly  supported  by  lotteries,  and  the 
irmandades,  of  different  orders,  increase  their  funds  by  the 
same  means  ; so  that  lotteries  are  so  frequent,  as  to  be  al- 
most perpetual  in  Rio.  The  benefits  are,  twelve  per  cent, 
on  the  amount  of  the  tickets,  which  is  usually  about  7,500, 
at  twenty  milreis  each,  of  which  5,000  are  blanks,  and  2,500 
prizes.  The  value  of  the  tickets  is  150,000  milreis,  from 
which  a deduction  of  twelve  percent,  would  produce  18,000 
milreis  for  the  contractors,  leaving  132,000  for  prizes  ; the 
highest  of  which  is  20,000,  and  the  lowest  twenty.  Schemes 
for  these  lotteries,  in  aid  of  funds,  either  for  charity  or 
amusement,  are  every  day  posted  in  the  streets,  or  in  shops, 
and  the  tickets  are  always  soon  disposed  of,  because  the 
prizes  are  always  honorably  paid,  and  there  is  no  instance  of 
any  defalcation,  though  they  are  merely  conducted  on  the 
credit  of  individuals.  Many  of  the  English  speculate,  and 
some  have  gained  considerable  prizes. 

The  post-office  is  held  immediately  under  the  hall  of 
the  chamber  of  deputies,  and  is  part  of  the  same  building. 
The  post  leaves  Rio  every  ten  days,  for  the  different  remote 
places  in  the  interior.  Mail  coaches  are  of  course  un- 
known, but  I have  frequently  met  the  post  on  the  road.  It 
is  carried  by  two  negroes,  with  poles  in  their  hands,  and 
a long  portmanteau  strapped  across  each  of  their  backs. 
They  travel  on  foot,  at  the  rate  of  a league  or  four  miles  an 
hour.  They  proceed  without  any  kind  of  guard,  and  with 
a feeling  of  such  perfect  security,  that  I have  seen  their 
portmanteaus  of  letters  lying  by  the  road  side,  without  any 
one  to  watch  them,  while  they  themselves  had  gone  to  some 
distant  rancho  or  venda  to  get  refreshment,  yet  I never 
heard  that  the  mail  had  been  robbed. 

When  it  arrives  at  the  post-office  in  Rio,  the  letters  are 
not  sent  about,  except  to  mercantile  houses,  which  pay  a 
certain  sum  for  the  advantage  ; other  letters  are  adver- 
tised. The  office  is  a large  hall  on  the  ground  floor,  and 
it  is  hung  round  with  boards,  on  which  are  written  the  names 
of  places  from  which  letters  come,  at  the  head  of  a column  ; 
and  underneath  the  names  of  persons  to  whom  they  are 
addressed.  The  columns  are  numbered  ; and  when  a per- 
son expects  a letter,  he  applies,  not  to  the  office  but  to  the 


268 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


board,  and  if  he  finds  his  name  there,  he  takes  the  number 
opposite  to  it,  which  he  presents  at  the  office  ; and  he  gets, 
not  a letter  directed  to  his  address,  but  one  correspondent 
to  the  number  he  asks  for,  which  is  often  for  another  person. 
When  any  mistake  arises,  and  he  gives  his  name,  a par- 
cel of  letters  is  presented  to  him,  and  he  takes  which  he 
pleases. 

Much  inconvenience  arises  from  this  practice.  Many 
people,  from  curiosity  or  a worse  motive,  take  the  letters 
that  do  not  belong  to  them  ; and  every  day  there  are  ad- 
vertisements in  the  Diario,  from  some  who  could  not  find  a 
packet  they  expected,  or  from  others  who  had  taken  what 
did  not  belong  to  them,  and  requesting  the  owners  to  call 
for  them.  I had  the  curiosity  to  count  the  letters  on  the 
board  lying  to  be  called  for  on  a particular  day,  and  I found 
them  as  follows  : — From  England  and  France,  167  ; Lis- 
bon, 5,860  ; Oporto,  1,166;  Asia,  55;  Bengal,  106; 
Angola,  834  ; Mosambique,  153  ; Fayal,  100  ; Monte  Vi- 
deo, 133  ; Maranhao,  392  ; Campos,  542  ; St.  Paul’s,, 
814;  Swiss  Settlement,  40;  St.  Catherine’s,  203;  Ilha 
Grande,  244  ; Minas  Geraes,  3,630  ;-  Bahia,  1,311  ; Per- 
nambuco, 1,052;  Rio  Grande,  1082  ; Figueira,  1,1 14  ; 
torn  letters,  406  ; total,  18,414. 

The  administration  of  justice  in  Brazil  is  perhaps  the 
greatest  grievance  under  which  the  people  labor  ; and  the 
emperor’s  frightful  picture  of  it,  in  recommending  it  to  the 
consideration  of  the  Chambers,  was  not  exaggerated.  The 
judges  have  but  a small  stipend  of  about  three  hundred  mil- 
reis,  and  they  expend  an  income  of  ten  thousand  ; the 
difference  is  made  up  by  the  most  notorious  and  undisguised 
bribery,  in  which  there  is  no  delicacy  used,  and  little  con- 
cealment practised.  A respectable  merchant  informed  me, 
he  had  just  gained  an  important  but  hopeless  suit,  by  bribing 
the  judge  who  triedit  with  an  English  carriage,  and  he 
was  not  ashamed  to  drive  about  in  this  public  proof  of  his 
corruption. 

There  is  one  tribunal,  however,  to  which  the  people  have 
access,  which  is  above  the  suspicion  of  such  mercenary 
influence,  and  that  is  the  throne  of  the  emperor  himself. 
On  every  Saturday  morning  a public  levee  is  held,  where 
the  humblest  individual  in  society  may  in  person  claim  re- 
dress. The  only  qualification  required  for  admission  is, 
that  the  applicant  shall  come  with  a cocked  hat.  If  he  can- 
not command  one,  he  leaves  such  as  he  has  behind  him  at 


NOTICES  OF  SRAZIL. 


269 


the  door,  and  boldly  approaches  to  the  throne,  where  he  is 
heard  and  redressed. 

Some  very  extraordinary  scenes  take  place  on  these  oc- 
casions. I shall  mention  one  of  the  many  which  I heard. 
A well-known  character,  of  considerable  rank  and  conse- 
quence, had  become  enamoured  of  the  wife  of  a Juiz  da 
Fora,  who  rejected  his  addresses.  Shortly  after,  her  hus- 
band was  assassinated,  and  this  act  was  attributed  to  him, 
who  supposed  her  attachment  to  her  husband  had  stood  in 
the  way  of  his  illicit  suit.  Under  this  impression,  the 
widow  immediately  repaired  to  court  to  seek  redress  at  this 
public  levee.  As  soon  as  she  was  admitted,  she  threw 
herself  at  the  feet  of  Dom  John  VI.,  told  her  story,  and  de- 
manded justice,  which  the  monarch  immediately  promised 
her.  Engaged  at  the  time  in  very  embarrassing  affairs,  the 
king  overlooked  the  circumstance,  and  forgot  his  promise  ; 
when  the  widow  appeared  before  him  again  in  deep  mourning. 
Struck  with  this  circumstance,  he  now  confirmed  his  assur- 
ance with  an  oath,  that  she  should  have  justice  ; but  the  friends 
of  the  accused  being  at  that,  time  about  the  person  of  the 
king,  it  is  supposed  his  attention  was  again  turned  purpose- 
ly from  the  subject.  A third  time  the  widow  appeared, 
and  taking  from  under  her  veil  a shroud,  she  displayed  and 
shook  it  before  him,  told  him,  in  the  bitterest  language,  he 
must  soon  come  to  wear  it,  and  bade  him  call  to  mind  what 
was  the  punishment  reserved  in  the  next  world  for  perjured 
sovereigns,  who  denied  justice  to  their  subjects.  The  well- 
meaning,  but  timid  monarch,  was  deeply  affected  by  this 
denunciation,  and  in  great  horror  of  mind,  assured  her  of 
immediate  redress  ; but  the  widow  died  in  a very  short 
time  after,  Dom  John  was  recalled  to  Portugal,  and  the  af- 
fair was  never  investigated. 

The  police  are  a large  body  dressed  like  soldiers,  with 
blue  jackets  and  cross  belts  of  buff  leather,  and  resemble 
exactly  the  gendarmes  of  France.  They  are  not  distin- 
guished either  for  temperance  or  proper  conduct,  and  they 
are  the  only  natives  I ever  saw  drunk.  If  an  outrage  is 
committed,  they  seize,  not  the  man  who  perpetrated  it,  who 
generally  has  time  to  escape,  but  the  person  they  find 
nearest  the  spot,  who  is  only  accidentally  passing.  A man 
was  ridden  over  bv  a horse  just  at  our  door,  and  brought 
into  the  hall  in  a dangerous  state.  The  police  came  up 
and  seized  a gentlemanly  person  who  was  walking  by  at 
the  time.  It  was  in  vain  he  pleaded  he  could  not  ride  over 
23* 


270 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


the  man,  for  he  had  no  horse.  He  was,  nevertheless,  drag- 
ged off  to  the  police-house. 

Some  curious  circumstances  attend  the  execution  of  a 
criminal  here.  When  he  is  condemned,  he  is  taken  under 
the  protection  of  the  irmandade  of  the  Misericordia,  and 
placed  by  them  in  a capella  for  three  days,  where  he  is  visited 
by  persons  who  provide  all  comforts  and  conveniences  for 
his  unfortunate  situation  ; and  among  other  things,  they 
prepare  for  him  a shirt.  The  number  eleven  is  a proverbi- 
al offence,  when  applied  to  an  individual,  both  at  Lisbon 
and  Rio.  At  the  former,  to  say  of  another,  he  is  a man  de 
onze  lettras,  is  an  insult,  because  the  name  of  a very  odious 
character  is  spelled  with  eleven  letters.  At  the  latter,  it 
is  equally  offensive  so  say,  he  is  a man  de  onze  varas,  u of 
eleven  ells,”  as  it  implies  a man  condemned  to  an  ignomin- 
ious death  ; the  last  preparation  for  which  is,  putting  on 
his  shroud  or  shirt  of  eleven  yards.  The  irmandade  also 
provide  the  cord  by  which  he  is  executed.  This  last  they 
sometimes  immerse  in  some  strong  acid,  by  which  it  is  cor- 
roded, and  rendered  so  incapable  of  supporting  a weight, 
that  it  frequently  breaks  before  the  criminal  is  dead. 
When  this  happens,  they  step  in,  wave  a standard  over  the 
body,  and  claim  it  as  their  right.  This  is  admitted,  and 
they  are  allowed  to  bear  it  away,  and  so  frequently  restore 
suspended  animation. 

There  are  many  persons  in  Rio,  who  realize  a consider- 
able income  by  taming  refractory  slaves.  A shoemaker  of 
this  class  lately  purchased  two.  He  was  a man  of  the  most 
unrelenting  severity,  and  treated  them  so  cruelly,  that  they 
fell  on  him  one  evening  in  his  shop,  with  their  knives,  and 
killed  him.  There  was  something  in  the  affair,  that  inter- 
ested the  irmandade  to  so  great  a degree,  that  in  a fit  of 
mistaken  mercy,  they  offered  the  widow  eight  contos,  if 
she  would  not  prosecute  the  slaves.  The  attachment  of 
women  in  Brazil  to  the  memory  of  their  husbands  is  prover- 
bially strong  ; so  she  rejected  every  offer,  and  surrendered 
the  assassins  to  justice.  In  all  executions,  it  is  the  practice 
for  the  executioner  to  stand  on  the  ladder  above  the  crimi- 
nal ; and  when  the  clergyman  comes  to  the  sentence  in  the 
creed,  u I believe  in  Jesus  Christ,”  the  ladder  is  turned, 
the  hangman  leaps  on  the  culprit’s  neck,  and  they  swing 
off  together.  On  this  occasion  the  rope,  which  had  been 
previously  prepared,  immediately  broke  with  the  double 
weight,  and  they  both  fell  to  the  ground.  The  irmandade 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


271 


now  stepped  in,  waved  their  flag,  an(J  demanded  the  body. 
The  juiz,  who  presided,  was  a determined  man  ; he  told 
them  to  take  the  body  if  they  pleased,  as  it  was  their  right, 
but  first  he  would  order  the  head  and  hands  to  be  chopped 
off.  As  this  would  totally  defeat  their  object,  they  declined 
removing  the  man  ; and  he  was  again  hanged  up,  taken 
down  apparently  dead,  and  lay  beside  the  gallows,  while 
the  sentence  of  the  law  was  executed  on  his  companion  ; 
but  before  this  was  concluded,  animation  returned,  and  he 
was  observed  to  kick  and  struggle  on  the  ground.  He  was 
again,  therefore,  tied  up  till  life  was  entirely  extinct  ; and 
is  perhaps  the  only  person  on  record,  who  was  thus  exe- 
cuted three  times  for  the  same  offence. 

The  Brazilians  were  greatly  shocked  at  this  ; and  when  the 
widow,  who  was  reduced  to  poverty  by  her  husband’s  death, 
went  to  solicit  alms  to  purchase  prayers  for  the  repose  of  his 
soul,  she  was  very  coldly  received  by  every  one.  They 
forgot  her  disinterestedness,  in  refusing  a large  sum  to 
compromise  the  murder  of  her  husband,  and  they  only  re- 
membered her  unchristian  feeling  of  revenge,  they  said,  on 
his  murderers. 

Funerals  are  among  the  most  pompous  and  gaudy  dis- 
plays of  the  people.  Those  of  the  better  class  are  always 
conducted  by  night,  by  the  light  of  large  wax  tapers, 
the  size  of  flambeaux.  These  are  borne  not  only  by  the 
friends  of  the  deceased,  but  by  any  passing  stranger  of  re- 
spectable appearance.  For  this  purpose,  one  of  the  con- 
ductors generally  stands  at  the  door  of  the  house  in  which 
the  corpse  lies,  and  invites  the  passenger  to  come  in  and 
take  a taper.  Every  week,  at  least,  I have  been  in  this 
way  arrested  as  I passed  by,  and  as  it  is  deemed  not  good 
manners  to  refuse,  I latterly  learned  to  pass  over  to  the 
other  side,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  either  complying  or 
declining. 

The  coffin  is  carried  before,  and  the  taper-bearers  fol- 
low in  a long  procession  behind  to  the  church,  where  the 
funeral  service  is  read.  It  is  there  laid  on  a catafalk,  or  pe- 
destal, which  stands  for  that  purpose  in  the  middle  of  every 
aisle  : priests  attend,  who  chant  the  funeral  service,  ac- 
companied by  the  organ  ; and  when  this  is  concluded,  either 
the  flooring  of  the  church  is  raised  and  the  body  deposited 
beneath,  or  it  is  brought  to  the  cloisters,  where  a small  re- 
ceptacle, like  an  oven,  is  opened  to  receive  it.  Before  it 
is  so  deposited,  the  lid  of  the  coffin  is  raised,  and  a quan- 


272 


NOTICE^  OF  BRAZIL. 


tity  of  quick-lime  thrown  in  ; and  when  it  is  decomposed  by 
this  process,  the  bones  are  shut  in  with  a lock  and  key. 
Notwithstanding  their  preservation  of  the  bones  of  the 
dead,  the  people  are  remarkably  careless  of  the  remains  of 
their  deceased  friends.  Their  only  concern  is,  that  they 
shall  receive  the  last  rites  of  their  church,  which  they  con- 
sider indispensable  to  the  welfare  of  their  souls.  Few  or 
no  relations  are  present  at  the  interment  ; and  there  is 
a great  indifference,  amounting  to  levity,  not  only  among 
the  acquaintance  who  attend  the  funeral,  but  among  the 
clergy  themselves. 

On  some  occasions  of  the  funerals  of  infants,  the  coffin 
is  an  elegant  embroidered  trunk,  in  which  the  child  lies  en- 
veloped in  artificial  flowers  ; and  whemplaced  on  the  cata- 
falk,  it  looks  like  a work-box  on  a lady’s  dressing  table.  The 
cloisters  where  they  are  deposited  are  remarkably  dry  and 
neat,  kepi  always  fresh  with  paint  and  whitewash,  and  gen- 
erally in  a pretty  garden  embellished  with  parterres  and  aro- 
matic flowering  shrubs  ; so  that  the  charnel-house  is  divest- 
ed of  everything  offensive  or  even  dismal,  and  redolent  with 
incense  and  perfumes. 

The  gaiety  of  this  is  strongly  contrasted  with  the  funerals 
of  negroes.  Their  naked  bodies  are  met  every  day,  thrown 
into  an  old  mat  suspended  on  a pole  between  two  others, 
their  arms  and  legs  often  hanging  down  and  trailing  on  the 
ground.  They  are  brought  in  this  way  to  the  large  ceme- 
tery attached  to  the  Misericordia  Hospital  ; and  here  they 
are  thrown  into  a long  trench,  where  I have  seen  ten  or 
twelve  bodies  lying  in  a heap  without  any  covering  of  earth 
yet  thrown  on  them. 

When  the  person  is  deposited  under  the  flooring  of  the 
church,  a very  offensive  spectacle  is  often  exhibited.  The 
ground  is  so  crammed  that  it  is  impossible  to  find  room,  and 
the  aperture  made  is  not  sufficient  to  contain  it  ; so  that 
when  the  naked  corpse  is  laid  down,  part  of  it  is  often  seen 
rising  above  the  ground.  A man  then  takes  a rammer,  like 
a pavior’s,  and  deliberately  pounds  the  body  into  a flat  mass, 
till  it  is  accommodated  to  its  situation  ; while  all  the  people 
look  on  with  the  most  perfect  indifference.  It  is  true  that 
it  is  divested  of  all  feeling,  as  a Brazilian  sensibly  remarked 
to  me  when  I mentioned  the  circumstance,  and  deserves  to 
be  held  ih  no  more  estimation  than  the  clay  with  which  it 
is  about  to  incorporate.  But  certainly  the  spectacle  is  very 
revolting,  and  the  odor  dangerously  offensive  ; and  many 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


273 


people  are  compelled  to  leave  the  church  from  a sense  of 
sickness.  In  some  churches,  as  I have  before  mentioned, 
the  toes  and  foreheads  protrude  above  the  ground. 

The  provision  of  wax  tapers  for  the  friends  of  the  deceas- 
ed is  so  essential,  that  frequent  advertisements  appear  in 
the  journals,  apologizing  for  there  not  being  enough  to  ac- 
commodate all  who  came.  In  the  a Journal  de  Commer- 
cio,”  of  the  15th  November,  1828,  I saw  a notice  from  a 
Joao  Bernardo  Neguero,  importing,  that  u being  obliged  to 
bury  his  grandfather,  Major  Antonio  Ramos,  he  had  invited 
various  persons  to  attend  the  funeral,  and  was  greatly  con- 
cerned to  find  that  tapers  had  not  been  provided  for  them 
all.  This  neglect  was  to  be  attributed  to  the  Andador  of 
Santa  Rita,  who  had  agreed  to  furnish  them  ; and  he  had 
no  doubt  that  the  same  Andador  had  every  wish  to  do  so  ; 
but  as  he  had  buried  a monkey  a few  days  before,  by  taper 
light,  in  consecrated  ground,  he  had  consumed  all  the  wax, 
and  so  had  disappointed  his  friends.” 


CHAP.  XXIII. 

Supply  of  Water  from  Corcovado.- — -Ascend,  it  with  some  Friends.— Cataract  and 
Aqueduct. — Carioca,  and  old  Inscription. — Name  given  to  Brazilian  Cockneys. — 
Commotion  among  the  Black  Water  Carriers. — -Fountain  of  the  Mareccas. — An- 
other Supply  from  Tijuca,  visit  it  with  a Friend. — Chalybeate  Well. — Magnificent 
Cataracts. — Water  conveyed  to  Xafariz,  in  the  Campo  de  Sta.  Anna. — City  re- 
quires further  Supply. — Meat  at  Public  Matanqa. — Prejudice  against  Mutton. — 
Extraordinary  Use  of  it  on  the  Rio  de  la  Plata. — Fish. — Rumors  of  an  enormous 
and  voracious  Kind  in  the  Bay. — Excellent  Pao  de  Trigo,  or  wheaten  Bj-ead. — Man- 
dioca  and  Feijao. — Mindoubi  and  Fedagosa. — Berries  of  three  Kinds  of  Myrtle. — - 
Other  Fruits. — Capsule  of  the  Passion-Flower. — Bananas  and  Catalonian  Wine. — 
Caxas,  or  Cachaga,  a Kind  of  Rum. 

The  most  conspicuous  object  seen  from  all  parts  of  Rio 
and  the  neighborhood,  is  the  Corcovado  mountain,  not  less 
striking  for  the  magnificent  singularity  of  its  appearance, 
than  for  its  importance  and  utility  to  the  citizens.  It  is  the 
great  reservoir  which  supplies  them  with  water.  I visited 
this  mountain  with  a party  of  friends,  among  whom  were 
Captain  King,  of  the  Adventure  discovery  ship,  just  return- 
ed from  surveying  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  and  Captain 
Fitzroy.  We  began  to  ascend  from  the  Laranjeira,  and 


274 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


proceeded  up  the  very  steep  sides,  through  primeval  woods, 
which  never  have  been  cut  down.  From  this  belt  of  forests 
the  peaked  summit  emerges,  rude  and  bare,  where  vegeta- 
tion had  ceased,  and  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a stunted 
cactus  issuing  from  a fissure.  The  peak  is  rent  by  a deep 
chasm,  and,  as  a flag-staff  set  up  here  had  been  splintered 
by  lightning,  it  is  supposed  that  the  same  cause  had  rifted 
the  rock.  On  this  wild  eminence  a guard-house  had  been 
erected,  and  the  chasm  passed  by  a wooden  bridge.  It  was 
intended  as  a police  station  to  hunt  out  fugitive  slaves,  who 
took  refuge  in  this  formerly  inaccessible  mountain,  but  it  is 
now  abandoned  and  fallen  into  decay.  Captain  Fitzrov 
had  climbed  up  here  the  night  before,  and  taken  observa- 
tions, while  similar  ones  were  made  below  by  Captain  King, 
and  the  result  of  them  was,  that  the  highest  point  is  2,329 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  vapors  raised  from  the  Atlantic,  as  they  float  along, 
are  intercepted  by  this  lofty  peak,  round  which  they  collect 
and  congregate  in  the  form  of  dense  mists,  during  the  great- 
er part  of  the  year,  and  descend  in  numerous  rills  down  the 
sides,  particularly  on  the  north,  or  that  which  faces  Rio. 
Here  they  unite  into  a considerable  torrent,  which  bursts 
from  the  masses  of  wood,  which  had  hitherto  concealed  it, 
into  light,  and  tumbles  with  a copious  cataract  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a ridge  of  lower  hills,  about  three  miles  from  the  city. 
The  water  comes  down  pure,  limpid,  and  cold,  over  a ledge 
of  granite  rock,  in  a broad  sheet,  into  a natural  reservoir  ; 
and,  from  hence,  in  the  year  1719,  it  was  led  by  an  aque- 
duct, constructed  by  Albuquerque,  the  captain-general  of 
the  province,  along  the  ridge,  to  the  convent  of  Santa  There- 
sa. Nothing  can  be  conceived  more  picturesque  and  beau- 
tiful, than  the  road  formed  to  conduct  this  water.  It  is  a 
green  level  avenue  of  considerable  breadth,  winding  its 
way  through  primeval  woods  over  the  before  inaccessible 
ridges,  on  the  summit  level  of  these  romantic  hills,  forming 
in  different  places  artificial  terraces  and  platforms  ; whence 
the  traveller  looks  down  from  his  airy  height,  on  each  side 
of  him,  on  some  of  the  most  lovely  views  in  nature.  Beside 
him  is  the  water  gurgling  along  in  its  stony  channel,  covered 
above,  but  open  at  intervals,  to  afford  him  the  means  of 
using  it  ; here  fie-sees  it  eddying  in  broad  granite  reservoirs, 
presenting  the  most  cool  and  refreshing  object  that  can  be 
conceived.  Near  Santa  Theresa,  where  I often  climbed 
to  take  a morning  or  evening  walk,  is  one  of  these  artificial 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


275 


terraces  : it  passes  a valley  which  opens  to  the  sea,  and 
looks  down  on  a part  of  the  city  ; and  I believe  I may  say, 
without  exaggeration,  that  there  is  not  in  the  world  so  noble 
a combination  of  art  and  nature,  as  the  prospect  it  presents. 

From  hence,  over  a magnificent  arcade,  the  water  is  con- 
ducted across  the  valley  to  +he  opposite  hill  of  S.  Antonio. 
This  arcade  was  completed  in  1750,  by  order  of  John  V., 
by  Gomez  Andrade,  captain-general  of  the  province.  It  is 
constructed  of  two  ranges  of  arches,  which  rise  from  the 
ground,  one  over  the  other,  to  the  height  of  eighty  palms  ; 
the  lower  extends  to  the  length  of  100,  but  the  upper  140 
fathoms,  and  consists  of  fortytwo  arches.  On  the  latter 
range  the  aqueduct  is  formed,  conveying  the  water  to  the 
opposite  hill,  whence  it  descends  to  the  lower  parts  of  the 
city.  It  is  first  received  into  a reservoir  in  the  form  of  a 
tower,  which  communicates  with  a fountain  in  the  largo  or 
square  of  the  Carioca. 

This  fountain  is  a semicircular  edifice,  approached  by  five 
steps,  having  eleven  brass  pipes  in  front,  from  which  the 
water  is  constantly  pouring.  The  surplus  runs  off,  and  is 
received  in  a large  tank  of  hewn  stone,  where  horses  drink, 
and  black  women  wash  clothes.  On  a icJ^Jet  in  front  is  the 
following  inscription,*  the  oldest,  perhaps,  to  w met  with  in 
the  country,  and  affording  a specimen  of  the  rude,  and  al- 
most occult,  mode  of  writing  a century  ago  in  Brazil  : 


l|EMD0  QA-TO  ePoDROSoREDlOAO  OV/ 
ESEMJO  OORCAP 

2 SALS'  NHAEABVQ^CfPORmPRECAOSSI 
ESXORI^<^PiUirclPl®YKO^i(0DV7^  ESEA 
CABOVNOAiWODEiySS 


The  traits  of  Brazilian  manners,  which  occur  at  this  foun- 
tain, are,  perhaps,  more  striking  to  a stranger,  than  any 


* “ In  the  reign  of  the  high  and  powerful  King  Dom  John  the  Fifth,  Ayres 
de  Saldanha  and  Albuquerque,  being  governor  and  captain-general  of  this  place, 
by  his  directions  this  work  was  made,  which  was  begun  in  the  year  1719,  and 
completed  in  the  year  1723.” 


276 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


others  which  present  themselves  in  Brazil ; and  convey 
such  an  idea  of  peculiarity,  that  the  term  Carioca  is  applied 
to  a citizen  of  Rio  in  the  same  sense  as  cockney  to  a citizen 
of  London.  Vast  numbers  of  blacks  of  both  sexes  are  em- 
ployed, either  in  carrying  water,  or  washing  clothes  ; and 
this  is  their  great  point  of  assembling.  On  one  side,  rang- 
ed along  the  wall,  are  three  or  four  rows  of  men  sitting  on 
their  cans,  with  two  or  three  police-men  shaking  scourges 
over  them  to  keep  them  in  order  ; nearer  to  the  fountain 
are  two  or  three  more,  in  the  same  position,  sitting  in  a large 
semicircle  ; on  the  steps  of  the  fountain  is  a crowd,  with 
cans,  scrambling  to  get  at  the  pipes.  As  their  cans  are 
filled,  and  they  leave  vacancies,  the  police-men  scourge  up 
a range  of  the  sitters  to  supply  their  place,  which  in  turn  is 
closed  up  by  those  behind,  and  so  a constant  movement  goes 
on.  The  tank  at  the  other  side  is  filled  with  women  of  all 
colors  washing  clothes,  standing  in  the  water  nearly  up  to 
their  hips,  and  their  garments  tucked  about  their  waists  ; 
the  greater  number  with  black  or  tawny  pickaninnies  strap- 
ped to  their  backs.  Occasionally  droves  of  horses  and 
mules  come  up  and  thyust  their  heads  among  them.  In  the 
middle  of  the  sqi^re  is  a whipping-post,  to  which  some  re- 
fractory merger  is  tied  and  punished  ; and  round  about  are 
vendas  and  stalls,  where  fish,  flesh,  and  fruit,  of  a quality 
not  very  agreeable  to  look  at,  are  sold  for  the  lower  classes, 
who  constantly  crowd  the  place,  mixed  with  the  blacks. 

Notwithstanding  the  vigilance  and  severity  of  the  police, 
frequent  commotions  take  place  here  from  some  trifling, 
momentary  cause.  I was  one  day  looking  down  on  this 
extraordinary  scene  from  the  convent  of  S.  Antonio,  when 
suddenly  the  whole  square  was  in  a state  of  insurrection  ; 
the  men  tossing  their  cans,  the  women  splashing  the  water, 
and  the  police  exercising  their  whips,  and  all  scrambling, 
shouting,  screaming,  and  laughing,  with  the  most  extraor- 
dinary confusion  ; while  the  odor  exhaled  from  such  a 
surface  of  perspiring  bodies,  in  a state  of  excitement  on  a 
wet  day,  sent  up  to  us  a smoaking  incense  that  was  quite 
intolerable.  ■ It  was  in  this  place  the  Irish  were  attacked 
by  the  black  and  white  rabble,  as  they  were  marching  quiet- 
ly through  the  square,  which  was  one  cause  of  the  distur- 
bance that  alarmed  the  empire. 

Not  far  from  the  Carioca,  in  the  Rua  dos  Barbonos,  is 
another  fountain  supplied  from  the  same  source,  called  the 
Mareccas,  because  the  water  issues  from  brass  pipes  in  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


277 


form  of  a sea-fowl,  so  named  by  the  Brazilians.  It  stands 
opposite  a good  wide  street,  which  leads  to  the  Passio  Pub- 
lico, and  presents  at  one  end  the  pleasing  view  of  the  public 
gardens,  and  at  the  other  this  ornamental  fountain.  It  is 
in  the  new  part  of  the  town,  and  affords  a proof  of  improve- 
ment in  the  construction  of  streets,  compared  with  the  old. 
The  whole  of  this  space  was  a pestiferous  marsh,  till  it  was 
filled  up  and  rendered  habitable  'by  the  indefatigable  Vas- 
concellos,  in  the  year  1785,  as  appears  by  these  words  in 
the  inscription  on  the  fountain  : — u pestifero  quondam  ex- 

SICCATO  LACU,  ET  AMBULATIONIS  FORMA  REDACTO,  INGENTI 
MURO  MARINIS  AQUIS  PROPULSIS,  FONTANIS  INDUCTIS  VO- 
MENTI  2ERE.,J 

Besides  these,  there  is  a large  fountain  in  the  palace 
square,  close  on  the  water,  one  in  the  Mata  Cavallos,  and 
two  in  the  Catete  street,  constructed  by  the  Marquez  Liv- 
radio,  which  the  citizens  of  Rio  commemorate  by  a classi- 
cal inscription,  concluding  with  the  words  a senatvs  po- 

PULVSQ,  : SEBASTIONOPOLIS.” 

But  when  the  arrival  of  the  court  had  brought  such  an 
accession  of  people  to  the  town,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
increase  the  supply  of  water  from  another  source.  Besides 
the  waterfall  from  the  Corcovado,  there  are  two  from  the 
Tijuca,  another  mountain  range,  about  eight  or  nine  miles 
from  the  city,  which  I also  visited  with  a friend.  We  pro- 
ceeded through  Mato  Porcos,  beyond  which  the  road  sud- 
denly terminated,  at  a point  which  the  bolleros  from  the 
city  will  not  pass.  From  hence  the  road  was  rugged  and 
mountainous.  As  the  emperor  was  one  day  riding  along  it, 
he  perceived  a ferruginous  appearance  staining  the  rock, 
over  which  a stream  trickled.  He  immediately  alighted,  ex- 
amined it,  and  found  it  a strong  chalybeate,  which  on  trial 
was  proved  to  possess  the  medicinal  virtues  of  its  class  of 
waters.  He  therefore  caused  a reservoir  to  be  formed, 
and  a neat  edifice  erected  over  it  with  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : * — 

« FONTE  D’AGOA  FERREA  DESCOBERTO  PELO  IMPERADOR 
PEDRO  Imo.  EM.  24  DECEMBRO  DE  1823.” 

This  is  open  to  the  public,  and  occasionally  frequented 
by  invalids,  but  more  usually  the  water  is  bottled  and  sent 
to  Rio.  On  applying  some  tests,  I found  it  very  strong  ; a 


* “ Fountairfof  chalybeate  water,  discovered  by  the  Emperor  Pedro  I.  24th 
December,  1823.” 


24 


278 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


dense  scum  covered  the  surface,  and  a thick  ferruginous 
crust  was  deposited  wherever  it  passed. 

Ascending  from  hence  to  the  summit  of  the  gorge,  the 
scene  was  very  magnificent  ; on  one  side  was  the  bay 
which  we  had  left,  and  on  the  other  the  broad  Atlantic. 
The  steep  valley  leading  to  it,  was  full  of  enormous  bould- 
ers of  granite  as  large  as  churches,  but  perfectly  spherical, 
like  stones  upon  a beach,  the  angles  rubbed  off*  evidently 
from  the  same  cause,  mutual  attrition.  What  a sublime 
and  awful  conception  does  such  an  appearance  give  of  the 
convulsions  of  nature,  when  the  mountain  masses  were  hurl- 
ed down,  and  rolled  about  by  the  undulations  of  the  water, 
as  if  they  had  been  pebbles  in  the  bed  of  a river. 

Over  this  wild  glen  the  Tijuca  impends  1750  feet  high, 
and  sends  down  two  cascades.  One  tumbles  over  a broad 
ledge,  and  finally  discharges  itself  through  a lake  into  the 
Atlantic  ocean.  Beside  this  waterfall,  are  still  seen  the  re- 
mains of  shrines  and  cells,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
Brazilian  ecclesiastics  when  they  took  refuge  in  this  solitary 
spot  from  the  French,  under  Du  Guay  Truim,  in  1711. 
The  other  cataract  falls  in  an  opposite  direction,  and  forms 
the  river  Maracanan,  which  runs  into  the  bay  near  S. 
Christovao.  This  is  perhaps  one  of  the  highest  and  most 
beautiful  in  South  America.  The  whole  river,  running 
along  the  mountain  above,  arrives  at  the  almost  perpendic- 
ular face  of  the  rock,  over  which  it  shoots  like  water  from 
the  eaves  of  a house,  scarcely  touching  the  surface  of  the 
fall.  Its  height  is  estimated  at  fifty  braqas,  or  300  feet  ; 
and  when  you  stand  nearly  under  it  and  look  up,  it  is  really 
a magnificent  spectacle.  The  spray  that  is  ejected  from  it, 
forms  a shower  like  that  at  Niagara  ; and  in  particular  po- 
sitions of  the  sun,  displays  beautiful  rainbows.  The  valley 
into  which  it  falls  is  a deep  sequestered  glen,  and  every 
natural  accessory  to  it  is  in  keeping  with  its  sublime  and 
beautiful  character.  A French  artist,  struck  with  its  fea- 
tures, built  a dwelling  house  on  the  flat  sward,  close  under 
the  fall,  and  added  a profusion  of  roses  and  other  cultivated 
shrubs  to  the  wild  vegetation  of  the  place  ; but  the  utter 
solitude  soon  subdued  his  enthusiasm,  and  the  lively  pro- 
prietor speedily  abandoned  it  for  the  busy  haunts  at  Rio. 

It  is  from  this  beautiful  waterfall  that  a second  supply  of 
water  is  brought  to  the  city  by  the  river  Maracanan.  In 
the  year  1809,  the  first  stream  was  conducted  from  this  by 
wooden  pipes  by  the  direction  of  the  king  ; but  an  aqueduct 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


279 


to  convey,  and  a large  fountain,  called  Xafariz,  to  receive 
the  water  in  the  Campo  de  S.  Anna,  were  then  begun. 
They  took  nine  years  to  complete  them  ; and  on  the  24th 
of  June,  1818,  when  all  was  ready,  the  worthy  monarch, 
with  all  his  family,  attended  to  see  the  completion  of  his  be- 
nevolent and  useful  work.  The  fountain,  as  soon  as  he 
arrived,  was  set  flowing  from  twentytwo  brazen  spouts  ; and 
he  saw  with  delight  all  the  people  run  to  drink  of  it,  as  a 
new  and  extraordinary  luxury  brought  to  this  distant  part  of 
the  town. 

Notwithstanding  those  numerous  fountains,  the  increase 
of  the  city  again  demands  an  additional  supply,  of  this  most 
necessary  article  for  the  support  of  human  life.  On  our 
arrival  at  Rio  there  had  been  a long  period  of  dry  weather, 
the  water  had  become  very  scarce,  and  not  only  deficient  in 
quantity,  but  deteriorated  in  quality.  Instead  of  the  pure 
and  limpid  element  which  descended  from  the  mountain,  it 
was  turbid,  dirty,  foetid,  and  full  of  insects  ; and  even  this 
was  so  dear  as  to  be  almost  inaccessible  to  the  poor.  Hap- 
pily, the  rainy  season  set  in  soon  after,  and  the  supply  was 
profuse  ; but  the  possibility  of  a continuance  of  hot  weather 
dryrag  -^p  the  present  sources,  greatly  alarmed  the  people  ; 
and  they  talked  of  excavating  reservoirs  and  building  more 
fountains.  Among  the  improvements  which  will  at  no  dis- 
tant time  take  place,  is  the  conveyance  of  water  by  pipes  to 
the  different  houses,  which  this  great  command  of  elevation 
would  enable  them  easily  to  do.  The  water,  as  itife  at  pre- 
sent conveyed  by  negroes,  is  singularly  offensive.  It  is 
impregnated  with  the  perspiration  that  streams  from  their 
naked  bodies,  and  they  constantly  thrust  their  hands  and 
arms  in  the  bottom  of  their  cans  for  any  purpose  ; and  the 
water  there  has  always  a foul  look  and  a bad  odor. 

The  supply  of  food  is  abundant  and  constant  . Herds  of 
black  cattle  continually  come  from  the  interior,  and  are  dri- 
ven to  the  Coral,  a large  open  space  on  the  Praya  de  Lu- 
zia,  close  on  the  sea  shore.  Beside  this,  are  erected  the 
matancas,  or  public  slaughter-houses,  where  they  are  kill- 
ed, and  then  conveyed  on  negroes’  heads  to  different  stalls 
in  the  city.  The  most  disagreeable  spectacle  I have  ever 
witnessed,  is  one  of  these  negro  butchers  with  a greasy  rag 
round  his  waist,  and  his  naked  body,  covered  with  blood  and 
gore,  perspiring  under  a raw  carcass.  This  Coral  is  not  far 
from  the  public  gardens,  and  situated  on  a delightful  walk 
along  the  sea  shore  ; but  the  sight  and  smell  of  everything 


280 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


about  it  are  so  offensive,  that  few  venture  to  pass  it.  The 
beef  is  sometimes  cut  into  long  flakes  and  dried  ; and  in  that 
state  called  carne  secco.  When  hanging  in  vendas  it  looks 
like  hides  of  leather. 

Mutton  is  never  seen  in  the  markets  of  Rio.  It  is  a meat 
to  which  the  Brazilians  seem  to  have  as  great  a prejudice, 
as  Jews  to  pork.  When  sheep  were  first  imported  into 
South  America,  in  the  temperate  southern  regions,  they 
extensively  multiplied,  and  became  wild  ; but  in  Brazil  they 
greatly  deteriorated.  The  wool  lost  its  fleeciness,  and  be- 
came stiff  and  wiry,  like  the  hair  of  old  goats.  How  far  this 
unnatural  change  might  have  affected  the  people,  I cannot 
say  ; but  they  do  not  eat  the  sheep,  and  will  not  rear  them. 
Beyond  the  serra  of  Martiqueira,  are  the  most  extensive  and 
beautiful  downs  in  the  world,  covered  with  pasture  like  those 
of  Sussex,  and  in  a temperate  region  ; but  there  is  not  to 
be  seen  on  them  a single  sheep.  Towards  the  Rio  de  la 
Plata,  on  the  spacious  plains,  where  they  have  greatly  in- 
creased, I have  been  informed  they  apply  them  to  an  extra- 
ordinary use.  Fuel  is  very  scarce,  and  mutton  very  plen- 
tiful, so  they  throw  sheep  into  the  kilns  as  a material  to  b?'rn 
bricks.  It  was  formerly  not  unusual  to  drive  sheep  alive 
into  a lime-kiln  ; but  an  edict  was  made  against  this  cruel 
practice,  which  is  still  in  force.  u I tell  you  the  tale  as 
’t  was  told  to  me,”  by  several  people  ; and  on  inquiry  into 
the  truth  of  it,  from  a gentleman  who  had  lately  come  from 
that  country,  and  whose  veracity  I could  not  doubt,  he  in- 
formed me,  that  he  had  actually  seen  a man  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  throw  a shoulder  of  mutton  as  fuel  on  the  top  of  the 
fire.  Mutton,  however,  is  sometimes  purchased  at  Rio  by 
Europeans  ; for  whose  use  alone  it  is  killed.  It  is  very  bad. 
It  is  necessary  to  bespeak  it  expressly  from  a butcher,  who 
charges  one  patac  five  vintems,  or  about  Is.  8 d.  per  pound 
for  it,  if  at  all  eatable. 

Pork,  on  the  contrary,  is  the  great  food  of  the  people, 
and  it  is  plentiful  and  very  good.  It  is  prepared  and  eaten 
in  a peculiar  way.  When  the  pig  is  killed,  the  butcher 
dexterously  scoops  out  the  bones  and  muscular  flesh,  leav- 
ing behind  only  the  covering  of  fat.  In  this  state  it  is 
salted,  folded  up,  and  sent  in  great  quantities  to  Rio,  where 
it  is  called  toucinho.  All  the  stores  and  vendas  are  full  of 
it ; and  it  is  used  commonly  for  culinary  purposes,  and 
forms  an  ingredient  in  every  Brazilian  article  of  cookery. 

Fish  is  in  plenty,  but  not  remakable.  Prawns  are  very 


NOTICES  or  BRAZIL. 


281 


large,  resembling  young  lobsters.  Oysters  are  misshapen, 
long  and  deep,  with  a very  thick  shell.  Their  quality  is 
dangerous,  and  a very  small  quantity,  even  a single  fish, 
produces  on  strangers  a violent  cathartic  effect.  Red  mul- 
lets are  abundant  and  very  good.  There  is  a species  of 
gurnet,  ( trygla  evolans J,  with  enormous  pectoral  fins  as  long 
as  its  body,  and  larger  in  proportion  than  those  of  a flying- 
fish  ; though  I do  not  find  they  ever  use  them  as  wings.  I 
have  frequently  seen  them  taken  out  of  the  sea,  just  before 
our  windows.  Dried  cod,  from  Newfoundland,  is  the  con- 
stant food  during  Lent.  Among  the  fish  peculiar  to  the 
harbor,  there  is  one  of  which  I have  heard  extraordinary 
stories.  It  is  called  a mara.  When  young  it  is  eaten  as 
good  food  ; but  when  old  it  attains  an  enormous  size  and  a 
fearful  voracity  ; insomuch  that  the  monks  of  Sam  Bento 
formerly  paid  a large  sum  of  money,  for  every  one  destroy- 
ed. Col.  Cunningham  informed  me,  that  about  sixteen 
years  ago,  he  remembered  that  three  persons  were  devour- 
ed by  it  in  different  parts  of  the  bay  ; one  was  taken,  im- 
mediately after  destroying  a man,  on  the  shore  of  Praya 
Grande,  and  was  then  exhibited  at  the  custom-house.  It 
required  ten  men,  he  said,  to  carry  it  ; and  it  was  covered 
with  scales  as  large  as  a dollar.  I could  not  learn  that  it 
had  been  latterly  seen  by  any  person  ; but  the  rumor  of 
its  existence  still  deters  persons  from  bathing.  The  blacks, 
who  are  elsewhere  amphibious,  never  venture  beyond  their 
knees  ; and  white  men  are  very  rarely  seen  in  the  water. 
Sharks  are  not  dreaded  in  the  bay. 

The  people  of  Rio  can  raise  no  trigo,  or  wheat,  them- 
selves, but  are  very  fond  of  wheaten  bread,  and  are  fasti- 
dious as  to  its  quality.  They  consume  from  eighty  to  one 
hundred  thousand  barrels  of  flour  annually,  which  is  almost 
entirely  sent  from  the  United  States  ; though  till  lately 
it  was  not  much  used.  It  is  now  a substitute  for  farin- 
ha,  or  meal  of  mandioca,  the  produce  of  the  country.  The 
bakers  only  purchase  a few  barrels  from  a cargo  as  a sam- 
ple, before  they  venture  on  a large  quantity  ; and  flour  of 
an  inferior  quality  cannot  be  sold.  In  consequence  of  this, 
the  wheaten  bread  at  Rio  is  very  excellent  ; indeed  I have 
never  in  any  country  met  better,  and  seldom  so  good.  The 
consumption,  however,  is  confined  to  the  better  classes — 
slaves  never  taste  it. 

The  farinaceous  food  of  the  poor  is  feijao  preto,  black  kid- 
ney beans,  and  mandioca  meal.  The  former  is  always 
24* 


282 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


prepared  with  toucinho  fat  ; the  latter  is  a snow-white  pow- 
der, from  the  pounded  mandioca  root,  and  eaten  without 
any  other  preparation  than  drying  and  grinding  ; it  is  put 
into  a calabash,  and  the  prepared  beans  mixed  with  it, 
where  they  look  like  black  heetles  crawling  in  a heap  of 
lime.  Mandioca  is  also  eaten  with  carne  secco,  and  in  that 
state  rations  of  it  were  served  out  to  the  Irish.  The  beef 
was  dry  and  tough,  and  the  flour  hard  and  gritty  ; and  an 
Irishman  afterwards  complained  to  me,  that  “ he  got  nothing 
to  eat  but  saw-dust  and  sole-leather.”  They  also  use  the 
meal  of  indian  corn,  which  they  call  milho  ; but  it  is  more 
generally  given  unground  to  horses,  of  whose  food  it  forms 
a considerable  portion.  It  is  often  boiled  whole  with  sugar 
or  treacle,  and  called  angu  de  milho  : it  is  a good  pudding. 

They  sell  in  the  shops  a nut  called  mindoubi,  ( arachis 
hypogeia ),  which  grows  at  the  root  of  a small  plant.  They 
extract  from  it  a great  quantity  of  oil,  but  it  is  also  used  for 
food,  and  when  parched,  is  very  good.  Negro  women 
are  constantly  shelling  and  parching  it  in  the  streets. 

The  seed  of  a native  shrub,  called  fedagosa,  ( cassia  oc~ 
cidentalis )7  is  frequently  roasted,  and  used  for  coffee,  and 
by  some  more  highly  prized.  It  grows  in  great  profusion 
round  Rio,  adorning  the  sands  with  its  yellow  blossoms. 

Fruit  is  abundant  and  delicious  ; pine-apples  are  in 
immense  quantities.  On  the  sea  shore,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor,  is  a long  sandy  district,  entirely  covered  with 
pine-apple  plants,  and  here  I rode  one  day  nearly  three 
miles  through  a pine-apple  garden.  It  is  indigenous  to 
Brazil,  where  there  are  many  species  growing  on  the  banks  ; 
they  are  called,  and  cried  about  the  streets,  by  the  name 
of  ananas.  I have  often  bought  them  very  fine  for  a vin- 
tern,  about  three  halfpence  a-piece. 

Next  in  excellence  is  the  manga.  This  is  a fruit  larger 
than  an  apple,  always  green  ; when  not  ripe,  it  excludes  a 
clear  juice,  as  strong  and  pungent  as  spirits  of  turpentine, 
of  which  it  never  loses  the  flavor.  When  ripe,  the  pulp  is 
a bright  orange,  but  the  stone  is  covered  with  long  tough 
fibres,  like  coarse  hair,  which  penetrate  the  pulp,  and  ren- 
der it  difficult  to  detach  it.  I have  often  regretted  that 
from  this  cause  I never  could  eat  more  than  half  the  fruit. 

The  yambos,  or  rose-apple,  is  a very  beautiful  fruit,  ex- 
actly resembling  an  apple  in  size,  shape,  and  color.  It  is, 
however,  hollow  inside,  containing  two  nuts,  which  rattle 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


283 


•when  the  fruit  is  shaken.  Its  flesh  is  the  consistence  of  an 
apple,  but  more  insipid. 

The  berries  of  three  kinds  of  myrtles  are  used  as  escu- 
lents. The  first,  called  grumixam,  ( myrtus  lucida ),  is  a dark 
purple  fruit,  the  size  of  a small  plum,  exuding  a purple 
juice.  It  is  highly  wholesome  and  aromatic,  and  the  most 
grateful  of  the  native  fruits  : it  makes  a delightful  conserve. 
The  next,  called  pitanga,  (myrtus  pitanga),  is  about  the 
same  size,  but  of  a bright  red  color,  distinctly  ribbed  on 
the  surface.  It  is  harsh  and  austere,  but  makes  an  excel- 
lent conserve,  and  a very  agreeable  ardent  spirit  is  distilled 
from  it.  The  third  is  called  cambuim,  ( myrtus  lusitanica , 
var ),  and  covers  the  sandy  shore  between  Bota  Fogo  and 
the  Sugar-loaf,  where  the  people  who  sell  it,  come  in  crowds 
to  gather  it  from  the  myrtle  bushes.  The  fruit  is  dark 
brown. 

The  custard-apple,  ( annona  squamosa ),  is  also  much  es- 
teemed as  a native  fruit.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a large 
fir  cone  the  pulp  is  exactly  of  the  consistence  and  taste  of 
custard.  A new  species,  called  cherimolea,  ( annona  tripe- 
tala  ),  has  been  lately  introduced  from  Peru  and  Chili,  which 
produces  an  exquisite  fruit. 

The  mamoon,  or  marrow-apple,  ( carica  papaya ),  is  near- 
ly as  large  as  a pine-apple.  It  grows  in  clusters  on  the 
summit  of  a tree,  with  a stem  like  a cabbage-stalk,  and 
very  large  angular  leaves.  Almost  every  yard  in  Rio  has 
a mamooneiro  planted  in  it,  and  it  is  one  of  the  character- 
istic traits  of  the  country . The  fruit  has  a rich,  foetid  taste, 
of  an  animal  flavor,  bearing  a strong  resemblance  to  mar- 
row, from  which  it  is  justly  named. 

The  acajou,  (anacardium  acajou),  is  a singular  fruit.  It 
is  a large  fleshy  appendage,  the  size  of  a baking-apple,  on 
the  top  of  which  a single  seed  stands,  as  long  as  a Windsor 
bean,  and  of  the  same  shape,  attached  by  the  tip  ; you 
would  naturally  suppose  the  large  fruit  was  intended  also 
by  nature  as  a matrix  of  seed,  but  it  contains  only  a fleshy 
pulp,  very  juicy,  cool,  and  refreshing,  but  rather  austere. 
The  bean,  when  held  to  the  candle,  emits  an  inflammable 
vapor,  which  ignites,  with  an  explosion,  and  causes  a little 
fire-work,  for  the  amusement  of  people  after  dinner. 

The  fruit  of  several  species  of  passion-flower  is  used  un- 
der the  general  name  of  maracuja,  particularly  that  of  the 
beautiful  scarlet  flower,  which  adorns  our  hot-houses,  but  is 
the  commonest  plant  in  the  hedges  of  Brazil,  (passijloraalat  a ). 


284 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


The  maracuja  is  held  in  high  respect  by  the  Brazilians,  for 
the  same  reason  that  we  call  it  passion-flower,  because  its 
parts  of  fructification  have  a near  resemblance  to  many 
emblems  connected  with  the  cross.  It  is  described  by  a 
poet  as  having  a round  form  like  a diadem,  surrounded  with 
points  like  thorns  ; a pillar  in  the  midst,  and  distinct  em- 
blems of  the  holy  wounds  and  the  sacred  cross,  the  nails 
and  the  cruel  lance  ; and  its  white  color,  spotted  with  violet, 
records  the  sacred  blood. # 

I should  mention,  that  the  banana  is  still  more  sacred 
and  universal  here,  than  at  Madeira.  The  people  also  en- 
tertain the  same  superstition  of  the  impropriety  of  cutting 
it  across,  lest  they  should  sever  a sacred  emblem  ; and 
further,  they  believe,  as  Du  Tertre  says,  it  was  the  fruit  of 
Adam  in  paradise,  who  saw  in  it  the  future  sacred  cross.')' 
It  is  the  common  breakfast  of  the  people,  who  do  not  cut, 
but  dip  the  fruit  in  farinha  meal,  and  eat  it  as  we  do  a radish 
and  salt. 

The  people  of  Rio  are  more  intemperate  in  eating  than  in 
drinking.  Port  wine  is  not  much  used,  because  it  is  too 
strong  and  heating  for  the  climate  ; that  which  they  hold  in 
highest  esteem — at  least  use  in  the  greatest  quantities,  is 
Catalonian,  of  which  there  is  a considerable  importation 
every  year.  The  common  people,  and  particularly  the 
negroes,  use  caxas,  or  cachaca,  an  inferior  kind  of  rum, 
distilled  from  some  result  of  sugar-cane.  This  is  so  cheap 
and  accessible,  that  foreigners,  particularly  sailors,  get 
greatly  addicted  to  it.  Much  of  the  misconduct  and  misfor- 
tunes of  the  Germans  and  Irish  arose  from  it,  particularly 
the  latter,  who,  when  they  got  rations  of  bad  food,  which 
they  could  not  eat,  exchanged  it  for  caxas,  which  readily 
intoxicated  them.  It  is  not,  however,  an  unwholesome  or 
unpalatable  liquor,  and  in  the  winter  and  rainy  season,  is 
often  found  a salutary  antidote  against  the  effects  of  cold 
and  wet.  A distiller  has  lately  tried  to  improve  it,  and  by 
a further  process  converted  it  into  good  rum. 

* “ He  na  forma  redonda,  qnal  diadema 
He  pontas,  corao  espiuhos,  rodeada ; 

A columna  no  meio,  e um  olaro  emblema 
Das  cliagas  santas,  e da  cruz  sagrada  : 

Vem-se  os  tres  cravos,  e na  parte  extrema 
Com  arte  a cruel  langa  figurada  : 

A cor  he  branca ; mas  d’hum  roxo  exangue 
Salpicada,  recorda  o pio  sangue.” — Caramuru.  cvii.  39. 
t On  this  Father  Labat  remarks — “ Adam  pourroit  avoir  meillenre 
■vue  que  nous,  ou  la  croix  de  les  Bananes  ctoit  mieux  formee.” — 
Voyage , tom.  iii.  p.  307. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


285 


CHAP.  XXIV. 

Birth-Day  of  Dom  Pedro  4’ Alcantara,  grand  Gala  at  the  Palace. — Attend  at  the 
Levee. — Palace  prepared  and  painted — imperial  Arms  of  Brazil. — Supporters  — 
Liveries. — Guard  of  Honor. — Mode  of  Introduction  to  the  Emperor. — His  Son,  a 
fine  interesting  Boy. — Inconvenience  of  a Clergyman’s  Gown. — Melancholy  Death 
of  our  young  Friend.— English  Cemetery  at  the  Gamboa. — Emperor  approves  and 
purposes  to  establish  similar  ones. — Monument  and  Epitaph. 


December  the  2d,  was  the  birth-day  of  Dom  Pedro  d’Al- 
cantara,  the  imperial  prince,  and  heir  apparent  to  the  crown. 
It  was  one  of  the  many  grand  gala  days  when  there  is  a 
beijamao,  or  kiss-hand,  for  natives,  and  a presentation  for 
foreigners  ; and  we  prepared  to  pay  our  respects,  when  I 
was  to  have  the  honor  to  be  presented  to  His  Imperial  Ma- 
jesty, and  be  a witness  of  the  splendor  of  his  court.  About 
twelve  o’clock  we  proceeded  to  the  palace,  which,  on 
this,  and  similar  occasions,  was  surrounded  with  a throng  of 
carriages,  and  a crowd  of  people  ; for,  notwithstanding  the 
frequent  recurrence  of  these  galas,  the  inhabitants  of  Rio 
have  not  yet  lost  their  fondness  for  show  and  display,  though  I 
am  told  it  is  fast  wearing  away.  The  palace  is  approached 
by  a large  portico,  and  a long  hall,  which  leads  to  the  stair- 
case. These  were  filled  with  soldiers  and  officers  of  the 
court,  in  gay  uniform,  and  full-dress,  accompanied 'by  a 
band,  all  playing  and  singing,  or  rather  shouting,  the  Empe- 
ror’s national  hymn. 

We  passed  on  through  a lane  of  guards,  up  the  stair-case, 
to  the  suite  of  apartments  above.  This  consisted  of  several 
rooms,  leading  into  each  other,  so  as  to  extend  the  whole 
length  of  one  side  of  the  palace-square.  They  had  been 
but  just  finished,  were  opened  on  this  day  for  the  first  time, 
and  were  as  gay  as  paint  could  make  them.  The  windows, 
however,  had  never  been  cleaned,  I believe,  since  the 
palace  was  erected,  and  the  dim  and  dingy  glass,  in  some 
places  cracked  and  broken,  was  not  in  keeping  with  the 
gaiety  and  brightness  of  the  rest.  The  walls  were  hung 
with  pictures  representing  eminent  men,  and  remarkable 
facts  in  the  history  of  Portugal  ; but  that  which  most  attract- 
ed my  notice  was  a fine  portrait  of  Catharine  of  Lisbon, 
consort  of  Charles  II.  of  England,  painted  by  Sir  Peter 
Lely,  distinguished  by  all  the  languishing  softness  of  that 
artist.  It  accompanied  the  court  in  their  emigration. 


286 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


In  every  conspicuous  place,  the  arms  of  Imperial  Brazil 
were  emblazoned.  These  arms  have  been  twice  changed 
in  the  space  of  seven  years  ; when  Brazil  was  united  as  a 
kingdom  with  Portugal,  and  when  it  was  separated  from  it. 
On  the  first  occasion,  Dom  John  placed  the  shield,  contain- 
ing the  arms  of  Portugal,  on  an  armillary  sphere.  The 
sphere  was  first  adopted  as  a device,  in  the  reign  of  Manoel, 
in  1 499.  Albuquerque,  on  the  capture  of  Goa,  ordered  coin 
to  be  struck  in  different  metals,  having  on  one  side  the 
sphere,  and  on  the  other  the  word  mea , which  read  mea 
esphera , implying,  it  should  appear,  that  the  Portuguese 
now  claimed  the  eastern  hemisphere  as  their  allotment. 

In  1815,  John  VI.  assumed  the  sphere  as  the  peculiar 
device  of  Brazil,  and  placed  on  it  the  shield,  containing  the 
quinas,  or  five  emblems  of  Portugal,  surrounded  with  the 
orla  of  castles  of  the  Algarves.  I mention  the  above  origin 
of  the  sphere,  because  I had  imagined  it  was  peculiar  to 
Brazil,  and  for  the  first  time  adopted  by  John  VI.  till  I was 
better  informed. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  1822,  the  people  of  Bio  conferred 
on  Dom  Pedro  the  title  of  u Perpetual  Defender  of  Brazil 
and  on  the  18th  of  September  following,  a decree  was  is- 
sued, conformable  to  the  state  of  things,  and  erasing  from 
the  arms  the  shield  of  Portugal  imposed  upon  them.  It 
stated  that  as  Brazil  had  now  occupied  that  place  among 
the  grand  families  of  the  nations  of  the  earth,  which  of  right 
appertained  to  it,  it  was  proper  that  its  armorial  bearings 
should  correspond  to  distinguish  it,  not  only  from  those 
of  Portugal  and  the  Algarves,  but  to  characterize  a rich 
and  vast  continent.  Wishing,  however,  to  preserve  the 
arms  conferred  on  Brazil  by  his  august  father,  and  to  com- 
memorate the  name  imposed  by  the  first  discoverer,  and 
also  to  include  the  states  comprehended  within  its  vast  riv- 
ers, which  are  its  natural  boundaries,  the  following  arms 
were  adopted. 

An  armillary  sphere  of  gold  on  a cross  of  the  order  of 
Christ,  surrounded  by  a circle  of  nineteen  stars  of  silver, 
indicating  the  number  of  provinces  into  which  Brazil  is  di- 
vided. The  imperial  crown  surmounting  the  shield,  and  the 
sides  supported  by  two  branches,  one  of  coffee  and  the  oth- 
er of  tobacco,  represented  in  their  proper  colors,  as  emblems 
of  the  commercial  riches  of  the  country.  Coffee  and  tobac- 
co, you  will  say,  are  not  very  dignified  supporters  to  na- 
tional armorial  bearings,  and  I doubt  if  they  are  to  be  found 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


287 


in  the  herald’s  office;  but  you  will  agree  with  me,  that  these 
great  natural  productions  of  the  soil,  as  emblematic  devices 
of  the  wealth  and  prosperity  of  the  country,  are  to  the  full 
as  rational  and  intelligible  as  griffins  and  unicorns.  The 
Banda  Oriental  was  one  of  the  nineteen  provinces  included 
between  the  great  rivers  alluded  to  in  the  decree  ; it  is  now 
abandoned,  but  its  representative  star  is  still  visible  in  the 
Brazilian  arms,  and  is  likely  to  remain  there  as  long  as 
France  in  the  arms  of  England. 

At  the  same  time  that  the  emperor  decreed  the  imperial 
arms,  he  regulated  the  livery  of  his  servants.  The  edital 
stated  that  the  former  was  too  expensive,  and  he  adopted 
one  more  conformable  to  the  climate  of  Brazil.  The  color 
fixed  on  was  green  ; and  by  a subsequent  decree,  every 
other  person  was  prohibited  from  using  it.  It  was  from  that 
time  to  be  held  sacred  to  the  royal  family,  as  it  is  in  Turkey 
to  the  family  of  Mahomet,  and  exclusively  confined  to  the 
imperial  domestics,  who  were  all  clad  in  rich  green  suits  for 
this  occasion. 

All  the  foreign  diplomatic  corps  were  assembled  to  pay 
their  respects,  and  with  the  naval  officers  of  the  squadron 
in  the  bay  in  full  uniform,  composed  a large  and  respectable 
assemblage  at  this  transatlantic  court.  There  were  two 
English  ministers,  Lords  Strangford  and  Ponsonby  ; Baron 
Mareschal,  the  Austrian  ; Monsieur  Pontois,  the  French; 
Baron  Bedel,  the  Netherlands  ; Count  Lowenstjerne,  the 
Danish  ; Mr.  Tudor,  the  United  States,  8lc.  with  their  re- 
spective suites,  besides  many  more  distinguished  officers  an$' 
strangers. 

Presently  the  sound  of  trumpets  and  the  trampling  of 
horses  in  the  square  below  announced  the  arrival  of  the  em- 
peror from  his  palace  of  S.  Christovao,  and  on  looking  out 
of  the  window,  we  saw  him  sweeping  into  the  square  in  a 
carriage  with  six  horses,  accompanied  by  his  guard  of  honor. 
This  guard  was  established  by  a decree  of  the  1st  of  De- 
cember, 1822.  On  the  preceding  January,  when  the  Por- 
tuguese soldiers  had  threatened  the  person  of  the  emperor, 
the  inhabitants  of  St.  Paul’s  formed  a voluntary  guard  to 
protect  him.  To  keep  alive  the  memory  of  the  spontaneous 
loyalty  of  the  people,  it  was  determined  by  the  emperor  to 
form  a permanent  body  to  be  ready  always  to  be  about  his 
person  when  required,  and  that  it  should  be  called  a guard 
of  honor,  consisting  of  three  squadrons  of  cavalry,  one  for 
each  of  the  provinces  of  Rio,  St.  Paul’s,  and  the  Minas 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


288 

Geraes,  each  consisting  of  two  companies  of  sixty  privates, 
besides  officers,  comprising  the  most  respectable  men  of 
their  provinces.  They  assemble  four  times  in  the  year,  are 
enrolled  four  days,  and  are  ready  to  attend,  when  the  exi- 
gency of  the  state  requires,  only  on  the  persons  of  the  em- 
peror and  imperial  family,  particularly  on  the  two  great  an- 
niversaries of  the  Acclamation  and  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence. Any  absenting  themselves,  without  reasonable 
excuse,  are  expelled  and  never  again  admitted.  Their  uni- 
forms are  white,  with  gilt  helmets,  and  they  make  a fine 
display.  It  appears,  however,  that  their  warm  attachment 
has  now  quite  cooled,  and  many  would  heartily  wish  to  be 
exempt  from  a duty  which  they  originally  imposed  on  them- 
selves. 

After  a short  time  a chamberlain  announced  to  us,  that 
the  emperor  was  arrived,  and  we  proceeded  to  pay  our  re- 
spects. We  passed  through  an  ante-chamber,  where  we 
now  for  the  first  time  saw  assembled  the  Brazilian  nobility, 
officers,  public  functionaries,  and  distinguished  ecclesiastics, 
in  all  the  respective  costumes  of  their  orders  5 and  as  their 
dress  was  very  rich,  they  formed  not  only  a crowded  but 
brilliant  assembly.  Having  passed  through  a lane  of  these, 
we  entered  the  presence-chamber.  This  was  a very  large 
spacious  apartment.  At  the  further  end  was  the  throne, 
raised  on  several  steps,  under  a canopy,  on  which  stood  the 
emperor  in  full  uniform,  with  his  son,  a fine  little  fellow  of 
three  years  old,  standing  beside  him.  With  the  exception 
of  a few  officers  in  distant  parts,  this  apartment  was  quite 
vacant  ; and  the  etiquette  is  for  each  foreign  minister  to 
walk  up  singly,  with  his  suite  on  one  side,  and  when  he  has 
paid  his  respects  to  the  throne,  walk  down  at  the  other,  and 
out  at  the  door.  The  emperor  received  us  very  graciously, 
and  looked,  on  his  elevation,  a fine  and  portly  man.  His 
boy  was  not  dressed  in  embroidery,  but  in  a plain  jacket 
and  trousers,  such  as  he  would  play  marbles  in,  and  looked 
so  simple  and  pretty  that  he  interested  everybody.  When 
I was  presented,  he  put  his  hands  into  his  breeches  pockets, 
and  looked  very  knowing  at  my  dress,  which  was  not  ex- 
actly that  of  the  clergy  he  was  accustomed  to. 

It  is  the  etiquette  to  retreat  backwards,  always  with  your 
face  to  the  throne,  and  as  I had  a long  apartment  to  traverse 
in  this  way,  I found  it  very  inconvenient  with  my  gown. 
In  the  year  1741,  Dr.  Burke,  the  titular  Bishop  of  Ossory, 
was  sent  on  a mission  from  Rome  to  the  court  of  Portugal, 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


289 


and  on  retiring  backwards  from  the  throne,  he  trod  on  the 
tail  of  his  gown,  and  fell  flat  on  his  back.  From  that  time 
an  alvara  was  issued,  that  all  clergymen  in  their  robes 
should  be  exempt  from  this  inconvenient  ceremony.  If  the 
alvara  had  been  in  force  in  Brazil,  I should  have  been  glad 
to  avail  myself  of  it,  for  before  I reached  the  end  of  the  long 
room,  I more  than  once  was  near  sharing  the  fate  of  the 
titular  Bishop  of  Ossory. 

We  had  hoped  that  the  situation  of  our  house,  ventilated 
by  the  wholesome  breezes,  and  open  to  the  lovely  prospect 
of  the  bay,  with  the  warm  but  temperate  atmosphere  of  a 
healthy  country,  would  now  restore  our  young  friend  ; and 
for  a time  he  seemed  to  improve,  but  he  soon  became  alarm- 
ingly ill,  and  rapidly  declined  till  the  25th  of  November, 
when  he  expired  ; and  the  only  duty  left  us  was  to  perform 
the  last  rites  at  his  grave.  The  burying  ground  attached 
to  the  English  chapel  lies  at  the  north  extremity  of  the  town, 
at  the  bottom  of  a small  but  beautiful  bay,  called  the  Gam- 
boa. It  consists  of  three  or  four  acres  of  land,  surrounded 
by  a wall,  with  a few  trees  still  standing  within  the  area  ; and 
it  is  proposed  to  plant  a great  number.  The  situation  is  ex- 
tremely beautiful,  on  an  inclined  plane,  sloping  towards  the 
sea,  and  commanding  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  bay  and 
islands.  In  the  centre  stands  a small  chapel,  used  only  on 
the  occasion  of  funerals,  in  which  is  read  a part  of  the  buri- 
al service. 

The  emperor,  whose  palace  of  S.  Christovao  is  not  very 
distant,  has  frequently  visited  this  spot,  and  was  much  struck 
with  the  appearance  of  the  cemetery.  The  sober  solemnity 
of  the  English  service  attracted  his  notice  ; but  above  all, 
the  removal  of  bodies  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  induced 
him  to  express  a strong  approbation  of  our  mode  of  inter- 
ment ; and  it  is  said  he  proposes  to  establish  similar  ceme- 
teries near  Rio,  on  the  extensive  scale  of  Pere  la  Chaise, 
and  gradually  reconcile  the  Brazilians  to  burials  in  the  open 
country. 

Here  it  was  I performed  the  last  office  for  our  young 
friend,  who  crossed  the  Atlantic  in  search  of  that  health  he 
could  not  find  ; and  I felt  as  if  I never  performed  a more 
sad  or  solemn  duty.  The  evils  and  infirmities  incident  to 
mature  age,  are  the  natural  and  expected  consequences  of 
the  frailty  of  our  perishable  nature.  But  when  God  is  pleas- 
ed to  afflict  the  young,  we  contemplate  the  prime  of  life 
prematurely  embittered,  and  the  season  of  life  blighted. 


290 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 


when  we  hoped  to  see  it  green  and  flourishing.  As  yet 
there  are  but  few  grave-stones  erected  in  this  ground,  to 
mark  the  place  of  the  departed  ; but  a monument  has  been 
sent  from  England  to  designate  the  spot  where  his  remains 
are  deposited — and  the  first  of  the  kind  that  has  been  erect- 
ed. It  is  an  urn  supported  on  a pedestal  of  black  marble, 
with  the  following  inscription  from  the  pen  of  his  father. 

H.  S.  E. 

QUICQUID  MORTALE  HABUIT 
GEORGIUS  JOSEPHUS  STANHOPE 
PHILIPPI  HENRI  Cl  COM1TIS  STANHOPE 
FILIUS  SECUNDO  GENITUS 
VIRTUTIBUS  ET  PIETATE  INSIGNIS 
PATRIAE  AMICIS  ET  PROPINQUIS 
DESIDERATISSIM  US 

NATUS  DIE  XVII.  MARTII  A.D.  MDCCCVI. 

OBIIT  HAC  URBE 

DIE  XXV.  NOVEMBR : MDCCCXXVIIL 
IiOCCE  MONUMENTUM 
MOERENS  PONERE  CURAVIT 
PATER  QUEM  EXIMIE  DELEXIT 


END  OF  VOL.  I. 


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